1958-02-15 — Page 9

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·THE ·CHINA MAIL SATURDAY, FEBRUARY - 15, 1958.

WOMANSENSE

WEEK-END

....And Now News Of

The German Collections

By MAGDA MEYER

Page

One by one the world's fashion designers are, revealing their creations for spring. German fashion houses, as a whole, favour the seck allhouetto, but blousing and pleating are also much in evidence,

1. A

VIOLENT change in first appeared a number of basket weave wool is the A fashion such

03 that an ARD,

fabric which has been used for this casual top- coat with four-fifths length sleeves, tallored collar and rovèrs, patch pockets at bust level and à loose belt placed just below the nafura) waist- line; Modellhaus Schwabe.

2. This voluminous double-breasted coat with the deep stand-away collar is in a thick white wool; by Lindenstaedt & Brettschneider.

3. Cut on the lines of a battle-blouse, but crop- ped short of the waist, this jacket is worn over a slender dress in the same light red wool fabric; by Sinobe-Seger.

4. The sack dress with a V-shaped bloused back, which gives it the appear- ance of a two-piece, is Been hore in damo red wool; by Shaebo-Soger.

5. Shepherd check worsted is the fabric used for this young-style two- piece dress. The short skirt is pleated ali round, as is the sleeveless decol lete top which is caught into a band at the waist; by Staebe-Seger.

6. Another young style is this dress and jacket ensemble in a fine whita wool with a caramel over- check. The wide pleated skirt of the dress la team- ed with a casually belted jacket which la fitted at the front and bloused at the back. Note the short peplum; by B. & E. Modello.

7. This afternoon dress relles for its effect on the use of two plain wool fabrics in different shades, to simulate a cowl-collared bolero and a double skirt; by Staebe-Seger.

which vary in length from sulle from a fashion point of just above the waist to just view. However, not all dresses below it, Sometimes the object follow the sack silhouette. The is for the ensemble to look like shirt-waiter still manage to #dross and jacket and some survive and the renaissance of times it is intended to look the afternoon dress which jackets like the dresses, are with the re-introduction of like a mult. Either way, the coincided, Sat- mirprisingly, anay waisted.

soft, drapable fabrics in highs fashion, continues strongly.

meuna

which took place in 1947

What then is the outlook for poring 19587 So with the introduction of German fashion designers aro Dior's New Look is unlikely concerned it is still the sack to be witnessed again for a 1920's, but which is definitely allhouette reminiscent of the very long time.

Let us style with the women of 1938. hope so anyway, for it was Designers are confident that the Coats are featured in varying made possible on that ocen- new silhouette will eventually lengths and the choice sion" because the whole cain all-round acceptance from

styles appears to be wider than The fino wool fabrics - which fashion industry had been

women of all ages and all of late. The straight topcoat are in fashion for spring, tange disrupted by the war. Once hapon. While it makes a sliin La given topical interest by from rough, coarse, and dry-

allmmor it is also pire even this great industry had been kind

of low-placed belts, bandling qualities to soft, to the more amply Stylish wrap-over coats are feecy fabrics with a blurred, sat in motion again, any proportioned In that it does

tapared narrowly to the bem hair murface. With few excep basic changes had to bo not follow closely the contoure once more; swaggers are cut tions, novelty cloths, have pro gradual for it is always im- of the body.

on generous lines and executed nounced Burface interest possible to switch the de zelf belt does not alter the

of an optional in rich fabrics; and heavier, achieved by the incorporation

double-breasted modela

of special yarns and texture mand for different types of general effect of the elongated voluminous in every detall. effects, Particularly in favour fabrica, colours, accessories Como." The soft daw of the Incidentally, coals, like suit aro woollens that kuwe + and atyles at a moment's fabric is further stressed by Jackets, are often matches to knitted look, cable stitch pat- notice.

bloused effects on many of the the dresses worn under them torna and similar typical young looking two pieces by the linking of some facet of weaves. Popular, too, are basket where the fullness of the fucket the fabrics In which they Aro weaves with a plaited appear- is caught in at the hips by a made, such as colour, pattern, anco and Shetland-type fabrics, narrow bolt.

texture or weave. The ensemble On the other hand, plain cloths theme is one which always particularly in white...will be proves popular with German Important in the coming season. designers.

In the field of soft, flowing Because the sack is the big fabrics for afternoon, cocktail gest talking point in the Ger- and evening wear, wool "geor- Many dresses are accom- man collections, dresses are goites and fine, wool jerskyr pasted by matching Jackots more important than coals and are expected to be prominant,

There is no doubt that the zack marks a major evolution in the fashion story, but although it did not come into prominence as such until last season, the loose, easy look which by-pazes the waist and does not emphasise the burt in fact, the Look which epitomises the sack silhouette—-

The addition

As a general rule, sleeves are elim and medium in length while collars stand away from the nock to leave uncluttered necklines.

MAKE-UP METHODS

E

TAVER watch a make-up expert do a job? It's fascinating!

Like an artist, he studies the canvas, only in his case it's a face, and then he goes to town.

Wo watched a make-up man do a girl with a very full face.

He matched her sidin tone to make-up buvo, smoothed it on with quick, upward strokes,

Out came the rouge pot. We blinched as be put three big blobs of rouge on each check, Had he lost, this mind?

"Emphasises eyes. Good for evening wear," he said.

Next he tackled eyelashes, applying mascara to top lashes, which were very light in con- trast to the girl's dark hair.

"Needa A second coat of mascara when the first dries," he observed, and whipped out a black eyebrow pencil. Dortly, he drew a black line along the rim of the eye, just above the lower, lashes,

For a final eye touch, he used a blue eyeshadow stick to draw alina of colour on the eyeild, just above the upper lsh line. Blended with his fingertip, and powdered to prevent amearing, it gave just a tint of colouring. Deftly he blended in the

Powdering was Oso lust siẹp. rouge, starting on the check- bone, under the eye, bringing it He poured powder lato the palm out to the side of the face and into it, applied it to the fees, of his hand pressed the paff down to the Jawbone.

"Creates the illusion of 'silm- ness," he said, standing back to view the effect.

"Small eyes," he muttered, "but lovely blue colour," and ho ibhed a dot of rouge on each eyelid.

pressing in

"That's the way to make powder adhere," he said.

Make-upt It's magle for any if she just knows how to By JEANNE D'ARCY

use it.

SPOTLIGHT YOUR EYES for a gula evening bý using this trick: Blend rouge along the eyelid. It will

make eyes seem brighter.

*

Knees Are Not Glamorous

the

.

da much

ré-

NASHION has been heading back no steadily and concealed and the Intter

A possible, handkerchief-point skirts and tubular jumpers of the mid- which seems to me a thorough.

ly sound philosophy of life. twenties that The Boy Friend's girl friend now wears her costumes with a perfectly 1958 air of chic.

Even a few wistful glances at the fashions of the 1910's and '80's haven't put the big dressmakers off their deep, deep nostalgia for the Jazz Age seen through sputnik-sensitised eyes.

The two things everybody re- cognises as supremely twentyish about the Twenties were, of course, the total absence of bus! ene waist, and the astonishing of knew The bold presence designers, courageous felipwa thinking only of their Art, have already clminated the waist. and this season a wave of kneo- Uberation was started by the Italians, with skirts two inches above that long-lost horizon, the kneecap.

Mrs Janey Ironside, the Jerder, neat and wholly un- professorial-looking Professor of Fashion at the Royal College of Art (she has the understated elegance of someone who was once herself an excellent dress- designer)

Bay2 the doubts whether the extreme kace- revealing trend is here to stay. Short skirt

YVONNE METOHELL

Women ought to look feminina

A glimpse

A Mrs Ironside reminded me, the point about the genuine

20's hemline wasn't that

you

stared straight into a forest of knece, but that you thought at any moment you might catch u glimpse of them,

Aa anyone knows who bas ever sat glumly in omniscienti boredom on a crowded bikini- beach, most of the female

anatomy responds gratefully, to 'a touch of mystery and, speak- ing personally, I'd have thought that whatever else was revealed as the Cycle of Fashion turns. the average kneo (and most kntes are so very average) was beller kept more or less per- maren ly mumed.

Apart from the troubled and profoundly unfascinating locust years of the blue sorgo gyme funle, the last time I revealed contemplated the.

recently my knees to the world with revealed knees of some model- any sort of equanimity was in

I girls she had hilberto admired. 1927 of thereabouts, when

Mitchell (now ro- sported a Chanel-type knitted hearsing Epitaph for George Alk jumper-ruit, end short white Dillon for the Royal Court socks. Three-year-olds you Theatre) says:

"Women who have my permission to copy; dress to please mon ought to look your dour little dimpled pink na feminine as possible, and, to and frequently grabby knees me that means longer skirts are a pleasure to look at, and petticoats.

Yvonne

She likes the easy, waistless line for herself, with a short skirt finishing, just below the kace; says "I don't really think kates ought to show on most "I have no objection to knees in themselves, but there can't people, except perhaps the fair-

DEO."

Quite wrong

I could, of course, be quite A young

ly plump under-twention. And be much trou-trou about a wrong. I remember possibly Marlene, some time really short skirt. According to woman of around nisa or ten current rules, I think I'm alWaze who was the big sensation of wearing dresses that are much one particular 'party where sht too long--but the most femininy raised a dainty boudant not thing in the world is a skirt › skirt to demonstrate the that's almost to the ground."

her honourable Rugger scars

She added: "My own young students nG all tremendously short enthusiastic about the walatless line, and are working on hem-lines 17in, from the ground" shorter, in fact, than the 10 Inches-from-the-ground length of the 20% which allowed discreet coverage for bloomers Balbing just above the knee.

Mrs Ironside thought the could, it purbed, think of some knees all of them very young --that wouldn't look so bad, but confessed, to a distinct fool mg AC stypende ation keying

JILL BENNÄg'" (starring in kneos tiad won on the field of Dinner with the Family at the battle the attended a vigorous New Theatre) had the briefest co-educational prep school and and, in my opinion, the most pad the makings of an Ane valid comment to make on the scruns-half), and other whole de problem, "Women's athletle-ladies: hard their know knees, she says with cheerful put sadly but of joint, vigour, are hell but men's are A good nugget-girl ought to marvellqua?FA

be able to: faon the new Collec zalm. Biennalt feels strunify dớng with confidence. that grouter. happiness would crys cosula prens the former belos. By AMANDA MARSHALL

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