THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 27, 1955.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
What Paris Did To The Fisher Girl
BEFORE
IN 1953
Starling off my Paris fashion alphabet
with..
A
It
And THE LESSON BEHIND HER NEW NAME.......ORCHID
BRING back from Paris today story with a moral for all English girls; the story of the
Most HOW Beautiful Girl' in Paris.
A
She is MONA SIMON. Her picture the right. She is pale and mysterious, long and thin, with coiled red hair and cool green eyes.
Two years ago Bona Simon was a fisher girl who lived in Brittany, lanky and long-haired, pretty but undis Ungulshed--the girl whose picture is on the left.
are. Don't try to look like the next girl.” So because she is long and pale and thin, ale makes herself look longer and paler and thinner. She uses palo make up; she coils her hair off her neck to show off her fong, thin nose and her long, thin neck; she dresses to emphasise her long, thin figure,
Today theY SAY of the io fisher girl: "She looks like an orchid. She is so different from the others"
The moral is this: In England the beauty people and the dress people have. only one standardised ideal girl in mind, and every woman is measured against
her.
One day she came to Faris and learned the French Rule of Beauty, Then she went for a job at BALEN- CIAGA (the famous designer)-aard In Egland, I suspect, Mademoiselle learned the French, Rule of Dress. In Simon would stilt took like the giel an Paris the rules are these: "Be what you the left,
ANNE EDWARD S
for Aline And now, Twenty-six Tips That Paris Taught Me from A to Z
the Paris
model girls wear
thum when they are off
duty, quite a different affair
from the A lines they wear when they are modelling the clothes the famous de- signers make,
salon, off
Once out of the come those bodies too tight to breathe.in, skirts too tight to walk in. Om go thetr Own clothes, which are just as chic a far more comfortabic.
THE DRAWING shows how two of the best-known manne quins in Paris use the French woman's talent for selecting and adapting new fashions. Lucky (right) wears a modified A line: one
Bie new Cashmere
sweaters-loose, hip length, and scarlet, with a straight skirt in charcoal grey.
DRAWN IN PARIS DY PIERRE GIMON
cream,
past
E
"I don't know what the that would bring the money his women think of it," said the way. taxi driver, "but the men like C for Coup de solell (hair brightening) the way they do it now. So many different strands are bleach ed over your head that it gives the effect of an all över lightening. It takes time, it costs money, but goodness, how pretty it is.
And sure enough, the ideas come along. sequinned shoc", gloves puler stockings, apricot in washable docskin, white and bronze pearls, ...
D
for Danish restaurant,
the new, smartest place to
me.
E for Entree which is new to
A dish of baby mushroom dipped in cug and bread- crumbs, fried in butler and served with suce tartare,
F
for Famous inst words have lunch in Paris. Which which have a special significance goes to show how easily the in Paris: "That looks a nice, Freneli fall for what is new, even to the extent of swop-
delicious ping their own stenic bearnaise for Danish sulami on bread.*
D for Dietrich, noted three times in Paris, each time in the same beige-coloured suit.
to
the
Lia (left) ignores the A line little table, eat fỗie-gras, steak, altogether, wears a white poplin and strawberries and
for Empire. An industrial shirl
full linen skirt drink cloret, coffee and brandy: Empire is hanging on with a striped in grey and white; flat and glide ki the twilight
earlet shoes; and a scarlet belt. Notre Dame floodlighted through Dior coat-tails glove many
emerald trees. Cost: £2.
facturers, stocking manufae turers, ipstick, scent, bution, umbrella, jewel, handbag, shoe and fabric manufacturers.
B
C
for Boat trips in littic glass-sided steamers which sail for Crinoline petticoats down the Selne (this used to which the girls wear under be considered very tourist stuff: their cotton skirts to make them now it is chle). You sit al a sway like a crinoline,
They were all there last week watching his shows, each hold-
little restaurant, let's go
Run dear, and Auntie."
on ahead,
train for.
the Keepwere quite suje
AFTER
IN 1955
PICTURE MY RUBIN
here, we're on a zebra crossing." named the Brigitte Bardot siyle, crowds. A story of castles and after the film star who started hunts. Rolls-Royces and dances the craze. The hair is fronded no more typically British
"He said he wanted to pragtise his English.”
G
for Girl in a corset shop settle France's who helped to
on to the face in front and then twisted up into a bun high at the back.
long-standing political grudge for Inches which against America by deliberately
are
than those films Wo get about farmers in Provence are typically. French.
ON
V
for Victorian jewellery squashing a large woman from the berline. Wherever you go coral and jet and jade-all back Wyoming into a corset that was to buy a dress in Paris, they tell in fashion. miles too small and making her, you that long skirts 13la. from buy it.
H
for Hair style the young
the ground are most elegant, W
J
for Jackets in bright colour- ing out his cap for a new idea French girls are wearing-It is ed felt which sell in the shops
FOLKLORE IN FASHION
Symbols taken from Sicilian and Sardinian folklore are among the many attractive pattern motifs of wool fabrics that are being used current Italian boutique collections.
in the
By GINA POPESINA
only were the Also very interesting in this Italian fashion collection were the full,
gored skirts in large-grained tweeds.
NOT
the
boutique collections as the fabric of which was stress- bright and sparkling as ever ed by geometric or arabesque this year, but their method patterns embroidered in thick
braids of black wool. of presentation was equally
Paisley-patterned printed wool guaranteed to attract
textiles were favoured by attention of the most Clans of Milan for tapered trews very plain blouses skirts with flowing pleats worn in black jersey and for' full with low decolicte
blouses lightweight wool jersey. PERFECT CUT
hardened fashion reporter.
For instance Emilio had three prolly mannequins skilfully bowling a big wheel from Siclan cart over the silvery carpet of the platform in the White
Hall of the Petti Palace This was to cm-
worn with
Another dosigner who turned
in Florence.
the fact that the de- to folklore for Inspiration this time from Sardinia-was Umba, who used it for the designs for hand-woven wool textiles
phasise signs on the fabrics he had used in his collection were inspired by Sicilian folklore. Big wheels lite these were printed on number of textiles.
A
Another gimmick that he used was to have the model girls carrying stender columns draped in textiles printed with a de
avoro
HAND-WOVEN
Perfect cut and fauilless malding distinguished the collec- tion of Avolio, He used much ness and simplicity of his models wool jersey and felt. The plain-
was underlined by double double-breasted scams at the
Bign based on Sicilian Monreale fastenings and armholes and on mosales. The mannequins placed the pockets and half belts. The the columns on the platform, latter were sometimes fixed and then turned gracefully round to sometimes show off the full skirts which
removable. One of the most attractive they modelled; these, incldent-
ensembles in this collection tally,
made out of the
consisted of a suit in light- same printed fabric,
weight Shetland wool thinly checked in fuchsia and green and a full, looee cost of resida from Florence green wool. Tho olongated made great use of hand-woven Jacket of the suit was edged in wool textiles for casual tailor- the plain fabric of the cont. ed clothes, combining them with The bulls of the collection at other fabrics such as tweeds, Spagnoli corgiatod of slender plaids and striped or checked tailored suite thick knitwear. Wools. Suits and overcoats were These wire designed in collaTM cut on straight, simple linca. boration with one of Italy's Two-piece ensembles had long foremost designers, thus bring- bodices and full, box-pieated ing the couture touch to clothes skirts.
Valditevere
#redcommble price.
BEAUTIFUL SKIRTS
1
Crochet edging was used 拉摩 trimming on the collars and culla of some jackets, white an Mbres showed the best knit- interesting seven-eighths length woor ensembles in any boutique Very coat was entirely hand-crochet- collection which I saw, ed in thick white wool flecked attractive was a blue and while with sparkling beads,
siriped jacket with large pockels The most wye-catching gar at the sides, accentuating the
in the collection of straight, alorisatud Vine, .ments
Myricac were home
There were very
some besurtiŸial feminine and romantic blouses sicirts in wool fabrics at Bertoli. in light wool musiin, printed in Thoy nvere trimmed'. in, a exclusive designs. These were variety of different warp-by Krimmed either by u
pleated, barels of Bootch plašil, knit- bond or by frill of loce all wear bruiding, embroidery/med round beneath the bustline, by frilled ribbons. These were giving the effect of a very short worn with’simple jersey blodere ekket. Braiding was also, used us, with novel-shaped necklinen and trimming on these blousCE,
Emilia
Mynical
Bartol
EMILIO: This dream is in midnight blue. Hght wool fabric. A sash of yellow dotted surah is slotted through the round decollato neckline and the tie ends fall to the hemline.
MYRICAE: The top sketch shows a skirt, in heavy, hand- 'woven black and white tweed embroidered with stripes of bright: knotted wool nord. This, is word with a blouse af black Jersey. The lower sitetchou show a sumando UZSUM blouse in printed woot muilin with a gõested fri sil Found
for £2 105.
K
for Kingfisher blue, the colour that every dress-designer showed..
La for
Mary Moder
for the young in heart......
sets the scene for summer with youthfully sophisti- cated dresses done with flair and distinction interpreting full skirts and slim sheaths
the long torso look and the flattering natural waistline Paris-prompted
fabrics.
Ideal for young and young-in-heart figures and budgets.
$95.00 to $195.00
Seo them at
Paquerette
16a Dos Vocux Road C.
Ltd.
Tol: 21-157
NECCHIg-zag
MADE IN ITALY
AUTOMATIC
SEWING
MACHINES
FULL RANGE OF TABLE, CABINET, PORTABLE AND HAND OPERATED MODELS.
FROM
H.K.$345
FOR
INSPECTION
AND
DEMONSTRATION
CALL AT...
LANE, CRAWFORDS
the
LARSEN & TROCK
Main Store. $55 Hennessy Rd.
for Waists, In
city which had done its darndest to make us all wear dresses with- out walsts, the local girls still nip theirs in tight.
X
for XXXXX's to
their porters of Dover, After discontented, grumbling, cross grained colleagues DYLT the Channel it is so nice to see
Left bank students them again, who wear the new Marlos
Brando haircut-brushed for- Y
ward on to the face all round.
for Y line. My advice Is
to give it a males. But if you
M for Meton-instead of a want to wear it, narrow the
slice they serve a whole mclon waist, and make the top of the
with the top sliced off and a
spoonful of port inside.
N
for New blouses which
are draped and dressy in chiffon and Jersey.
10
for Oh! for a good cup of tea. The one kitchen still that still cludes the French.
P
for Pearly nail varnisti
still the craze.
P for Pleated skirts in every variation; fine Picats, jenife Pleats, accordion Pleats, in every material from fine cotton to Amanel--and
.every Price
level too.
for: Queenies. Why is it
tha when smart French friends take you to a smart now restau- rant it always has a strictly suburban British name, like the one that has just öpesad called Queenies?
R
for Baincoats in proofed poplin palest pink or lemon yellow-which the girls woer as summer coats. ·
IS
for Sweetpers-when you buy them in Paris, the flower shopa always arrango them in a boliquet, one colour in the contre | and the others ringed, round.
B for Stoles still in fashion for day and evening.
8 for
Helf-survice at thà biứ atores--the only cheap meat I
MOLESTON and
[ found ⠀ in Paris-two
and salad, Wrebah bread wine, chocolate, gafonui, Sa..
beneath the bust and looks along day, stance T
BERTOLL "Tisla banda bë vit, blus said
for
y
Ꮓ
with a stole or a big collar.
for Zany--the only word to describe an incident at Dior's when an overworked show
journalist fainted in the heat. The models hesitated, the show was held up, and in stormed the manigorts9.
"Just look at her face," said thb man beside mc. "Sho's thinking "What's
"
dead
journalist here or there? Let the show go on!'”
MOUSON
FANS
SANDALWOOD-SILK FANS,
PLASTIC," CARVED FANS, ETC.
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that silken fragrance
she
loves
to wear
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SACRIFICE SALE ON
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