1954-10-30 — Page 9

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, OCTOBER · ·80, 1954.

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WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

SCHIAP WAS

A SHOCKER

IKE many n deposed

L' queen before ber, the

fabulous Schiaparelli, once the dictator of Puris fashion has turned to writ- For her ing her memoirs. suden is closed, her clienta are dressed by new draign- her extravagant

T

#d

notions no longer throw thr work of women inla

tlazy.

1

11

dark

}

* Only Schlop was both absurd sad audacious

nough to make

a hot resembling

a tomb cetiri

with a white frill

on the bone,

obtaomreitt

Anne Sharpley

was then a "strange and sense- tional sweptor." Actually it was

a very simple black one with white collar, cuffs annd big bow tie (later she was to introduce a "skoicton" design into a sweater that made the wearer took like her own X-ray!)

Bluff

That first simple sweater which she got an American buyer to order forty of, by bluffing that have it the and the means to mari-produced, swept the world.

Dazzing and dismaying us wor She her contemporaries of pre-war İtulan mtubrella - parachute.

it was "Schiap" yeurs was wooed at the age of Paris couture

and only "Schiop” who was both her 13 by a rich and dashing absurd at audacious enough to bux of Arab on a horse (and since ako a hat resembling a lamb and the courage regrets

not cutlet with a white frill on the Alie WIN

bane, turned a chce upside down Tas allowed to

And h all of them

accept).

for it inspiration 10 saw in 1910-1

14 "schap" you

of purple another hot, a book

who introduced en suits, glas dresses www J

poetry by her was publish- padlocks

and bright red wigs for skiing. jule's dire d

in

!

St. Chong

recenti

The first signs

She deartiker. he ukl hood in Rome That of the I now young aristrerie win al Was jiang ("earragona

hali harvet dak"). First signs of lan resourcefulness. de "plast

1 dewer threat.

1

էլ. որ

14

21d

th

th

Krow

D

flowers hide her

in the batur would plaintess.

She jumped off a window Hill with 2011 improvised

Dent and Saus

S

The ugly and wealthy Russian wat selected by her parents

WY

od rot like. So she raft within days was anch kik fres Arst ball dress it: Finir yards of dark-blue de chine she cirmped rounet indy (quite unseWA}} ond fan crange sash and turbots. www.tam!

Is London (True to Continental

الله اللات

"Schlap's mind," the writes, on the third person when dir- cussing her work, "gave off ideas Ike a firework show."

And her most brilliant and expensive display she gavo just pre-war when #jittery world was making the most of its last months of luxury. She is a m believer that fashion is attuned to and reflects the politics of the

quite for-bound of moment.

་་ 1114 This young Although after war years spent plastic tart, pact Breton in America she found her place Swiss, park Polish, WIKATI the married before her

sd provert it

Tomily

failure.

in Paris kept wan for her, new fashion header was to arise, and new social conditions were to make life difficult for couturiere,

the

The mariage was and "Schiap and Jer by by

daughter (who was struck puño) were thecried and pruni- Jess in New York.

She returned to Europe, and in Paus tried her first design-what

The latest new look is the lifted look

GIVE YOUR SPIRITS

A LIFT!

By IDA JEAN KAIN

WE it's difficult

Law no longer

Never once does the mention the fatal name "Diw," and sho dismisses the New Look with brevity as "leverly planned and magnificently fmanced, which achieved, to the greatest din of publicity

tho known, ever shortest life of my

fashion in history."

The pre-war priesters of fashion does not lightly forgiva the Invasion of her temple!

Although she still had her

devotees ut her dazzling

notions (spats for the beach, kog plastic eyelashes on sun- ghases) her word was no longer law.

which were part of the mystery of her end ns a couturiere,

Her book does not refer to the to With the nia and support of on cheinig in April this year of her (and admitted 10) predict the vagaries of Intenlously designed and pet-famous sakon, nor the big debts"

fectly fitted bra, he effect will rumoured can fashion, one thing we

he right for your gur. From count on ka change.

As to exercise, stretching is answer. Any elongated the boyish form of the 20's, the

with the action centred we swang in the other ex-ugh the middle

measure. treme the exaggerated

ment, will help, & most effec- hosom of the past few ve way to get a lift is ta

The latest fashion stretch

for this from a rod, years.

lifted tones the chest muscles which from Paris is the

support the bust, while pull- bosom.

ing the figure slim through the It remains

be seen midsection whether this new emphasis

to

the latest Analysed,

lift is will become a trend. How not so much a new look as it

Get a lift ever, it may serve to swerve is a new outlook.

come alive.

fashion toward normal curves again. After all, we've gone about as far as) we can go in the Mue West- ward direction.

Have no fear. fashion will ver po back to the Bat chest invoked thai dreadful debutante slouch. Heaven for- This Nobody wants that! bid.

is just what we've been needing to pull the figure up

of the dumpa.

lift

oui

Gr

More in- portant, tho uplift should give

It's spirits a lift,

not

middle age that bogs down the Agure, and not always added poundage-it's a limp spirit.

What does the latest new figure look demand from the standpoint? Normal weight of court, with special :mphasis on a slender, willowy torso, stem- ning from pelvic girdle through the ribengo, Make no mistake, merely wearing an uplift bra will never achieve the figuro required to wear these fashions with a fare.

Got off to a

perfect start, using the muscles that actually do tho lifting the middle muscles. Begin the uplift with the lower abdominal muscles, at the same time contracting the hip muscles, thus

with

fluid

the polvis. Follow by

the waist up out of the

and

the ribcage

supple

This

away

feeling

from the walat brings a slim. that puts now life bry trny figure.

Shoulders should not get in to the not Keợp shouldjors beautifully at caso. Hold your head high-and that bump of self-esteem on the top of your

head very high,

With weight normal" and an elegant, Posture be an

healt

but

and in New York

THE

ADDI

LATEST

from

1600 B.Co

AMERICA'S fashion leaders, searching es

always for something new, hava défred

into the head styles of ancient Egypt.

Sally Victor's wool jersey cop, plctered obovs, is embroidered with outhentic forption symbols of 1600 BC.

The cop is in turquoise, red and beige and on a black background.

THE SHOCKERS

CARRY ON

Engagement lo Egypt

thats the nome of this striped turban worn by American model, Carmen,

BELOW 1 Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney, sold to be America's bast-hotted women, wars The Egyptian Princess, a striped silk hat in lotus white ond" kabi block--plus bird of paradise plumes. Designer: John P. John.

The Inside Story Of The Fashion World

A Radical Change In Foundation Garments

THE for

París. many answers, and like every between the broasts, which is re- silhouette other phase of fashion, must be placed fashion

adapted by the individual woman curve. winter embraces

to suit her particular needs.

Andree Lefaucheur makes the principles of espionage and

for the inside, corsets and girdies for Balenciaga intrigue

story which and Dior. undercover never meets the public eye. plays a vitally important quins role.

flowing by a rounded,

Jean Desses, designing for Feter Pan Foundations In America. also endorses a brief one-plece garment, His model is boned spirally for a supple The former puts his menne-

silhouette, with V-shaped, into all-in-one corssiots, stitched brassiero cups. with an Inset brassiere worked in a new flat cul. This garment has a noticeably looser midrift. producing a straighter silhouette female from bust to hips.

There is something perhaps explanatory, and perhaps sad, In

Christian Dior's latest the statement she made just be- tore she cle:ed her doors on the

the Party she

conception of once conquered which now heeds other infigure, exemplified in the

H-line, is achieved

different "My feeling is that this year, radically

Auences.

time, fashion

for the first not exciting."

WORLD COPYRIGHT RESERVED

-(London Express Service).

Reversible Fur Stole

EXCITING CHOICE

Other Parisian corset-makers | Many women are today step- are introducing similar types of by a ping into all-in-one

in ready-to-wear itarments corsets, both

The type for the first time. They feel that and custom-made models.

changes in choice of style must be left to under the three esential

bust, waist and hips, can most the individual client, but the a essential points are included in ruccessfully be evolved with single foundation,

every type of undergarment.

In spite of the more severe Hints, there is no lack of femini- nity in the now foundations,

is } of corset or

garment.

No amount of seaming, shaping,

construction built into the dress itself, is sufficient.

or

DIOR'S MANNEQUINS

The Diar

Elasticised fabrics may be as mannequins wear two different types of girdles, sturdy as iron, but they are also The new figure needs a depending upon the hour of the as sheer as a cobweb. Many are new foundation.

day and the costume. The first made in synthetic fibrea for quick Today, nearly two months is a low girdle caging the hips laundering and drying

from two Inches below the Colours are pale and pretty- after M. Dior first launched natural waistline to the top of soft very and eggshells, face his bombshell of flattening the thigh.

powder pink, 19sy champagne it appears The

is a an the

and delicato bustline,

ruchod with are that this trend is being foreshortened all-in-one,

bra which raises buckled accepted everywhere. It is under-cupped

a higher placement Jacques Fath. hosom by a higher plac generally modified, but

Hond work, inset of type

section cups. old, pointed brassiere is completely out- moded.

BASIC FORM

KARU KAHUYNY

Excond

the the bosom

of

com-

After the first hue and cry that Dior had plotely obliterated the bosomi was over, women

began to realise that

this

case.

was far from the

The bustline is flattened, but it is also raised. The look is but the drastically different,

bosom is still very much there, ompletely reshaped with a new bra cut.

Although

thousands of wards

have; bean + writion

since July

about this single feature, the Buttoned bosom treatments pro only as part of the major revolution in silhouette,

Thewoond important focal They must

point busabe hips moth

on the wall, to wear the

with 16

wound

model

with

ice blues. Garters!

and shirred,

rhinestones

or

ot

bona and bows, ce pleated lace This ited bosom is a basic frills which cover the thighs and factor in the optical illusion of replace aslip, make figure the long torso line. The special control a very exciting choice bra cut also eliminates cleavage in 1934.-China Mall Special.

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