1957-05-18 — Page 9

Page

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, MAY 18, 1057.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

The Busiest Clothes In Your Life

Busy clothes oro basics-a plain coat, a simplo suit, aliirtwaist dress or the little black dress.

They form the backbone of the fashion trade. Here are some now versions of theso much used clothes,

By PATRICIA DOUGLAS

גווי

IN every woman's ward- fapt as few women

robe there is at least manipulate a clutch style when

:hepelng or travelling. one outfit that seems to get more wear than any of the others. It is her standby the outfit she will nearly always reach for when she

+

BICKLER how an all-wool eat in their latest collection which is likely to become favourlla with the clever 11 IN roomy

women who choose it. qing only <ut with is faced with some unusual de set into n broad Altuation, whether social or the riderline. In brief, the business. clothes she always feels "right" in.

There busy clalbes are not utt the same. They vary from one woman to another, according to her chwarter and her way of life. They are part of the weares posenal and part of has existener, Air, when the darling of her wardrobe bughos eventually to show signs of wear she is likely to 1 resentful. rargeting low atten she has

the garment and wanting it to last iniinitely

In the end she will replace Il with another similar style, the up-to-the-minste version of her pid favourite,

SUIT PERSONAL TASTE

The busy clothes are boster a plain cont, sample salt, a shirtwaist dress or the Fathlon editor's favourite, the Bitte black dress". Manufacturers pro- duce Jirm by the thousandf, they niwayu sell and they rorni the backbone of the fashion trade.

They are the styles which the elegant and well-cherred wenza can enliven with her own good luste or play down to an t- conspicuour level when the occasion demands 11.

These clothes are

rarely in brilliant colours or to unusual patterned fabrics, of which que tires too quickly. A neutral and-belge, prey irem unle dove to churcoal,

Bavy. brown or

black are the shades that do not date and are unremembered. In these tants a woman can appear again and

again with varied accessories according to the decasion.

TOP-GRADE MATERIAL

One thing such favourite outfits hove in common-they are always made of tep-end material to that they fx their shape however many into In a week or a month they may us war. For verses A title wool and wonted cloth may be used, or use of the new weal Jaregys. A favourite zoil i Heely to be in a worsted jerey or a fem twood or suiting. An all-wool volours or

flam frieze cloth is chosen for midy coats that are, vlestined for busy He.

11

A

The style of a coat which can be worn in town or in the country a co at kinds of ocentions will be simple rather that drewy. It will rely on line and not m detail for it smart effect. It should be sui-

fielently roomy to mall or a dress and for ference whi have

H

The back has mela hela by a imff-belt stung Tossely from feain to Reani The front is double breaded and thraigh plain und

and ellored 1 has character irenendous style.

This is the kind of cont that would look no quibble stepping out of an expensive cur is it country would be beardient

us

THE LITTLE SUIT

The "le" sult that makes no special demands on the wearer to the one that gets few ret periods on Its hanger. Tocty's fashing of relaxed tailoring makes the choles easy and among the most popular are 1 zemi-tied or box- Jacketed suits in worsted jersey. A mult of this kind can ba worn with a sturdy wool jumper and country accessories or, teamed with a fine blouse vinch a pretty hat, If can be worn to any surt engagement with perfect confidence.

CRAYSON, in a particularly

collection. #food

show several sults that would fit into this category. An interesting up-to-the-ininute detail la tho alight fullness introduced into the back of the jacket by soľt The gathers under the collar. skirts are lin to balance the #Buette.

now

THREE-PIECE

Another Crayson idea is add a jumper top in the sume wool and worsted material as The jacket and skirt of another style to make a three-piece.

·

∙Grayson

Marcusa

Bickler

Grayson

Red raudt

رمانی

BIARCUSA: A dress in a soft oatmeal jersey can be acces- morised to suit so many different occasions. The styling here Introduces the gently-fited look with gathers placed above and below the mlifeT. MARCUSA: No woman living in town can be without her "tittle black dress," This one in fins wool is cleverly gauged on to a front seam that runs from the crossover neckline to the hip, Black satin bows form the sophisticated trimning. GRAYSON: A firm wool and worsted fabrlo makes: the three-plece suit consisting of jacket, skirt and jumper top. It is the answer to the difficult business of dressing for many engagements on a strict budget. CRAYSON: The "easy" suit with Its comfortable box Jacket has become a firm favourite with many women. In jersey, though unlined, it is firm Chongh jake a great deal of wear. A fashion note la in the soft gathers at the nape of the neck, which give a rounded flucas to the back. BICKLER: In natural coloured, wool, thin coat, which is designed for town or travel is firmly fastened in double-berasted fashion. REMBRANDT: The now version of these famous "shirimaker" dresses has panels of clever pleating to give with to the skirt. Though it is made in a choloe of plain or novelty wool, it is shown here in a new cable check on a neutral grey ground,

s

weater that perfect, con- Adence that she is as smart as way woman in the room, not- withstanding the fact that her the dress may have cost only a third of the price of SODIL others

round her,

•

DO WOMEN REALLY WANT TO BE FLATTERED WHEN THEY ARE PAINTED?

Oh, Those Chocolate Box Portraits!

THAT

woman

traits hang in the Academy will

Want dom a think of their ancestors

of herself? A photo graphic likeness or flat tory? After looking at the exhibits at the Royal Academy's Summer Ex- hibition I would say a mix- ture of both.

Д

Gallery after gallery reveals portraits of refined ladles with the set rmilo and pearls of dentist's receptionist. If any of these portraits are desunet for posterity which I very much doubt they will turn up on a genteel type of calendar.

Consider, for Instance, Sir James Gunn's portrait of Lady Lowson, the wife of the Festival Year Lord Mayor, She seems to have stepped straight off the la of an expensive box of chocu- lates with that look of wistfu. Dresden prettiness.

I don't think it does her Justice. In real life Lady Low- son has a gay expresston, with

trace of that pained gracious-lody look #11 the portrait.

vul a

Is this how he sees herself Lady Lowson told me: "Sir James Gunn is an old friend of the family and has done four portraits of me. My husband itles this one very much,"

Amp'her portrait painter who manages to give the most eva- temporary face the look of hand-inted Victorian photo

Mr Anthony Devas. graph is Each lady-like face gazes out its gilded frame with an x- pression of pulite Inquiry.

"UNPHOTOGENIC**

Ceci

What for instanco will Lady

Fox's great-grandchildren thinke of her portrait by Norman Heppler 1 doubt if it will in

pro even a mild nostalgin for Festooned in a moribund er. Imon tulle, Lady Fox seems to be rebuking some unfortunate plintographor for taking a flash- ight photograph of her leaving some debutante dance,

Lady Fox told me that all her family think it is a very good Henessy, "I prefer a portrait which does not leave too much to the imagination. It will hang In the dining-room," she said."

PRICE OF FLATTERY

Another portraft which looks backe rather than forward for

I'M

inspiration is Annigoal's portrait of Me Watson-Armstrong reallly Mrs Watson-Armstrong is 'n vlyneious Swiss, But in the Maestro's picture she SECITIE to be trying to achieve 1 Mona Lisa fecit with an expression of Against concentrated anguish, o Leonardoish percock-blue sky, she clutches her stolt, round which every blanket silich is faithfully reproduced. Her eyes nro brimming with glycerine fears, her lips look as if the lipstick had been appiled direct- ly to the canvas,

of

The price of the fittery having a portrait in oils is high. Most portraits in the Academy Ery commissioned; top painter, ke Annigoni or Sir James Gunn, charge 1,000 guineas up- wards,

Mr

Devns is less expensive. "My official price," he told me, "Is 500 s. for an all painting with hands, but if I like some-

Woodham-Smith, body and they haven't much

money, I do it for less."

polsed

追随

Mrs the authoress rita though waiting for inspiration, Her expression seems to say: Do hurry up, I really must got jon with my work."

There is one pieturo in the Academy whose price nelther the sitter nor posterly should grudge:: Stanley Spencer's por- trait of Sibyl Williams, MBE.

I spoke to her nusband' about Hur mid: My wife kind that get (and can take) abstkutole unphotogenie. more than their foir share of think this portrait just catcher wear. For many years now tier expression, Also, it's the B variation of this style has bost portrait of an Inkston oak full of character and

Among the extüübits of realis- tie pale, English roses it stands out like some rugged English

This creates An out t that can be worn on so many occa- sland that የ። owner would need few other clothes in her wardrobe. She has nut only a nitored suit, but also a dress the jumper top can be worn inside the

been a best-seller, and women you'll ever se." waistband of

strength, But so, too, is Sibyl irt and en-ordinated by

boast with pride of the length Equally polite is Mr Devass Williams, wife of Eric Williams, leather belt) to wear at home.

of time they have wom their And a dress and jacket outfit

favourite dress, is often tho answer to the problem of dressing for a long day beginning with business and ending in a sozial oime- aphers,

+

portrait of

Anthony the decape story author. Siby! Wagner, wife of the Richmond shares her husband's love of Herald. Balanced on her chow, adventure. Last year they made she seems to be Wiinking: "Just a 12,000-mile trip by car behind how much longer do 1 tavo to the Iron Curtain. prop up my china

The Country dweller's

For the coming season these equivalent to this type of dice "shirtmaker" we designed in a is in a neutral belge or grey, cholce of three materials and in The style is softer, but all many different colours. In their simple and uncluttered so that own branded Repining, which is

A plly the Royal Academy Mes Wagner said: "Opinions portrait painters arc not as For the little back dress, one jewellery and accessories can 40 percent and 86 percent differ about whether the pop-

adventurous.

} instinctively look to MARCUS, play their part in personalising worsted and wool respectively.tralt is like me. But I would

the dress. Marcasa cater for the the colours, include most of the hang it in my house even if it portrait painted, I would prefer Personally, if I was having my who in their. MARCUSA col- lection

always

the produce

cut-of-town woman with ย rich autumn shades as well as was not because I titty is a picture that made me look like dress degant styles that combine the

in oatmeal wool jersey. the

favourite

donkey brown beautiful picture,"

a crescent moon with a plece with un The line is softly flored with tone. In tweed the base colour is Inter fashion lines

Not quite so conventional bitten out: Rather that then a andating look. Whether for slight fullness below the bust charcoal with a mixture thread Mrs Dovas's 1,000 gas, portruit Victorian chocolate box. bridge cr cocktail parties of and above the hip, the fullness of wine, lilae, turquoise blue, of Adam and Evo, looking -Uke the leisured woman who lives being controlled at the waistline and in the wool cable check the two rojoots from the Chalsen in town, or the lunch oppolat- by a broad cummerbund efferi, mired pattern is in a variety of Arts Ball.

ems of the career woman, a 'REMBRANDT's famous "shirt- colours on a dark neutral grey ds in ne black wool is an maker" dresses are also of the ground.

cabat kem of fashion.

worn

Such a dress will be three

ur Jour tlmes as pre- ution as the dress in a new button novelty material and it will give

A NEW partneedstu for your summer boildays-a coolie hat and bag to pop up your last year's dress" de milt. The list in in white, roughly glased straw; the deep, roomy bag. In moves mane ka käimmed. will, while, kesyon, to małoby, the hak,

I wonder what descendants or some of the women whese: por-

Swedish Designers Have

NOW

Done It Again!

London. the aneks presented by Swedish

on houses, was the sensible adjust

flurries

London last week. And able waistlined, rug i

Ski sweaters were as highty-

patterned and gay as ever. But they were perhaps in inch or two longer for more wannth, alid many necklines feature the short overlapping "V".

DOW and smart shape-wide it was as if a publicity mun in the front and narrow at the hud instructed the heavens back. to drop those little white Ankes at just the right mo- ment, in the right amount, in the right place.

they' Because

foll when glomerous Swedish models, dressed in ski clothes were pos- Ski jackets also were made ing in the street for London in pastels, while and blacks. photographers, It ws 10 One while jacket, of double minutes before the Swedish Swotisli waterproofed poplin, fashion show, for Autumn and sported a red slater, truck - Winter 1957–58,

ning down the siceves.

The pictures htt London's front pages,

But, with or without snow, they were worth front page news at least to fashion-vor- scious sporte-wombri.

Decoting Swedish doigters have done it again. They ro

na to boat in winter sports

and Informal clothes.

Sk) trousers, with their slim, tapered lines Have (at least temporarily) lost their days of bright solid colours. Now they aro coming out in se partels,

and occasionally, with a thin, light stripe running vertically give a longer, more tapered look,

to

· One' pair of #KI" [101STTE, was made of pastel "blue" "Swedish clastic gnbattile. The stripes, thin - and; unobtrusive, were of ju slight cha" "bhas-

Incidentally, ono feature of these trousers, and of most of

As for street dresses, the and Swedish mood was ease informallly. Few had bells, and those witch did featured belte wilde in front and narrow at the back.

Colours wäre black and tan; grey and white, tan and pastel blue, in tweeds and chocks.

Another foreign house caught the fashion spotlight In London although dlx London houses were busily showing their mut- tumn clothes of fashion experts.

It was

Madam Menguin's collection which throw' CYCTY London designer Into tho shadow last week.

The daughter of the famoda French painter, Heart Mangla

in- brought out the most dividual and handsome clothes for fashionable women I Have soon for many months. And they were all priced between 18 and 25 guiness.

Or better still a good photo-

graph - more accurate and incomparably cheaper.

-SARAH ROTHSCHILD

"Chantilly** Ey Madam Mangutele of pure wool, obooked Th violet and From Thin buble buttoning Kendarison; the barely Hip- lirtti joket,

Buat to Ham trimmed with big Her lines were not new widely spaced buttons. Actual 10000 jackets, Thego cury-melming of the coat was inside, flowing coats, penell skiria, nơ that the cost hung neatly but there was an elegance arid and easily, Individual implicity to hượ whole collection,

D

for

The Manguin colours Whereas many designers cx Autumn' run from alotry red to ngporate detail; Madan Mun black. Much of her collection guln' nearly hides it She' usts' was li mauve: ser cloths ato META. OF a: no #mig checkered tweeds, Séatch and Bastion only

allowing your dah tweeds, Bosh flannels Imagination to follow her sug for mult Coaty big and gestion through.

martiriratiirnt wool) arid mohair, Often, that detail is found in cashmere, all wool plle velour. buttons, Usually longe, and A A few were teimmed in black Ilie Autumn Winter collection" spürenly used, they seam, In Pérolan lamb, white crmino shown last week, This cream sofroepool, to distinguish the arab 'm afraid well beyond RHODDER Woor ftibu-arber*nar · Minsglith, éoléolées

" thời đó nhe nanda Walle Ono cost, for example, had mink. botty aidīts of the fruit from

JILL CAREY

43

Butions wers ured detail by Marie of London in

Its bell-boy front panel framod

by mnail-brown buttons,

F

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