THE CHINA MAIL, ATURDAY, MAY 3, 1959.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
VERONICA PAPWORTH No wonder we wince as we shop for shoes
HAVE been celebrating with Oliver Messel. The setting? Oliver's own glowing emerald and white. kitchen-with dark- skinned servants in scarlet and black, and, as a finale, a dreamy orange souffle that came straight from the oven to our plates,
The occasion? A lunch party--the pre-nuptial junketings before what he describes as "the marriage of a jazz-ago facade to a neo-Georgian bank." Two shops, side by side in Old Bond Street, are being "wedded" into, one big shoe shop by Edward Rayne-the Queen's own shoemaker.
"To Mr Medel goes the "slightly bewildering" honour of redesigning the whole. He has ourte blanche"with respect for the girders, naturally."
So-as one who has spent hours
of froxiration and misery in shoc
shops"What are your plan?" asked.
I
He told me he had been collect- ing Idess from his women friends: "Margot Fonteyn says full-length mirrots are terribly important Zachary Bcot's wife, Ruth, there must be room to walk up and down and view from all angles."
✩
And BAY'S
Then he asked me: "What do von think?"
Ta been waiting for that.
MÉ WANTY" I told him, "a tiny alcove all to myself. I don't like altiing in a row looking at other people's feat. Mine aren't worth looking at either.
*I WANT ¤ small sofa or a ban.. quette on which I can strew my bag, my parcels, and my furs without feeling that Fm pinching somebody cleo's wat.
"I WANT general walking room beyond so that I can take more than
a couple of steps without tripping ever fiting stools
"And Margot was quite right about the looking glasses.
"I WANT to see the entire range
of shoes in stock-one single shoo in
rach case will do,
"I WANT them all lined up in a big floodlit cupboard so that I can point to my choice-noming my size and colour.
Then if what I want is out of stock it will save everybody's time and trouble.
I
Last week I paid the earth-for a pair of peep-toed shoes that hate-only because the assistant had made five weary pilgrimages to the stockroom in order to surround me with every conceivable shape of shoe with the sole exception of the shape 1 'wanted.
nr
"She looked so tired and I felt
shoce such a best-and the impossible,"
"That appeal to your better na- ture was first-class sales technique," sald someono ciso ut the luncheon parly.
Club
"I see this new shop ae a kind of club," sald Oliver. "Filled with women... beautiful women A place where they can drop in to meet their friends collect the latest gossip and try on a few pairs of shoes, of course, if they feat -like It."
that I told him I could hardly walt
for the opening.
Different
WATCH OUT FOR..
It
the Sophisticated Schoolgirl look. Under such names as "Baby Doll Dress" or "Chemla-Sac,” the understated shape - a shape that is a great deal more
cleverly cut than sberals already a winner, The young and venturesome are buying theD dresses-and wearing them all over town. Once, you get used to the look you will love it for its slightly an.y exuberance. To- day's dress is in
PICTURES BY ROY ROUND
You can buy this dress (price G. Ed.) from Walls shops. The hat in the top
plcture? 25s. 9d, from Harrods.
a beautiful deep blue and green- striped French denim. Play It up with a big hat.
for high summer,
Poge
NANCY SPAIN, who last week
went hunting with Jimmy Edwards, {this week switches to a new extreme→→ |riding camelback in the African sun.
MY Arabian night out began when the plans touched
down in the volvot dark pricked out with lamps Uko. diamonds at the airport and a picture-postcard blood-red sunsot flaming away behind the Coabah.
«Cabs on," shouted my na bormald to the Hotel Cecil, |piràtical frionid, Roy Ruiterford, right shadowy figures in red moeting me. "Let's go to the fezzes sneaked by oprrying 1001,Nights and eat cous cousf" brown-papar parcels, going 'up-
Roy is what is known, even stairs.
In Tangter, which abounds with At 11 p.m. we were able to such people, as a rolling stone. close the bar and whirl off to Но perpetually carries
e 1001 Nights, a restaurant çockatoo an one shoulder, has dealing in cous cous, crackling been snown 10 WCDT gold wood fires, the faint smell of tearrings like a buccaneer, swear incense, Arab
mo groupe he hus actually made about making a whining £9,000 in two years at Tangier drums, nose futes, and twangy sound with In his day Roy has founded fiddles.
the Chelsen Yacht and Boat Club,
And there was also a red-
hot running cabaret consisting So when I discovered ho ne- of ono hard-working dancing tually owns half an hotel in boy, who aged, gilded, sprang Tangler called The Cocli 1 in the rushed there for the week-end draperies for 10 pesetas a night. alt, and twirled hla to see him. 1 was right to There was an English tourist hurry. Just bought another there called Doris who was hotci in Portugal," shouted loving it. Every Roy as we whirled past velled twitched Doris twitched too. It women leading herds of donkeys was ell rather unnerving. fone donkey was carrying a to-
The
time ha
frigerator on its back and looked "I't he marvelloust" cried Jolly odd) and shrouded beard- Durls meaning the dancing boy. ed men wrapped in robes Lke tho I didn't like to seem harsh to Ku Klux Klan. There was u Doris bui the boy at that weird smell in the air; of camels moment was writhing on the and sheep and goats and all the fleer with a tray full of glasses frightening Near Eastern riff- and burning lamps on his head, raff of Mediterranean part, not spilling a drop and not set- camels particularly inek Qua Ught to anything. And the Like something "which could stẹp last time I saw anyors do that the entire Brigade of Guards in trick. It was the Marquis of Ets drill.
Milford Haven at a cocktall party at Margery' Allingham's "Bo I shall be moving out and he didn't spill a single drop very soon," shouted Roy. "Hope or sot light to anything, either. you don't mind helping me sETVO behind the bar. I'm
staffed and
"Araba,
short-
the hotel's full of · They're obviously ex-
HIS MISTAKE
pecting the King of Morocco any WE than ate cous cous, which (rather disappointingly) is
minute now,"
my
Even as I alcod, smewhat semolina arranged over chicken ahummed by
new. duties and trimmed with almonds and
raisins, The barmon came "up" and paid his ex-wife was
扭
Successor To The Throne Of Fashion and the band
By DUDLEY BIRKS
Five years ago. Yves Mathien Saint-Laurent was an unknown amateur' designer who entered in wool fashion sketch competition promoted by the Inter- national Wool Secretariat. Today, at 21, he finds himself on the throne ao suddenly and tragically vacated' by the lite. Chrisifan Dior, the “King of Fashion."
TULE
of
Was
chose for his "trapezium" line. Near the windows are several
fumonia cookery expert enled Elizabeth Taylor, I was being: awfully polite and asking if sho had recently married Mike Todd before I discovered
young. man's name was Tony David and he had moant to Bay Elisabeth David,
tables out at right angles, and at This is a' disente that gets one of these-ance the desk at into everyone in Tangler. It is Christaln Dior the young called the "Timeless Quality" designer formulates his ideas and people often call the Mediterranean "The Pacific" As if he were still present by mistake. Some people think Dior looks down on Sair it has charm, but I' na it Laurent from a portrait behind muddening. his desk und below the pointing is the symbol of the mit ESLEDNÍ In which Dlor was held by France-a medal of the Legion of Honour.
ta
And
"Then"="#"TOC"pl"this"raw" very chic, very angry, Indepen- dent polles of the Kingdom of Morocco came bursting "in" and mado a frightful scene because someone's car was wrongfully parked.
To my
Luckily tale came to his aid. -new last...Octo. ber of the death In 1953, the International Wool Secretariat organised in France Christian Dior, the Fashion Sketch Competition, "king of fashion," left mem, which was open to amateur
Dior would have been proud |bers of his couture salon in designers. Saint-Laurent
to have seen Saint-Laurent after "Just like London," I said one of 10,000 competitors, and a dilemma. For who was to his entry, won him a third grize his first collection, when he was smugly. And then I discovered assume the crown-or was in the eccktail dress section. He called. thom balsary and several people were about to be the House of Dior to close went to Paris to receive his acclaimed by the cheering put as gaol for technical offences prize and decided to stay on and crowds in the street below. and that Jack Ghing (son of for ever?
continue his studies at the Saint-Laurent is à serious man the ex Emp're heavyweight hat actually spent The name of the master has school of the Chambre Syndicale for his age and is walikely to champion)
be affected by success, Ho is the previous" night in clink lived on, however, for journal de la Coutàre Parisienne.
conscious of the greatness of his ƒ because his visa was out of ond buyers recerály surged into.
The following year the IWE. predecessor. In fact the In-date. Not a bit like London, the Dior salon to son yet another organised a second competition, Buence of the absent Dior can collection bearing his famous and, encouraged by his previous bo sensod in the way he speaks So I kept a civil tongue in name. But this time the creator success, Saint-Laurent entered For instance, he told recent my head and crept home to bed, of the models (and contender, several,
drawings, this time, visitor to the solon: "This was where I alept terribly well. My for the French fashion, "") gaining both the first and third his desk. • This is where tel diep a mess of cosse pour and
Yves Mathieu Saint- Laurent, who has lasted the Vizes in the cocktail dress worked and made his sketches: dancing boys and serving doubla
section. His best design was where he constructed his Scotches to English realdents. wine of success, ut the oarly age made up by couturier Hubert de collection". He added in a of 21..
Cilvency in a free black wool lower tone, rather waifully:
amazement the next crepe-o gown which was later."....where I work now
morning I really was in Africa (I had thought it all a dream.... somber buk modelled in Paris before leaders "I tell you," he continued, Jewels-women wis wear ropes That (to quote one of our Except for his
younger interior decorators) "If elegant table for his personal of the fashion industry.
As he spoke he looked to particularly "these short straight skirts are and ropes of jewels
the smell of the Saint-Laurent, who
other wards
reminders will be you've any pennies to spare the clothes. here to stay. Have no doubt of. "I tell you, Ascot
of camels), but the sun was shin- place to buy property Is Pinilico, looks like a typica Ughtly-built
Christian Diora vase of liesing hotly and we were going to American
of-the-valley, high
his favourite the off the . Waists are over-finished for unforgettable."
What about the dressa?" Everyone's buying those tatty bespectacled
Atlantic beach, the next five years.
old hau in a couple of years || school
dreas student, began
1litie were we? Indeed we were.... flower-on the desk, and "Ascot will ba magnificent asked,
designing in 1053 when he was Laurent гуда ensized by further away his mascots, a toy nowhere will be chic-er." this year-tremendous with such
17. At that time he lived in
We went through the Casbah,
only.
"alled he "need the merest understate- That one of our Ten· Bent | Orman, Algeria, where his bathon Christipp Dior and it was not kangaroo and a small lion with
became the terrifying teeth which had been which long before he' Dressers went to a party wear- is a burger, tha where Sani- master's closest collaborator, As made by one of the staff from city where people like Bar- ing the new Oval Look and was Laurent was studying
barn stiam ilve in intense dis- at the Dior himselt had ooted as one odd bits of fabric. town college. Unfortunately he of the judges during two of the
comfort. greeled by her host with
Saint-Laurent lies working too far from Paris the W. S. competitions, there is
We paused on the way had absolutely no centre at dahion to hope for "Darling,
was "Bonne because
found two very the fashion in London. Two of Lica... and after all these | portariai recognition, and kits a doubt that ize had seen the with woollen cloths. Indeed his
(Good Behaviour) smelly camals standing about in There will be roses (come the prettiest girls in town are years... how lovely for you chances of entering the plus promise in the young Saint-ral collection
time Condulie” Laurent work some
One with a saddle on which he created in light-grey a feld, seemed before he engaged him.
wool. His second favourite, was called "Gift of God" (In twar infural' that a man "Proverbe", was also in wool, in Atable), according to the camel who worked so closely with navy blue. Both of these models boy. Mor in creating and preparing showed a slanting line from the bis collections
be shoulders to the ham, back and oppointed as hig'success. Yet front, though slightly scooped in this sudden rise to fame has not just below the bustling in front affected Salt-Laurent,
sta
D
and
I
"Such hola" sale Otto Lucas,
E proportions of a smurt woman are completely different this season," said Ofta Lucas-Britain's biggest dollar
a halo earning milliner-plonking -10-inch poppy petal cloche on crowned, the dellefous, dark- ment of a dress."
Maria Scarafa's hend.
eyed Marla with a tulle saucer
They tell me........... Thoy
beeg here three-fect wide,
biliora
ilke "They will
That tattooing, the exchanging the cloche tor larger beehive shape smothered the waves of the sea froth- sel" craze in the States, is now with apricot feathers-"and ed up into plents and folds.... they narrow... narrow. parrow down jeet."
A
"smart-
have roses), tattooed-with a tiny Jewel-like and when is it due?*** and. flower petala beetie.
It wasn't
to long pointed women musi
*Feathers
Cleanse - Nourish - Tone
with
1970S
world
of
! remoto,
Helena Rubinstein
BEAUTY PREPARATIONS
for
FACIALS MASSAGE * MAKE-UP
Please Consult: Miss DIANA MA
(Beauty Specialist, Helena
Salon d'OR
couture
stein, Institutiöns London, Partal
Room 103, Yu To Sang: Bldg. Rowd, C. Tel. 21417
A short time after this Saint-
abouki
accepted the many
congratula
| tians am his first collection with
charming modesty. This shy What ore
ܩܪ܂
☆
#TDO
MY CHOICE
AND afterwards when I sat
in the near the caves
of Pillars of Hercules and drunk favourite half a bottle of a who called young man brushed during the colours? Saint-Laurent told a Chaud soleil, meaning Heat of greater part of the proceedings, visiter; "For day I prefer sub- ahe Sun and made in Casablanca, Yet throughout be had the sup dued colours, such as navy, grey, I wouldn't have been, in London Except, sing that part of the specialized team naturals are, of course, black for much. srisich, led by Madame for Aye n'clock-it to the ideal the glorious gm than went down Peymande, one of the main hour for but I do not like with a crash and I had to g directors of the House of Dior, black for the evening. I find it back with Roy to open the bar runs the shor,
kcd."
and so face the night Use of Tangier all over again, Il well known that Saint- In relaxation Saint-Laurent Laurent, no matter how good a visits the cinema and theatre. This time it was author designer be la, could not have Ho also likes to read and palat Bupert Croft-Cooke who sud- saved the Dier selon singles portraits, in oils. He finds tho denly loomed up, towing with Ever sincW' 'IS was latter a hangs, from, akcetching him two men. "One of them's founded, it has been eun by a fashions, He only outdoor my gardener.". ho-ipid, "The technical teamS OF WEERMEL
sport is swlanning..
other is the only genulna criminal I've ever met. Honestly This young man who bại hoa taught me tae more about Dior salon Saint- Latsuvorst, no doubt" galor In-suddenly found himself the head than I ever löursed in, mol", [wploutkorn strom héi matouslinge of the Blor-fashion empire wilt, kui
works: its a very foga room have few epare bours for there reflected that Tangler was the abɔɔ) swendi sizrunā krom, pastimes, fer esuturiers spend probably the only place in the fillimi i to: dope Against the even their leisure boure thinking wild where such a runlark sen, in an orderie, stacic of about the dother which may could be made by one who is bestaandrover is then become the fashions of the obviously the cream of the lopuk
geing treatqda bo fulare,
Enthe
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