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| ENÍTORS PRISO service,
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/227
"I'll tell you what happened if you'll promise not to
laugh."
BY
•
THE WAY
•
A CRITIC
by Beachcomber
THE CHINA MAIL, FRIDAY, AUGUST 20, 1954.
JACOBY
ON BRIDGE
Action Pays Off At
Bridge Table Film
By OSWALD JACOBY
WHEN West opened the
aco
of clubs in today's hand, he didn't
word. Since sky actions opeak louder
than words, however, let's see what this opening lead actually Incant.
It
con-
the are of clubs could have spoken, it would have said: "Partner, 1 have decided to disregard your bidding. know better than you do what
needed to defeat this tract."
turned As events
out, this would have been a very foolish speech for the ace of clubs to make. Dummy ruffed the open- ing lead with the king of dia- monda nsid Druptly led the queen of diamonds at the second trick.
There was no way for East to toke He could stop the alam.
but then his ace of trumpa, South was sure to get as many discards on he needed on
dum-
Now let's go back to the open- why It meant ing load and see
of East's a complete disregard
who complained cibels on a sphlottic dial amy's long spades.
cumpart- the other day that char tached to the upper acters move about the stage the ment. The dial is not shown, as it is kept in a leather bag until slowly forgot That show arves
the machine Is set in motion, ment may be very pathetic and
The long rod marked E IN 12 expressive
valvex-lined sparkes which ab- Borbs the shock of the deelbels
A chance in a million
1 fr
to u sdage directive
Canning's play "The Rovers: Several soldiers
the stage #lowly.
10 returning though
from. Seren Years War. There's arols for you' If they dashed the stage the sin would be destroyed
The Strabismus
A
B
Antistrepitometer
TIE Strabismus
antistropako
noises enter
WEST (D)
NORTH
AKUJ63 VAJ97
25
• KQB
Notte
EAST
1073 84
49
to
7
• A 3
♣AQJBB53
SOUTH
4812
32
7 the end of this week I depart on what can hardly be called a holiday 1 am going on the expedition organised by
Bund the Glossop Town" search for the lust take outside The lake, mentioned Nantwich.
Iv Agricola disappeared after a kind of minor earthquake ini 1004, and there is every ressun I believe That it raply went underground.
Easily explained
Prodnose: It is not what one might call crystal-clear why the Glossop Town Hand should be needed in the search for a fust Lake at Nantwich.
have
KQ 1005
K 10704
J 1008542 42
North-South vul.
West North East South
་་ Pay
་
Pass
1013
Pass
Pass G Рава
Opening tract- - ♣ A
smeter The the pear-shoped compartment
Myself: The latest experi- (made of compressed livsut
ments, carried out at Wyoming at A. They are transnated
neuversity,
shown that Into vibrations by a strong water-divining
attached Twiks soluften of proklemu. und Ju certain musical instruments clubs to begin with, and then drop into the narrow lane
the whereabouts must will doscover nt B ALC they turn the corner of water. and drift into the mall ya! marked D. Here they are dis- integrated Ly law pressure stulls, retractel Iron the
bdellium walls of the val The anda des hopes are converted
CROSSWORD
Lerowa
1. Mutor sock janng.).
10 *)
Muurin without the mighty
Handle an are by and for thi
He puts over a lot of drinking!
(3.0)
be
for
bidding.
East bid five When clubs, he knew nothing that he hadn't known at his first turn. he could have bid ve Hence
have had a reason bidding his hearts first.
to in- East wanted chiefly Twin
favourable des that without the aid of say,dicate
East lead.
In this situation. trombones.
might bid Д completely vold bid an he might Kuil, they du A: Of Peatse
leadable
lle Buit Best it is a dull business, Music eminently brightens things up.
would not dream of bidding a shatby, unleadable Ruit,
Prodnose: Surely the
Produose Then are musicians water-diviners?
Myself Not necessarily, it helps.
the
or
WOMANSENSE
Star's Outstanding How New Fashions
Dress
Sense
TUST
London. WHERE could you
who looks like the girl on the right?
Elina Labourdette 1 д 34. year-old French actress with-- wald for it—an outstanding dress NOTIC.
on
Enn of the Jean-Louis Bar- rault Company-inalsted choosing all her own clothes for the film "Paris Affair which she is making here with Alte Guinness.
She wouldn't leave it to the wardrobe mastres. She wouldn't British clothes, Sho have brought her own lock, stock and barrel, from Paris
IT'S A PASSION
ber
Result: The smartest right on or aff the set in years. She gives these clues to own dress success; -.
FIRST: "I im devotel
passionately to clothes. 1 treat the seriously and give them the thought and study olker people give to business.”
SECOND: "I am never 100 influenced by fashion. { have a small waist and I am going ง show it with nipped-in dresses whatever designers may
BY:
British clothes? Sald Miss Labourdette with a calm sunile:
"I'm told they are wonderful. Unfortunately 1 have never dis- covered them."
Venetia Murray
ELINA wears a plain grey flannel suit--but the secret in In the details: The Péter Pan collar--the size makes it so smart: the trininings-grey buttons on whlie pique cuffs; the white straw boater worn as straight as a sailor's cap.
TRY NOT TO BE A SLOUCH
Are Created
Three leading American designors describe what, went on behind the scenos before creation of the autumn, and winter fashion collections now being shown in New York. Mollie Parnis, whose specicity is dresses," begins'
collection "on the road" as in
фу
New York. you think you could alming for a Broadway hit, design clothes.
It is a sure thing the fashion Well, producer and the theatrical prd- here's an invitation to try ducer have several things in
it.
There 10 one unavoidable type or should I say "bore?" -every dress designer encoun- ters almost daily. It is the frustrated designor the woman who "simply loves alothes" and feels this puslan fully qualifies her as a fashion creator.
common.
L
In both cases, experience is no guarantee that you will produce what the nubile wants.
1-
Both cost money. Any signi- fleant fashion collection Involves upwards of US$100,000.
But, whereas the number ide critica covering a Broadway 13 limited, those fashion collections
For even the most talented des opening signer is only a cog in a large "covering" and complicated machine known stretch the length and breadth as "the Arm."
of the nation.
A lovely dress must also be wearable or count zero for the designer. And fashion la A painstaking croft as well as an
ort.
The work on a collection starts about Ave months before it is shown to the public.
my
at
For a representative qutumn and winter collection of coats and suits must cover Jcast four different climates--more varied than the whole of Europe and Great Britain.
A Hit or a Lemon
I call together my associate We "audition" ideas for designer, my fabric buyer, and months in advance. We plot our sales fabrics and types of costumes salespeople. The
best-selling and decide which silhouette people review the dresses of our current collection shall be starred,
how quickly It takes six weeks to bring o --you've no idea you can forget a dress once single now coat silhouette off the you've sent it out Into the world. sketch pad and onto the body at ✡1 fashion model---or about as The Feeling
long drg It takes to rehearse Broadway show. Multiply the six weeks by 25 to see how much work goes into a tailored col-
Next, I outline my terling about clothes in general-what
to
I think women will want to be lection of clothes. wearing.
After months of work behind Then my assistant designer, closed doors, my collection opens the fabrics buyer and I go on a "cold"
the
Of audience
There is no chance to try out, the basis of our entire collec- out of town; no opportunity to tion.
doctor a weak part of the show.
fabric-buying expedition that experts.
Insts several weeks and forma
I study
Next step is up to me, the fabrics and assign them to
The fashions are a hit or o my associates. Each member of lemon-depending
on
the
the design staff is given fabrics "critica" in every state of the which have the "feel"
of his union.
particular talent.
When the
sketches are sub- mittel, we discuss each in detail,
feet
If
By HELEN FOLLETT OOD pasture is essential to high, abdomen fat, legs straight yourself for back in the chalk G opening perfect
The but appearance.
parallel. Keep your buck straight, not rigid, foot
on the floor close together. trimmest figure loses its lovely weight evenly balanced. lines when milady's carriage is
you must cross legs, cross them this way Stand
and
your at the ankle. It makes a more slouchy and she icoks nwicward
04- Good attractive picture for the Dgure will look better. in motion,
posture calls attention to a slim looker. waist
do a Before going to sleep, can leadi to When shoulders fall forward, few stretching exercises.
119. physical
and
head Quite the chest flattens
your your arms
be: Shallow, breathing slows standing with legs apart, try to up circulation. It's vicious pull yourself
An opening heart lead would have defeated the slam contract, but East would surely get a heart trick as well as his ace of dip- monds.
CHESS PROBLEM CARD Sense
By G. THOMAS
Black, 9 pieces.
B
whip. 141
10)
(0)
11
12
Ort,ral Bgure un November 5.
(3)
1N BAK
13. Čafted by all the best payora
145
Punted to become a tyrant. (01
f. Deggar in renditionally net ole.
(7)
20 Sacred to Beratlana oico, ($)
23
You're urged not to do this to
the planlāt, 191
The Pines Inn makes a gotne
24
1
played here. 181
There's a European touch about
this name for one Briton 101
Numb?
Down
A rine brings this out
on top. 4. Something this can be deadis.
10)
4. The river in apate. (7)
4. Stern backwards.
(3)
practically.
D This describes the man of the
river. 131
4. fot place ty Coventry, 191
7. Solety and simply a lake, 141
9. Beginning and end of sanity.
10.
herrny,
and the
143
beginning of
14. Order from the clamist
geographically 7 (4)
10. Ar works in Latin America, (4)
18 It may be a bit expensive, but
you can learn from him. (B)
a. Iturn, you might say-Not Out 1
(4)
19. Outsize in the Engineers 7 (4) 11. Rubble shot here | Gi
22. Early town from Sparta. (0)
SOLUTION
TO CHECK - YESTERDAY'S PUZZLE
DUMB-BELLS
I WONDER HOWE THEY MANAGED TO PRINT THIS BOOK E WHEN THE PAGES HAVENIT, BEEN
CUT?
White, 11 picers.
White to play: mate in three,
Solution to
problem.
Q-The bidding has beeTY! Went North East South
i Heart Double I Dmd.
POR
1 Spade Puss Pass
You, South, hold: Spade 7, Hearts Q-J-10-0-3, Diamonds 8- What do 5-4-2, Clubs Q-7-4. you do?
A-Bid two hearts. You are dissatisfied with the spade con- track, and your hearts are tood enough to need very little sup- port. You are not optimistic about the future of the hand, but you may well be safer at two hearts than your partner is at one spade.
TODAY'S QUESTION
The bidding is the same as in yesterday's the question just answered. You, South, hold: Spades 7-6, Hearts K-J-10-6-3, Diamonds 8-5-4-2,
1. K-R17, any; 2. Q, or Clubs Q-7. What do you do? Tatca,
Answer Tomorrow
only
A serious posture slump isn't unattructive but a health menace, too. definite
over
and I decide which ones shall SALLY VICTOR, be produced, first in muslin, then
noted milliner," says as the dress itself.
'be
BEN ZUCKERMAN, Raise suit and coat special- T
and
often poor posture results in a breathing, is not what it should stretch, stretch sfrotch! Then, ist, says "it's like
feeling of fatigue.
If you tend to slouch, better circle. straighten up. Remember that you can be a lady of fashion unless you know how to stand.
Here's the formula for good posture: shoulders straight, chest
BOYS'
IL
R
When you walk, cultivate springy stop. It will make you stem young and hill of bounce. Learn to sit pretty, too. Place
AND
Chirpie Has Visitors
-And Everybody Ate Dinner but the Host!-
By MAX TRELL
HIRPIE SPARROW came to the window sill. He uttered three sharp whistles. He paused for a moment, then uttered three more sharp whistles.
waistline.
Apart
at the
Stretching is relaxing. More than that, it gives you a chanco to take the kinks out of your muscles after a busy day.
GIRLS'
show business“
THE fashion business is like TH
show business.
There is the same excitement, the same gamble and often the same crisis in putting a fashion
MAGAZINE
"Oh, quite a lot," said Chirple.
"Pigeon came. Squirrel came. Robin come. Wren came. Thrush came. Magpie came, Mouse came. Hanid. And I think there were others, "What had that to do with it, but I'm afraid I didn't get Chirple?"
"Company?"
sald
"Well," said Chirple, "I'll tell you and then you'll understand."
around to seeing who they were the fact that account or on acc
got in my way. everyone else In any caIJE,
I got around to Chirple walked up and down shaking hands with and talking the window sill to get his to as many of these friends as
A few seconds later, Knarf thoughts in order. Then he possible. Then I looked at my
YOUR BIRTHDAY...... By STELLA Sing
FRIDAY, AUGUST 20
activity mentally If you are to do." In youth, you are probably fond of outdoor sports and definitely need an outlet for ymar energies. As you grow older, it is likely that you will divert your interest to mental and cultural activities, 1st which you will show 431 equal energy. You have executive abluty end know how to organite things so that they run andothly.
ME
entertaining and
and Hanld, the shadow-children began. with the turned-about names,
"As you know, I've got a opened the window from inside their room. On looking out and pleasant little room of my own
Chriple.
the
the both just under
root of they
garage at the greeted him.
spot where the shingle is loose."
Knarf and A Hungry Sparrow
Hanid said they both knew the spot.
watch and now that it was near dinnertime. So I asked if any- body was hungry."
"Were they?" asked Knari.
Everyone Was Hungry
"were thoy!" exclaimed
Chirple.
“Bread crumbs would be fine,” -
asid Chirpis to the shadows.
זיי
a fashion ex-
plorer
THE hardest part of designing hats is getting the idea for the collection.
My line is sarted when "is happens. "It" is when I get the very first, iden for a new group.
everything Sometimes,
that comes to mind scema efther too familiar, or too radical, and moments of doubls there are and indecialon,
Often the news anywhere around the world is the begin- ning of the idea. Sometimes a new skirt length, or maybe the opening of play or a plcture, can provide the needed Inspira- tion. A book, or a trip I take may do the trick.
New Look Thrill
Sometimes
an outstanding personality sets hat fashions. think Mrs Elsenhower is a fine example of this. Her inaugural hat, which I made towards a definite need (good it, becom
weatherproof in Ingness, and
case
of rain or high winds) popular beyond my wildest dreams.
Froved
Once the idea for the collec tion comes, the most exciting part of the millinery business begins. It's fun to watch your ideas carried out and the con- sumer proclaiming the result a | KRSE,"
As for copying hats, I know that when they stop taking my But it designs, I'm finished. would be nice to have a little more time to exploit my own designs before others copy them.
"You've never beard "Oh, you poor thing," said "I'm kind of hungry," Chirpie "AI my friends know where anything like it. Everyone of Hand. BORN today, you are so fond of magnetism and charm. There's one
live, Chrirple continued, them started thing of which you must be warned: said, after he had returned the I
chirping and "Picase," said Chirple. that you eally become
"That's why I came "They often and physically depressed your versatility le so gerat that you greeting
come to visit me squealing and
My best advice to you. women squeaking that didn't mind being fingry. It's deprived of "something must team to concentrate on ROTHS
here, I'm pretty hungry. I as all good friends do and as all they never felt so hungry in much more important to have come autumn is this: Try colour single objective if you are to reach the heights of accomplishment to hope you don't mind."
good friends should. What hap their lives. All right, I uld, good friends than to have good try new silhouettes. You don't which you aspire.
"Would you like some bread friends who hadn't visited me
pened today
was, that all my Come with me. We'll all cat. food. There isn't a single one have to buy them, but res· it Marriage should bring you hap
of them who wouldn't, if you don't discover a new "you." pincas. You members of the fale | crumbs?"
for quite a while, all decided to
sold Chriple, "S0,"
took visited him, have done as much You may have allowed yourself fex would make excellent partners
to become lullied Into a con- for ambitious men. You have the
"Oh, yes, thank you.
same day, at the them all from one window sill for me.” That come on the "know-how***
at the same to the other, from one heap of
placent mood, and will never should make an excellent losies, would be fine. Bread crumbs same hour, and
minute."
bread curmbe to another, heap "One good turn deserves an- know the thrill of a new look. be just right," sald on this date would Among those born
"My goodness!" exclaimed of bread crumbs. And every- other," said Knarf.
-unless you become à fashion Wiliam Rutherford
Hanid. "How
were body ate and ate and ate.... "You mean, one good crumb
explorer, Hanid hurriedly
deserves another, sald Chripie. got soma there?”
everybody, that is but me," broad crumbs which she placed on the window sill and, which Chirple, without any delay whatever, speedily gulped down. Finally, after he had eaten au the broad crumbs and had wiped his bill (as we might wipe our Jips)
Mead, Chirple.
Both you men and women might proj be drawn into some kind of pubile architect: Benjæger Harrison, 23rd stage or the pareer, rudlo or Robert Herick, posts. television. You have the ability to mediate between conflicting in- To find what the stars, have la ‚dividuals” who May
represent store for you tomorrow, select your
Tire:: politics. diplomacy, the U.S. President; Edgar A. Guest and
opposed ideologies. As a diplomat biruulay stor griet your birth- or statesman, you might have a ponding paragrapli. Let vory miccersul career, for you have day star ue your daily guide.
<
SATURDAY, AUGUST 21
U, Chirple turned to Knar!
· 150 - Căuty 20-Aug. 29)-Keep a AQUARIUS (Jan. 21-Feb. 193) on the edge of the window exulous eye out for accidents, and There's romance for you now. If you and Hanld and said: "I suppose
go well. Be careful
It That Booking acquaintance might be iti
Kthy will
are 31
drivingo (Aug, 24-Rept. 231-Every
summer
you're wondering why I was, so
thing 14 met for a point week- PERCES (FCH, 10-Mar” 20)—A gala | hungry," "
quare orgles and
the recent Wed, 12 on vacation, have a week-end to terminate wonderful time! ;
period of inaction and undertakaly 44NRA
fo Chept.): 24-006 - 23)—AN and excellent day to begin #fine weeks, optimian. and, especially: Ik: you aw, planning
VINE.
AMIRB (MAE, R1-Apr, 10)—Businrar sffairs should be booming. You may SCORPIO (O<L/14+N®v. 10-Thia reosiva a males in astery or other may be a fine-đẩy for inspiration.
increase in inocuse, per da Carla, Landi) A professions. .The
"It must have been," sali Kharf, "boonuse you didn't have anything to eat.”
many
Rupert and the Spring Chicken-30
Chirple said: Yes, that's true. But the curious thing -ki how I managed not to have ariy- especially, favoured, in this regard." TAURUS » (Ápr. 21-May 'X1)-Pár- thing to eat," it wasn't because Chape you are gets a late Vianti there was anys lack Loff-food **BAGITTARIUS (NOT, MADOS, Mm. This should be a cae, time for 3£*
·Ba' confident that? you will hayata fing, plassirable; ask-end, bakken GRMINE (May 15-June 11)—Aspects There's always plenty of food ins
phans beginning id ever ugh) Plano for the,, or a dozen at different, CAPIÚCORN) 18
}{Dvc. 15-818) 332 med kyour) pha que, degnidestly window, allls in the neighbour
The troubl
*
Before 'hfit:hufenty20, WIN-
ado" the Title' bear in
Another
New Adventure
RUPERT
and the
LOST RAILWAY
Household Hints
thin crumb
*Try your
favourite coffên Sprinkle it with spicy oatmeal cooky crumbs which have been mixed with a little browIY, BUDIT and - moistened with melted butter or margarinë.
•
Remove the burnt tasto from scorched milk by putting the pin in cold water and siding 'a pinch of mit to the 'milka
Pienic sandwiche fresh", longer; } }, it-arti wrapped you: SOSİ the, wax paper, with"
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