1957-08-10 — Page 9

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 10, 1957.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Three hats illustrating now trenda in Svend's collection for autumn-winter 1957/58.

Left: "Ible”, an off-the-1100 hat modelled Greek styles. It is in pink velvet,

on classic

Centre: "Hocha Qucus", a hai with an outstanding visor-like brim. In grey felt, it is decorated with a silver ribbon,

Right: "Lausanne", Arenos France-Presse,

#

Phrygian cap in white fell,→

EILEEN ASCROFT reports from Paris

The

GLAMOUR GOLD RUSH

Paris.

THIS is golden week in

THIS

Paria for the tip top model girls. They can camm 8,000 francs (about £8) un hour and work 16 hours out of the 24, seven days a week if they wish.

Organising this glamour gold rush is a lovely delphinium-cycd brunette with a handspan walst and a fluffy black hair-do. She

Dorian Leigh, 10

time favourite American cover girl

оле

and one of the busiest girls in Paris today. Apart from being one of Paris's top models sho runs her own photographic model agency.

"I work for

the

magazines

and newspapers," she told me, "and have 20 of the top Paris models registered with me, It has to be done is way because of a strange old clause In the Napoleonic code which makes it Illegal to deduct a percentage of a woman's salary.

One-third of Dorian's girls are French, another third Eng- Jisr and the rest German, Dutch, Italian and Swedish,

The Ca urchia rap-froam Lanvin completely Covers ihe hairline. This model, sketched, by Crosthwait, fa made from clipped blue and black ostrich feather,

|Patricia Douglas sums up the autumn-winter collections in London

GENTLE CURVES FORM. THE

NEW TREND

Twinter collation is used for an

winter collections An unbleached Scottish boucle Important coat trimmed with beaver. It is

designora ΣΓΟ specially worn over a winter print träväl notable this year for the dress. fascinating array of new

RONALD PATERSON bas unusual and

woollen been inspired by a chunky materials. These vary from Chinese bronze voso of the the bulky coating fabrics, This "Chic" line gives to the Shang-yin dynasty of 1500 B.C. which, though giving the silhouette a wide-at-the-top impression of tremendous look, helped by a slightly

shoulderline, warmth and cosiness, have dropped

tapers to a narrow hemline.

which

B new lightness, to the gossamer fine dress weight Many badices have a softly doths used for late day which prow out of the side seam. bloused effect; back boleros, dresses.

dre

are used to create the same line Shorter skirts are mostly

The result of these sofk Fimple and straight, though the handling fabrics is seen in the few exceptions fendinine line created by nearly controlled by flat pleating.

show fullness all the Top Eleven. Suttis semi-fitting rather

Paterson than

utes beautiful ciastically tailored, Coats ard Scottish tweeds of a rough tex- generously cut though they show ture but with no appearance of sumplicity of lino, Daytime harshness. Small Interesting dresses have a softness rarely check weaves in the wools show seen previously to the same trexist contrasts of black, gay extent.

and brown A dark cranberry shade in tweed introduces Almost throughout the collec- a glow tions the impression is of gentle neutrals.

of colour among the

curves. Skirts arc Father shorter than of late and waists, unaccented, are long with the emphasis on the hipbone.

الله

VICTOR STIEBEL bus pro- duced an essentially feminine line and his son "tc" suits and elegant dresses, topped by generously enfolding coats, are becoming and casy to wear.

In an outstandingly good collection MICHAEL has evolved

new silhouette which, points out, relies more on cut than En canvas The jacketa which arc broad across tho Suit Jackets in satin-smooth shoulders with sleeves mounted facecloth, tweed and black in a deep and low armhole, are worsted are semi-fitted and hip-· shart and loose above the hip- bone short; skirts are needle line, curving up slightly in front, siin. The skirts, slim and tight are the new shorter length, Jusi below the bend of the knee.

A feature of the collection is the cross drape-sometimes get acros the yoke! of a coat to tie In most of the models the in ceart ends in front, or alter- waistline is ignored completely natively across the front of or only cureonly acknowledged bodice or skit as a droped loop. by a very clight incurving. The hipline becomes the new focus

A shor semi-Atted jacket,

scene.

of fashion with low slung belly about 22 inches in length over a or banding In contrasting straight skirt 15 inches from the fabrics. Sometimes the jacket ground, is HARDY AMIES' rug- on an ensemble is replaced by a gestion for the winter fashion tuale or jumper top.

The jacket is usually high fronted with a small collar. it may be narrowly double breasted or a small tie of the material may be placed just under the bust between the centre buttons,

Among his new materials is woven woollen cloth in black and white which appears to have been knitted en giant necalies.

At LACHASSE the emphasis is again on the hipline. This is proclaimed by four sults whose jackels are cut so long as to curve over the "derrieres in a hammock shape. called the "swing" line and is carried through as well in rough tweed as it is in a fine smooth suiting.

For three he uses tweeds and such as herringbone or hopeck woollens with a broken autoce

tweeds or a basket weave,

An Interesting triad is seen in the back interest of two models, The jacket of one suit in purple wool has a wide V-shape panel created by folds of the material from the armholes meeting in the centre of the hip-hugging band to form the point of the V. A double-breasted suit in. black wool as a broad box pleat which forms a soft back panel

Michael

Rudolf

Lachassi

Bradleys

Rndoly

MICHAEL: Short wide-top jackets and shorter skirts in soft tweeds are shown, with wide hate to balance the silhouette. The effect is young and flattering and a definito swing AWAY from classically cut and padded "tailoring. LACHASSE: An Interesting new outline is introduced by the "soft swing line" which has a long loose back caught in below the hips. It is scen the new length jackets of suite with narrow skirts and also on toponata or dresses where the lower part of tho skirt falis alimly to the hem. BRADLEYS: An Associato member of the London Fashion Designtre shows honty-blonde Chinese lamb fushioned into light travel coat with a ponched back, deep patch pockets and a wide belt, ·RUDOLF: Onl of several printed woollen jersey hate schi in' the collections, which show either an upward or a sideways trend. This print is of muted autumn tints. RUDOLF: Persan lamb is again succesfully used for accessories in the suturun collections of the London fashion designers. It makes many hats of which this beret fashioned after the shape of a bishop's mitro is an

1 interesting example. The "ribbon" is in belge suede,

For instance

ho uses a new to above the hipbone, and coats wool taile in a stone belge for gently

curved round tha a three-plece ensemble of belled silhouette from shoulder to hum cardigan style topper lined with matching silk superbly suited to the line. For suit with short The materials he choos are sheen suede. honeycomb tweed are also used duvetyn makes the wrap cont A ince tweed and instance a soft gentian blue and a fine wool blue and black over a dress in finer weight, A flower print makes the over beige and brown flecked tweed blouse of a black worsted sult, makes the travel coat over a dress of soft belge wool with

The some, line is soon also in a topcoat and a matching dress where a low belt draws in the swinging back panel above the caught into the Jucket edgu. At this house the hemlines a fringed the cut in one with the lower skirt.

He shows many softly draped were noticeably longer-come back and looped in front, MICHAEL SHERARD's line

between midcalf and is soft,

the shape simple and dress in woollen materials of where a lighter weight than their ankle.

For a simple sheath dress with easy, with blouse backs and matching topcoals.

a wide boat neckline Matt has forward skirt fullness, though

Reviewing MATTLI's collec- found un

LOL] jacquard English girls are much in de- Americas, Europe and. the the shoulders seem sometimes Even CHARLES CREED has tien one vistallere the type of weave wool in a blue and lon mand because of their long legs, Dominions than only woman unnaturally squared. A tuzic set aside his usual militariness woman

admires very Bysantim pattern. height and small bones. "If a alive, with the possible excep- effect of a purple three-quarter in favour of the fashionable feminine, very elegant, though, a French girl has small bones," tion of Elizabeth Arden.

length coat in velours worn over softer outline, His sults, though - little on the roundea side. These JOHN CAVANAGH is also Dorlan tells me, "she is usually What does she say about a fine black wool day dress stil retaining a certain curves are seen throughout-in inspired by circles, ares and too short for modelling."

benullifying our facts for draws the eye to the hipline. classicism, have a more feminine küresse: with cortly rounded curve. to the extent that ho Most popular model in Paris saturm?

He features interesting Scotch appeal due in part to the novelty bodices and peglop skirts, in calls his no "Hoop-la." The at present is an Irish-American

tweeds for suits and topcoats. wools.

sults with jackets cropped short most dramatic example being in brunette, Barbara Mullen.

black wool crepe. The dress, a simple sheath, has a draped flouting panel which is looped in on are from each side of tho centre back neck to swoop in a curve round the hem of the skirt in front.

The Pose

"It is not type that decides it," according to Dorian, "but the way she poses."

*Natural and luminous by day, richly exotic at night."

Plak foundation will be brightened by vivid touches of on the carlobes and nostrils. A rouge on checks, chins and even startling change from the paje faces of the last two seasons,

"Lips," says Madanie, "will

Dorlan likes to raise the prestige of her models. "I pre te

clearly defined, almost

for them to call on photo square, with emphasis on graphers by appointment. gives them more standing."

It lower lip in the brightest

She broke off at this point to adnianish two hopeful English girls who had been breaking

this rule.

Dorian herself is still one of the most sought after models.

hore?

reds,"

the

ot

Brows will be pencilled in a circular shape and is heavily shadowed.

Madame recalls the way Jean Harlow and Joan Crawford wed to look—that's the face she

+

ARE BRITISH FASHIONS

TOO SUBTLE?

By Sarah Rothschild

LONDON fashion week is

atores. Mr

He buys British.

by an

invasion

of

Glitter is know it. Only a short time ago Why did you decide to settle intends us to don this coming over. The "Top Eleven," unique among American buyers, it was the Top Twelve. But

ruffled Hair will be casually faintly ment, as 12 I should have known wept up off the neck, sparkling American

with red or platinum

rinses,

She looked at me in astonisti-

"Paris,"

stason.

How do you dress your with, of course, forehead hang,fashion writers and "co- Gittler said. "American Buyers did not have a collection. this tweeds !

the answer... husband for the beach?

was

greatly intrigued with the Parts

ordinatora,"

Hardy

His suits, with slim, definitely shorter skirts have broadly cut- ving shoulders, A exciting javel box effect is created by a bulky dark wool topcoat with a curved shoulderline wom over a gleaming gold dress. The same effect la nepoated in a suit of Digby Morton, master of the black ribbed wool which has a tallozed mult ́ and One of the glittering blouse. "It takes a very subilo eye to tounders of the Incorporated Owen Hyde Clarke at, WORTH appreciate English fashion," Mr. Society of Fashion Designers, uses soft wools and heavy create his “ski!tlo line" back to aro

always want something exciting year.

for daytime. The bodices are Latest Collection News their discreetly tweedy or different."

And what has happened to smoothly fitting and the skirts shop window that shows thu Bag Itouff

Mr Gilter patronises only, ciegant

Mr Marion? Has he have a pegtop effect achieved by Introduced norm. kind of male beach attire for quite the prettiest autum Where are the buyers? two English couturiers,

gone out of busines? Certainly drapery and cut rather than by every figure.

·colour of Jads groen. Lois of They aro

in joyful flight and John Cavanagh, not. He finds that it is frore canvas padding and petticoats. If he is short and tubby, for hip Interest in this collection,

"Because," says Mr Gittier, lucrative designing chic shirts Winter coats in Instanco, he should wear trunks with bells slung round the top across the Channel for the they are original entirely un- for American

novelly stenographersvoedly create a cocoon silhouette with a skirt and a vertical strips of the thighs Glamorous eve Paris Collections.

Influences by Paris. As End- than refined tweeds for English with sicoves met in with fullness to give height.

ning combination is black velvet There, in the chic grey salona, lish as tea and scones."

dowagine

giving width at the top which If he is long and skinny the and satin. Mannequins brought dollars will dow as trocly us

One model which sold like

then tapers in. to the hem line, strice should go the other WAY back the long pendant jewelled champagne,

Not that the not acones in America last year

NOT THE ONLY ONE with no skirt to give him curve earrings for evening.

American buyers Werth's

was a black coat by Hardy

NORMAN HARTNELL pre- The man with the heavy top

Jean Desses. Neelding news, lavishly entertained in London Amies "So smart but Incon Morion is not alone in having many different styles and lines.

sents an interesting collection of should wear a contrasting sung with a contrasting band inserted But the trickle of dollars was spicuous," alghed Mr Gitler. let with his trunks to give the at the neek of different coloured slow.

seen this trend. Others of the There are the classic combina Another champion of English Top Eleven have how diversity-such as a trimdy tailored tweed Aguro some camouflage and material or fur. Sometimes the

Canadian grand- ing their business. skirts is split to reveal

• PALE: WORK ITUNESin, toppor aplly Only the real Adonis should underskirt which

mother Mr. Doreen Day. As Normans Hartnell designa Duet (“Safe matches tho

Bet." But he dare a bikini and only if he is insert at the neckline, Other

buyer for a large Montreal Ingerie and stockings. John shows also pouched back Jackets under 38. Elderly gentlemen points of interest werd

Why is it that the American word she has been seeing the Cavanagh_dvelgus turn.. Hardy with delļa kimya cither over a chouki indulge pininish belted lookets, with short skirt buyers won't buy British? They London collections for the last Amies and Grend have a Rowdy- dress of as a three-ploce. One patterns and refuse the tempta- and dove-tail evening dressĖS. spend millions of live in Italy, 20, years,

to-Wear collection. So hat of them in mih spray wpel veŝours" tons of brillant Florida cotions

Mir Day had just beers · ad- Victor Stiebel,

le completed by a jumper blouse Anny Blatt Is the dealgner up to 4,000 dollars for a which make them look toolish, who plancered

model, which they copy" muring some diawont twoods it Landes couture seeing 10 beli a káme and gong Wool print, hand-knitted Parts Over 60 they should sock refuge couture clothes. But it was the and sell alt over America for a Michael's through her elegant fast becsaning a financial dos. || matching the Jacket Huing,

Lorgnetic. in a one-pleco swim suit,

What is the reason? Is it that He introduces an exciting now little mohair jumper suite in her fraction of the original: palce, Hore is Peris“. beauty now ready to wear collection that

"The But in England, where they

essen.co of English The American buycra and too Long could buy an original model for clothes she sakh is that they subtle to appreciate our de- which he is some models. noteins the dynd.... Dars" with from one of the world's cosmetic caught my eye. queens, fa her: 60-odd years in and weighing only a few ounces, quarter the Fariz #peten, the are designed by gandumen to be erect fansionat. Or fat that Bottle given lush could Chri Lusins Helens any lonaced cony and extremely coffers of cells are closet the number of ladies who, world sor, Zagdish high Losion and obom poloured Farby exactly the beauty

Jadies

there is no place in the modern green smooth thwood meamble Rubenstein (alias Princes elegant and would be a packing Skacy Cliker, woleman buyer owes accord £100 for dr toner ladylike? Mi

I got the newwar... From -- Mr But Gourtelli) has", dum more

to cheam

mylolica: the wrŝosirs, cloth of the glamorise women of the

andon Express, Sarsica). for one of America's largest dwindling. And the Top Mevén,

cont it trime,

shape.

да

Ionger

COFFERS CLOSED

Couture

-(kondos Express daroios).

1957