1954-02-20 — Page 11

China Mail 德臣西報 中國郵報 All

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 1954.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Catching A Breath Of Summer From Rome

Stripes And Straw For The Beach

DOME is the city that blazes a sun

shine bmail towards the clothes women will be wearing on the beaches when summer finally comes.

And Roma is where ROBB, the top artist in the fold of fashion, has taken his sketchbook

to bring you the news that is in idens.

Stripes and straw

that's the keynote

this year. They dominate all the holiday wear collections and football jerseys in every mix- up of colour are flaring ahead of other summer. styles that almost qualify for fancy dress!

Most of the jerseys pro of fine wool. And straw which looks like non is made into hata. bags, sandals, and even the frames of sun- specs.

Do not laugh off these styles. Crazy, "nnybe -but you'll be seeing their influence on the benches.

THIS the winner--cany-to-wear slacks and football jersey. The pockets of the stacks, set at an angle. Care pushed well to the front, and the trouser ends are alfi in front. The bright-coloured handkerchief scarf is still popular.

THE

girl above sheltering under the roof-"hat" in too simple a word for the huge con- coction of rainbow-coloured

artificial straw on her head-- wears

jersey-jacket edged

A

ro

with multi-coloured piping. The beach trousers

of striped ilnen,

Next to her: Knotted woollen hat;

straw-trimmed "shaggy. dog" sun glasses; outsize striped jersey: slt-to-the-knees jeana; black straw sandals—the lot.

To Look Fashionable, Watch

The Dresden Shepherdess

By Dorothy Barkley

London. told, is that It goes with the one evening dress in white or- HIS is the time of year sugar almond shades seen on the ganza with a violet print,

And she gives an unconven- and new looks make a boy But London women have found tional air to the flannels, linen to the fashion world. But a better reason than this. Most and tweeds that

THIS is of your new stumtunga and slike prints

she does 180.

felt less like a Red flannel the Victorian

they don't apply to clothes of them never

Dresden shepherdess. So they petticoat material-is quilted and

to

by Robb

HERE, in one outfit,

DIOR CALLS IN

THE NAVY

The sailor boy and the butcher boy kill off the Princess Look

PARIS.

CHRISTIAN

after they are in silit or kid to Dior match their ensemble. ·|- showed a navy blue, appear, and for evening fedther- With sports cults moccasins down-to-the-sea collection light sandals or charming satin with salior collara, boaters, slippers with pointed toes, and sailor hats, French matelot low Louis XIV heels. caps, and jewelled anchors Over the black sük restaurant and battleships. Every nice frock Dior puis full loose coats girl is going to adore this of brillianfi flower strewn sailor.

shantung, organza or, muslin

Only black mark Star of Spring collection is the

Against return of the strappless evening dress. Dior sometimes Judes the under tiny decollete over- blousea of sutin or chiffon, hd Alls in the neckline with count- less intertwined strings of trans- parent beads.

No Paris designer says goodbye more firmly to the Princess look than fushion dictator Dior, who created

it.

Navy blue is his Choice for Spring. Dior calls this bright shade Blue of Paris and teams it with white, lac, a new shade of pelunta, and all the tower tones for evening.

LIKE APRONS

Many of his suita and conts aro in fine white

this

Most beautiful of the em-. broideries in coloured silks was of flowers, bees and butterflies.

With their beli-skirted 'even- ing gowns models wore small velvet bows In their hair of black velvet bands carrying itoy

the

and blue curled osprey renters:

stripes like bulcher-boy aprons. Only sitört dinner dresses rémwin Bleckly black.

The general silhouette is of three widths.

First the larger bats; next the blouse bodices with their many sallor collars and low set-in sleeves, giving shoulder width; and lastly the wider skirts, springing from tiny waists with the graceful swing of small all-round box pleats.

Skirts are still short, but not They quite us extreme as lust season.

have

stabilised 01 an

the

to And congratulations most sensible hairdresser. in Paris-Guillaume who dressed

Dlor mannequins hair. Ho

but followed no style. dressed each head to flatter its owner.

The result was buna, short curis, waved folds, teasy-wensles, from the A delightful change

miform hair styles of most Paris models.

FAIRY GODMOTHER

If Cinderella had lived in Paris, then Carven would have been her Fairy Godmother.

Madame Carven is the designer

are three points to average of 17 Inches from the for jeunes files. She can taka

note.......

A red

knitted pirate hat;

A sailor Jacket with deep collar, Worn

over a red and white striped jersey; and a typical pattern,

HOW How

skirt

ground,

FOR CAREER GIRL

Rat-chested, gawky school- girl, fresh from her gym tunics and hockey sticks, and turn her swiftly into one of those half- Top coals have acquired a shy, half-sophisticated creatures more tailored look and cease to who marry eligible young men resemble dressing-gowns. Set-in and get their pictures in the sicoves, and fitted walsts give a glossy magazines. sleeker me and we see, more

fine serge.

gay silor collars and the return Younger Set fashions shown of navy chalk-stripe flannel and by her included: bulleher-boy stripes for costumes and street dresses in white and-navy-blue, The career: girl is going to tight white pique cuffs showing applaud Dior's "breakfast to just below

loose cap siceves; dinner" ensemble. Tailored opron skirts over basic sheaths. Jackets, in wool or silk, cover

For dinner dates the

decollete strapped dresses, and

give the appearance of suits.

say can you get? res?

DOL BEY LEE3D

Robb spotted in Home these pistalls of plaited straw, tied with bright ribbon, to siva gum-glasses that little girl Jook.

:

GREEK STYLE

unusual note

in the

Most littlo dresses are festive enough for Jacques Griffe collection is the

like

0. rather dancing, and may have a third Greek tunic,

falling full team-mate

detachable sleeveless chemiso, sullor cape collar.

of pleated from a: low round -Court shoes with pointed toes neck. The dress is shaped to the are a mixture of calf and suede, Agure by shoo-string ties which Navy for morning. black for outline the bust and give a high later-day. For cocktails and walst-line.

NO ZIP, NO HOOK, NO BUTTON - JUST A CORD

THE ABRACADABRA

DRESSES

and hats alone. Far from it. are only too glad to know how turned into a full length event Once designers are in the they can disguise a blue nose, ing coat. Fino linen is hand- mood for thinking up new cover up wind beaten cheeks, embroidered, pleated and made and acquire a pink-and-white into evening dresses. Her tweeds creations there's no stop china complexion instead.

are "whitewashed."

That's the Connolly ping them.

contribution Here Is the way the merels current fechich terminology achieved it. First, ort went in and it means that her CHIAPARELLI is show undercort of whitening cream- are all in pode colours pink,

ing free and easy rounds like painting the dining yellow and white.

frocks, with no hooks, but toris, zips or belts, that slip

came

Then foundation cream,

So it was no surprise to find room walls, but don't let that now cosmetic fashion being discourage you. launched with

London rose tinted the

surprise was to find that it takes emp

from the "im

us away

PARIS.

on and off in a couple,

“Abracadabra"

colicetions. What WAS the rouge and powder, and, for Right που, all the London seconds. She has christened

emphasis, a vivid lipstick. If stores are filled with the row them you want to follow the models cottons. And it's nice to know dresses. back to a "natural" look, down to the last eyelash you'll that we can look forward to: It is of the china pink, Drezden need n narrow line of violet

look bra

shepherdess variety, and was eyeshadow shown by several top models, In- Lashes. cluding Barbara Goalen and

Sylvia Shelley.

There's usually a reason for cosmetic fashions and the reason for this particular one, we are

just behind

the

A drawstring back tie helps New prints, with checks and floral designs in the lead. I've to mould them to the figure. seon white cotton embossed with a fine grey check used for V-necked drews with

black Success with a hat this season, piping and buttons, and white

to Ronald Paterson, cotton according

sprigged with a black depends on two things.

made into a sun floral design First, the size: the hat must be either dress and bolero,

tiny or large. Second, the New types of cotton, with

material it must be a combina quilted cotton tion of two. For instance, he

leading the lit

Most interesting feature fros this house was the shorter length of the full evening frods |- three inches from the ground. Hand-painted

her beautiful choice of Behiaparelli, as always, excele

and wilto Regency striped gat edged velvet with a fringe of term and is seen on anything mimoyallow,

She combines havy blue with gobroldered slraw.

from skirta to brunch couts and write mislin with coral strands For a small hat he chooses bedjackets.

Da oriflame coloured sweet blue; the pillbox shape and trims it Now popularity for our very pizar with blade wid more sir- and uses her old love staticking We cannot tell the precise with a long spike of a feather, old friend (remember Your PRICEDELY with purple... moment, when friendship is But watch that feather. It could Victorian Heroines?) gingham.

vessel create havoc

Words Of The vells straw with polka-dot tulle, of newcomers. It has a pink colours and guy causal clothes,

Wise

formed. As in

now

dotis. dresses

Your best Last seen made up into sumpor false embroidery and trendy drop, there is at last a friends won't thank you if you suits the under-fives" or drop which makes it run over will odorating lichen Windows in With so in a series of kladnesses there naithe will strangers If you country is at last one which makes the have it on in a packed theatre.

Rone up in the heart run over (James Box- well)

limit, and Paterson makes one the way Derville do, with the with an cast-to-west brim. But short sleeves and the Coline out Mirth is like a flash of light-Hold on to that hat if there's a on the crois fait skiers With ning, that breaks, through a breeze about. If you don't, o impressed cleats and 73% partes of gloom of clouds, and glitters for gust and it will have gone with white ince Bending the min n moment chessfulness keeps up the wind..

For a large hat, the sky's the 10" give it mikazeAlbiker, wekte. 3. DARYMLEDE VARNE : Underet :

and all It' with astoady and

a kind of daylight in the mind,

perpetual serenity, ze (Jogoph

Addison)

Byb}} Contiolly

Irish:

designer; this seanda koan, all out Nothing seems so tragic to one to show that Irtland can produce who is old as the death of the other fashionk (khart stanne! who is young," and "tale-Eleneinen and tweede proves that liên lá a good thing. 3: Thebe's a dash of the glam

New scomusdry, to go,

ptors be Bead sind

SQARTU

all Gro aut away from the throat.:

Top coats are three-quarter Jength, loose,

árid generally collarless. Elegant perfection for the woman who like to be in ad-Day dresses have interesting vance of fashion that it how I bloused backs and kid belts would describe the Balenciaga that rest on the top of the hips. collection.

and

Dramatic new lines include slightly-bloused which are short low set-in sleeves giving shoulder width, a

Low, loose belts appear some jackets, suggesting a drop ped waist line.

оп

·Collars are either non-existent or of the large ampe variety. But

Hats were the most amusing we have seen in Paris. Basical- ly small, shallow pills they were trimmed with overy kind of Feathered eccentricity - 24 plumes, straw pigtails; "ang for evening chignons of ribbons

and Bowers.

--- Eileen Ascroft

SUCH A SILLY JOB'

BUT SHE'S A HIT

KURRAY

would as i selslary, be- bille £ got elution didiply, and

WOPRINT IDE, Dior, and aris Agok Baridi and Sibbel.

the eternal captivator --.

me

PARFUMS

MARCEL ROCHAS

PARIS

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