1955-09-17 — Page 9

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 1955.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

In their autumn-winter collections most London couturiers have designed a line meant to give that long-legged look, But they also remember the smaller person who is the least bit hippy.

The Tall Woman Will Love This Line

By BETTY WILSON

ADE for the tall girl-

verdict in the London winter fashion shows, which reveal a line meant to give that long-legged look.

Smooth-surfaced

Harturil

0

Michael Y

M that will be the overall arch have not a crap of fussy ume.)

facecloths incidentally, is something Lon- used for sleck town sulle

has not seen for a long One was a double cape rimming about them. Striped made in a bold green and black suitings-glowing with, a sub- checked wool and worn over dued richness-introduce muted suit in a new dark-grey waffle- tones of Cognac with black, weave wool, with lapels turned eucalyptus-green with charcoal- up to make a frame Inside the grey and deeply-glowing gar, cape collar, nel with tobacco-brown,

The tall woman will love it. She will be able to wear the new Junies, which are drain-pipe She will straight and beltless. want to wear Michael's Selinstar Line, which describes ironed-out, curves, or

with

Agure.

The new browns und dark charcoals make up the winter's basic colours. Next come the Of sombre greens, including eucalyptus, sage and I sober dark grey-green--the colour of

grey-green,

Limpopo River.

a Kipling's waist topping torso

tine that -moulled plunges from Just beneath a high- busifine in front, but swoop down into a low waist level he- hind

Sho will appinud Lachasse, who, showing the courage of his convletions, was introduced suits a group of tunic-topped ana tunic-like topcoats inspired by the sweep of comet (the heavenly body, not the aero- plane). These recall the Empire Line.

In fact, I predict that the all woman will love all these new lines and, if she is reed-sim, should be able to wear them all 100

in

а

wonderful topcont A Limpopo-green wool with 也 frosted Anish hod two big pockets put on the back of the

It was teamed with coul, ssumed dress nude of parch- ment-coloured wool with a

A greasy diagonal weave. raspberry and dark-green plaid wool dress had two rows of dark-green velvet slotted through low down on the hips out-in a collection which showed a dual waist con-

rol rol-Michael also included slim dress made in sensational black, white and red houndstooth

tweed with belt just at normal

not

Tweeds, fleeked with bright colours, are fatter in weave and have a far smoelher nish. Like the new brushed surface cont- Ings and smooth facecieth-type sultings, these tweeds are often allled with Persian lamb (from South West Africa), which is the London couture's favourite fur for winter.

Evening Splendour

on

very

ΠΑΝΤΟΥΝ

Matthi

Cavanash

Lachaise

WOMAN INVENTOR WHO HAS 85 PATENTS

Wants To Invent Endless

Thread

New York. 17HATEVER someone needs, Beulah invents. "Beulah" is Miss Beulah Henry, known to her asso ciates as "the lady Edison,"

is

and

Forty-four years and 85 patents ago, the creative Miss Henry descended on the Big Town with a thick southern accent - she from North Carolina.. one of her inventions snap-on umbrella frame.

New York 'took to both in a big way, and since that time, Miss Henry has de- voted her career to making life easier for the world in general.

Nicholas Minoilovich, her business partner, saya -- "Just tell Beulah about problem, and she'll solve it."

Miss Henry figured out how to make the life of a sewing

body-moulding no, with This complements intricate cut-machine operator casier by In- 蟲 bobbin-less lock- here, again, coats venting high-pinced bust, sleek moulded ting and

and midriff and hips,

skirts sometimes introduce a starding stitch sewing machine. which flare from the hipline, splash of colour such as chicken- There's a touch of the Empire yellow (this is used for a face- lines, a onda pipe stem cloth jacket with beaver alofted straight line.

through the big collar), Guards- At 4hia house the trend to man-red, or (and it's just as wards green is summed up with dramatic) snow-white, Freens which come straight out of the herb garden-mint, sage

narrow waist-level.

When a silhouette fares at the hem, or, if the hem ig straight, then burgeons out into For the evening, however,

an important cope collar up top, couturiers have thrown dis-

Charles Creed cretion to, the winds. Digby then that's the

Mushroom Line. His Morton's

collection blossomed conls nearly all have these big a from the There just isn't any room

tube-like chrysalis

cape collars and some are de- for a superfluous ounce here. line Into butterfly splendour. tachable trick that other de-

"But London designers have Norman Hartnell, in a collection

signers are

doing this vinter, remembered the other cash cus- which puts

He divides the wools he uses tomets as well. That is,

for Buckingham Palace for suits and topcoats into two the meant woman who is less than 5ft. occasions, has made an evening kinds. One (the sult Or Jacket Bin. tall, curved,

and fuchsia- dress kind) and maybe cont from violet

She added considerable cheer he calls Padlock sverd just the least bit hippy. For her coloured

and

Cross because this wool seems shaved

to the day of the drugstoru they have created easy-fitting. barred the bold plaid design

quite flat. The other is as deep

counterman by inventing a unit with casual suits and dresses

with matching sequins. 01 as a koala bear's furi this is

Jolin Cavanagh has created that has storage for both piping waists pin - pointed where

the Hartnell tradition used for slim-stalked coats In here again

in and thyme. There's a bottles one of the cuslest-to-wear lines hot and ice-cold foods. She pro- Nature meant them to be. The stitched thousands of tiny star deep soft colours. The colour green too.

in the London collections-may-- woman with that kind of shape shaped Jet sequins on a fitting for winter here is brown coffee

Following the moulded Hart- be because the waist alwaysduced a toy cow which moos and will get that swooping,

long-

jacket made of vivid citron-bean-brown or a true conker nell line, suit jackets are longer indicated. even it only by gives milk, a mannequin that legged look from the way de- yellow facecloth.

colour and is nearly always and cut to streamline the body, curve. It is smooth and flowing, talks, and typewriter key-cups signers handle skirt treatments. which tend to give the back- the most sensational new casual splashed with a touch of vivid There are lots of coat and dress unbroken by a single belt or to spare dhe nails of secretaries.

red or pink,

teams and

Mr Hartnell uses buckle. wards sweep of a butterfly's wings.

including tweed, heavy Woo! ottoman and plushy-surfaced wool coatings, Channel seaming is often used most effectively.

Big: Variety

knitted designs from Eire's Isle

The island

He showed, a

Dual Waist Control

some wonderful wools for there,

Bronze Theme

But this, she said, has been child's play compared with her newest invention-ribbon copies. A dominant theme is bronze This, she explained, is a type- - -bronze accessories, bronze

The writer attachment which pro- wool.

war. their duces four copies of an original lacquered bronze letter, without

carbon use of

Digby Morion has presented

in London in the form of hand-

knitters of Aran. have collaborated by applying The Hardy Amies line is as traditional stitches. to the new simple as the jumper line, but Actually there's a little bit long look.

it is handled so skilfully that Bursts of colour sometimes furs, bronze Wisely, he has used the trad! these apparently of everything in these new col-

simple suits break the procession of muted mannequins even course wool are different. For instance, lections-tunic dresses and suit tional unbleached

and char- fingeruils fre greens, soil browns straight uses Juckets that follow the line of 400.

harsh-surfaced dweeds. coals. In this category, there's and brush bronze highlights paper. the body and curve out over the Incket knitted in bold alternate Nothing could be more sopht-

ап enlivening wrist-length into their hair, hips; easy-tting jackets cling stripes of diamond pattern and sticated than a black Scottish jacket, swith rounded swing-

13 Sometimes the tunic line ing to the hips:

cable stitch with a plain Jumper teps:

oat tweed used to make a sult with back, which is made in start- introduced in contour-following time, and the mess of carbons,"

"It'll save the working gr dresses with high-placed Em- meal-celoured tweed

an important self-tringe-edged ingly bright Indian-pink wool, dresses which are scammed into bust-lines that differ from beautifully casual straight dress collar which is actually a de lined with black seal and worn the figure. Sult

said its inventor happily. Jackets niso Josephine's because they curve in the same pattern, and put a fachable pelerine.

over one of this designer's most follow the body line and nra in from there instead of falling cardigan-ivne jacket mitted in

Wide flat belts emphasise the sophisticated black facecloth shown with slim skirts or, oc-easier for everyone," she said, "My ambition is to make lo straight; dresses with no waist-cable stitch and outsize block-

have a gentle flare.

with her. She figures the ribbon backwards-sweeping which Worth has called the

copies will come as close as any..."

own Fantail line,

thing yet, including her gives a look of hair curler, and a new type of long-legged

to the col- grace lection

tin opener. Black and brown are the two

skirt. 註

lines to speak of: topcoats built berry stitch over another dead hipline, So do flat bands which suits, A pink wool bow perches casionally, with akints which with the drawi which is si

are curved or twisted to give on the jacket hip. that look of effortless difference.

Sults with curved lines (and,

belts introducing a

like u tube or shaped like a straight tweed dress. chrysalist topcoats with a little

Again, the muted colours Charleston Coats swing put in from shoulder- often with curved martingale make their bow for winter.

lowered Even red and black are toned At Mattll's it's the 1920 look appeared

ored down to such a degree that a models having *plenty of zip,

blade level: and redingotes.

The collections also reveal ahipline at the back)

overseas

with

red

A

ine,

Miss Henry, who resembles

new kind of subdued elegance, In Irish tweeds, wool hopsack straight, beaver-collared topcoat and sharp, racy simplick the basic colours here and they are Mac West, is locking both formal This is extremely pleasing and, or men's suiting, Suit fabrics and matching sult made of I think, it is the kind of thing include an Irish tweed in holly and black tweed have an all- hipbone, curve closely into

Many suit jackets touch buyers hope to find leaf-green just kv-surfaced over dark prune.coloured effect figure and are cut to give

Amica uses them all-black and Logother with jackets belled at cloths, Black braided frogs and the iden, ind her partner makes

in the London collections, They berry-red.

1

It in full striped facecloth

on

Vrown wool

the idea a reality.

the often mixed together, either in engineering or technical train-

a tweed mixtures" or Instead. These darkoned colours high-bocomed

by using ing. She explained that she gels have

linc. will certainly

These black braid in tweeds are new and Mr measure this winter.

of black), and a Colours are muted, with black brown and forse-gold tweed

The waist-make up his group black brald edging give a new black and brown green,

and of 'St Louis suits', which threads Introduced. Into many

and in black and red.

to town are elegance

suits, Digby Morton has also

"Been inventing since I was matched by Charleston coats'; that even the more cluded

there are weaves

several wool for evening-a

two-pieces Ronald Paterson's Step line three-eighths, Ave-eighths vivid clothes have

rich slender, supple cream Indah is another version

or which combine a long, ditting nine years old," she said. of the dual seven-eights in length.

The lady inventor generally 'blackened' look. These subdued tweed dress with decollete

These Jacket with a slender dress in- This gives waist control. tones are matched by subdued neckline twisted through surface interest, Incidentally, I gold lame, have

never scen 50 many 'quality' wools.

A

and below

the

Evening Coat In Checked Tweed stepped waistline

the

even lower,

there

a daisy-like

#

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with two-level waistline: higher than and

taper in from big shawl collars troducing the fantail movement keeps a couple of ideas ahead is a sensational at the back. One of the most She's working on one right now. Home Michael's most strik- the normal waistline in front Charleston ecat made of cap- interesting new wools in these

normal waistline phire-dyed South West African collections-a Wool

Beulah Henry says, with with ing models were capes. (This, at the back. In fact Ronald Persian lamb.

brown background mottled with far-away look in her eyes- Paterson occasionally drops the Another luxurious coat, built black like a bird's ogg—is used "I'm going to invent an end-

less thread,"United Press. For example, he shows a couple on the same chrysalis lines, is for an ensemble like this. of numbers which are finished made in peat-brown wool lined with mink. It is worn over a off with martingale belts right very slender tweed dress which under the derriere.

New British jerseys suggest in tones of brown

introduces

and white. tweed in texture and are Also in the luxury class- Lavishly used by Paterson for tapering cœnit made of very topcoals and dresses. Another smooth facecloth

a In soft topcoat made of petunia-purple mignonette-green This has д wool has a band making a yoke big show!

of effect which ties with bows on smokey-silver Persian lamb. collar made

are quite a lot of bows in this

Line) collection. Other bows perch on skirt which flares from knees or conscious. Instead of Mau the shoulder seams of a fleecy lower hip. Here skirts

An evening coat in rich shaded, blue, red and purple swood: in bold shook design cut on olavolo lines and embroidered Wžila ---poquina and .... tiny glam bondi ·By`Norman Harioill,

weave

She Takes Paris Fashions To Kikuyu Housewives

the shoulders. Actually there Michael Sherard (Flamenco THE Kikuyu women are

introduces the dramatic

all going

fashion-

are Mau oaths, the talk

much longer because ális de-

now

the

baby-blue wool coat as if hold- ing a cluster of sprats heads signer has a personal preference among the women In worked boldly below the shoulder points.

for long skirts. This fancy, plus Kenya villages is of crea- the long, seamed, beltless line tlons by Dior, Givenchy, and streamlines the models almost

Balmain. to vanishing point,

"Thunder Colours"

An effect of great luxury 1s Several of them asked 24- Victor Silebel's Bas Relief given by the use of pale woods, year-old bloode

Mts Paina line is straight, alim and flat More formal sulta are shown in Simance before she left for behind and moulded to

London: Tell us what they' the superts British wool brocades. Ogure in dront. Loosely-cut Wool lace which lots of de-wearing in Paris this season.” jackets tran out the bust and signers are using this season is And that is what she is going are built rather like middy shown in a fitting cocktail dress to do. blouses, since they are finished with flamenco hem-line. This Phing-short for Josephins off with bands round the bot is in dusky black except for is the wife of the District tom. These Jackets reach hip swathe aquamarine-blue Officer for Fort Hall, level and are worn with snow satin, which is druped in

an Mau country 50 miles north of Phina the Fashion Quicon

of 'Kenya, skirts,

X-line beneath the lace and Nairobi. She is also the local emerges in a big bow low on Community Develpment Officer. the left hi

"I've promised them I'll bring In London recently she told back the latest fashion magazines of her 85 women's clubs, part of so they can copy. the styles."

Mr Simance forms a women's (the "Maendeleo ya Wanawakty"

Tapered topcoats, offer trim mod with Important fur collars, are worn over titile sužis like there and here~es in other col- '. |lections one is inclined to bee buttons" covered with the name

Comet Line

For the Comet ling

to

•

in Mou

wool fabric, rather than in 1958 sggestion of the high (Women's Progress Movement), club by driving into the Kikuyu contrast, material.

waisted Empire look) at which are modelled on British reserve with a two-man armed escort she's good rifle, shot, Silebel calls hay sombre colour. Lachase, salts are siocic and Women's Institutes, range

She teaches the Kikuyu house- but she doesn't carry a gun and thunder colours, and smooth, with high, but effaced. that's what they are, with an revers (there are no blouses in

homecraft wives

cooking, summoning the villagers to a

"bertza" (meeting), occasional lighted nig · Casti.

of this collection), mirrower and hygiene, and sewing. ember-rod, Orange-flame or higher shoulders, and narrower, And they are learning the wow. | Indian-pitik SA

"Once I've explained, the ident For these Mring and the fashions so fast they gran sot-in oldeyes. Day dares condoem do in Owen (derignor for Lechalen) lave to be persuaded to go slow to them in Bernalll, I ad the formula

superb British roots their husbands object they're women only too anxious to join, which this desigirer uses thinks English women want navy-blue conted wool, dark not doing enough work in the I like themt, and I find, they like They are both fal-sideted and the worsted, lobella blue for oldu, jer

ma" she said, too body-fitting, Fabrics here in cloth, and smoother-surtecedow gouty to the worst Danger? I support thro clisio fine printed wools and, tweede in those two-tomm rokk wore ode-picogbottoms garmanta might be, but I've never had aeft, and supple facecloths. fure weaves which suggest on stud nothing May Blontinge any trouble in two years. Tho The Queen's my dreskneler, alleover rich monoton; Camón Bald. Now they areas like only thing the women don't likes Norman Hartnell doesn't bother these are many chevious), Europeans, creant that they like te payin” the two shilling"-year 50oarch on name to the Topooniam ille maakond batione, mtach brighter colours and, 2018. SLOWEND ON AN INTERN worbe his new althouëta. This is planning in button: “grouping. embroidery,

Sargon (heonden Exprats Served),

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