1956-03-10 — Page 9

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, MARCH 10, 1956.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Empire Line Ousts The Long Torso

THE

By MARIE FONTAINE

117

נ!!

i

Paris. bound either of the same fabule THE sweater line is dead, as Be dress, as seen at Balmain, h strong contrasting colour, That IR the most as Dior, A most attractive significant fact which arises molet by the house of Fath is when one reviews the Paris

small blue and white checked wool. Its main fen- fashions for the coming

Exam

of a olim skirt, consist spring and Minnier. Intimiter sleeves, a narrow dresses, the waist is either better helt and a horizontal fuck at the burtline. A plenteri in its natural position more often, is raincil to just white starched yoke and cuff beneath the bust. In suits. the jackets are chopped off shart just benenih b waist. There is the trace of the long forzo effect fa'nese warling at the hip line. Skirts, which 14

M

the fishing touches. By way, there is a profusion of while yokea, shirt frills, cuffs mui ruckades with dowing rib-

at this house,

A

The dress and jacket enserable

slightly shorter this on the none of its popularity n

at some husen, are

usun'iy

straight for day wear 210

ויז.

--

by Navy and white

worsted in user by Iran Patou for a high-necked box-plented-either pressed diss with full skirt falling in --all round.

hox pleats all round from the

# mulching waist- wain and a frogth jacket with ellow-teng

Both jacket and shene Alerven

dend with navy.

new are little

Thin

wafsiline dresses is nehirvel by a plest, belt

Ly come shirted of beneath the draped effect just bust

are usually

Such resRES

slender and have no horizontos teckrts which stand away from

where they mounted.

Sensi !!

: url We sti me ted but nol

☆

*

Vers

The figure and which bedfor front of drown the town the back. These

are

woth cleend matching skirt at Dior, where they are entled varAPOIN n dress stress itu. or open on to In high waisÚlow, as at Lanvin,

Maggy Bouff and Paton.

Subs Tre characterised b sheries

("**** poplum Dier), a bronder shinder coils if any whicd away from the frek and are less Incidentally, the square neck red, oud rutler skirt the line with shoe-string shoulder latter are obstained by means of straps is also danppeuring and gam

deals at Bates?, Is being repiteed by o

(muz. Barnet banek Cat Madricine de

Raugh at times

neckline azal

Cat Mill) high

Bring panels firit.

Genevieve Path (nows

For instance, a slender sheath dress in block won) by

Makky Rouf with short cap shey and a deep wide V-neckline 19 Trimmed with a band of black pleated ribbon in a straight the just beneath the

bust

short sleeves.

of

Prominent In the collection: of the Paris one of two coularters, and also futured by London designers some of the

in tacir q tal-manner tors,

iri

. the

-her!, semi-fittext esthat.

131

Th

tested

A

t JUAN DESSES; The "Watteau“ plest, box pleat Extending from just above the waist to the hem at the back, raven the high-waisted look to this dress grey plek-and-plek LANVIN (CASTILLO): The latest variation on the dies and Jacket Birme is seen here in his ensemble in navy blue and white striped wool. The dress is a fall pleated skirt; the facket in short and reveals the waist. Both ties and Jacket are fastened to the left side of the centro front 1. CHRISTIAN DIOR: This is the carico -- short sleeved, loose Atting and fastened down the back. It is wom here with mateising shirt of lightweight black wool, the draped passer of which raises the waistline at the front. 4. PEAN PATOt: Navy blue is a favourite colour for coat- dresses such as this one in lightweight wool, The line straight, the waistline is discreetly indicated, and the important coltar envers the top of the CINE DE RAUCH: One of the A life white yoke fills in the dreoliete, most popular fabates this season is Gien check work, in black and grey. It was chosen by this designer for this suit with double-breasted farkri au fared, panelled skirt. Note the white ruffs and bow trimming.

5.

MADELEINE

and

ings such as pick-and-pick and the very fine wool toiles wool poplins which are dry und crisp to handle.

There's A Human Success Story Behind These

Suede Shoes With A Difference

SU

dc01

London. The business which was - UEDE shoes are making tended to be a branch depen- and nesisted by the como-back to the eng established mother heute m

pon Prague, had to be built up from dinised Bax- scratch-In spinning mill little suited to the suede, needs of a tankery. colour

The only advantage which the aw in the site brothers Uti

Installed themselves the fact

there

when they was

fashion scene this summer. But they are suede shoes with a difference, made from the new British Utopruf klid

water repellant, which is fast and abrasion resistant.

They come in all spring and summer shades, from the palest pastel to brillent blues, greens, T a vivid violet and | oth

A sudden

thunder storm, a

of mud will unexpected patch

hurt these shoes. The tell- tale white line which hat al- ways ruined suede shoes for us

part worm deep block.

Another

a number of wrap-over skirts, slim shroth dress, this Line Isy Madeleine de Mustard yellow wool

the book, a' Christian Dior they Rauch,

in navy blue wool choice of Jean Paloy for a mume their volume by the Fat insportation given to the sleeves. jersey It has high draped With coller, short sleeves, a vertical Kers Jacket with three-quarter The reafter dea, with slits up porket on each hip and a U- rierses and a slightly-gathered the side seam, is still retained Diagonal weaves, which were

Lanvin (Castillo; maries in one or hoped buttoned yoke.

two matantees, Gen- so popular last season, are still the high line on a rull

vieve Tnk Pr Introduced @abundant-particularly tight fight weight tweed bright coral

Notable Vertation ear his theme with shades of Chevids. with n

Manus self-belt rising

which are alt up the emong the feather-weights with

back 10 the shoulder n

touch above the wrist to just bene da

summery

are Glen the button the well, whrie it blades.

checks in very pale shades of The vids

skur 14 un bow.

the blue, The fabrics Invoured by

green, pink and natural. lim and

the colla131*%% Jacket Parts euturiers this season can Fine black wool is used for

te: has button to the left of the centre,

divided into two main many low-necked late afternoon categories On the one hand are and dinner dresses, particularly

Inosely-woven wools such as nt Christian Dior.

ww.dl

the whole Hospatak, CU 4*

tolle, shows 0121

Anti

naturals, malin (which

ir range of belge reminiscent regular weave

lavender of pastels (for instance, Fat-woven fabrics) and fancy mauve

yellow), and mustard ༢ !8

Farge shepherd bright blues and bright ks in tone-on-tone combina- (uch as salmon coral and rasp- On the other hand are berry). There is also much navy the pure worstedts at suit ad white and black,

are

di esses.

Boating panels

on

who

Christian Dior,

mused great interest by reviv

ing draped

swathes

Bonnel

effects on drengés,

the fabric of a grey

dress over the right ahtarliter and the right hip" to

meet Ja t

the

emphasises

effect with

it, ༢bs Lite

jde. 1

טי

☆ A

A mock bolern at the back of u

ives this

S

to a neut 151 su by Maggy Rouff in a smalt block white dogtooth patterned

the k touchi

4160

wool fabric

the high-waisted Battered panel Boating loose from there to the hem.

★ ☆

The skirt of

by

Jenn Desses In Heckel light

with

Colours include

pinks

on these

tha.

was plenty of the right kind of water available. The impor.. ance of this may be judged by the fact that today consumpion of water at the tannery is between 200,000 gallema

250,000 gallons a day.

and

DOUBLE TROUBLE

in the post after they have been There were any penty of un- we, will hver appear

Est employedi wurkeus, the Friesl new models. Brushing with a Gwemment having given the soft--yes, n soft-brush (NEVER scheme their bleng occalist a wire or rubber Brush) when anall, saken at Kilgi agh. ky, wil remove mut and leave just outside Beltost, in Nerduin ruland, whs in one of the worst depressed areas of Britain

1 that time.

the sives

cvar.

looking at guod

SECRET PROCESS The secret proces by which The sucur is brunted so make s water reguunt involves no us of resin or plastic, which meals that the JEEL can breathe Daturally-i other wonts, the

Blues CANTOL wearer's reGA.

لان

the

But even the labour problem was not so asily soived. When they had work, briore the men industry began to decline, the workers had

spinning been fax, or helping to grow it -- al far step from the processes of Larning. Many of the workels were reluctant to learn new

wern

One of the pioneers in the use ways. of this new sucat is Mr Jonn the youngs Lavanagh, one ul membera

London's porated Society ot Fashion Designer who designe clotires for the elegant Duchess engaged upon the whole process of lanning from the sorting of Kent and her young daughter, the skins imported from Nigeria, Princess

Alexandra,

When the tannry opened, in 1939, the Uitz

brothers hoped London eventually to employ 60 people, Today, they employ 400 people,

will

MODERN PROGRESS

In his new Spring and Summer other parts of the world, the re- South Africa, East Africa and Collection, he uses suede shoemoval of the hair from the pelts throughout, ail

specially dyed

to the final dyeing and fussing and designed to match, one, or

of the leather or suede 43 the The model with conitas. which

being worn.

case may be, they are Behlu these new

shoes, or rather the suede from when urey a human Success ale thade is story of two brothers who led betüre Hitler and his Nazi storm. troopers when they were threatening to overrun Czecho slovakia in 1930.

NARROW ESCAPE

It was narrow escape, They had only just found

Skills

in the Various pro- cesses are already bung pusard from father to son ainuriz the

And workers.

the alongsian facilities of the works canteen and recivation rooms, educanon- al talks

ого and flims

being started to help the workers i

ات

keep pace with modern pro- ᏌᎢᏨᏍ

The skins they process nuw sla for their winery, ended to go out to leading snoe manu- be a branch of the family bust- facturers In Bitain, Italy, nese, established in Prague singe Franit, Austria, and many other 1795, when Hitler, not content countries of Europe as well as with occupying the Sudetenlaud the United States.

han

In acendance with the Munien Kid suede has the great ede Agreement of 1938, marched the vantage of beling between ib following year into the rest of and 20 percent cheaper Czechoslovakin.

calf suede, while some of the The brothers Utitz never went best skins are ciasticwed by back to Prague.

UTA special

which process Their parents succeeded in makes them particularly useful Joining them before they were for orthopaedic purposes caught up by Hitler, but they very acceptable for the highest:

Mak were cut off from all the rest of quailly shoce. China their family and friends.

Special,

and

A SENSE OF GRACIOUS LIVING

belm Tweed is gently th while the short, ted Jucket, Fluating panels are also fea which diges slightly ni the biek. tured on either si l

is held by the waist by n derg Press Jay Madeleine de ban

the and self-buckle at Rauch. T

meet ht the back. centre hack, almost courenting

AI

Without

ולי

hing the

The straight skirt beneath. This waist, but with effects that raise model is in grey and black Glen it n number of coals showe

wool which, inektentally, revival of the redingote checke

line. fabric For popular

Desets instance, Jean Parks this season,

creates n short-waisted offert at

#

1 buttons

ONCE

is

room for

a week I like to pre- Serve It on extra large trays, table with checked cloth and Give them bowls of end to be a lady; and the with

everything napkins, me I choose for this harm (nothing is more irritating than museli, then rolla, butter, jam. trying to balance plates on folds mixture the night before, and Or make waffles, making the bit

make-believe of

1 like to of the bedclothes), and have Sunday morning,

servo with batter and syrub. appelising Tray make an event of Sunday break- some specially

Or, it they have hardy cloths and pottery. Huge Con- fast

them have hot This is one of the best ways tinental breakfast cups and small stomachs, let

frothy chocolate instead of a great deal bright butter bowls. know or get ing

muk. for a very little pleat, This of pleasure

If You've A Family For six days a week money at tails just above the waist

with hurry and nobody

te top-level, has a wide collar the back of a erat in Black and and small rounded revers, and white squared wool fabric with

also a pocket with a buttoned the new Waltrau

on either side at bust-level. hp on

Belts have returned to those dresses which have a waistline In the natural position. They arc elther in leather or take the form of wide, draped cuminer-

the back and falis freely to the breakfast is a scramble,

everyone In hem the in sketch No. 1.

Sone reals hang straight and properly dressed.

Then

BICY

Yery simply rut, whereas

on Sunday, there's a You can play others have gained fulness at delicious calm.

the gramophone in the morning, react

several Sunday

papers, wear your favourite trousers, talk for hours on the telephone, or just lol lu bed, without one uneasy glance at the

clock.

Illustrating the "Discipline Line", theme of Jean Dessea Spring, and Bammer Collection; this evening, držas.js.of.zink

a

Something a bit special in the

....If you've a family and way of Sunday breakfast can you like a lazy Sunday morning make the whole occasion even with golf or some sort of expedi- more of a pleasure. It induce on in the afternoon, then roll sense of Gracious Living breakfast and lunch together and which may no1 be Just serve it about noon. fed by the frets, but which is Don't let this mesi get too enjoyable all the same.

stodgy. Start n with fruit on strongly recommand letting fruit juice, then your hot your imagination piny round the breakfast dishes and coffee on

subject of your Sunday a hotplate on the side, then saunges and toast, Dress the Anlah with cheese and lettuce. witole meal up a bit.

The sort of coffee I'd go

If You're On Your Own ...

la

type

for

a the American, vacuum-packed because it's equally good black or white; make. It in an aluminium percolator and serv withi Jug of thin cream,

The sort of dishes would be; baked eggs; kedgerec; baked in their shelle scallope

bul-

of

ler, crumbs, ́and in aquoezo lemon; fried kidneys, bacon, and chopped apple; or omelettes, which are quick and practical for up to four people.

I once had a non-day farm house lunch In Normandy

........If you're on your own, where each person, was served

gel yourself something extra with three or four, thin, mininy special on a tmy. (Or if you've lure omelettes with different a husband who likes breakfast in filings-you could do

NOT

bed, make it two frays.)

But herbs, sweet comti, mi firimph

and so on.

1about

don't let it be the same old pot saving Iden, this one.

of ten and rack of toast.

but

Make it a French breakfast, awrally a with coffee instead of too,

ou've yanng chitaren, croissants or brioclice instead of you are pinned to the normal toast, and honey or cherry jam eating Urio-nothing je, much an instead of sharmalade.

enemy to Gracious Living as a Ör nåke it an American child. But you could at least breakfast with fruit juice, coffee, get away from the familiar and-perambled odak ond cring fubd infert, bacon all done a frying

printed silk 10 hay blessed effrot at the back, with saucepan, which I quck swan ballad

and they could

long train. --- Aganos Fra3300-】

to cobla and easy to wash up,

help to make it, and lay" the

I don't say that any meal where you do the work con achieve the total luxury of butters, sideboards, and silver chafing dishes,

But anyone's Sunday break- fost con be a reasotiable ap- proximation.

Ол

• HOW to make museil, Saturday night, mix 402. aultanas

with 2 tablespoons naked oats, just cover with boiling water and leave. Sunday morning, add 2 table- spoons brown sugar and 4 large grated unpeeled appics, a little cream, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Bient well and serve at once,

---ANNE SCOTT-JAMES

ROLEX

» Bayer's TONIC

PRESS PHOTOGRAPHS

Copies of photographs taken by the South China Marning Post, South China China Mail Staff Photo- Sunday

Post-Herald, and graphers and bh low In the Morning Post Building.

ORDERS BOOKED

Paquerette

Originals...

Made specially to the tune of wedding bells.

... a wonderful array of Bridal Cownis .... from $395

a full selection of Bridesmaid Dresses from $125

attractive beaded Bridal Crowns ......... from $35

Bridesmaid head bands .....from $15

in soft pastels

All sizes,

All new!

THIS WEEK AT

Paquerette Ltd.

16A Des Voeux Road Tel. 21-157