I
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, APRIL 12, 1958.
LAST DAYS OF SHANGHAI
By JOHN LUFF
AM looking at my Exit Permit now. It is an unprepossessing document, just a bit of paper folded down the middle and over printed with some Chinese characters which themselves ask so little about me. My name, my age, and my passport number, and one other, my sex. Inside is a photograph of my somewhat younger went to see dum. I explained intend
quired ́as a glistentor. So. I proud to record l'hall such a self, specially taken for the occasion. I am smiling. By. my lifeully, and he was in- Now to hook n passage. I the time I had visited the various offices to obtain this mediately anxious to comply with onlled at Thomas Capi's, sill Exit Fermit, they had wiped that smile right off my fee. ny wishes, but we both doubted functioning then, by the was
There are twelve chops at the guarantor must be Chinese, circumstances as he would be their molto. They could not document; which means lo nay 1. And that put me in the devil of considered of sufletes imperi- guarantee comfort they could had to pay twelve separate a difficulty, for such friends Iance to set na a guarantine in a not fromise anything but a rout visits to twelve separate authorl possessed among the Chinese foreigner. However, he took the in the train, and sleeping space ties in connection with this one were not of the
aflient class, form, and without heallation on the deck of the ship. They civediment.
Add to that number and none had the commercial fixed his chop, and I returned it.
whether one in such humble And once again they lived up to
Tape
the visits to the Health Authori- qualifications required of to the Authorities, tles, travel agents, and all the guarantor. Then I thought of usual business connected with a my cumpradore with his fairly considerable journey, and yout farge store, so I went off to see will have some idea of what him. getting out of China meant. Never could n ketap of paper have been so hard to obtakt.
wquid also see to the train ticket, and from then on 1 abould have to stand by ready to leave.
Should this seem strange to the uninitiated, I had better go
H
Jardine's adopted me while in Tientsin. This is an old photograph of their riverside" premises in Tientsin, Why didn't I take one?" I ask you!
Juo
I'told hima iny business and
I saw him a day or so later, over it again. There was 1. showed him the form, and even and he told
me he had been rough Idea of when the ship pointed out the place upeo which
cross-examined by 42 visiting would be In Tientsin, but the From beginning to end, not he should t
his seal as y oficial. What he did not tell outgoing traveller had to be in occasion, unless I ntn much mis money They showed a great White Russians from Harbin, So, through the days I walked one word of English was spekcu. guarantor. He took one long me was that he had stood up for Tientsin at least week before
taken, the vacuum ask was interest in some War Savings poverty viricken, homeless, the the streets of Tientsin, white The men we saw could speak look, then shook his head, and English all right, but they would addressed me thus: "Mr Luff: it. me, had waived aside any sug- his ship sailed,. More than that, taken to pieces, and inspected, Certificates we had bought in flotsam and jeteam of revolution, face, red food, brown faco, black
are here, you need gestion that I might be a person it was advisable to take 1 x The reason? Well, people were England during the War, and counter-revolution, and again id face, passed to and fro not, Fair enough, Chinese Js while you
who bad. or who would, hurt vacant seat on the train out of ruggling US dollars out of naked many questions about volution; the windering Jewa eyes stared coldly, brown eyes the language of China, but the money, I will give you money,
He Shanghal. You could not go to China, and concealing them in them, We were also allowed to of the, twentieth century, glowed holly, Black eyes narrow- person who had lived there to Should you need food, I with country in any way.
The the Shanghai Station, booking
relain a big Head Chinese Silver nowhere could they and peace. ed curiously, and each and avery fong, and could not make him- give you food.
But sign that old I was a good man.
next day 1 received my Exil office and say: "I want a ticket such nocent objects as vactamm
male it dollar as a curio.
one accmed to demand an ex- reif understood was say the document, never,"
Permit; When we British tell for next Wednesday on the flasks. The Chinese
Longh for them when they were
Thero least, made to feel uncomfort
What you had to de cought,
were Germans from planation of li vil. but their dishonesty These fatter violis were spaced i eble. The drill was to take
our tales of National Pride, they 5.30 p.m."
for us all when
spent in Tsingtao, strange mystic raceless the days we
Hungry faces, fat facos, beard- are usually tules of noble deeds, was to put your name on the made it tough for removed from the mundane 11, and when your number was
bekiga from Welting wehá dorug rigo ed faces met in restaurante and we came to gel nut. So aller u
Tientsin, It was a fascinating had lost their identity in that drank strange German beers, influences of personal advan- posted up in the station, leave journey of two alghts and a day.
place at that time. Everyone, mysterious City. Exiles from whose trade marke reminded.one Our literature is rich right away. langes. with tales of friendship. Cutt
My lugauge bad atrendy gone, country of North China, we leaving China gathered there. Imperial Austria, Geomory, and of ancient castles tong pamed sider then if you will.
it was packed a bit ago and arrived at Tientsin at about five Every nationally under the sun Ruusla, they seemed the Rip Voa away, and of the Larela gill Chinese had stood up to the handed over to the Chinese u'clock in the morning.
found a home of some kind there Winkle's of a strange awaken- singing on a rock whole Juggernaut of oficia! Authorities together with a list That is not a good time to be during such time Tiantain was ing, and preened themselves in existent Rhine.
weaucracy to speak on beheit in sextet of every bit and plece alourogated. Stiff, more than the only departure port..
an ancient manner, as if to throw of the drowsy enchantment of
along your servant, a menial, who was nevertheless, some- thing of a linguist, I got my for, and the only bit of English writing on it is opposite the characters
to provided Genote "Foreign_name."
Rea
Se la Arcli, 104, 1qị out for the town in pursuit of this Exit Permit Application was fairly rany. I was asked why I want; ed to leave China, and gave the excuse we were all, giving, worl I was then given certain
farms to all up Which gave. fairly detalled report of the length of time I had been in China, and, all Urat I hud dorio
of Que
Now I was really in trouble: had nightmares of seeing myself grow old in a strange land, an involuntary exile. Then occur
those
occasions red which somehow colour that
afterwards, matter what happens, no matter how disliluoard you becomin, you van look back and say, "There one...."
נקר
won some-
spent
Arvss the road at the bottom
there was of diag Avenue, sp Horticulturist. I very little money in his shop. but had given him, in my time, about two small orders for pot plus for the school, and not and again, would buy myself a plant or two for the house,
casud) sort of way.
This
through all
over
wonderful the
Trek To Tientsin
of one he called friend. It was I was taking out of Shanghal, common tired, much in need of
a beautiful thing to do, and men What a Job! "Collar studs. a shave and a wash, I had to.ŋoj have been canonised for less. (man's) one,"
As
L
I paid off my into a small room where I wasj The funny part about it is 1 never knew his name, hul some. To have thought of reward servant the customary money of questioned. For one moment, i there.
had the Idea that the train had These forms had to be how we became friends in a would have spollt the whole some months sulary, plus
We little and gave him il Sometimes thing for both him and me. returned to the Exit Permit
the gone onto a switch somewhere, I was unable to Authorities with the chop of I would drift into his chop, and let it rest there, and paried with things
inke and had finished up in Russia, I hope nothing I away, which, 1. think were at for my Inquisitorway guarantur. This latter presented we would talk about flowers, handshake.
He have written should have placed some value to hàn during the Chinese, but Russian. On the no difficulty, for one of the and Anwer arrangement, largest British
wall was the portrait of Lenin, concerns in loved his art, and although he him in jeopardy. I think not, months ahead.
the usual one seen in official Shanghai were prepared to state was not a wealthy man, he for in accepting his guarantee,
Government ac-. So espe the last evening of Soviet offices. A Chinose id that John Luur was
me some the Chinese good would often give
man of my last day in Shanghai. * All-enter, but as far as I could tell, citizen, so thua sponsored, re- dewers to take home after I had cepted him
Or turned my forms to the Chinese monde my purchape,
principle. I shall not meet his day people had been calling to the Russian was the boss, Exit Permit Authorities.
I spent the day the other Hond, he might have They
was the only Chinese I like again; I do not suppose I say goodbye, He
which been an adviser-teacher, showing la turn as quickly returned know who approximated to any shall ever see him again; but I looking over the school them, and told me my sponsor thing the Exit Permit people re- shall never forget him, and I am I had come to love, and had the Chinese how to carry out the
hoped to add my part to its con- job of interrogating, tredj siderable reputation. So, terribly passengers.. sad. I made my final forewells, He did not keep me long, but End a friend drove me to the I was told to report to the pollee station. There, a little company fore ninon. We had a very of children had gathered to say reasonable apartment booked at Hoodbye. So it all added up to the Court Hotel, and as I hati| this. To leave, un abject an introductory letter to hand to foreigner, subjected to harsh Mr Bridges, we were made as dealing, yet richer for a glimpse comfortable as the rather of a great people about to come nastere economy of Tientsin per- Into their own again.
Thinking ahead...
New runways today for new
and bigger jet aircraft tomorrow.
Bigger aircraft mean bigger
passenger loads. Jardine's Airways Dapartment will handle
the greater part of this traffic.
Jardines, the most experienced air travel®
organization in the Colony,
face these developments with confidence.
Why not let us take care
of your travel drṛangements;
make a note of our new telephone numbers now, or
call at Alexandra House
JARDINE'S AIRWAYS DEPT.
Alexander House, Tel. 30971
are folly good booking agente.
Airways Terminal, Peninsula Hotel, Kowloda 64800 Reservations Enquiries (Day and Night) 27711.
I wished I could tell them I
But that, and n folost In Chinese life, and should make a once again to hall Wilfam II. Salurday. Francis Joseph, and Nicholas II, when the wanderers were Home ugnin And Jata this maelstrom
of international artarchy, Shang- hof emptied personnel.
in a never
how we left,
talo for mex?
NEXT WEEK:
Its own exolle OUTWARD BOUND
SHOW BUSINESS
Roderick
Mann
Rossano Brazzi's Lament:
I'm Hated In Italy
mitted. Tired, I fell asleep, and DOSSANO BRAZZI was sitting in the Savoy with the when I awakened, it was past I look of a man. for whom the tumbrll had just been twelve o'clock. This was a pretty
wished them well, and that pickle.
I had got off on the summoned. He made rooni for me and I asked him the there were million of English- wrong foot already, and had cause of his suulness. After all, wasn't he getting £80,000 men like me, who watched Chinn falled to report to the police. a picture and regular meals?
laking her place in the com-
munity of great actions, with pride.
But the bureaucrat knows
power
Tape
My wife had prepared a cold chicken for our supper, and we were able to get boiling water
They were quite reasonable on the train to add to our coffee about it, and told me to report the next day before twelve o'clock.
essence.
Rea
As it was some eleven days before the 55 Heinrich Jessenti
"I will tell you," said Brazzi. "I wouldn't cross ihe street "The truth is that, though I am to seg her." Bald Brazzle.. popular elsewhere, the Itailing pleasantly hate me. I have just made +
nim of South Polfie, Still they LOST FRIENDS.... hate me. Why should this be?"
A LONG, LONG SIGH Do you know," sald Brazzi, must have brought
there anyone else
As he spoke his eyes look in
SINATRA, DRAZZI Titls contenders,
BOMID
nothing of that. His breed is In a dop, I rushed round to international, his blood so much Jardine's who had elected, to lepid ink, his imagination no place their facilities at the dis- "You Well ma" I said, enter. "WHILE we're on the subject greater than a rubber stamp. posal of such stray birds as my-" Ing into the spirit of the thing.. Yet we, the people, have sur self who served DE servants of
you wouldn't cross the street to rendered all
into his the British Interests In Shanghol,
outsido see?" I made a success hinds, T could not say life to but were not sitzched to a firm. Italy cald Brazzi. This thoy. #Keap!--Onid-Brazal-darkly unyone fur whoever found a
cannot forgive, It is the same "Ava Gardner," By way of ex- One of their men looked after with Sophia Loren, bureaucrat with loyalty to any-
They halo planation, ha added: "I made a thing but his affec stool?.
me, and took me to the police her too. If we had both stayed im with her once. station. I told them the truth; home and starved to death they I was fred, I had overslept, and would have loved us. But to the entire room like radar "Well," said Brazzi "I can failed to report in time,
make money in Hollywood-that scanners, an It expecting at any only tell you I took David Lean
moment that. was unforgivable."
she would leap to the premiere in New York He sat there, with his grey suit from behind a curtain (a foot, and' he said it was the best and matching hair, looking dis- I might add, at which Mias thing I had done.", consolate.
Gardner excels.)
"I'm glad about that," I said. "Sometimes I wonder about "Because you've made show business,!" said Brazzi - stinkors since last we met."
"About friends, 1 We had a first class coach to would sall from Tientsin, we had
mournfully. mean. When I went to He looked disconsolato again, ourselves. It was scupulously plenty of time to complete such
"Yes," he said, "there wns clean, on the split second in the formalities as were required. Amillions in tourism to Italy Hollywood in 1948 to make ilma-table. The attendants were. Journey to the Custom House to through Summer Madness and Little Women they were all over Interlude, with that awful girl a Fountain, me. Then the flint came out and June Allyson-how can Dick effelently remote, but courteous present for their inspection such Tree, Colna in
I had Guides no longer suy: That's was a dop. Do you know I Powull stand her?-and Legend valuabler we possessed. and helpful at all times.
one pair of gold cufflinics and the monument by Bersinl. They never got a single phone call of the Lost, with Loren ond John Wayne. That was really Food was brought to the set of dress studs, and a heavy say: "That's where Brazzi idesed after that?"
"And now...
harrible. We lived in the desert spacious carriage which had a cigarette cose, given me by some Hepburn, "" (kind of ist-down
"Well," said Brazzi. "Now I for wooks, you know, and baled Nevertheless, lable in the schoolchildren." centre. We ate ham and eggs every item was inspected with He sighed. A long, sad, back- have no friends in show busios, cach other.
It's just not possible. meticulous attention, and, then of-the-shils sigh.
All the We walked out into the foyer. for the most part, and they were they were roplaced in the case
What abou Lollobrigida?” I time you're talking to another
You know what I am?" ka cooked very appetisingly, and served on apollem plates.
and sealed and stamped, and sort said.
actor you know he is watching "Ah," kald Brazzi. "What ble profile in the
bald sadly. of placed out of bounds until I
mirror or (about har. " was territorily tree of China.
wondering how he cari steal your "You misunderstand," I said. part." A visit to the bank demanded "I mean-la she also classified order that we had hot drinks a statement that I porressed no amongst the damned?” from time to time, we used to currency but JMP, the metal "No," said Brozzi, "She's all ask the attendant for hot water, Chinese currency. I was allowed right. You see, she stuys ja 668 One time he was gone for quito to excharigo some of this for a Laly,"
time, and on that amalk amount, of Hongkong "What do you think of ker?" new dim South Pacific?"
Thero was only one- untary incident, on the journey. In
a lonc
FERDINAND
'MY BEST YET! TALKING about paris,"
"Tell me," I said.
"I am Hollywood's No. 2 Dogo," said Brazzi.
He walked to the door,
Who's No. 17" I called after
I
him
said, "what about your
·By Mik
"Why," seld Brazzi, "Sinatın, of coured,
BRUSSELS FAIR
FLY
SWISSAIR
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