1958-06-12 — Page 4

'1

Britain In The

Early Summer-Not So Pretty

THE sun shone and the

THE

girls looked their pret- ijest. Deck chairs were out In the parks. Suburbia had its being to a buzz of lawn- mowers, The Derby was the dressiest for years, with: the fashion-conscious taking the cue from the black and white Derby Day set of "My Fair Lady". Up at Edghas

New Zealand cricketers were ruffling the

Lon

the

THE CHINA MAIL,

THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 1968.

HOW WILD IS THE WILD WEST?

You

Dodge City, Kansas, THE Wild West has been Tamed but not eum- pletely. I arrived here in "the Cowboy Capital of the World" -famous to tens of millions of television viewers thirsty M.C.C. calm with the after the long journey from ciency of their bowling. The New York. gold and dollar were the highest since 1951. Britain in the sun of early Linmer. A soothing picture.

The revere of the picture Thousands was not to preity.

reserves

of tens of tour beginning to rot

in London docks. Well over 100

"Please send up a Scotch or Bourbon and sodi," I told the hotel desk-clerk. The clerk said: "No liquor," and when ! told him I would settle for beer he

DON IDDON

in a

now sories, hits the trail

to the Cowboy Capital of the

World... and finds a legend in

Dodge City that isn't quite true

got Wyatt Earp

all

wrong!

merchant ships lying, felesly said: "N But I can't see that it's made much difference

n1 eir wrings while nearly

20,800 striking dockers refused

to handle their cargoes.

Bright Spot

Bright spot in this otherwise; guy sccbe was

The rese

er either.”

So this,

thought,

Wak the

#

Alsu Globe photographer, wearing a Western tie and ap- parently delighted to meet an Englishman,

wickedest city in the West, lunch centers, hardware stores, MGs, Juguars, Aston Martins, pictures. They were taken by

Bour-mill agencies, and, yes, two

to the country club." mueration, and responsibly the town of splendid sin, sewing machine offes, and Austin-Healey's--let's drive out

wonen. trude wild by offer

yipping a three little beer bars. I

Plainly.

buckereum.

gan fighters, dropped into D's Tavern and what had happened it could see that, begon a cvitami

cold-eyed gamblers, fancy asked

and gaudy ple- Frint Street, pon, estrones-includtag 5.Kullers by strike action, saloons,

teing show

1000

the

Their efforts, however, were suren. beni ulatrucied if not al- together frustrated by

Jis the faste

the

Didn't

they

Once

We drove along the Inmacu- lute strecis

town of the le

14.000) pust the (population three Ave-and-len-cent stores, The bartender said: "Well, the elegant shops with the latest fur one thing it banned down, models from New York, past a Say and, for another, the town be

neat store with the sign "Guns sold and exchanged" (This was รายเ machinations of racial strike about Dodge Cay: "Call game respectable and religious.

more like it) to the fringes of the Cowboy Capital, past A sers, the the men who that day lost whose low The merchants sealsed

und of power

for Dodge's gerd!

reputation at anking new auditorium, two

very impressive mischief and the town was cleaned up."

new schools, shuggle to savour it to the full descending sun saw no man ughts and othels weren't

and along rows of splendid new Cleaned up is right. Where

of them single Pie wagons ined to stand in Big horses, most

all with storcyed and street outside the red-light houses and the women beckoned manicured lawas. the men Inside there are smart Buleks, Oldsmobiles, Fords. Chevrolets ami, Dodges.

1 L were tributors,

activities of these men killed or other potlighted by tuod dis-done?"

the about unximus

fate of fund cargoes rotting in the ducks, when they called at

the Ministry

Di

Th

for..

Agriculture.

Li spokesanan painted cd and ruthless agtaliam

sell-appointed and

Parry,"

|-

On the trail

policeman.

of

gourse,

On the ball

green

On the air

that I have

I will not say wowed the Wel, but certainly It has wowed me. Due to the

Jest Denious enterprise was on the front page within two hours of seeing the, town. The headline read: Briton degrees in the summer and well here for dala for Cowboy Capi- below zero in the winter, tal articles."

EL

And within four hours I was

Jocni in the

radio slation, also owned by Jess making hult-bour broadcast on Anglo- American relations of all things, I said: "This rembids me of and telling the Kansans that

11.119 without the

Later I was told 1 could

It took me several hours to authored, travelling the coun-get a beer on Front Street, us with the express purpose of su 1 strolled over the street

the Western world's most spreading the stoppage to other facing the railway track na horse in Dodge City, and

I didn't sing song palm frees." Jess told me: "Dodge City has become one of where, according to legend, it belonged to a mounted every

the world. Including famous ellies. there had been more shoot in the bar, but went to the local thak Unofficially

We're as As a result of the article and At the same tine, the strikings, brawis, gambling, cold- newspaper office, the Dodge America, has got a wrong idea

City Daily Globe, u modern alt about Dedge City.

meten and us up to date as the broadcast I have been cle hot-blooded sent. re-blooded 21

by Jess conditioned plant run

of help, in- The bad old days luged with offers come. and paliksher, they murder, and women for hire Benious, editor

are dend. D'you know we've vllations, and have been over- I have spent most

whelmed with hospitality. than in any other town in with whom

here, and whose #ol 22 churches here?" kindness and enthusiasm are the West, including Virginia of my time

Hamitless. City, Nevada.

ing ment-truck min prezentatives to a huge distributing centre south Landon which has been helping beat their strike. Within hours, the drivers there were also on strike nulficially.

They have all gone. To the abjective observer l was plain that the strikers had bad mon and their women,

the "solidarity of the workers" or the welfare of the people?

Etmeal considerations

apart,

the

L

On the sign

responsible trade union leaders realise that by such an attitude the union stand to be whal public sympathy they have and respectable half-mile of ice- Express Service,

P show you

an ww

isild 1 didn't know, and was Dedge don't call it Dodge City, just call it Dodge - the televisiun noyed by all publiefty about sudden death and steel-strong marshals such as Wyatt Earp?"

Depression

After the

Doage people are used to Blizzards. droughts,

Twisters, sand storms, cloudbursts, and howling hot winds,

CAUTION

LEFT HAND DRIVE

are two Boot Hill and the Neeson, named after a famous eattle man who died after fall-

ng from his horre

Incidentally, you see quite a few men with twisted limbs, and the explanation always is: During my visit the weather #His horse fell on him." Has been benign with bright

Wyal Earp to television, came

to town.

It was carefully explained to me that Bari,,In fact, was never marshal of Dodge Chy, but merely served as a deputy un- der Iwo marshals. But tho and Earn legend holds inst Chestnut Street has been renamed Wyatt Easp Boulevard, The muscuns attract visitors and an old holet renamed Wyatt and occasionally strong bol from all the 18 States, and are Farp Hotel, bing akles, Blueds of munshine,

in good luste, with guns, tro- phies of the past, booklets about the Wild West, and posters with the inevitable "Howdy, Pard-

winds.

On and Off

People have been worried about my windourn, and a com- plete stranger kindly sent me Gome special Kansas lotion, guuratileed to cool and heal the skin.

This is one more exam-

ple of the extraordinary kind- ness of the peopic.

zer,"

The Wyatt Earp Hotel has o supper club, and you can be- come a member for $10 a year and have your own bottle. In Its lounge beer to sold, but I There Is o gross explota never found many customera tion as there Is In Virginia there. City, and its Burkel of saloon, sunded floors, and re- lentless pursuit of the touristat toltars.

depression la De trait Dodge Cily is stimulating, given their answer to the classic the saloons, the gambling honky-Lonks, comes first, houses, the

It has performed prodigies dur question which

the ing

past five years of the swinging doors which "Come

The schools were Denious said: "Publely as drought.

After I had toured the town rattled as the drunks were around," Jess said,

Joss Denious sald: You know to the hotel?" your way back propelled by the bouncers walked towards a silver-blug been valuable in its way. It's bull, the auditorium was built, Austin-Healey and shochorned made everybody Dodge con- hundreds of houses were built

selous, and the tourists come. when things looked bad.

and I said I could find 1 by into the gutter.

and But it can be overdone. We

walking two blocks east Instead, I walked a most mild ourselves in

Dodge today Jess said: "Lots of British are interested in

Dodge, ke mogl Western

one west, Jess sald: Walk bullt.

Is Car Maybe we re- cities, lives by the weather, and nothing. This here and tomorrow.

yours. parlours,

around Cors

vele a bit in the past, but sometimes the weather can be

Drive back and keep 11 as long that's all DYCT and finished a brutal adversary. Dodge and

as you want," with."

Wichita, big city of more than 200,000 people, 150 miles away. know temperatures of over 100

cream

warchnuses, sports

POZEMKENENZONEHENEHEIZENEKOHEATHERONOMERNIMEMEMEKEKLEREHEREHERANEHOHONE144

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At the country club, as tran; quil as any in Westchester, I nd a Martini on the rocks and Jeg had u vodka and tonic. I

introduced WAR

10 several golfers and their wives. This was suburbla, pleasant, relaxed, and I half expected to see parson sipping tea.

Kansas today is a dry State, and although there are liquor stores, no spirits are sold across country 4 bar except in the club, "Set-ups" are permitted some places, and the boys and girls take along their bottles to #night-club-plus-dance-hall called the Lamplighter, where 1 have been spending my even- ings, stufling myself with enor- mous steaks and washing them down with Scotch or Bourbon.

Dodge isn't as dry as it first appears, hor perhaps an taine. As I learned more about the town and its people I realised that it and they are tough as the pioneety. And although they may deny it they have a yearning for the rumbustlous buffalo-skinners and cow-pokes. They suppress the yearning. but it is there. The cowboy is king here, even today.

era

of

On -Boot Hill·

For some reason the cowboy has bocome, 1.9 Bernard Devoto said, the leading man of the great American folk drama of the Wild West, Slim, tanned, taciturn, bravo be Stetsoned and be-chapped, he is the most studied and most imitated of all the cast of fomi- lar and often spurious charac- ters who make up the roman. to legend of plains and past.

The shrine' of Dodge City is the Boot Hill Museum, and the hill itself, on which are perched two statues -- one of two long- horn heads with the inscrip- tion, "My trails become your highways," and the other of a gaunt cowboy, gun in hand, with the inscription, "On the ashes of my camp fire this city is bullt."

It was here that I poecd, somewhat well-consciously, for

Blood

In

On the quiet

Even on

arc

Wichita Dodge wants to show off its

also fet you air conditioned homes and

weak beer and, despite the cold runtours, cigarettes schools-ils wheatfields and surrounding cattle ranches -

Sundays. However, Front streel, although Wichita is so ultra-respectable not itx replicas of the bowdy houses that when dummies are being and Red Eye salom are being dressed in shop windows, by Jaw the shades must be drawn so that lecherous thoughts, will days ago there not inflame the minds was a festa, with the Dodge passers-by.

City cowboy band in full blast I was telling you about the and everybody presumably hap- Wild West? Perhaps not but

Therapy. Hugh O'Brian, the Marshal wait for the next artlete. muscuma. or

moum

Just a Cy

THE LAST WORD ON IT

by GILES

cool Murrinan. Guidance Council, ther's what

of