1958-11-10 — Page 4

Page

4

THE CHINA MAIL, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 10, 1958.

The travels of

Sefton Delmer

ADDIS ABABA

γου

Sunday

Well, I am advertising itë whand really firing a steak and kidney pud-

LEG

areas

(Continued)

FLEET STREET'S most-travelled reporter, Softon Delmer, is now probing the little-known but vital After cabling of the Middle East. his last despatch from the Sudan he has moved to the newest and strangest tourist spot in the world...

1

is "There

handicraft school," she

the saya, "and station, and Emperer Menelik's and the opera house. statue, And, of course, the market."

The market is in an outer, unfashionable part of town.

65

ETHIOPIA

NOTE FOR

PHILATELISTS

Magnified to twice its size this postage stamp bears more English words than Amharic. Note the

spelling of the capital is Addis Abeba- the usual English form is Addis Ababa.

lipa. They are unlike any other race in Afrien—or Europe,

Young applaud But

Surprise! Look Who's

Here! Miss Pankhurst!

routo

of merchants carrying whimpering and wailing. gold, frankincense, and myrrh "What's wrong with her?" "I from Southern Arabia to Egypt asked.

passed through here,

The Italian-built and Italion- "Oh, she's been told sho xun hotel 19 excellent. but must go home today und MD cmpty.

doesn't want 10 leave ber

The girls here do not wear nice clean bod and nico clean nets over their hair on they do hospital, Count Bassowitz, the In Addia. Instead, they the their hospital's German 'BITgOOD, hair back from the foreljend in tells mo.

Berics

finely wound parallel pigtalis.

П

SATURDAY: st

Walking up to the old church I meet a Moslem who At six o'clock greets me politely, "He's trom

evening Yemen," my Ethioplan

guido six double chimes rang out from tells me "There are lots of the wonderful old slate gong, of Yemenis here as in the whole Gondar church. For two minutes of Ethiopia. They are farmers all movement ceared. Everyone and merchants," stood still facing in the dicee- tion the Emperor's paince in Addin

Homage. deserved bomuge, this ceremony is performed all over Ethiopia at six every oven-

Well, the scarcity of hotela--- Homage to a great ruler for. who is personally responsible for there aren't more than eight all the remarkable progress this reasonably good ones in the whole country-and the absence Gondar, country is making.

of those while hunters who act the ancient copital in the north. It was his iden, for instance,

cafuri gudes in ก well- We come down at every little to establish Ethiopia's medical s town, bumping harshly on to training centre In the Italian- organised African tourist country

on

Ethioplans nugh and

Yes, I really believe there

when Mboya calls must be something in this tole them to form trades unions in

still silence of their being descended from Euopta

falls the Queen of Sheba. That could across the hall. No one stirs. almost be the Queen of Sheba herself, that girl over There tinkling a lie silver bell at me to attract my attention.

Back in Addis 'after another bumpy bucket seat flight, What do I think now of Ethiopia as a

? tourist land?

YOU must have seen those alluring: ad- vertisements. "Come to Ethiopia and enjoy a Cool unique vacation. always. Modern hotels. Luxurious air services. The adventurous won- derland of the Queen of

shall carry the larger load to tu 10-year-olds, from Ochotsk to Sheba awaits you."

Alten from Ethiopia of a beasti) Unk

stimulant called And who is this genial, blur- allenge a habit-forming 21+1

{UTOMOTROCA time, hot qat

yuch. It is eyed English genetlewoman with grown in Ethioplu. 4f1

the slivery hair hobnobbing with The anport of gut to Aden was the confides over vodka and batmed by the Allen Legislay zakus Way. It's that grund old Council as being harmful to the startle Sylvia Punkhurst. It has everything: foodstalls bealth of the population

Here i Andie Ababa, with at which you can get a drink of energy undimained, she is carry strongest honey Deer, shorp

grass-covered airßelds. campaign to liberate spearheads for your spear--it

As the built hospital here in Gondar, From thetr

buy European you carry one-the latest cheop

passengers get out, families and Pye

been just

visiting porcelain from Japan, or shoes paintings

retainers dush forward to greet Germans and Americans and her.

them, embracing, bowing,

charge and Scandinavians are in She runs a weekly, she tells from Czechoslovakia,

for There Ethiopia

white muslin

In the evening 1 listen to 27- often going on their knees the

10 tenching young Ethiopians to be, and don't called

mind roughing, it n Oxford-trained men's togas, and beautiful pale year-old

Toni kisahoreshly arrived lord's doctors and murses. An urgent bit,

enjoy discovering new Observer,

leader Mboy",

of blue and pole pink gossamer

Kenya's 16 Yes, there is plenty of necessity this for a country people-and if you live the "Welt," turbans which the gris put over African trades unions, tell Addis feudalism left here.

which has only 200 doctors now, Ababa's young Intelligentsia

What

delight- what And

extraordinarily with irony how he will force the FRIDAY: to apply

ful their own

this place lovely girls they are with their British

To principles of demormey to end Gondar is, with its 80-year-old big, wide-apart eyes, high sheek-

buttlemented castles. The trade passed bones, straight noses, and full the present white supremacy.

sting at 112 in the shule first in

Khartourn and then in Aden- was but tat about the rouhews and the luxAZE).

That

from the wat trenchath blessed legislators halt then bad

I wonded anyhow to und 25 for you how this hitherto over- looked bul now adimatoddly materi **wonderlan of the turen if Sheba," is expuse, 21,006,000 people

are sumping at last, under growing

LATEST pressures from Cato and Moscow

Gasping

So here am now in Ackles

Ataua, busking and gasping I

Qut is a paving ceramidiay not only as freight.

LATER We are in the air $ying up valleys and hills that get

Kre looking from minute to mibute, We have landed.

Weltr to Addis Ababu," Men in Antibharic and Krischen fanguage, of the country.

two

oficlai 14

in English too that the smurt

om basking in the world's na young Ethropian public health perfeet climate But too hot and offeve

tl mod:1 1 wa basking too lun

in the wat feeling of pleasury sternly

rutinising my vaccina- ! certificate atnounces !

W cannot accept

ot long the mudst of one of this I has not got an offlelak the genes, Trindliesi, most stamp on its

talented and proudest peoples 1 have met anywhere

Gosping im In cause 1 has Bot yet managed to become acclamed to the thin high.

title alr

8.0001

We re

ויד

pont al that this is how 10%|MYŠPOCed officials of newly- independent Morocco made t

in Tangler, that out

usably less watchful offers The he had never challenged

other

young Ethiopian shakes

In Addis Ababa. and othe the blemish places have been vitting any not much lower

Im Kasping too in horror at the Inaritities being com-

The

DUR

agapressors.

1s

WEDNESDAY: asked the their hair instead of hats.

wautiful Ethiopian maiden e! the reception desk, "what would you vise me as a tourist En and see in Addis Ababu?"

No one stirs

請

sel of delightful

on parchment from

THURSDAY: I am flying up

10

Sad cure

It.

one of the warda no I wha # buxom beauty

like Kenya means that Ethiopia for the present is hardly" a Blackpool

But if you

money for the fare-why, then, by all means make the Queen of Sheba your next holiday goal.

But don't forget she is not offering you a holiday camp.

CHAMPAGNE, CAVIARE-BUT THE ONLY FLOWER WAS A CHRYSANTHEMUM.

My on-the-town

TOW does a girl go gay

HOW

in Moscow on her birth-

but seriously over at this day? I have just celebrated

Meaney

Then he roups with

Laughtes and waves me on

mitted here by the British and 4 going to like these people

mine and learned it is possible to have a jolly good time!

An hour after unpacking my hotel ar up-to-date affair Addis Ababa's I am le the notorious

I

to smile the

Americans

Here now

Traveller

IS 01

log as Y

uf Alrights

at "tourist Ofer

advertised

world's

paradise

Soviet

My Fellow Traveller (I hope Information that is not the wrong word!)

wanted to buy

Well may be, as reported. te headquarters of an Africa-me

network of Vom sweltering wide

TUESDAY:

this Is #

subversive

The

& corsage, numerous

1

birthday in

Moscow...

FROM EILEEN ASCROFT, MOSCOW, MONDAY

the holiest agenta But for the moment small flower sun yet on the nireld of French perhaps

plece of shops sold only Somaliland's Djibou Five briliantly disarming cover-

paper poppies, irises and Japones they are puiting on hours ago Delmer, a merghunt from Oxaka, and other which would be the cuvy Travellers Rom Aden for Addis Britain's most guileless Britisis Ababa were put down here by Council operative.

which, surprisingly.

of

the British-run Aden Airways, All the walls of the big hail,

There is a sight on between over Aden Airways and the Ameri- portra Con run Ethfopian Airlines

Uncle

Joe

So pressades, as covered with am

their schedules and we have iu Art." sil her roasting.

Paper

monetary value

of

·

to

and

Cach

డి..

upon, each bearing a different (135s, each) and a charming gilt out of doors to escape the over

pen or pencil for its English The young Russians are zçalową "vinaigrette" scent bottle de- crowded living conditions,

equivalent.

Each dancers

course of my asters at about two roubles. By saving на A couple of corated with

gilttering Women on the whole were Back to the hotel to dress birthday dinner was separated

well-dressed (Is. 6d. approx.) a bunch. "breakfasts" (18 roubles) and flower. Price 37 roubles (278. Dd.)

though without for the evening celebrations with langos, waltzes and fox- three OF four "elas" (four Favourite Russian gíte even a hint of what we regard in our plush, flowers on a birthday

rather Victorian trots

partner are not good enough. But mear roubles a time) and adding the girt friends are boxes of choco- as current fashion. Hem-lengths suites, where the bath water in announced bis full credentials

result to two dinners (30 roubles tutes

bottles of perfume

Jun, and voluminous top coats. never really hot, no plug in the in halting English as we danced. woman selling fresh piece) we managed to stoge Shops are abundantly stocked Least fashion-conscious were basin, but clean towels and soap

with each,

and even the men their tops and toes. Thick-soled appear cach day. white chrysanthemums at four quite a beano for the birthday roubles (34) each. I have been lunch

buy perfume for themselves. shoes, many of ersatz leather. I wanted to go dancing, but wearing on all day

And by a beano, tovarich, I "Chypre" is their favourite, and But most women wore gloves this was full. Too late to mican vodka, aperitifs, borsch much in evidence among opera und hals or head scarves,

get tickets for one of the Houses to tourists in Rusg.2 soup, plus chicken cullets a la and ballet audiences.

of Culture where Sunday night are provided in exchange for Kiev, grapes and Turkish coffee.

dances are held.

Test Square we tracked down a pramuni

the two of them will not match exhibition of Søvlet Children's Solemn Ethiopians trot around

Meals colours and The British and Americans admiring water are dghting over which of Bain erayu sketches by six-year-olda

Always in time with

VULCAIN

crick

Wrist

e

"Alarm

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world's best watch for busy people... tells and folls the time.

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Topped oil with two bottles of Georgian wine No. 4. which is the Communist equivalent of the aristocratic Nuits St Georges

All served by a white-coated waiter antid a profusion of white

pery and cut glass,

Russin's London Ambassador, Jacob Molik recommended the

excellent Georgian wine (ly

crdered by numbers here, not names) before we set off.

Next we went out to buy my present Sunday is the great shopping day in Moscow. State stores are packed with men and Women In equal numbers. Kuesion husbands, It scerns, enjoy shopping, whether it is for "Naight's supper or helping to choose a new hat.

Many had come along just for window shopping.

Finally I settled for a bottle of "Red Moscow" scent in bright red and gold case, trimmed with a red silk tassle.

In Bussin, by the way, the word for "red" is the same as the word for "beautiful."

It cost us 53 roubles (39s Dd.). folds about 12 oz. and is fairly heady stuff!

Very popular in this store is a huge perfume machine that positively douses you when you

10 kopecks.

put I was interested to see the well-stocked television set, nylon stocking and cosmetic counters. Most beauty aids were available, but so far no home perms, And still no drip-dry shirts for the nienfolk.

After my birthday shopping

joined the leisure- spree we

Moscow's main Gorky Street.

In GUM, the largest Soviet day crowds in store, which is a huge arcade thoroughfare with a central fountain

and Even a rainy day brings prople

small shops opening off it, I saw

a football serum lighting for o new consignment of masculino nylon cocks,

Toys

store

A speels1 children's near by was gay with paper for the November decorations celebrations Its windows were decorated, too, and huge crowds of children had collected to admire the working models of toys like the Teddy Bears band' end an almost life-size elephánt waving his trunk.

Most popular draw was a hugal revolving world and whirling |

putniks.

Shopping in Moscow le donn gallop. No leiately pick-

ing and choosing. Only trouble when all the horsen try

14

to take the fences at the same time,

At one entrance to a store, a crowd of 100 were trying to force their way in. At analter the same number were trying to got out.

Harnamed assistents, who add up the billy on an abacus, woru

iMcult to attract.

Having sampled the hat department and rejected a plain wool beret with a glli ornament nt 70 roubles (67.) I begin to klerstand why Russian athlete Nina took much a foney to our London' chain store hist

Ifandbags by our standardo Four of real were shoddy. lenther, arid all expensive.

I dithered between Ingilo nylon tighilles at 180 roubles

+

COMRADE ONLY ONE

DRINK A

CURTOBE

Colour

I was surprised see so much colour--red and green by for the favourites.

Children were the best-

dressest, in Western style

woollen siren sulta or warm fur couta Chlef attraction for them were the gigantic bunches of coloured balloons on sale for one rouble each (0d.).

Al every corner on fee-cream stand doing a brisk trade, in spite of a chilly and rainy day. Very good, too, at two roubles a.cornet (1s. Od.).

The sirceta were spotless, chiefly because it is on offence to drop as 'much as a cigarette end. Elderly women, in black boots and white aprons, sweep them clean with brooms made of twigs.

No begging or street touting, though the odd small boy docs try to exchange a Russian

Second choice was the Moscow that recently circus the one came to London-but every ticket was sold.

Sunday night is the Big night out for Ċiga and Ivan, We were lucky to secure table for a supper dance at the Metropole, where tourists and young Rus- sions mix.

Dior

Complete with black dress with my white chrysanthe- mum; we started off with Com- munist champagne-and Jolly The Russians drank good, tool last year 27 million bottles of it, so "bubbly" is no capitalletic monopoly!

was

My celebration dinner red calare, cold sturgeon with horseradish sauce and more ico cream. And a few more after- noon, ten coupons had to be thrown into the pool!

DRINKSKI

PINTSKI

MILKSKA

[DAYSKE

1 tangoed with a young fun produces, walized with the firs viola and foxtrotted with the third violin of the Moscow Orchestra.

The finale wan a rock 'n' roll with a schoolboy, who colemnly announced that "Russian boys Hike English girls very much,

Glamour

2.

The band was good, lighting dimmed for waltzes, and a coloured formailon played in the centre of the dance floor.

Men sported a few gay ties, but the girls really went to town on dress. I saw one strapless glamour affair in black satin and area Brigitte Bardot hair-do. And this was Moscow 1950.

record I

Mere make-up was apparent than in the daytime and nearl every girl word corrings.

A good gay evening one of the best birthdays have spent. Moscow..haa.. tia. sombre side, but FUN exits for those today in search of it.

London Express Servica),

“YES, BUT HE DIDN'T SAY WHAT SIZE GLASS.”

London Skersin, Maraton