THE CHINA MAIL, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 1958.
THE FIRST ASCENT OF MONT BLANC
Now Regarded As The Most Important Event In Mountaineering History
By CHARLES STEVENS
Grim and determined, the courageous Swiss guide struggled up the last few yards of the snowy slope. He had achieved what all the world had thought impossible. He was standing where no man had stood before-at the summit of Europe.
IMPORTANT CHANGES IN
RUGBY UNION FOOTBALL LAWS ANNOUNCED
London, Feb. 4.
The most important of the changes in tho laws of Rugby Union football, agreed by the International Board Inst month and announced today, concern the scrummage, The amended scrummage law states that the hooker of the team with the loose head must hook with the foot farthest from the side on which the scrum half puts the ball in, but the opposing hooker may use the nearer foot.
Triumphantly he shouted, "I have arrived alone. I am the king of Mont The alterations in the rules have been designed to speed
Blane. I am the statue on this huge pedestal."
When his excitement had subsided, Jacques Balmat gallantly descended the steep and difficult slope to help his companion, Dr Michel-Cabriel Paccard, who had collapsed, exhausted and discouraged.
Then, will supreme courage, of Philosophy
the
l
aru]
Natural even from adventure
of places."
in high
he dragged the doctor bacit up || Selenco In the Academy the slope so that he might | Geneva, and Mure-Theodore Mont Blanc, Everest, Nanga sture tha Kreat triumph
of Bourri.
in the Purbat... most of the highest Preventor
have now Calliedral of Geneva.
peaks of the world reaching the sumanit
least that is what AL
Both these eminent men had been climbed. And yet moun- world was led to believe for dreamed of conquering Monttineering as a sport is thriving
theas never before. Only Blanc. Bourrit regarded
mountain is almost his personal
on, and strongly resented Why do men and women
So he risk their lives to reach sum- Faccard's "trespassing."
of the mils which have already been record fasthed the
cented?
Sir Arnold Luna answers the
in his entertaining book "A
Mountaineering Century
pub- (Allen and Unwin, 30s).
shed as a centenary tribute to the Alpine Club,
more than a century. now, with
discovery the fresh evidence and a thorough examination of all the relevant information, has the truth been revealed about this great and historic achievement, a moun taineering feat which was every bit as sensational at the time as the conquest of Everest was in 1953.
Coinciding with the centen- ary of the Alpine Club, centor of all mountaineering clubs, and the bicentenary of Dr Paccard's birth, Contes the publication of "The First Accent of Mont Blane" (Oxford Uni- versity Press, 70s).
The authors are Professor
Graham Brown, one of the greatest mountaineers of modern Almes, and Sir Gavin de Beer, who discovered many docu- menis relating to the ascent of Mont Blanc.
Stirring Tale
Arst
recent, stressing his pioneering fforts mountain.
De Saussure, also prompted by jealously, made no reference to Paccard in his books about the first ascents. For his own amitts, he had engineers mokę
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Was
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up the game and reduce the number of atoppages. They will come into effect in England, Ireland, Scot- land and Wales in season 1958-59, and in Australia, New Zealand und South Africa in April next. Under the amendments to the laws, it will be necessary to play the ball with the, foot
end an a tackic. Intentional knock-or
after
bo
penalised.
will not
if a player catching the ball uninten- direct from
a kick knocks on, but tionally
Covers the ball before touches the ground of another player, play will continue.
*C*
it
Far East Land Forces Rugby Competition
Singapore, Feb. 3.
Royal Army Service Corps (Singapore) today won the Far East Land Forces Rugby com-
petition when they beat the de- fending champions, King's Own Borderers (Malaya), Scottish by eight points to five.
RASC points came from a try and a converted try, and KOSB points from one converted try,
The Scotsmen were leading 5-0 at half time, and had things orgely their own way in the
cond
hali,
It will be permissible for the kicker to place the ball before kicking at goal after a try, and a penalty kick will be permitted to be taken in any direction. not necessarily, as
ht now, least live yards towards the opponents' roal-line.
and Early and lute tackling dangerous
tacking Lire now mule path, build huis, and
Artificial Problem
defined, on ilegal, and in the event of foul play the referee eut steps for difficult climbs.
of sport", he will be able to award a penalty legend Isaimmat
"The P5SCHCC strengthened, most of all, in says, the invention antry if he considers a try would
until the RASC problem for the fun "probably”, the 1832.
guide
instead of "un-winger Connon Carey made two When
was artificial elder of solving it. Artincial difcul- doubtedly", have been scored. Interviewed by the
|Epectacular breaks. ties are Invented in order that Alexandre Dumas. Balmat,
Most Important Corey gained possession from well plied with wine, talked the game may continue, for a
a tackle in his own 25, and Tan These changes were the most 80 yards Lo while fame in which victory is inevit-
score between the almost uninterruptedly, Dhamas took notes and accepted
able soon loses its attraction." Important among the 03 pro-posts and give his side on easy at his face value anything thet
Thus, soon after the conquest posals considered by the Board,conversion. famous of
Edmund The majority were minor amend- said by
Everest, the
Two minutes lofer, with Hillary said he hoped to tackle ments, involving the changing "superman."
the mountain from the
of single words or phrases, KOSB again attacking, Corey In
this interview. Daimat meult northern approach.
Another change contemt snatched the batt from an inter- not enly made himself the hero
the scrummaße. Cupt, and went over the KOSB And there are many ways of binding of the ascent, but claimed to
While previously only the front line near corner flog- fackling peaks which are no trave made extensive and
longer impregnable. Guideless row forwards were required to Reuter, solitary explorations before
the law climbing, winter mountaineer bind with the arms, band. Throughout his story,
now provides that "all other Dr Paccard was pictured as a ing and ski mountaineering are
players in a scruminage must examples of "new" approaches, Limid novice.
bind with at least one arm "A Century of Mountaineer- around Dumas' story, based on this
the body of another ing" is not Д comprehensive Interview, was necepted by the
history
of mountaineering, but player of the same team. It world us an authentle history.
a player in a series of factual essays in is also legal for Balmat became world-famous;
which the author discusses the the front row to have his head WHA discredited and Paccard
great men and feats in moun-next to that of a player of the forgotten.
same team, taineering and gives bla own The doctor was obviously not
views on mountains and mou- Attention was given to the 11 self-seeking man. But no
Lainocting.
Ineout. Law 20 will prevent a the ball in his player with one could be expected to accept so when, in 1787, Paccard met such an injustice lying down.
possession from trying to force his way through players of his Halmat in a street, he gave
own team-not merely forwards h a blow between the eyes
as now-in front of him when it has gone out from a line-out as with his umbrella and felled
well as a scrummage. Nor must un off-side player wilfully get in front of a teammate who is in possession of the ball prevent opponents from reaching him.
Together they have wellten a alirring tale of humon von-
same time, | 201 quest and, at the presented a devastating indict-
the ment of one of
KrChest traids in the history
iny sport.
میں
Painstaking research has pro- duced muss of evidence to prove beyond doubt thirt Balmat's version of the famous ascent was both inaccurate and unfair.
The real hero and conqueror' on the first ascent of Mont Blane in 1786 was, It turns out, the village doctor, Pactard, who was too modest to publish an account of his conquest.
Belmal Wan one of several villains in this story of deceit. jealousy, nalice and greed, Equally guilty of propagating the Balmat legend were Horace. Benedict de Saussure, Professor
him."
Patriotic Motives
Dr Paceard's trut WAS prompted by purely patriofic motives. He wanted to prove that "our" Mont Blanc, as he nol it's acme claimed, the Monte Hosa or the
Women's World called, and Speed Skating Finsteraarhorn, was
Championship
Sweden, Feb. 3.
The Soviet Union will have a feet of Ave in the Women's World Speed Skating Champion. ship, which will be held at Kristinehamm, on Saturday and Sunday.
Other nations represented by the 27 competitors nre Aus- East Germany, tralla, China, Japan, Hollandi, Norway, Po- Jazid, United States, and Sweden. -Reuter.
Commonwealth Air Force Rugby Team For Borneo
Singapore, Feb. 3.
I
Lavishly illustrated, written in lively and authoritative lyle, this is a book which will entertain a wider public than those who "go mountaineering,"
-London Kapress Service).
(COPYRIGHT)
Hashim Khan In Brilliant Form At
Europe's Lansdowne Club
highest mountain.
Paccard was a great climber and his ascent of Mònt Blane is now regarded as the most im- portani single event in the his- lory of mountaineering.
Muns lesser mountains had been climbed before 1780 but the conquest
the "un- climbable Mont Blanc fired the imagination of the whole world. And this triumph of the village doctor was the frst of a series of events which gave birth to the great modern spurt of mountaineering,
Sir John Hunt, leader of the Juccessful Everest expedition, mys in A foreword to this magnificent book that Pac- cart''s ascent was the first milestone in the history of
mountaineering."
In terms of human endeavour
Opposing Team
the
WORLD CUP
Israel And Wales. Start Training At Cardiff
London, Feb. 3. The Israeli team started training at Cardiī today for its
5
SOCCER REFEREES ARE AGITATING FOR MORIE.
MONEY.
BELT UP OR I'LL SEND YOU MARCHING
Velvet
glove for Turning away wrath.
Eye of
a hawk
Speech of
a Diplomat
Forceful personality
Arms that don''t Come out of socket When tugged by irate players
FOR ALL THIS
A REFEREE SHOULD HAVE A PRIME MINISTERS SALARY BUT IF
AS 99% OF THE SPECTATORS BELIEVE, HE IS
Heart, full of love for the game of hea Stay home and but his feet up, in front of "The fire."
Head impervious, to empty bottles fruit etc.
Eye at back
of head
Keen hearing so he knows when, he blows his whistle
Ability to fell correct
time
Sense of Justice
Thick skin so
he's not upset by losing tearns report on. referee
Speed and stamina of an Ibbotson to keep up with play.
BUND, DAFT, DEAF, CRIPPLED, OUT OF CONDITION, SUSCEPTIBLE TO BRUBES, RELATED TO THE HOME GOALKEEPER AND IS NOT ON THE BOOKS AT SOMERSET HOUSE, THEN HIS PRESENT 6 GUINEAS A MATCH, IS TOO MUCH .
RMULJETT
1
THE I CANNOT RESIST CHALLENGE TO SAVE MILLWALL FROM THE FOURTH DIVISION
Says JIMMY SEED
London.
An old friend from London told me the other day: "I don't
know whether to congratulate you or kick you in the teeth.” "I think you must be crazy to come back as a League manager -to hrow yourself overboard when you wore paddling away comfortably in your dinghy as a chief scout.'
"
But at least he gave me credit for having a go. That's how it's been all the time since Millwall announced I would be
their new manager,
!
and then ernekup.. You can vegetate too young.
Nobody can understand why I ship were like heaven. Charlton return match against Wales in should choose to leave a good were good to me financially and
I'm making no promises, FU the qualifying round of the job in the background with played golf and relaxed.
Just do my best for the club World Football Cup on February Bristol Cily to take over trying
And then the chance of joining that has already given me, s to save Millwall from the Fourth Bristol City as chief scout crop-shot in the arm by putting their Wales beat Israel two to nil Division,
ped up and I was completely faith in me.. in their first match at Tel Aviv.
Even my wife fecla I must be happy." Team Manager Colonel Sochus a little crazy. So I had better
win but I do theoretical football"
.
I had the best of both world
properly thrown in, the opposing said, "In theory, Wales should explain why I should do this at I was in the game-and yet 1
If at a line-out the ball is not team will in future have the right either to throw the ball in or to take u serummage ter yards in from the place where the ball went into touch.
general effect Tho
-London Express Service),
(COPYRIGIIT)
not believe in [02.
There's no disguising the fact, I was not directly responsible to Wales also started
training was all in mentally and physics board of directors for every ALPINE CHAMPIONSHIPS but without their star centre-ally when I left Charlton. Let's Saturday's result.
say I didn't sleep well at nights The Welsh International who and leave it at that.
of
halt John Charles,
A
now plays for Italy's "Juventus"
today,France-Presse.
But
I never lost my love of
something to contribute to the
Way of Life
London, Feb. 3. Hashim Khan (Pakistan) who number of the alterations held
the Open Championship that the advantage rule will for five years, was in brilliant apply in every phase of the is scheduled to arrive here later footbull and I felt I still had continued Indefinitely for me form in the Dunlop SUU Suncas game except the kickoff and Open
Squash Ruckels Tournament which be- gan at the Lansdowne Club, London today,
the
throw-in from touch, An addition to Law 5, which forbids players wearing dan- gerous projections like rings, buckles,
etcetera,
states
He needed only 11 minutes to beat Bill Gordon (Mariborough "shoulder pads are prohibited College) 8-2, 9-0 und 9-0.
unless the referee is satisfied Although
Englishman that scored only two points, he twice
♫ player requires pro- tection following injury and led in the first game by 1-0 and
that the protective pad is not 2-0--France-Presse.
of hard material."China Mail: Special..
His New Player
Ozugh Ramadan Karayel,
Italy Wins Triangular World Bridge Contest
Scottish FA Second Round Draw
Glasgow, Fob. 3.
The draw for the Ecottish Football Association Cup Second Round, made
follows:
لا
today,
was 08
V
game.
That way of life might have but for the departure of City's manager Pat Beasley. While City walted before appointing a
look after the team.
The first few weeks away from the cares of League manager-new manager I was asked to
Pompey Next
What's that old saying about
Д warhorse
Norwegian Skier Wins Ladies' Slalom Title
Austria, Feb. 3.
a 24- Inger Bjoombakken, acenting battle-
telephone operator the other year-old again? There I was
the Ladles week-making team changes, ex- from Oslo, won
Slalom tille in the World way I had done for so many Alpine Ski Championships at
Bad Gastein today. years.
Forrimenting, having a so just the
Challenger For Ageless Moore
A
a
to
The Little Norwegian skier had times of 53.9 and 614
negregato soconds
106.0 seconds for the two runs, each run was over a course át 828 metres (about 575 yards), with a drop of 172 metres (about 560 feet), and included 48
There was the possibility of my staying with Bristol as long-term caretaker manager, Rio de Janeiro, Feb. 3. Ageless Archlo Moore. And, strangely, the prospect Queen's Park Fraserburgh; Hearts y Alblu Rovers; Railh America's World Light-Heavy- pleased me.
weight Boxing Champion, is was, he says, perhaps greater Turkish-Cypriot footballer, has
I felt years younger. No strain Rovers v Dundee; Ayr United or hitting for the world's all it was as if I wanted to feel than the conquest of Everest, SOGIL settled in with First
St Mirren
Dunfermline
| the old pressures.. category title.
and fasto gates, in that no comparable chai Division club Portemouth. Sur-
United Athletic; Dundee Hibernian; Third Lanark lenge had ever bean surmount-prise for Manager Eddie Lever
V Following his
Miss Bjoernbakken, sixth in three-round the joys of victory once in A Commonwealth Air Force | ext."
when his new player arrived at
Lossiemouth; Clyde v Arbroat; mockout win over Portugal's while.
the Olympic Slalom at Cortina Rugby team will leave this This book, he adds. reminds London Airport was that he had
Inverness Caledonians v Sten- Julio Neves here last Saturday, I had thought about that Mill two years ago, tald the founda- month for a five-day tour of him of the illustrations of on broug
brought his bride of three
Como, Feb. 3.
housemuir; Motherwell y Par- Moore said today, "My mnie unconscious Hillary, being mons with him. Because of
Italy won the World Bridge tick Thistle; Celle V
Stiring target is to be the world's all wall job ever since it became lion of victory by establimming vacant. And after nearly a lead of 13 secbrids - over tha The team is made up from | dragged, hand over hand by Raradon, the new man has been Championships here today by Albion: Kilmarnock v Vale of category champion”
quarter of a century as manager field on her first course, alrmen serving with the Royal rope, to the summit of Everest nicknamed "Sonny" and his wife beating the United States by 200 Leitun; Forfar Athletle
of Air Force, the ROYAL
London conquering Tensing (who Goren has been named "Gazelle," to 174 points in the triangular Rangers; Falkirk v St Johnstone:
The champion, who leaves of Charlton the prospect tralian Air Force, and the had no such notion); which Portsmouth beat Blackpool for contest.
Brechin City or. Montrose v hero tomorrow for the Unite again taking over a Royal New Zealand Air Force adorned the triumphal arches his signature because Supt. 1.
The United States was second Buckio Thiriie; Morton v Abar. † States, 'wald his next chailemine / club was of course at the back Putz Frandi 27. In Singapore.-Router.
along the road as we returned Saunders, late of the City Police, and Argentine third.
deen; Queen of the Bouth v for the light heavyweight in of my mind. to Kathmandu ́four yours àgo, is now
The United States defeated Strafarer, Matches will be play would probably be. Britain's stationed in Cyprus "Thus lesser men will ever vehere "Sonny"
also
Pomyoy. a the Argenting 255 points to 108ed on Saturday, February 16- Yolande Wos seek to their
QWTL advantage, policeman,
-France-Presse.
Borneo.
Aus-by
NOTICE
:
HONG HONG OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE SOCIETY
The Annual Cricket Match of the above Society ds to be held at the Hong Kong Cric- ket Club on Sunday, 16th February at 12 Noon.
Will any member of either University not necessarily a member of the Suclety who wishes to play please inform one of the following
G. T. ROWE Tel. 39043-Ext. 28 Oxford P. V. DODGE Tel. 59247
Cambridge
TUE GAMBOLS
GEORGE, CAN I HAVE THAT PIECE OF THE PAPERZ
Reuter,
by Barry Applebyg
WHY DO YOU ALWAYG WANT THE PART FMI READING ?)
DON'T KNOW, DARLING)
-UNLESS ITS BECAUSE YOU'RE ALWAYS READING THE PIECE I WANTS
Presse.
-FRICO-
always bake
a better cake)
says Mr. Therm
No Illusions....
a
Runner-up for the title wES of Austria, with a total of 107.0 seconds. Third wan Anna-Mario Wasor of Switzerland, ;` with 101 seconds.
:
The othe Monday I had
Ma Brandhong Of tho call from Lllwall's chairman. Micky Purser. We went to lunch favourites, was second after the and talked it over (the Millwall Arst sun. She raised the hopes of the enthusiastic Ausländ ground is barely five miles from crowd when she speɖ towar the my home),
faster second coures in $18 I mid 1 was willing to have a reconds.
crack at goiting them away from the Fourth Division.
But within o few minutes, Miss Doernbakken came burling
I'm. under no illusions, Mil-down to clip a tenth of a smop wall's results over the last few off the Austrian's time
clinch the title. months have bean disappointing. But it is the challenge 1. And quite irrealatible.
The challenge to show. I'm nob, just a has been, to show I' {"CURY NEMA (DA) trick or two.
Another ́ Norwegian, Astrid Bandvik, a 17-year-old schpok girl, toolę fourth place with 101.9 seconds.
Reope Collier, Olympia Champion and hol
That's what matteru sadat.g of the worki lille, fell pina fia
I'm not under any fancy con- trast. There's no qual balt -
no mecurity yet the satisface,
end of the second courtu, etien hting à gate 2). Senonesidoba spood. Bha wan badly, abmicans, wDICA
·It was a dull brinde dai
tign or taklari are a tough job | was carried off on a etericher.
1
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