1955-08-20 — Page 9

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 20, 1956.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

An All-Purpose Ensemble

USQ

Variations on the dress-and-jacket thome ore proving unusually popular In Germany just now. They can be adapted for

in the morning, afternoon and evon cocktail time.

and in the German autumn-winiar fashion silhouette from that wear, shown in the last collection,

FOR lato

summer

Carly autumn

and an fabrics.

German women are finding great attention is being focusand the matching dress jacket ensemble

most useful addition, to their

#

In the current fabric

Janke there are two parallel trends. On the one hand, there are the

wardrobe. Introduced by nooth, grmly woven wool mate- the couturiers several sen- tials are on the other there are Pons ago, this is a fashion the soft, deep-piled wool fabrics which has met with univer- which, even to look ut, give nu

impression of warmth. sal approval and is obvious-

here to stay.

Fine Bightweight wool fables are n populer choice for there, for their weight and lose weave makes them particularly suitable for late suminer wear and yet they are warm ugh for cooler days

wer, this

ה

type ct

For day semble is designed to look like Fuit when wien in its entirety, Lut

there

with

fre many

different types of jacket which can be worn for afternoon and evers for ecek!nil wear,

While the day trees-cum-sult Is cfion very youth in char ader, becsure it tually has a very full, pleated skirt, models for the latter part of the day have much stämmer skirts and

#10 mere cphistiested and elegant in appearance,

COLOUR EMPHASIS

As regards jackets, those which

with

Shetland tweed is a great favourite. This is shown not only in plain colours, but also patterned particularly itlogonal stripes. Other pattem- ed fabrics, such as those with a Glen check design,

Elve great scope as regards styling.

NEW TWEEDS

Deep strong colour for In- stance, ruby red, sapphire blue und amethyst--are new, but black und while still abound, Particularly interesting are the liberally

a surface woof materials with

dolled with multi- coloured, raised flecks.

These may be either clearly or partially

visible, obscured by the Buffy surface of the cloth. An even gayer effect is. obtained when threads fleeked with grey

white

are introduced into the weave. Then the fabric ap-, pears to be covered with hoar frost

H

or

a fenthered and dip at the Tweeds,

In general, have on i now appearance. b in a slight curve are much Most of them look like typical favoured. Also going in popu- examples of bondspun and Jarity aire Lunic-style jackets handwoven produels from

nding away from reed-slim Scotland, whether they are pale skirts. This line, incidentally, or quite dark in colour. There was very premcently featured are ulso

tweed-type fabrics

411

Above: An elegant costume In black Wool Panama for afternoon wear, The neckline of the collarless Jacket is pointed ini front and edged with a white Batin band.

metams Sumat

GAETH MYLENBAIT

in the recent German autumn which look like Scottish plaids. striped or large squared winter collections.

pat-

Jacquard tweeds in large tern. Sometimes the patterned

A eloar diretion between variety of patterns, and nl fabrics

combine differen! madel for morning and after- mast-

most-smooth twerts in

small coloury, and somatimes different noon wear Ls emphasised effec- quiet

designs. Herringbone tones of the same colour. tively by the choice of materials pattern tweeds are enjoying a Also Important for dresses and colours. Light coloured return to favour. In tweeds are wool satins and wool jer- fabrics are used for street on with a black and white colour weys in a range of

rembles. There are many fabrics

even

a white combination, the black

altractive predo- colours including greys, brown minules and the fabrics are anet reds. Incidentally, grey and brown is a favourite colour combination this reason,

As the ensemble is being given such importance by Ge-

Cool

:

BEA costs,

Leš: A snart tailored mult worn under checked boxy

Jacket.

Delow: A cocktail, ensemble in fine black, worsted. It has s softly-curved decollete neck- line. Note the belt, resting on the hips and the way the lower part of the jacket alanda away from the skirt, tunjo-fashion.

Manny

LEASE ME @betskl

Left: A youthful outat In white wool serge with Frey stripes. The skirt is full and pleated. The jacket fasions high with an Eton Collar,

Illusion Helps

To Beat Heat

New York. stein, Dorothy Gray and EATING the heat is a Lilly Dache. They offer these mon couturiers at the moment matter of what you tips to keep you cool as a 11ghter the fabric manufacturers (LO ensem- making a speciality of produc-Wear, what you eat and julep.

Flannel is one of the foremost and taxtures

Store your stick, aerosol

A 1940 model-English style-appears in

A Russian Fashion Show

By Shelley Rohde

"ANGLISKI

Moscow. MODEL" high-

*

pitched female voice — and on to the rostrum marched a stout woman clad in 11 1940 style costume.

ກ

A commentator at Mos- cow's great House of Fashion "Dom Modelyi"

was telling a rapt au dionce including me, not so rapt - that here was sample of English fashions. The creation Was A straight, shapeless skirt, a semi- fitted hip length jacket with large padded shoulders.

I shuddered, and a young women sitting next to me turned a puzzled face and asked: "You Ilke don't really wear clothes that in England, do you?" I hurriedly assured her. "No, not these days"-ont get black looks from my friend with the high- pitched voice,

FROM BELGRADE

"Now this model,” she re- sumed, determinedly pitching her voice one lone higher, "comes from Belgrade." It was It a coat of oatmeal colour. went flop from shoulder to knee. But

there was no cne there

from Belgrade to say yea cr

nay,

For the

All around sat sturdy Russian women, with their shopping baskets, making copious notes of every line, curve, and bobble. creations themselves were not for sale. You pick your style. You note its num- ber. Then you rush downstairs and buy the pattern.

call them creations because they are thought up on Creative Day. That is the day when the team of artists at Dom Modelyi

are let loose in the streets, the parks,

the restaurants to look

for their new ideas.

AH, VALYA

with fine stripes on grund, soft melanges,

light-cl weight wool atins, frescees and

*new are the nobbly ponamas.

bouelo tweede which look like For afternIDON wear darker astrakhan, The thick, deep colcurs--and

black--are pilod type is used for the order of the day. Here again, but there Bru also various airy wool materials are weights for suits and to the fore. Particularly suitable bles,

ing fabrics in different weights drink, and how you look at for present styles, are the soli,

but which the thermometer.

The latest ligne de couture? Howing Wool georgettes and dress fabrics at the moment, together. The connecting link

So say such beauty or liquid colognes in the re- I will give it to you straight almost "weightless" worstedis, This, however, has taken a new is the patiem design or the

Their cooling from the mouth of the 13st., 5ft. With no very great changes look by the Introduction of a colouring.

authorities as Helena Rubin-frigerator.

touch then is even cooler. directrice, Madam Nadyeshda Apply cologne occasionally Treehydak.

"Coats to temples

wrists, shoulders,

are padded, at the but go straight and And frequently, soak a wad narrowing a little at the knees, of cotton in cologne and Dresses have tiny sleeves, semi- fitted waists, and full skirts. Or wipe around the hair-line. then there is our new line -- #

waist drop

almost on the hips." The rule for summer is (Anybody mention the H-line?) everything lighter. Lighter!

I found ore bright feature of weight clothes, lighter the parade: among the plumplsh. mannequins they makeup and lighter perfume middle-aged

are chosen for their stock-size or cologne scents.

measurements - was blond

Lurex, the non-tarnish metallic yarn, is revolutionising the fashion trade

THE GLITTER LOOK BRINGS GLAMOUR

London. and dry cleaned-that is some Basically, Lurex

is

sheel

the

THE glitter look has ar- thing new. And these are just aluminum sandwiched between THE

film. This rived in London. Mate- the qualities claimed for Lurex, colourless plastic

the new metalic yanı, which is plastic film seals rials with a cloth-of-gold hitting the jackpot here just alumlufum, prevents air from. gleam, metallic fabrics with now.

reaching it and so protects it the Midas touch

Although first produced in from tarnishing and from chem!- these make news here now, the United States eight years cals in dry-cleaning. The plastic Metalite threat in itself is, of 99, it is only this year being film is fixed to the aluminium by this an adhesive to which the colour course, not new. In some form produced in quantity in

added, and the pigment is aluminium then cut into threads of varying thicknesses,

or other doth wove with country.

metals has existed for centuries.

A few technical deals

*x+

its

why in which it from predecessors,

But metallic thread that plain the will not tamish, can be washed differs

Gold thread highlights the state. blue brocade which makes this, silm sheath party dress.

A thirty-man development unit in Windsor Forest handles the

side, turning instance, the additional cost is production out Hierally millions of miles only sixpence, of thread. Over twenty calours are produced, some of them bright glittering colours, pihers softer pastel shades.

So for sixty countries have booked orders--orders that could not be placed in the States because

dollar of

restrictions. One of the biggest potential markets is India, where a big demand is expected for saris

The dress houses have taken

and

the others,

Heavy foundations, pow-haired slip of a girl who wore ders and mascaras just feel her plain black beret with

perky air, whose. solid button shoes did not squeak warmer, Wear paler shades feather of rouge and lipstick: they quite as much as

the illusion of whese hipline was under 40. help create

Ah, I thought, this girl, Valya coolness. Concentrate

on Zamova, must be a

model the floral scents of per- fume and cologne..

*Dust freely with bath or talcum powder after tepid

A

real

and the others only holiday rellefs I asked her. "I am not

sho

really in this department at all,"

sald

"Actually I am in the workshop,

op, but one of the

today." models is away

So that's where the fashion personality hides-in the work-

not a cold bath shop. or shower. Keep feet more comfortable, not only by wearing well ventilated

or

it up enthusiastically. Evening shoes, but by an occasional materials here vary from quiet alcohol rub and dusting ly stripped, sheers to all-metal

and with powder. gold and surfaced cloths of silver. One of the most un usual fabrics is wool finely Shed stockings and girdlef

do either woven with metallile thread to if you can scintillate as the light catches it both without looking sloppy. For the ball dress kastratedBut wear leg makeup if gold nylon woven with so you don't have a deep tan

gold thread has been chosen. close-nting long-waisted bodice Or select one of the lighter- is heavily embroidered with weight filmler girdles, soquins, but the skirt is full and In the fashion, trade itself, simple to display the richness Miss Rubinstein suggests everyone from top couturlers in of the fabric For the sin warm tea as a beverage London, Paris and Dublin to sheath party dress, slate blue cottage weavers in Cornwall is

brocade woven with gold has Sys Interested. Christian Dior and be selected. The dress has a effect. Hardy Amies, as well as Sybil tunic top, with wide straps but Drink plenty of vitamin- Connolly, all use it in their cur- toning on to the bodice and filled fruit juices, Summer rent collections.

It brings the full glamour

treatment to all kinds of fabrics.

At the London showroom, I saw

drapery on the skirt.

or

it has a cooking

" meals should be varied. and hearty enough to meet nutri- Don't Imagine, though, that tonal needs, you will be cream brocade embroidered with Lurex is seen only on falion cooler if you skip the heavy It can be desserts and concentrate on pale gleaming roso pattern, fabrics. Far from it.

woven with Bilic

a multi combined with any fabric and

with coloured read and

any type of yarn, either fresh fruits and ices.

synthetic, Car

And above all, approach lighted with silver thread - natural ··

upholstery Umbrellas, Jamp" beat wave with the connect men. One American firm has proi shadow, rien tablecloths, media tak attitude." Don't talk about duced an ecclesiastical gold cloth ties and waistcosts, these are the heatwell, not if you can (with Vallcan approval)... and some of the things it is uted help it, anyway. Don't run another, a finu tropical sulting, for. It is also on salo by, the around at, the same pace. “You

dor embroidery. pale blue criss-crossed with

This ductalle route cor would on a winter tainly a novelty, but its makers And "think 290l."!

Cristident that it will will are

gold

which, they tell mo...

for

-- winner, ther A

First question progrede saks be my demand, ever, whet

These beauty, experts declare

is whether this mealle process novelty, hát radod. #1te Ameri- tikt layout (allow themes: Tulen

Find Kevric Lacey L Cadaver Dorothy Barkley

On a yard of cotton

ROYAL

Pilaco

MOUSON

FANS.

SANDALWOOD SILK FANS,- PLASTIC, CARVED FANE, ETC.

Dy

JUB TAI CHOON FAN FTY.

ESA QUEENS, ROGANT VANHONG KONG

Helen Whiting

Summer Romance.

beguiling as a new beau

part V neck outlined

in tucks . . dovetailing toward duo-tone leather belt to cinch a bouffant skirt, Gingham "patch" print on crease-resistant black cotton.

$9500

Pago

Paquerette Ltd.

16a Des Voeux Road C.

Of ON ON ON ON ON OF OF OF

that silken fragrance she

1

Tel: 21-157

loves

to wear

F MILOT

FABJUMELE

+

MARK.

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ESTABLISHED 1837_ -

Perfume, Lotion and Eau de Cologne

Montor

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