THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 1955.
PRACTICAL HOMECRAFT ✩
Dublin's Colleen Couturier
Drawing inspiration from Ireland's age-old crafts, Sybil Connolly is fast establishing Dublin as
one of the world's fashion capitals. From the looms in white- washed cottages springs the story of Irish couture, By Dudley Birks
to
Her Arst collection was born There was, however, more FOOL cloths woven
by hand in the but not without dimculty. For then mere chonce attached
instance there was a last-minute Miss Connolly's suction fame, conturies-old cot rush to make the garments, for for she
combines with her tages of Eire have been the cottage weavers
hari
left atural beauty-some would call raked to couture status in their looms to gather turf from her a true Irish colleen although America and other countries the fields: the cloth arrived late she was born in Wales to the and moreover, wan soiled both Welsh wife of an Irishman-a
to cart
Tho
by u young woman
who, by pent fumes and in transit by good business mind, a-spirit of Dublin. In,enterprise. skill, and an until four years ago, was an donkey
Mles imagination which makes her unknown buyer in a Dublin spite of these difoulties,
19 A fashion de- is Sybil Connolly's first collection gained outstanding Atore. Her name
favourable comment in the signer. Connolly and her pheno Prem
Philadelphia Fashion Her second collection was Group's meeting and a tempting menal success as an interna-
Indeed, it was Invitation from Miss Connolly tional couturier is probably more notable.
American buyers were the us bewildering to her as it this collection which led to her
recognition ma couturier. A next stapes in her designing is to her friends, Ironically, American fosision publicity career. The invitation was for collection So the buyers to break A forth. Miss Connolly had no am- agent liked the
much that she mentioned it at coming journey .to Parls by bitions to be a designer, m meeting of the Philadelphia visiting Dublin during Horse although she had studied Fashion Group few weeks Show Week to see her latest for two years in London.
Whirlwind Success
Originally her designing was Intended 10 be a lemporary capacity until A new resigner could be found for the Dublin store in which she works, Her almost overnight rise to fame compares strikingly with years of struggle for recognition by some of her eminent counter- party.
How did Miss Connolly-an attractive, tail, dark-hinired with sparkling. young woman humorous eyes-achieve this whirlwind success? Briefly, it' was by chance. Gaston Möllet, who had previously worked for Balmain in Parls, returned Canada, and left the Dublin without of Richard Alan store
a designer.
to
a
Falling in her quest to find another designer, Miss Connolly was faced with the possibility of having to close the couture department for which, as director, she had striven so hard to establish or for the time be- ing do the work herself, This,
reluctantly. somewhat
agreed to do.
she
Later.
For the woman who wants to look elegant, Minn Connolly has designed this brown and yellow tweed sult and A seven-elgliths
Jength coat.
collection. The fact that she was using a castle as the set- fing for the collection was added attraction,
more
Europe's newest capturier. Bybil Connolly has brought fame
an
05 1.
to Dublin as one of the world's fashion centres.
this Staging
than a cabaret
collection, it showed other collections in wovon by Aran Alshermen, a never occurred to her that the Beston and Montreal,
Donegal iweed garment, an visitors would buy But buy Comprising models in Irish exquisite gown embroidered they did. The scene was like tweeds and bainin (pronounced with lace made by the nuns of a noisy bargain basement. The baivneen), her collections were Carrickmacross, or perhaps function started at 8p.m. and seen by prominent people in the red flannel quilted skirt and
next day nl 3 a.m. the
the fashion world and were sold Irish wool shawl-the tradi-
many Americans were still buying.
times
clothes of over. Different fional
that great stores called for her models and character, the Irish washer-
became a big women. name in American and Cana dian fashion.
Hailed By The Press Syll Connolly
.
*
of
These and other garments, which brilliantly combine haute couture with the practical Presented in the picturesque To some extent the secret of needs of modern life arc the grand hall of an andent castle her brilliant achievements is clothes which have brought her ready made setting for her great personal belief in wool. distinction. Her usual, happy
based range of garmonis
on Many people use wool, but, as reaction is to exclaim in traditional Irish styles-this
nis in many walks of life, It is
ing Irish I lilting
brogue, "Such collection delighted the buyers the way the raw material is
carry-on!" So much that one sxecutive
ve used that counts. As she tells returned to America and spoke her friends: "We use wool a
Her gift for the creation fot modern
fashions from trade- to the head of his firm about in
In Ireland
the form of tional Irish clothes is further Miss Connolly. The outcome tweeds; also worsteds and fine illustrated astonished even the naturally wools for evening wear. A lot of her
by the magnißcence fine evening cloaks. optimistic Miss Connolly: she of my boutique stuff is wool. These was invited to present a spring too, and I am trying to do barathea capes
are based on the black worn by the collection In Philadelphla in printed wool for shirt blouses.
married
of women
Kinsale, 1953. This proved a tremen-
the "In my country
weather
County Cork. It is natural that dous success. The store bought is so bad that we used wool she should call her versions the whole collection and Miss about 80 percent of the time. Kinsale capes. Connolly, was hailed by the It would be silly for me to com- Press as a new fashion leader pete with Continental houSCS Closely following
she just try to produce the clothes which are typical of Ireland
this
Quality
need not be expensive
• Automatic
All stainless steel case Waterproof
* Shock protected
Scientifically antimagnetic
Price $140
• Same as above but with
14K gold top and stainless steel back.
Price $200
SINCE 1853
As seen in this "white- washed" Donegal hand- Woven tweed cost, Miles Connolly has romanticised one of Ireland's traditional materials.
A SUMMER
BLOUSE
BIB
WITH TUCKED
Materials:
0
OZE.
Sirdar
1 pair No.
bultons. 1 pair No. 14 needles Suitable for, and well within for collar and front edges, only, Measurements: Width all the price range of, most women, her models also reflect the round at underarm; to fit a 34" colourful landscapes of what is to 38" bust. Length from top of known as the Emerald Isle, shoulder to lower edge, before With soft greens, purples, blues hemming: 21. Length of sleeve
ore hemming: 4". before arid greys, she captures the very seam, atmosphere of Old Erin.
Tension: 8 sis. to 1".
All Hand-Finished Majestie 2-ply wool pull thus unishing at the front edge, next 10 rows. Cast off remain
purl: st. stitch; st. st. stocking stitch; tog, together; rep. repeat;
Shape shoulders: · Cast off Continue as for the left front
are completed, sts. at the beg. of each of the
Shape the Neck:-1st row: ing sis Cast off 0, K. to the end..
2nd row: Purl. 3rd row: R. 2 log. k. to the
end.
4th row: Pur!. Work 3 rows without shaping.
8th row: Work a tuck. Continue and complete to cor-
THE SLEEVES. Using 2 needles, cast on 100 sts. and work in st. st. for 2" Continze in st. st. and inc, at
4th row following until there both ends of the next and every are 124 sts. Continue without further shaping until
work measures 42" from commence- ment.
THE FRONT Using 2 needles, and NOT the Shape the top: Cast off 8 ab. beg. beginning! inc. increase; thumb method, cast on 136 sts. at the beg, of the next 2 rows, dec, decrease,
All her models are finished, Abbreviations: K. knit; p. respond with the left front. if not entirely made, by hand Her Irish seamstresses do work of Paris standard
ord and excel in the lavish embroidery with
Work in st. st. for 4", then con- then h. 2 tog, at both ends of which she loves to decorate her
THE LEFT FRONT BIB tinue in st. st. and Inc. at both each of the next 12 rows. K. 2 evening gowns. All Exquisite
Cast on 30 sta. and com- ends of the next and every 6th fog, at the beg, of every row the girls in the workroom are Irish,
and
most of them live in mencing with a k. row, work 7 row following until there are following untii, 50 sts, remain.
154 sts, Purl 1 row.
Cast of 5 sts. at the beg. of Dublin. They come as appren-rows st. st.
Next row: K. 43, slip these each of the next 6 rows. Cast tices in their teens.
off remaining sts.
Since her first successes, she has staged collections in many parts of the United States and Canada and in Australia, too. These models are worn by her own mannequins, led by beautiful sister, Judy. Both sisters admit that they always And it difcult to part with a garment..they
8th row: P. each st. tog, with the loop from behind the cor- sts. to a st. holder and leave for responding st. 4 rows bark, thus the present, cast off 68, k. to on the, the end. making a small tuck
Next row: P. 43. right side.
Next row: Knit. Next row: Purl.
Cast off 4, k. Next row: the last st., inc. in the last.
Next row: Purl.
9th row: Cast on 4, k. to the
end. her
10
would like keep them all for themselves!
Unique Models
10th row: Purl. ifth and 12th rows: 9th and 10th rows.
As the
Work 3 rows st. st. without shaping.
16th row: As the 8th row.
17th row: Knit.
.
Next row: Cast off 4, k. 'the end.
THE FRONT EDGES Left: Using No. 14 needles, cast on 20 als, and work in sti st. until strip exactly fits the
to long edge of the tucked bib.
Cast off,
Right: Using No. 14 needles, cast on 20 sts. and work in st. st. for
first 14". Make the bulionhole as follows:
to
Work 3 rows without shaping. Rep,
the last 4 rows twice, in- creasing at the end of the 1st 19th row: Cast on 4, k. to the and 7th, thus keeping the con- end.
18th row: Purl.
.
20th row: Purl. Work
3 rows . st. without shaping.
Rep. rows 10 to 23 inclusive once. (48 st.)
Next row: As the 8th row.
7 rows st. st. without
1st row: K. 8, cast off 3, k. 6,
3,
cast off k. to the end.
moro distances
2nd row: P. 5, cast on 8, p. 6, tinuity of the side shaping. (30 cast on 3, p. to the end. sts.). Keeping the centre
Continue
to match the left edge straight, continue to inc. at the front, edge, moking 5 side
5th edge of every
equal row buttonholes, there are 84 sts. Work apart. Cost off. until
The Collar: Back, to front edge.
Using No. 14. Shape side dart: 1st row: K. needles, cast on 130 sta Pro- ceed in 'st. st. and inc. at both to the last 6, turn.
of. ends of every 4th row until there are 150. Work 4. Tows and then dec. at both ends of the next and every 4th row 18, following until 130 sts. remain.
Work 3 rows and cast off,
2nd and each alternate row:
More recently Miss Connolly, who is thirty-four, has entered the realm of men's wear, too, Her work in this sphero began at Dunsany. Castle, the Irish home of Lord Dunsany. During With its white
gay a facade,
Work visit to the castle she wore
shaping. window boxes and striped awn- an off-white Irish tweed dress Sybil Connolly's Balon in the style of a monk's habli.
Rep. the last 8 rows 25 times. Purl. Sho Was naked by another the grandeur of a
Next row: Work a tuck, (30 3rd row: K. to the last
completed from Paris maison de couture with a guest if she could make a man's Lucks
com- turn. friendliness
5th row: K. to the last that is essentially dressing gown
on the
same mencement).
Lurri. she dich, attends, lines. This
and 18 Irish. She personally
Next row: Knit, Shape the Neck:-1st row: Cast off 0, p. to the end.
2nd row: Knit."
EVER BEEN LATE BECAUSE
1
YOU FORGOT to wind your
watch? It can't happen when'
1
you wear a Tissot automatic
and which can be worn inter- nationally.
why That is specialise in tweed."
I
the watch that remembers
J
to wind itself. Just set it
1
t
and your wrist motions do
the work your lingers formerly
f
did. A Tissot Automatic is
the modern watch for modern
1
I
men.
All dialt äre zet with
18K gold figuras
Tissot
Consult an authorized
Omega and
dealer who has just the watch you need
to give a lifetime of
1 pride-wearing service.
Société Suisse. Pour l'Industrie Horlogère S.A. Geneva, Switzerland.
OMEGA - 7/3301...
Combines
the final ttings of nearly all proved so successful that she the garments she designs, often now plans collections of men's making alight adaptations auit each client.
It
to garments as well.
12,
7th row: K. to the last turn.
24,
3rd row: P. 2 tog. p. to the end.
TO MAKE UP
Press all parts well, using a hot iron over a damp cloth on 9th row: K. across all sts. Continue without further the wrong side of the work. shaping unt!!, the side measures Lay the front edges, right sides the right 18" from commencement, finlah- downwards, on to ing at the side. edge.
sides of the respective tuciced
position
and
Miss Connolly, the once re-
bos should be stressed that she luctant designer,
now for does not design for the fabulous estiled down to the work
Work 3 rows without shaping, admirably few. Her models are ideal for which rhe is so
*th row: Work a tuck. look sulted. Her models have lifled
#th row: K. to the last 2 sis Shape the armhole: Cast off & bbs Tack into any woman who wants
sig, at the beg, of the next row, neatly scam on the wrong side, her name from obscurity to alk. 2 tog, feminine and elegant.
Success has not spoiled Miss list shared by the select terw 0th row: P. 2 tog, p. to the then k. 2 tog, at the side edge
out tacking throad and of
follow fold buck the edges to exactly end. Connolly, To her friends she is who create the world's fashions.
avery, alternate row "Billie and she enjoys the Moreover, Sybil Connolly's
Con meet the main garment on the 10th and 11th rows: As the ing until 18 sls, remain. creates models are unique. They come 8th and 9th rown.
tinue
without further shaping wrong side. Sulch into posi- fashion excitement tho with some of her models. Per from the heart of romantic
Work 3 rows without shaping, until the armhole measures 71⁄2" tion and on the right front, take commencement, care that each pair of button- straight from haps it is a bainin tweed sult, Ireland-straight from the col-
15th row: Work a tuck.
holes exactly t
Work the fabric for which has been tage to couture.
Rep. rows 8 to 18 Inclusive, finishing at the side edge.
thus Shape the shoulder: Cast of round the buttonholes, twice. (27 st.)
Wor! 2 tucks without shaping, sta at the bex. of the next joining back to the front in each thus finishing at the side edge.ind the alternate row following case. Join the right front edge from the st. in front of the left front edge Shape the shoulder-Working Slip the eta, in st. st. cast off 9 six. · at the holder to a needle, rejoin the at the lowest point, then pin k. wool and work opposite side the whole blb into position In beg, of each of the next 3
exactly to correspond. TOWN.
Clean Your Own Oil Paintings
Madison, Wis. paintings
be
be used not to rub’hard or flood the pleture with water,
Suds should be removed by
Oleaned at home if care uids should be removed by
is used, anys Byron Jorns, artist at the University of Wisconsin.
Lo%
the front of the blouse. Neatly Isnck-stitch on the wrong side
- THE BACK Using 2 needles, cast on 130 of the work, nicely rounding the .Press well. Join the tho sis, and proceed in st. st. for 4", corners. Continue in st. at, and ine. at shouldor seams and wot In both ends of the next and every sicaves. Join the side sorms.
collar Lengthwise, 6th row following unil there Fold the are 102 sis. Continue without with the wrong side outwards. further, shaping until the side Stitch the two open enda mak- edge measures, as the fronts to Ing neat matching points. Turn the armholes,"" :
right side out, press well, and Shape the armbredés: "Cast off mix to the neck edge of the 8 sis. at the beg, of the next 2 blouse. Turn up and hem, the rows, and then.k. 2 tog, at the lower edge of the blouse also p. to the beg, of every row following the lower edge of the sleeves. until 180erto, amain. Continue to the required depths Press Work I rows without shaping, without further, abanine, untlig, on the wrong alde. Attach with Reparows 16 18 23 inctuaire, 150 armholow monum se the buttons to 32 correspond once (60 ats.):
THE RIGHT FRONT BIB Cast on 30 sis and work the first & rows as for the left front.
9th row: Knit, 10th row: Cast on 4, p. to the clear water.
end Next apply boiled linseed oil pit and 10th rows
11th and 12(it sowe: As the with a soft, lintlow, cloth or
Work & rows without shaping. better yet, a dull Anlat mauatio
18th rows As the 8th row. varnish,
.. 17th rww Knit. For old paintings with a coat 19th row? Furl Si of varnish tami is beginning to Tingrets Knit If the picture is new and discoloury, the best method of does not have a coat of varnish,elesning die with commercial wood the surface can be washed, cleaners, Jorna maid. Most art gently with a lukewarm soap stores Buds. Joins salt, caro, alioulă. Prow.
Remove the canvas from the frame and place it on Rrofi pillow to prevent cracking the paint surface.
them United
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