Page
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 1956.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
London's Leading Couturiers—The Top Twelve-Have Offered In Their Spring Collections A Choice Of Two
Lines-
WAISTLINE AND STREAMLINE
PINK
By BETTY WILSON
not
INK wools, in tones alternative Hine with waistline
clearly marked, although vivid ranging from peony, azalea and cyclamen eerssarily belted.
Throughout thin collection the walkt
where Nature meant
te pale apple blossom, cast Irony glow over the spring couture collections staged in London by the corporated satul return to belts Selety of London Fashion more Designers,
JOHN CAVANAGH--the first of these conturiers to zəruri the new spring the... begun by showing a clinging tale pink
tweed
dress
It-at the whist," Mr Hartnell declares, WORTH also us a fashion manifesto which
of waist and fuller and softer skirta; In short, a feminine, wearable. customers' collection.
Lovext
definition
Skirts Aro slightly shorter. Hardy Amlea pinpoints hems at fifteen inches from the ground.
are
to illustrate his ghy Morton's multa are also willowy Streak Line This was
levelled off at Afteen loches, worn beneath an equally senna-
Michael's
skirt-lengths cant of boldly-checked, en licat jeany pink me black 1༧ཏ༥ཡཱ!
vod boley, too, and all three de- signers balance the shorter SUS
rts by shorter jackets. Throughout the collections, with that curious unanimity of ideas that is difficult to explain per every designer works bes hind locked doors in hush-hush
thero
recurring renvy, detalla.
At the other end of the pink colouET palette, VICTOR STIEBEL
shower pale blossom pink tweed lo interpret bulky and casual travel coat. Here, na
In many other colles tum, pink was prominent.
colour
The alternative spring Is blue, which both the Queen's dressmakers
NELL and HARDY AMIES—
favour
NORMAN HART-
Hartnell's collection
(popular
every
ало
NEW DETAILS
Look out for panelled effects punctuated with vivid turquoise. In topconts, jacket backs, and This he supplements with other skirt backs, which often have from panels swinging Howel blues, such
#sapphire, fantall
elev Michael aquamarine
the hips
these where and. In the Hardy fantalls i11 many exquisitely muita, often Antes collection, interpreted in tallored fine woul
short twe tweed) and zircon. For instance, cuting the fantall Hartnell
shows
pale horizo11 inches or su from the skirt hem.
for The
derent Broken check 1t11lkel 1w༩༥ཡ;
Look blue tweed over matching
rily- bed wool jersey and introduces treatments.
and wavelet-length sleeve it havy and Inklend we
out
new
sleeve
V$Abt
up
out.
1 1
shown
thirty white coat and and team. Plenty quarter length easytt
and topcoat sleeves
of these discreet twerd the-ups which, of similar length.
are to be keverth
MAXIMUM ELEGANCE
nurow
11
a broad sator collar; the latter Rounds town at back arch slotted
through with a broad white pique bond.
Hardy Amies (kes navy blue
Top
bulk
T
and for boleros that suggest
waistlino when worn
in tweeds. Scottish worsted over streamlined dresses, Lurathen,
# Huddershelt
Top Twelve's collec-
PATERSON
MICHAEL
LACHABE
CAVANA GH
TOP LEFT: Ronald Paterson's Crescent Line-streamlined but feminine and curving.
TOP RIGHT: Michael launches the Creole Lino.
This gives top width (emphasised by a net-away nock treatment) curving down to it snugly over the hips and meet a slender skirt.
BOTTOM LEFT: Lachasse's willowy silhouette sometimes shows a act-away collar, curves into the waistline and blends fiting Jacket (often two-tiered) with narrow skirt.
BOTTOM RIGHT: After two seasons in which he starred first The Slink then The Swoop, John Cayanagh proceeds on to the Streak Line. This sums up the cany, relaxed look with curving stams which progress easily from shoulders to hips
bypassing bust and waist--to narrow hemline.
CREOLE LINE
brief width
Famous Hostess Gives Party Tips
Washington. Some other tips
WASHINGTON'S most
Don't try out new dishes
on
K
beautiful hostess and your guests you just add
"hayless tension"; one of its most successful gives this tip for party axed social areas"omcone can
givers.
J
Don't rearrange furniture into
always move a chair for him- Felt.'
Do
Be relaxed. Baroness Silveraruys, wife of The Belgian Ambassador to the
wear o long gown Mit United States, says that whether there is room." But if the party the party is at an embassy or a will be crowded, "wear a short home, the "distracted hostce is dress it won't be in the way." the worst thing that can happen Mrs Carolyn Hagner Shaw, the Lo I.
capital's unofficial social arbiter, "A hostess who is always offered somy advice for party watching the door or seems to menla. bo on alge can make her party perfectly grim for her guests," said the attractive baroness,
And,
If you're serving buffot style, have plenty of pinces for guests to "Light" with their plates,
if a hostess interrupts glasses and coffee cups. two guests in the middle of a "And da provide enough esh senterice saying, "now, you twu trays at A party," sho mid- have talked Together long United Press. enough." then "It is perfectly dreadful," she added.
Barotic Silvercruys ndvises, plan your party well and thon relax.
"Don't make your guests play {nusical chairs-let them alone (to have a good time," she said.
For oficial embassy enter- taining, she invites her guests {about three weeks
obead of time. But two weeks aro sho Indoquate for most parties,
Baroness Silvercruys, who was the widow of the into Sen. Brian
party."
on
I
BLUE KITCHEN HELPS TO
LIGHTEN CHORES
New York. TF you
breeze want to through kitchen chores, paint the kitchen all blue or all green.
She said that if the party is large enough—24 or more guests the -you cm get by with inviting two who may be fouding. They may "flod a
ground,"
she said.
common
Faber
that
then
thing-United Press.
an
McMahon of Connecticut before
Birren, colour expert, her marriage to the ambassador, believes
the cool In "mixing
retiring up the sayn guest list to some extent that's colours such as blue and green what makes
concentrated on Interesting keep attention
the
job at hand, making the the other hand If on time fly.
living
in you enjoy literally
kitchen,
all- yellow or all-rose kitchen will out the time, making you linger longer over the chores
Birron said today's kitchen But if it's a small affair, best provides more work stimulus gathered into ruffs.
drop the iden lest "they're at than grandina's did. There's Note the tew stand-away
cach other's throats and spoiling | moro bright colour in every» collars that give In the same enflection
to dress-an black wool jersey, cut achieve the longer body-line.everyone's time." work white for suring
stress a slinky, whittled wway In achleves
unbelted curving line, Topcoats ere straight, tapering the careful skirt hem with Une
V-neckline the maxim
at the down sleep
to the hem elegance In
from bulky blue wood sul!
Trentinent A in t with
gives walking back which, ke the Buy
set at shoulder blade width raight,
Brad skirt und wi
IN unmistakably sleeves (which are only a con- level. Rose pink is the sailent in its technique
tinuation of the shoulders), waist-niting jacket anished with reglure
la velour and blue, or blue Eurd the "eynsive" inckets that edged with black grosgrain. black, are introduced in Lite Dalton in to fit snugly, but
Wools and in streaky suit. casily, at the hips
weight or
or dress-weight tweeds. brief
MICHAEL: This designer WORTH: Although the waist higher
divides a collection of beautiful 15
donned the whole
whole effect 15 curves that are Highlights That make news suits into two categories: claaste of drawn-out
(in worsted tweed) and kut flattering and elegant. Notable tropleni worsted. The latter from the
with closely-fitted waist and models: white Bedford cord, makes a sleek suit
tion (in alphabetical order) are: presenting
sightly One and a
hips and used for a suit, is collared with accentuated hin now device of switching
box jacket suits which launch occlot; an elegant town pockels from jacket to skirt half inches are iopped off jacket
Creyle skirt Michael's new
Line, mule in black gabardine shows that they just show beneath barques and one inch off
stand-away Here open, hems. Belts, collars and sleeves
collar the typical long. slender but the jacket basque,
Rives curving
fitted waist, Top
with two slanting This designer uses much iron
down to vanishing treatment are sented
and width, three-quarter sleeves are pockets at either side of the grey, too. For example. he point. Flannel, hopsack
are leading daytime set into a low shoulder line, and jacket to carry the eye down- dresses up an iron grey West of erge
A cuff fold put et hip The chief colours are gure-clinging jacket fronts and wards. England worsted Hannel for fabrles.
Jacket backs din and curve kvel gives the some long line to ufternoon wear by trimming navy blue, iron grey, and rose e
down. Michael says he
was a dark lapis-blue and black both dress and jacket with lines pink.
lurred by the Junguid elegance wool suit while three staggered of faggoling.
of the Creole women when he fapped pockets, grouped at both
these suits.
sides of a JOHN CAVANAGHE: The new
jacket basque, dini yellow and tropfent lengthen a grey and white fleck- Streak Line is
colours such us melon, ed suit without detracting from achieved by streamlined, curving fruit
lime and tungerine are splashed its curving waist-imo, from which сале
andi white -shoulders to hips,
UIT. then streak among much into a narrow skirt. Suits and White, as well as
sand
dresses
shorter.
shown Topcoat tones,
impeccable collare give bulk at the top. tropical-weight worsteds. Woola introduce subtle
DIGBY MORTON: His day- weaves. Tweeds are roxy pink me look sums up that casual
which elegance or pale aquamarine.
women Inve CHARLES CREED: A beauti- been trying to achieve over the fully-tailored collection which last few sensons. Topcoats are emphasises the body Une and inspired by the eusy-fitting Introduces leather
HARDY AMIES:
Although the newest spring look is a more curving develop- ment
uf the unbeltet body Cavanagh every designer shows an
line.
SPRING HATS
two
Shown here are spring hats presented by Emma Pierron of Paris.
Above: A striking fea- thery creation for the theatre.
Below: An afternoon skull-cap fringed with satin straw. Perched on the side is a miniature wheel of ancient country cart which gives a Parisian touch-—- Agence France-Presse.
Keama
EASED TOP
Are
new
desert
in
detail-ach us One "do", which ho saw men
51
Dresses
in
Bre
more
Aun
formal
BUIL
A broad-rimmed afternoon hat of natural sizaw with black velvet crown and braid, - Agence France-PreRBO,
EILEEN ASCROFT reports from Florence
THE
CHILDREN STEAL
THE LIMELIGHT
E
Morocco. Kive piping to streamlined look to Tailored alterative Morton has another Sults. Slanting pockets or half- equally casual line; here there is give a lowered waistline casy bulk and built-in stole effect at the back. Colours; meant to knot casually. white,
red,
straight and geranium
tubes, yellow, Fabrics: wool ren, un-
with
the suggestion of a high
or, for
Florence, Only blonde among the from any country traditional wool "French tartan," waist,
Is the Ger← ja
Cala, man with
From Bedford cord, and fine barathen, occasions, introduce draped ful-HERE
#4 buyers. homely, children is 24-year-old Include
Battilocchi's enchanting straw- NORMAN
niece. Hollywood's came Gloria Swan- HARTNELL: ness. Colours
nursery touch about she viewed honey-belge
auntie's "collection son (who has her own dress Superimposing another curved berry, lichen und
the Italian collection. So with a solemn and critical eye, business) in sun glasses an outstanding
and line on clean, clear curves at and there
from the waist,
London wearing a nun's veiling dress in sables, Hartnell dress with a pleated skirt made different Norman Introduces the Tummy Line of Paisley-printed wool.
where the Big Twelve have white wool, smocked with pink
and blue with a lace-edged We crowded into the huge afternoon dresses with draped
only produced one child be embroidered collar and old white and gold ballroom of the effects in front that foll into
tween them.....six-year fashioned, white, knee-high Pitti Palace, where the shows sido fulness. Striking Hartneli
are held, to see the works old Candice, Ronald Pater, socks and shoes. models: tan and while
I called on Gattinoni the Italy's youngest designers, aon's daughter.
evening before her collection,
I found 21-year-old Umba of
blazer-
ensed in at the hips, which is worn over a slender tan worsted dress and an elegant black wool
out
with
The
behind in a marked curve..
The #tolo-still a favourito-
checked
FLATTERING Pretty mascot at Giovenelli's eight-year-old
was her
hand-woven
Page
LAST DAY of
Sale at
Paquerettes
doors open till 2 p.m. to-day-
Last minute reductions on
all remaining merchandise - Come and SEE for yourself the amazing values offered
16A Des Voeux Road #3887USTSTUS
Tel. 21-157.
Intoxication
by D'ORSAY Paris
"THE CHAMPAGNE
FRAGRANCE"
ON SALE AT
A. S. WATSON & CO., LTD. Gloucester Arcade, M.K.
CHINA EMPORIUM LTD. Quéen's Rd., C., H.K.
PENINSULA STORE
7, Hankow Rd., Kofloon.
SING SHUN.CO. 27, Nathan Rd., Kowloon.
SPECIAL SALE
ON
Dinner Time
krand
POT PIES
EACH TIN CONTENTS | Ib. 1 oz.
OLD PRICE NOW
Chicken Pot Pie
Beef Pot Pie
Basf Pot Pl
Mince Pie
Mince Pia
$4.80 $4.20 ONLY
4.80
4.20 ONLY
4.00 2.95 ONLY
Apple pie
OL
3.80 2.95 ONLY
3.80 2.95 ONLY
Peach pie
and. the
GLORIFIED STOLE
RONALD PATERSON: Crescent Line introduces a series striped straight wool jacket, of drawn-out curves, with
and found her dividing her time Rome the most interesting. He Cherry pie waistlines which are sometimes
"Candy" is well known 10 tho back but sro
between last-minute atting works with fashion buyers. Sho dropped at
attends and prompting her small son's embroidered febrics from altogether. usually overlooked crepe afternoon dress
Revers are whittled down |each opening collection
to
in a homework./ stiffened wrapround skirt lined
Paterson-designed dreas, and
island of Sardinia. Very young- almost nothing and suit jacleets with planted taffeta. Again, to lift in front and round down has a gown in every collection
looking dresses are cut pinafore
carry
the eye deceiving
or pensant style, trimmed with [named after her. vertical line, black and white
embroidered bands. In Rome, where nine of the show striped wool makes a topcoat
11 glorifica here in brilliantly- top designers are women (and niece in more formal dress.
ROMANTIC worn over a black wool dress.
with in London wool, fringed
we haven't a single grey, pleated, flannel skiri and purple, which is worn with alone), husband and bables lend high socks, white blouse and
Most attractive collection I CLASSIC SUITS
purple twood suit with curving an entertaining domestic note yellow knitted sweater,
have seen in Italy to date is by Lovely feminino sults jacket. There's a tweed jockty to elegant fashion openings. LACHASSE: Classic
domestic Fontana.
fabulous fabrica show defined waistlines, shorter cap to match this striking outli
the clothes with amusement and charm of MICHAEL BUERAHD: Do-
BABY BARDE shoulder Jackets and normal
and Arabian Nights embroidery. nursery editions, I loved to see No wonder film stars like Ava treatment while
Dantly, Michael Sherard calls non-classics
Simonette's baby. BON,
so many family women design- two-
Dunne and the waist and closely his spring collection "The Waist-
ing Kalian clothes. A mian may Gardner, Ireno
to dress Atting two-tiered jackets merge line." which is clearly marked year-old Barde, in blue velvet be clever, chie and inspired, But Linda Christian like
lawn and Ince skirts.
a with this house, Pre in every model. Half-belts are pants, white
The line was called Romantic dominant colours at this house offen introduced and when bells bloues, cartled the bride's train, he rarely manages to flatter
woman's figure.
̈nited are pink, yellow,
blue, are not added they are at cast Mama had promised him a toy I think it takes a woman to Rome, allm and closely
completed his mission design clothes beigu, grey, groent blue and indicated by inact batis,
that really
do with no balt and charming back white. Among
lovely Blue the draminent colour successfully, and had it waiting something for us. Too many of fullness to the skirt.
for him after the show. " wools Lachasse
· Hiest enlour '; '7 "iquid"amber, concentrata introduces and darkens from, equskaarine tropical worsted, a cloth seen in to sapphire, Fine twoods, for curls with her mall scissors making life dimoult and show. "
She also found time to ells the men first
Florious shade for blondes.
fabrlog. cotton lame, other collections.
example, mix blue with a streak just before he appeared, which our figure imperfections wonderful Miky looking cotton. MATTLI: Drawn-out curves of amber, navy blub wool accounted for his rather ragged, dron London Big Twelve, woven with lame dowers like
I wish we had a woman design-. in mult, and drees treatment wed for a town sull sunhed with chrysanthemum cut stress. the femininity; of these taffeta; and navy blito; and white
she would collect my mesas ekh brocade. This is definitely Fabiani, married to Simonettdy:
not a collection for the working
lower
into
narrow
navy
some
Apart from
the
оп
3.80 2.95 ONLY
NEEDS NO REFRIGERATION FAMILY SIZE, 2 TO 3 SERVINGS
IDEAL FOOD FOR YOUR PARTIES
ALSO
for hurry-up family meals for unexpected guests for porch or patio suppers
for hearty school funches
clothes, Fine box, plouts away: Jacquard tweed makes a Jenkins two daughters by his first „Areta allowance for, almart girl. In shot the majority of “Obtainable at all Loading Grocery Stores and Dapt. Stor from, beneath long jumper-type dress with frosting • panel marriage. Twelve-year-old Tit!! THE GOLDEN TOUCH Fontana a Chrammes are designed
applauded:" his diet collection. Paigal
topan. A straight. lime green' boekt. - Facecloth cont, with low-placed. VICTOR STIEBELITHIA de- She wore prednyaival, fuisan
Penskega for the Golden Girl who does twin pockets on either Hip and signar divides her collections, foto vel ful Broen all in the not rise tator lutch.
Agents; KWAN KEI HONG,
13 Connaught Road W., Hong Kong Tel. 34203.
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