1956-02-04 — Page 9

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THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 1956.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

London's Leading Couturiers—The Top Twelve-Have Offered In Their Spring Collections A Choice Of Two

Lines-

WAISTLINE AND STREAMLINE

PINK

By BETTY WILSON

not

INK wools, in tones alternative Hine with waistline

clearly marked, although vivid ranging from peony, azalea and cyclamen eerssarily belted.

Throughout thin collection the walkt

where Nature meant

te pale apple blossom, cast Irony glow over the spring couture collections staged in London by the corporated satul return to belts Selety of London Fashion more Designers,

JOHN CAVANAGH--the first of these conturiers to zəruri the new spring the... begun by showing a clinging tale pink

tweed

dress

It-at the whist," Mr Hartnell declares, WORTH also us a fashion manifesto which

of waist and fuller and softer skirta; In short, a feminine, wearable. customers' collection.

Lovext

definition

Skirts Aro slightly shorter. Hardy Amlea pinpoints hems at fifteen inches from the ground.

are

to illustrate his ghy Morton's multa are also willowy Streak Line This was

levelled off at Afteen loches, worn beneath an equally senna-

Michael's

skirt-lengths cant of boldly-checked, en licat jeany pink me black 1༧ཏ༥ཡཱ!

vod boley, too, and all three de- signers balance the shorter SUS

rts by shorter jackets. Throughout the collections, with that curious unanimity of ideas that is difficult to explain per every designer works bes hind locked doors in hush-hush

thero

recurring renvy, detalla.

At the other end of the pink colouET palette, VICTOR STIEBEL

shower pale blossom pink tweed lo interpret bulky and casual travel coat. Here, na

In many other colles tum, pink was prominent.

colour

The alternative spring Is blue, which both the Queen's dressmakers

NELL and HARDY AMIES—

favour

NORMAN HART-

Hartnell's collection

(popular

every

ало

NEW DETAILS

Look out for panelled effects punctuated with vivid turquoise. In topconts, jacket backs, and This he supplements with other skirt backs, which often have from panels swinging Howel blues, such

#sapphire, fantall

elev Michael aquamarine

the hips

these where and. In the Hardy fantalls i11 many exquisitely muita, often Antes collection, interpreted in tallored fine woul

short twe tweed) and zircon. For instance, cuting the fantall Hartnell

shows

pale horizo11 inches or su from the skirt hem.

for The

derent Broken check 1t11lkel 1w༩༥ཡ;

Look blue tweed over matching

rily- bed wool jersey and introduces treatments.

and wavelet-length sleeve it havy and Inklend we

out

new

sleeve

V$Abt

up

out.

1 1

shown

thirty white coat and and team. Plenty quarter length easytt

and topcoat sleeves

of these discreet twerd the-ups which, of similar length.

are to be keverth

MAXIMUM ELEGANCE

nurow

11

a broad sator collar; the latter Rounds town at back arch slotted

through with a broad white pique bond.

Hardy Amies (kes navy blue

Top

bulk

T

and for boleros that suggest

waistlino when worn

in tweeds. Scottish worsted over streamlined dresses, Lurathen,

# Huddershelt

Top Twelve's collec-

PATERSON

MICHAEL

LACHABE

CAVANA GH

TOP LEFT: Ronald Paterson's Crescent Line-streamlined but feminine and curving.

TOP RIGHT: Michael launches the Creole Lino.

This gives top width (emphasised by a net-away nock treatment) curving down to it snugly over the hips and meet a slender skirt.

BOTTOM LEFT: Lachasse's willowy silhouette sometimes shows a act-away collar, curves into the waistline and blends fiting Jacket (often two-tiered) with narrow skirt.

BOTTOM RIGHT: After two seasons in which he starred first The Slink then The Swoop, John Cayanagh proceeds on to the Streak Line. This sums up the cany, relaxed look with curving stams which progress easily from shoulders to hips

bypassing bust and waist--to narrow hemline.

CREOLE LINE

brief width

Famous Hostess Gives Party Tips

Washington. Some other tips

WASHINGTON'S most

Don't try out new dishes

on

K

beautiful hostess and your guests you just add

"hayless tension"; one of its most successful gives this tip for party axed social areas"omcone can

givers.

J

Don't rearrange furniture into

always move a chair for him- Felt.'

Do

Be relaxed. Baroness Silveraruys, wife of The Belgian Ambassador to the

wear o long gown Mit United States, says that whether there is room." But if the party the party is at an embassy or a will be crowded, "wear a short home, the "distracted hostce is dress it won't be in the way." the worst thing that can happen Mrs Carolyn Hagner Shaw, the Lo I.

capital's unofficial social arbiter, "A hostess who is always offered somy advice for party watching the door or seems to menla. bo on alge can make her party perfectly grim for her guests," said the attractive baroness,

And,

If you're serving buffot style, have plenty of pinces for guests to "Light" with their plates,

if a hostess interrupts glasses and coffee cups. two guests in the middle of a "And da provide enough esh senterice saying, "now, you twu trays at A party," sho mid- have talked Together long United Press. enough." then "It is perfectly dreadful," she added.

Barotic Silvercruys ndvises, plan your party well and thon relax.

"Don't make your guests play {nusical chairs-let them alone (to have a good time," she said.

For oficial embassy enter- taining, she invites her guests {about three weeks

obead of time. But two weeks aro sho Indoquate for most parties,

Baroness Silvercruys, who was the widow of the into Sen. Brian

party."

on

I

BLUE KITCHEN HELPS TO

LIGHTEN CHORES

New York. TF you

breeze want to through kitchen chores, paint the kitchen all blue or all green.

She said that if the party is large enough—24 or more guests the -you cm get by with inviting two who may be fouding. They may "flod a

ground,"

she said.

common

Faber

that

then

thing-United Press.

an

McMahon of Connecticut before

Birren, colour expert, her marriage to the ambassador, believes

the cool In "mixing

retiring up the sayn guest list to some extent that's colours such as blue and green what makes

concentrated on Interesting keep attention

the

job at hand, making the the other hand If on time fly.

living

in you enjoy literally

kitchen,

all- yellow or all-rose kitchen will out the time, making you linger longer over the chores

Birron said today's kitchen But if it's a small affair, best provides more work stimulus gathered into ruffs.

drop the iden lest "they're at than grandina's did. There's Note the tew stand-away

cach other's throats and spoiling | moro bright colour in every» collars that give In the same enflection

to dress-an black wool jersey, cut achieve the longer body-line.everyone's time." work white for suring

stress a slinky, whittled wway In achleves

unbelted curving line, Topcoats ere straight, tapering the careful skirt hem with Une

V-neckline the maxim

at the down sleep

to the hem elegance In

from bulky blue wood sul!

Trentinent A in t with

gives walking back which, ke the Buy

set at shoulder blade width raight,

Brad skirt und wi

IN unmistakably sleeves (which are only a con- level. Rose pink is the sailent in its technique

tinuation of the shoulders), waist-niting jacket anished with reglure

la velour and blue, or blue Eurd the "eynsive" inckets that edged with black grosgrain. black, are introduced in Lite Dalton in to fit snugly, but

Wools and in streaky suit. casily, at the hips

weight or

or dress-weight tweeds. brief

MICHAEL: This designer WORTH: Although the waist higher

divides a collection of beautiful 15

donned the whole

whole effect 15 curves that are Highlights That make news suits into two categories: claaste of drawn-out

(in worsted tweed) and kut flattering and elegant. Notable tropleni worsted. The latter from the

with closely-fitted waist and models: white Bedford cord, makes a sleek suit

tion (in alphabetical order) are: presenting

sightly One and a

hips and used for a suit, is collared with accentuated hin now device of switching

box jacket suits which launch occlot; an elegant town pockels from jacket to skirt half inches are iopped off jacket

Creyle skirt Michael's new

Line, mule in black gabardine shows that they just show beneath barques and one inch off

stand-away Here open, hems. Belts, collars and sleeves

collar the typical long. slender but the jacket basque,

Rives curving

fitted waist, Top

with two slanting This designer uses much iron

down to vanishing treatment are sented

and width, three-quarter sleeves are pockets at either side of the grey, too. For example. he point. Flannel, hopsack

are leading daytime set into a low shoulder line, and jacket to carry the eye down- dresses up an iron grey West of erge

A cuff fold put et hip The chief colours are gure-clinging jacket fronts and wards. England worsted Hannel for fabrles.

Jacket backs din and curve kvel gives the some long line to ufternoon wear by trimming navy blue, iron grey, and rose e

down. Michael says he

was a dark lapis-blue and black both dress and jacket with lines pink.

lurred by the Junguid elegance wool suit while three staggered of faggoling.

of the Creole women when he fapped pockets, grouped at both

these suits.

sides of a JOHN CAVANAGHE: The new

jacket basque, dini yellow and tropfent lengthen a grey and white fleck- Streak Line is

colours such us melon, ed suit without detracting from achieved by streamlined, curving fruit

lime and tungerine are splashed its curving waist-imo, from which сале

andi white -shoulders to hips,

UIT. then streak among much into a narrow skirt. Suits and White, as well as

sand

dresses

shorter.

shown Topcoat tones,

impeccable collare give bulk at the top. tropical-weight worsteds. Woola introduce subtle

DIGBY MORTON: His day- weaves. Tweeds are roxy pink me look sums up that casual

which elegance or pale aquamarine.

women Inve CHARLES CREED: A beauti- been trying to achieve over the fully-tailored collection which last few sensons. Topcoats are emphasises the body Une and inspired by the eusy-fitting Introduces leather

HARDY AMIES:

Although the newest spring look is a more curving develop- ment

uf the unbeltet body Cavanagh every designer shows an

line.

SPRING HATS

two

Shown here are spring hats presented by Emma Pierron of Paris.

Above: A striking fea- thery creation for the theatre.

Below: An afternoon skull-cap fringed with satin straw. Perched on the side is a miniature wheel of ancient country cart which gives a Parisian touch-—- Agence France-Presse.

Keama

EASED TOP

Are

new

desert

in

detail-ach us One "do", which ho saw men

51

Dresses

in

Bre

more

Aun

formal

BUIL

A broad-rimmed afternoon hat of natural sizaw with black velvet crown and braid, - Agence France-PreRBO,

EILEEN ASCROFT reports from Florence

THE

CHILDREN STEAL

THE LIMELIGHT

E

Morocco. Kive piping to streamlined look to Tailored alterative Morton has another Sults. Slanting pockets or half- equally casual line; here there is give a lowered waistline casy bulk and built-in stole effect at the back. Colours; meant to knot casually. white,

red,

straight and geranium

tubes, yellow, Fabrics: wool ren, un-

with

the suggestion of a high

or, for

Florence, Only blonde among the from any country traditional wool "French tartan," waist,

Is the Ger← ja

Cala, man with

From Bedford cord, and fine barathen, occasions, introduce draped ful-HERE

#4 buyers. homely, children is 24-year-old Include

Battilocchi's enchanting straw- NORMAN

niece. Hollywood's came Gloria Swan- HARTNELL: ness. Colours

nursery touch about she viewed honey-belge

auntie's "collection son (who has her own dress Superimposing another curved berry, lichen und

the Italian collection. So with a solemn and critical eye, business) in sun glasses an outstanding

and line on clean, clear curves at and there

from the waist,

London wearing a nun's veiling dress in sables, Hartnell dress with a pleated skirt made different Norman Introduces the Tummy Line of Paisley-printed wool.

where the Big Twelve have white wool, smocked with pink

and blue with a lace-edged We crowded into the huge afternoon dresses with draped

only produced one child be embroidered collar and old white and gold ballroom of the effects in front that foll into

tween them.....six-year fashioned, white, knee-high Pitti Palace, where the shows sido fulness. Striking Hartneli

are held, to see the works old Candice, Ronald Pater, socks and shoes. models: tan and while

I called on Gattinoni the Italy's youngest designers, aon's daughter.

evening before her collection,

I found 21-year-old Umba of

blazer-

ensed in at the hips, which is worn over a slender tan worsted dress and an elegant black wool

out

with

The

behind in a marked curve..

The #tolo-still a favourito-

checked

FLATTERING Pretty mascot at Giovenelli's eight-year-old

was her

hand-woven

Page

LAST DAY of

Sale at

Paquerettes

doors open till 2 p.m. to-day-

Last minute reductions on

all remaining merchandise - Come and SEE for yourself the amazing values offered

16A Des Voeux Road #3887USTSTUS

Tel. 21-157.

Intoxication

by D'ORSAY Paris

"THE CHAMPAGNE

FRAGRANCE"

ON SALE AT

A. S. WATSON & CO., LTD. Gloucester Arcade, M.K.

CHINA EMPORIUM LTD. Quéen's Rd., C., H.K.

PENINSULA STORE

7, Hankow Rd., Kofloon.

SING SHUN.CO. 27, Nathan Rd., Kowloon.

SPECIAL SALE

ON

Dinner Time

krand

POT PIES

EACH TIN CONTENTS | Ib. 1 oz.

OLD PRICE NOW

Chicken Pot Pie

Beef Pot Pie

Basf Pot Pl

Mince Pie

Mince Pia

$4.80 $4.20 ONLY

4.80

4.20 ONLY

4.00 2.95 ONLY

Apple pie

OL

3.80 2.95 ONLY

3.80 2.95 ONLY

Peach pie

and. the

GLORIFIED STOLE

RONALD PATERSON: Crescent Line introduces a series striped straight wool jacket, of drawn-out curves, with

and found her dividing her time Rome the most interesting. He Cherry pie waistlines which are sometimes

"Candy" is well known 10 tho back but sro

between last-minute atting works with fashion buyers. Sho dropped at

attends and prompting her small son's embroidered febrics from altogether. usually overlooked crepe afternoon dress

Revers are whittled down |each opening collection

to

in a homework./ stiffened wrapround skirt lined

Paterson-designed dreas, and

island of Sardinia. Very young- almost nothing and suit jacleets with planted taffeta. Again, to lift in front and round down has a gown in every collection

looking dresses are cut pinafore

carry

the eye deceiving

or pensant style, trimmed with [named after her. vertical line, black and white

embroidered bands. In Rome, where nine of the show striped wool makes a topcoat

11 glorifica here in brilliantly- top designers are women (and niece in more formal dress.

ROMANTIC worn over a black wool dress.

with in London wool, fringed

we haven't a single grey, pleated, flannel skiri and purple, which is worn with alone), husband and bables lend high socks, white blouse and

Most attractive collection I CLASSIC SUITS

purple twood suit with curving an entertaining domestic note yellow knitted sweater,

have seen in Italy to date is by Lovely feminino sults jacket. There's a tweed jockty to elegant fashion openings. LACHASSE: Classic

domestic Fontana.

fabulous fabrica show defined waistlines, shorter cap to match this striking outli

the clothes with amusement and charm of MICHAEL BUERAHD: Do-

BABY BARDE shoulder Jackets and normal

and Arabian Nights embroidery. nursery editions, I loved to see No wonder film stars like Ava treatment while

Dantly, Michael Sherard calls non-classics

Simonette's baby. BON,

so many family women design- two-

Dunne and the waist and closely his spring collection "The Waist-

ing Kalian clothes. A mian may Gardner, Ireno

to dress Atting two-tiered jackets merge line." which is clearly marked year-old Barde, in blue velvet be clever, chie and inspired, But Linda Christian like

lawn and Ince skirts.

a with this house, Pre in every model. Half-belts are pants, white

The line was called Romantic dominant colours at this house offen introduced and when bells bloues, cartled the bride's train, he rarely manages to flatter

woman's figure.

̈nited are pink, yellow,

blue, are not added they are at cast Mama had promised him a toy I think it takes a woman to Rome, allm and closely

completed his mission design clothes beigu, grey, groent blue and indicated by inact batis,

that really

do with no balt and charming back white. Among

lovely Blue the draminent colour successfully, and had it waiting something for us. Too many of fullness to the skirt.

for him after the show. " wools Lachasse

· Hiest enlour '; '7 "iquid"amber, concentrata introduces and darkens from, equskaarine tropical worsted, a cloth seen in to sapphire, Fine twoods, for curls with her mall scissors making life dimoult and show. "

She also found time to ells the men first

Florious shade for blondes.

fabrlog. cotton lame, other collections.

example, mix blue with a streak just before he appeared, which our figure imperfections wonderful Miky looking cotton. MATTLI: Drawn-out curves of amber, navy blub wool accounted for his rather ragged, dron London Big Twelve, woven with lame dowers like

I wish we had a woman design-. in mult, and drees treatment wed for a town sull sunhed with chrysanthemum cut stress. the femininity; of these taffeta; and navy blito; and white

she would collect my mesas ekh brocade. This is definitely Fabiani, married to Simonettdy:

not a collection for the working

lower

into

narrow

navy

some

Apart from

the

оп

3.80 2.95 ONLY

NEEDS NO REFRIGERATION FAMILY SIZE, 2 TO 3 SERVINGS

IDEAL FOOD FOR YOUR PARTIES

ALSO

for hurry-up family meals for unexpected guests for porch or patio suppers

for hearty school funches

clothes, Fine box, plouts away: Jacquard tweed makes a Jenkins two daughters by his first „Areta allowance for, almart girl. In shot the majority of “Obtainable at all Loading Grocery Stores and Dapt. Stor from, beneath long jumper-type dress with frosting • panel marriage. Twelve-year-old Tit!! THE GOLDEN TOUCH Fontana a Chrammes are designed

applauded:" his diet collection. Paigal

topan. A straight. lime green' boekt. - Facecloth cont, with low-placed. VICTOR STIEBELITHIA de- She wore prednyaival, fuisan

Penskega for the Golden Girl who does twin pockets on either Hip and signar divides her collections, foto vel ful Broen all in the not rise tator lutch.

Agents; KWAN KEI HONG,

13 Connaught Road W., Hong Kong Tel. 34203.

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