1957-07-20 — Page 9

WEEK-END

THE CHINA MAILĮ SATURDAY, JULY 20, 1957.

WOMANSENSE

Couture At Cut Price WALKING SHOES GET

By PATRICIA DOUGLAS

Tx in the millonaire TODAY you do not have

class to wear clothes de signed by one of the top couturlers. Their prices for made-to-measure are still as high as ever but many of the designers, finding that fow women can afford to be completely "dressed" by them are turning their talents to the ready-to-wear trade.

The whole fushton plcture Za bceco circular. Why should

however elegunt and wealthy. her back- hours in Atling ground, spend

ونه

4 Woman,

rooms at her diessmaker when

go

the model departmen of her favourite Bloro and "walk into" an out superbly cut of first class male- rol and at a fruction of the cost

of the bespoko garment?

In addition, nowadays, there

are so

Average

10

few occasions

well-dressed

really wear

clothes.

for the

Woo

expensive

Too much luxury 19

an embarrassment in present- day conditions. So the runes of couturiere lessen, but the already excellent fashion in- dustry benefits,

airesdy

The couturiers, turning their talents to the market that awaits them, have either allied themselves with established wholesale house or it some cases have

ventured into the wholesale Acid Dn their own.

Among the former is Hardy Amies, whose most successful tle-up with Brenner is now m At third year. He bases his ready-to-weRT collection USI the lhes he has established in hla

previous season's couture collection. These

of Jnusi, Course, be adapted actoring to the materials which, for the ready- 10 - WOW autumn .collection of 1057,

primarily British woollens,

ure

He launched the collections in varying shades of red, using

a great deal of tweed for suits

and top cont. For two-piac ensembles, consisting

of

finely fallored dress and matching top coat, the fabrics

his

Victor ssibel

лізнице

Dighy Maton

Hardy Annie's

John Carugh

hery Mayfair."

VICTOR STIEREL: A simple tweed dress with an Interesting eross-aver neckline — a detail sten in several dressta in the collection. The boxy jacket turns the outfit into a sult for many occasions, HARDY AMIES: Many of the suits in his ready-to-wear collcollon are leamed with important blouses in fine wool. This example in rod twned bag a black wool

DIGBY MORTON: A coat in rich red tweed is com blouse, bined with a shlelwaist dress in line printed wool — a feature of this collection. JOHN CAVANAGH; Dark green; and black tweed is used for his amuistakably couture-designed suit with its, gllet, and cuffs of black Persian lamb. The fromle of the jacket are mock-buttoned, as the real fastening is concealed on the inside where the edge of the jacket fa aitaslied to the fur glet.

He uses suede finished wools

Hat

are similar though in different and woot boucle in plain weights. The line tailoring is relaxed in the mood colours for aleck suits with slim

of the present fashion, but the deft touches of detail lamps the clothes unmistakably the couture class,

John

tion with

Cavanagh:

Ris

or dresses with matching straight hip-hugging jackets. A fight Jewel tweed is

uesd for

shoulders for extra cold weather.

wannth in

Among the many interesting materials he uses is an unusual knitted wool fabric. In bright makes an poinsettia rod, it

of dresses as well as an interesting attractive cocktall skirt topped luc und black herringbone by a printed wool blouse with a design of red roses on a black

16.3

KWELI.

Deason begun a similar uszoche

Mail, whose flair is for very ground, the famow ald- fminine styles in his couture established business of Bert of collection, shows his versatility Mayfair, known especially for by designing his ready-to-wear their superb fur-trimmed inoder .coats. He has his own work.

On strictly tailored This consists almost rooms with under his direction while the collection is

being assembled.

He

collection lines.

.

One of London's

smallca couture houses, Sidan, working group, is taking Brillah fashion ocross the Channel

staff working rely of suits for which he outside any

uses tweeds in every shade and also worsted flannel for

chooses his maleriale ri and mong which supply him are

the British milis viassic style.

Cromble.

Liniou

P

H

A GLAMOUR TOUCH

London.

HERE'S news for davotees of the flat heel-country shoos are becoming elegant at last. Until now, the

woman who wanted a pair of walking shoes for theplug. sardenim, от simply going for a walk, has had to choose between baiterina style shoes, which are useless in the

rala, or thick, man-sized brogues, which fell like lead weights on your feet and look ridiculous with anything but an old tweed suit.

Bally of Switzerland, better known for their elegant court samps, have taken a look at the country shoo and umartenza 12

up. They've brought cut a range_of well- Nat-heeled styles cul

with pointed toes,

I can't think why no onơg thought of this before. A mperei ton turns an ordinary Ant-Seelce shoe into quite an elegant piece of footwear, It's as simple as that,

A theatre shoe on a fine taperdd lust has a high, curved heel and low back, is decorated with rhinestones. By Baily.

instead closed shops of satin or parade were pyjamas, 80

In good colourings and with brocade.”

popular in the 1930's and now imaginative trimmings, there' The shoe I would. mest ke destined for a big come-back new high-styled country chocs to own is an evening style in To the trousers and shirt top aro wall made and good-looking bright

added a simple, scoop. lavender-coloured satin was

putat And they're reasonably priced. with a tapered hool, amethyst necked blouse, and the

New for casual wear: minute strap etross the

floral-printed instep. was made up in boots,

cropped off at ankle Wonderful to look at, wander- cotton salin. bone belght in vivid coloured ful to wear too if you go ib Latest Idea in London for cuode, with a built-in sock of the right king of parties. Tibbed wool which peers over the top to form a sori of collar, akl-boot style. For those who want to cause a sensation there are boots in a mixture of black and off-white, fastened down the zido with black boot- buttons.

New for evening: the Poiret style shoe with an extravagani- ly curved heel, pointed toe,

"We don't believe in sandals for evening wear any

more.

hurried city workers 1,5 2 sponge-and-press service for 'The barred shoe comes back clothes. While you sit drink- with a bang-butioned straps ing coffee in a dressing-gown criss-cross Thu instey of provided by the cleaners-they practically all low-cut court will spruce

I've

up your suit for

shoes but they are straps with you, provide a shoe-shina o difference. The leather service as well. elasticland so you just clip your foot into the shoe, don't ment

The strangest beauly treat- huve to use a

found yet-the buttonhook as oxirect of beo's glands which, grandma did.

so they say, is the secret of the Quean Bec's vitality and longevity, made up into beauty cream. You smooth in into your skin overnight, and nwalt results.

NOVEL IDEAS Winners, hands down, in a Monte Carlo beachwear

said Mr Max Matier, a leading shoe style. "We are showing recent

A tailored shoe for town in dark grey calf has a panched pallern round the edge, and a buckis decoration. By Bally.

On its way-a velvet you cán actually iron. No more ugl shiny marks, no more careful steaming over a keltle of water. This new velvet can be washed and Ironed, comes up looking like now, is unaffected by rain. Starred for summer parties... With the back to frant look. bare-back dresses that swoop right down to waist level at the know are back, women in the woaring their necklaces back- to-front to help all the gap.

trickt for home A quick dressmakers comes ready packaged in London ni 2/11d a yard. It's an adhesivo back- ing fabric which can be used for lining and stiffening a skirt, giving a crisp edge to lapels, Iran it onto the wrong side of your

material and it staya there, can to washed or cleaned.

Hazel Meyrick

New Silhouettes In New

York Collections

Continental casinos. Herbert DGNERS give us women pomi-annually o

fractions

ان.

Бола

to

from

y

Pruxan

are held

Fur trims everything plenty of

dres cy for

by the couture evening

coxta. Sidon, the designer, is trimself

autumn calculation.

group of The New York Dress Originals teamed black lynx, The fashion world was much very much a European, He

They talks in terms of half- Institute.

beaver, mink of Carlisle, Galloway Reels and startled by the recent news of was born in Austria, brought up

tumoire, a belts and coats either three- Coat silhouettes run the gamut South African lamb, with tweed the retirement of Digby Morion in Holland (he is of Dutch quarter or seven-eightha length, from the films and wrapped to and fleeces in a handsome day- His new "couture-to-wear" from made-to-measure fashion, nationality) and learned his Some designers also provide only th

luxurious Dullness, time group. collection is based

he has expanded his craft firm in Berlin and then in a fraction of coverage in

Monte eve Monto Sano and Prusan Intro- mainly on instead

BHA suits, but also includes very "Couture Casuals" range to in- Paris.

ning clothes, lending an ob luged a balloon-like shape— lloed n cotton gabardino rain- clude tailored suits, coats and elegant dresses with Jackels or

His collection is startling in woman this autumn will be un-

server to quip: the best dressed coat cut straight as a pin in cat with ocelot and priced it at will a matching long coat. dresses, as well as the skirts

front but with the back puting $950. and tops will which he began its ingemilly and yet simple in

dressed."

out like a blister, but hauled in Ceoll Chapman is a ringleader is venture into the wholesale style. Одо outfit, much Half-belto show through our cenia at the hemline or waist- In the daring baring for evening

chowings, is in brilliant yellow are just as many fully helled, or applauded in his recent German suit collections although

there line.

wear. One of her boldest neck- These clothes are not in any

Most suits and many coats lines shows the bodlec opened wool with a diagonal weave. It unbeiter, and Alted loosely PATISC mass-cut दूध 10-

at feature the bracelet sleeve, loose to the waist, but laced like, a produced in his

One of hla moot work-

successful consists of a three-quarter the waistline.

fitting and ending just a few cargolet with thin, satin corda ench Toon

machinist

moduls in this new range is haa

a collarless cont aver a high- The number of three-quarter inches short of the wrist, drawn through rhinestone eye- the support of eight or nitie

wool coat made in two necked rænight dress, He uses and seven-eighths length conts Shoulders follow the natural leis, highly-skilled operators. These lengths, ofther full or three- a fine black wool for several equals the number of full length curve od the body. Collars She doesn't even bother to consist of the cutter, four, tallora quarter length. This carries a cleverly contrived cocktali, and ones in collections shown last usually are in and constructed 100 other necklines with V-

aeroso the evening dresses,

week to visiting fashion re to stand away from the neck. plunge to waist. These sho

calls The Venus dress,

side of the business over a year

agu.

to do the canvassing, the shup. double panel ing and the "building" of the

garment, and threw tailoresses

to attend to the finishing such

as the lining, the

$10

buttonholes

and other details. All work &

a team, with a presser being in

attendunco at overy step.

his

Cavanagh has designed collection with reproduction in mind.

alterations

Everything has been

made to fucilitate the

that (170 for the Scams

necessary

customer.

arc

small

often

individual placed

Bantegically, so that "casing" will not upset the balance of the garment, The dince are simple and unfussy with clover delu.

Many Jackets are fly-fastened to give a long look of enky 1tting. Skirt aro plumb straight; coutą, too, are straight hanging. An added touch of luxury is found in the charming amall fur trimminga.

At FROqTERE, Violar Bilebel shows his second wholesale collection. The prices for these clothes are very much scaled down to make them available for pny woman drossing on a alender budget. He belleves that the average, woman is far happier in simple, gateless glothes than in the fantasies that, so often get the headlineH the twice-yearly fashion

shows

THE CLAT

THAT WRAPS YOU UP

and

HOLIDAY iwimsuli with rosily slimming lines--

"thrug" towel that

can be used as a beach mat

or Fled round the shoulders

as a wrap.

The capacious beach bag. In red and orange towailing. hold

is large enough to everything you need for the beach, books, suntan iption,

tunspecs, etc.

Note the novel way of using an old straw bar, Cut two small slim in the brimmi and slow through "a

cotton handicarchist.

it

•

·Exprsu Servios),

Her "Cleo silhouette makes the beholder wonder what next. A seemingly demure bodieo has triangular. cutouts under each crm to expose most of the rib section.

Another Chaptain design is which The Etruscan silhouette,

she said a one of the earliest glamour girl fashions, prodating Grecian costumes" The Etruscan La a horizontal draping of fabric around the hipo," to give a girdle-lika cling.

Highlights of other-collections: Claira MSCHIZOli featured easy-fiting daytime cloikien to be worn either with or without belt,

nesnell showed both daytime fond, sveding" "costumes mado entirely of fur. One evening ault is of whito Indian broad- tril

The advantage to the use of fue as fabric, Branel; polated out, is this: it never noods prading.

Posligier Paulius

Trigoro carves a atralight and narrow siibouette for many of her day Uma costumes, with Jackets long enough' on "sono bult to pam Đà a tunto, She is one of several designers who like the unaven hemline, high at the front and deeply down-curved at the back --Epifact Premi

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