1954-02-13 — Page 9

WEEK-END

It's Still Hug-Me-Tight And More So

Paris.

ISAPPOINTING and

D'uninspiring that must

be the verdict on the Paris dress shows last week-end. Even two midnight glamour presentations have failed to produce anything that wo did not see in London rc- cently.

Paris is passing through one

of its easy consolidation periods after Last season's revolutions.

minor

Not

Shorter skirt remalu, Dior's extreme 10 inches, but the wearable 15 pulled by Puth and

Mor

Just autumn.

luches Des'cs

The mouldeti look is still with un, but more so,

PRETTIEST MODELS

even

Fath

whalebones Jaka shorter jackets to achieve than eureted effect,

Jean Dessen made a bid to revive the full-length cape worn over a matching weski suit. He Alsu showed sallar collars and starred the old spring darling--- navy blue wid white pique.

Skarla were soft and easy with

con, cated pleating: sleeven rounded and loosely set; coBara low cut; and waists natural,

Pirtiest

models were The florul chillon evening gowns reminiscent of Versailles shop- herdesses.

For the petite figure There were velvet-slotted cotton even- ing dresses like Sevres and Saxe purcelain figurines: And plouse note the majority of them were short.

One can best describe The collection Q3 ม Jacques Fath

He uses them in game of durts,

every Jorn to achieve his "hug-mo-Ught" bodices.

We

sex ho

return of large

eart-wheel hals with roft shallow crowns (men are going 10 admire these),

Bust lines ure high and emphasized by darts or draping, ant dresses have a miniature Edwardian bustle effect achieved by rounded folds at the back of the skirt like a ladybird's wings.

M.

AMUSING DETAIL

Fath also gives new impetus to the old spring theme of navy and white pique, and uses an attractive low cut cape through the day.

was the

As amusing detall enormous, masculine, knotted the

in silk for evening or wool or

plqus

to team with day sails. Colours, reminding one of Paris in Springume with its blue sky and pink chestnut trees, feature candle pink and hesita- tion blue,

to date.-Luis of

Summary pretty clothes but no new lines, and we have yet to see a fashion Inspiration that we expect from Paris,

(WORLD COPYRIGHT RESERVED London Express Servicu.)

The

Pleasant swimsuit

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 13, × 1984.

WOMANSENSE

slightly

Petit-point embroidered Lastex-Carolyn Schnurer's “stop- short" flowered while bathing sult--from the designer's Spring and Summer colicotion. The bottom of the Auli la blowed in front, and fitted in back," for fastery. Pink roses with green leaves blend with the green grosgrain

shoulder straps,

bolt aud

Global Inspirations for Designers: from the Pacific to the Mediterranean

By Dorothy Barkley

London. Langorine, ginger, Moditerranean has been put on it by the ton He teams his designers. Ronald Paterson, the LONDON'S fashion caval- blue and sana.

dresses with the matador's newest member of the Inepr cade last week showed bolero, silk cummerbund and porated Society of Fashion, that top designers, after sombrero.

Doigners, is one who has used it a lot. exhausting the home held,

For an Ascot gult he chose a are searching abroad for

black, white and a grey. mottle fresh ideas.

which looks like the new piquo silk prints. And evening jackots: with long sundresses, are made in a new suit navy col- ton criss-crossed with

with white

John Cavanagh, for instance,

Rods to the tropics for his. His now "no" follows the shape of the Pacific palm tree: That means, when translated Into fashion, that cults and dresses are stem slim and have round- ed shoulders, and fyll curving Bleaves.

Michael has dipped into the future for his ideas,

Whilst other designers are showing a very feminine, found ed shoulderling, he introduces the square not-in typa He is

one of our most forward look- ing designers so you'll mobably sco a wide revival of this style by next year,

On suits and dresses Atted with a Magyar sleeve, he adds a saflor collar to give the same square appearance,

string.

не

puts the most amazing, dresses. trimming on evening A knot of material is attached to the waist and from it two long tails

hom. making it look liko a cross be tween

tafl a horse's

and a bustle. It may be chic, but would you wear it?

fail to the colours aro a riot of trow ple hues lagoon

blues, and and coral pinke. Even the but- tons carry out the tropic motif. They

are shaped like plae- appico, guavas of cacti. And one. of his evening expes in a vivid green-is made of silk palm leaves sewp, onto a silk base.

king

Chop-Suey Look

To mark his twenty-fifth an- niversary as a designer Digby Morton has two themes run through his collection Theme number

is Chi- TLOSE, he calls it the "Chop"

and

The

idea came to

Sucy look.

ona

han when he visited Son Fran- cisco's China Town and bought a coolle jacket.

So day. and evening Jackets follow thia loose, comfortable line and the hals to go with them have an unmistakable coolie look.

Colours are Chiucas too. One evening outfit is called "Famille Roso". A dress in Chinese blue shantung, overlaid with black

goes

He's making use of the now straw fabrics, too. A long stole In belge straw

with a white town dress, and a white straw jacket with a sailor col- lar foca with a slim black

dress.

It seems that all doubts that cotton is unsuitable for formal occasions have been dispelled for us. The fashionable scal

Accessories

Accessory note. Hair styles are longer, softer and fluffler, Shoes have pointed toes, spindle hools and are often in gleaming ma- terials-satin or gunmetal kid, Hats are either very small or very large,

He Rings Two Sisters

For A

San Francisco.

lace goes with a loose coat in THE two sisters were cyclamen pink satin.

Themo number two 18 Spanish. Colours aro sunlit -

Shark

manager of a men's clothing store called.

"We need a shark," the man

sitting in their down- town office when

the

said.

Bravo to Mr Stiebel Who Has

the

Courage to Say "No"-

By EILEEN ASCROFT

☛HE Moulded Look was Suit Jackets followed the same Testablished in London theme,

with mug-fitting when the "Big Twolve" corsages and high-set pockets

emphasising the bust, fashion designers opened their spring shows.

For this I say Bravo to Mr Victor Stiebel.

UNBROKEN LINE

TOP-COATB in lined veiður, zibeline, poult and printed paper shantung are closely moulded to the waist, with flaring different skirts. But these are not full as last season,

coat line

80

the

Another Mr Stiebel calls this long, un- It is broken line from under the bust Cacoon, which wraps over with bulk at the refreshing to see a London to the skirt hem the Long-Legged lonely

tapering peg-like designer sponsoring a really Look. It is faintly reminiscent shoulders, individual line-and with of the moulded line launched by towards the ham,

Dior in the autumn, the courage to say No More

Important evening decision

by JACKETS are slightly shorter, made

Mr Sebel 越 Long Evening Dresses.

In this first show of the with scooped-out necklines; but drooping they still have the Society Incorporated

of

shoulder, Fashion Designers Mr Stiebel showed bodices SKIRTS keep the mid-calf with brillant flowers on a back-

mil-length, slim in front, sweeping to slight pleated fullness at back,

that corsetted the riff.

Shoe Maestro Dismisses His Rival With An Insult...

By A. EDWARDS & D. BEYFUS

MEET the man who makes about the feet

ex-customera the Thuchees of

Mr

1 am too expensive for hor), feet are not very

well shaped,

1

the

No More Long Evening Dresses.

Moulded

and full bodices ballet-length skirts were ablaze ground of black organza,

After-six dresses in printed paper taffeta or patterned pure Bilk surah have skin-afting bodices, crook shoulders and full. or cigar-slip short skirts, Other beautiful materials for evening

lace include needle-run printed slipper satin,

BLACK AND WHITE

and

For DAY TIME tweds are still in favour, but they have lost the shaggy look. Gros- grain, lace and printed surah are used for dresson and the very popular slik nuit.

Pockets appear in new places on Handy Amies's sulia, Hare you see small neat flaps placed across the thoulder of collarless Jackei or across the bust of a poliäred neckline.

Into belts or packets of many day time sults are tucked gay sprigs of flowen og fruit.

A collection to delight the young and gay in heart who possess the two important essentials:

It is B wonderful, mason ment. for COLOUR. Basically boigo White is going replaces grey,

A good figure; and A good foundation

gar-

1

BATTLE AREA

and above,”

Most

of his jackols and dresses are collarious;, "imalli flat, high pockets are frequently used to outline and emphasize ika byst.

FRE evening or

to form a frame for the fac

The dishes she cooks for her of famous wo-

roit are generally a speeded-up shoes for the Queen men than about their faces.

"Markeno Dietrich has the version of French recipes.

to be important, and black The battle uren this penson," Mother, ex-Queen Narri- prettiest feet I know, he knows

She cooks spaghetti and eats too. But most of the beautiful gays Hardy Amica, "Is the bust

silks are ·· man, Rita Hayworth, Clau- how to put her feet down with-

brillantly dette Colbert, and Marlene out looking like a cart horse" it with butter or grated cheese new

patterned. with a salad and milk. 20 pairs a Perugia makes

Ascot and other summer. Dietrich.

year for her.

She makes her own crispy festivities should be gay da a "Now tako ballet dancer

chips to eat with cold ham and | flower parcieri. The man who lists among his Rene Jeammaire. Her feet are green salad. Or bolls potatoes, Windsor ("but I think I am too not bad, but a dancer's feet are crumbles them, and mixes the dressing. fancit for her now") and the always spoiled: they have too places with French

while they are hot. Duchess of Kent ("but I think much muscle. Rita Hayworth's small, but

She dope omolottes, fillet Jennifer

voal dipped

in bwend His shoes are the dearest in Jones-no good at all, not even be, cold called the world: average price, 200 a. Interesting.

xaled, cream chesse, l'anda pair but a good pair coster "My best customer was Eva, vegetable boiled, sand pat £130,

Peron. She ordered hundreds, with bulter, and parsley "for and didn't mind the cost."

my complexion."

And when there is a 1tlo Idepa sound too, Perugia le positive that there more time she puts a expenalve, too crazy, too ex- is no one to equal him ab his spinach, in 4 dish with rolled travagant to flourish in London, job. "No one," he said em slices of iam on top. nich but who also manages to bring photically-and dismissed his off the kind of fashion winner only rival with the worst insult these sauce poured over it. that everyone wears.

that.a man who-makes shoes-to What a different' piœurs from or could think of He the bachelorette London nothing.. Hi shoce are piling the starch with Ibák nearly de bad de ready-inade beans on toast, followed by, a (his latest are nickel heels, one QUANG cup of plyonay coseal

Mir. Perugia is the shoo de- signer whose

Each year he produces a heap

of mad, impracticable Ideas

cork-scrow heels, and shoes

shaped likay an animal's paw). But he also the map, who

started the first ballet shoes, the

· TAILPIRĢE) One fact flumines tha 200 WHEN in a furry for a meal today, better

platform soles, the first the American girl operis n tin of words

open sandals,

"I am a poet of fort" he said the

for Mr. Perugia takwa bi

with; shuttering, sortóum:

will haenarinir L

making shoes. Ma

Whenever a woman walks inta room I look automatiomiłyszym

liah girl opens a tin, and that 4hp:

meateand: more Mick

hout

reco

- Me - Amies" "give

length as

full; and "straight

Hilver

A what?" the girls asked. "A shark," came back the answer. "We're having a salo on men's shark-skin suits and we want a shark to advertise them"

Eleanor Montgomery and Virginia Johnson were non- plussed for a minuto. It was a strange request even for their business. But they accepted the order and promised to do their best

They Find Anything

The two are co-owners off a shop

which advertises shop for everything."

In their business they have -almost. They have had re- quests from Australia, Ger many, Finand and Venezuela. They've been asked to find such diverse

items as a pedl- greed bull, a rare first edition, an octopus, three dozen oyster eggs, 5,000 baby trout, and the shark.

.1

لله

The two say the order which” pleased them most came from the lonely wife of an worker an an isolated project in Saudi-Arabia. She wrote that life in the desert was pretty drab for a woman, but. one thing would help make It bearable.

"Send me a bright.party dress," she wrote, "something" to break the monotony.”

"That was the simplest re quest we ever filled," Virginia sald. "And I wish they all wero as gratifying."Unlied Press.

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