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166
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 15, 1953.
It is quite an unusual honour to be allowed in here alone"
WALES
INSIDE THE KREMLIN AWAITS
by
John Gordon
Moscow.
Tsix o'clock you will go to the Kremlin," said a woman's voice
1-in curiously Russian- acconted English, on my hotel room telephono..
So, at six o'clock in the evening, my car purred up the narrow slope to the heavily guarded, massive. fortress gates in the towering red walls, many feet thick and looking A8 old as time from behind which rise the fairy talo gilded Oriental spires and domes and the yellow and white buildings where the rulers of Russia work, and,... so far as one knows; live.
Luba, my assiduous woman Interpreter, and I stepped out of our car and moved to the gate.
TWO CAPES
I HAD been warned, and regarded it as reasonable.
to expect close scrutiny and much investigation before I could enter.
Malsator'a garsoni bodyguarda živé burit
Malecker asé Molstoy five karu wher ence the Czar's servants «glept
| The Archangel Calbadral is
gay of fear in the Cremlin
The wall around the Kryulin is j65 Test high, 11⁄2 miles ing
The carillon used to play the Grafst kym. Calmas are re broadcast un Moscow refio
Rain had begun to fall
sky, was
質
Lesia's Top1
| Spassky Gate, whery auhassadors emble.
Butera de 1817, remļatios (all who| entered and to use for the painting of the Virgin Mary within the portat
| Gota 18) Ezar's Palace. This ta new e MOSHUM
- 248 stark lit at night'
} karo replaced croSIAN
j na the Krastin teners
| International conferences 2B Red Des
Their rigidity gives an
A NEW PRINCE
By J. W. TAYLOR THE
HE triumphant Corona-
tion tour of Wales by the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh, who called at the historic Caernarvon Castle, scene of a famous investiture in 1911, has turned Welsh hearts and eyes to the infant Prince, Charles, Duke of Cornwall, heir to the Throne. And what everyone in Wales Is wondering la-when Queen Elizabeth II will proclaim and Invest him 13 Prince of Wales and Ear} of Ches- ter.
Throughout Wales these days there le being related the most famous of all the castle stories-- and one for which there is considerable, if not completely convincing. historic. evidence. It tells how King Edward 1, after building the seaward fortification of ancient Caernarvon Castle. whose other wall looks across the flat Welsh marshes, as a stronghold against
tho
wild Welsh chieftains whom ho wished to subdue, took his wife, Queen Eleanor, there in the year 1284 for the birth of her baby.
A PROMISE
When the child was born, Edward took him to the Queen's nwe-Tower and showed him to the
Bome atmosphere to the scene. chieftains of Wales, thus fulfill-
A sense of ceaseless, grief.
I anded the day with an perience that gave
me
was taken
ing his promise to give them u Prince born in Wales who spoke ex-no English. But It was not until more the boy was 17 that he went to
to think about, than aven the Wales to be invested as Prince Kremlin.
for and to receive the homoge "of dinner in a party of three to all the freeholders of Wales" in Caucarian restaurant, described 1301.
as "one of the best" in a town
green equal, For surely the essenco
cars. And
The authorities at the hotel had, on their own volition, hurriedly collected my passport from the police, who hold it while I am in
This ceremony took place not Russia, in the certainty that
The vast hall of the Order of rarely soon great live. In und where all restaurants should be at the Castle, but at Chester,
the pleasant of it would be required.
heavily. I had no coat. St George, which must be one out
choplet of gold placed round his Neither had Luba, While we of the largest and most impres square, round which the build of Socialism is that no man can where Prince Edward had a ings are set, glided a succession have better than his neighbour. head, a golden ring on his finger But not so.
As soon as stood in the shelter of the sive rooms in the world, with a of sleek black
I can only say in favour of and a silver sceptre in his hand. Luba-who herself had to gate, the officer spoke to a ceiling that seems to rise to the always, as one passed in or out
Since his day there have been produce her identity card soldier attending him.
breath-catching sight, of the main gate, a strident Socialism which, on the export- Hit by thousands of electric warning sounded and the guard ence of our brand at home, does 10 or 18 other Friners of Wales,
authorities not being the
quito gave my name, a smiling
not make much appeal to me in agreement as to the actual officer came up, saluted, and
I may say that these candies, not only hidden in the sprang to the alert.
many wonderful crystal and gold.
that this dinner will hen shook hands.
Boldiers guarding the gates chandellers, but set in hundreds It was the day when the treasured in manory as 919 of number. Of these the last in Hno to date and the seventeenth were the best I have eaten in my tor nineteenth?) was Edward, from Europe and life.
the eldest son of King George V, America. Was this the beginning
and now the Duke of Windsor. of fateful talks within those The caviar, smoked salmen, And finally did history move to walls that have seen GO much Caucasian muilon, and other that blazing day in June 1911, history made?
things less familiar to me, but when Caernarvon Castle was the equally delightful, could not have been bettered. And the helpings were enormous,
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were as well turned-out and in a single straight line running envoys of Soviot Russia as magnificently disciplined round a white marble cornice gathering as our own Palace Guards, just below the ornate calling. The soldier to whom the
officer had spoken doubled
quickly up the street, turned
MODERN HALL
into a building, and returned OR a few moments I enjoyed in a minute with two water. A the unusual experience of proof
he sitting in the seats of the mighty in the fine, new modern hall in which the Supreme Soviet meets iwice a year. ...
which capes, wrapped round us.
ALL SMILES
With
the diplomats boxes jutting from the wall, the sweep
I shook hands with my guido and escort, hoping, with all my heart, that it would be so..
SQUAT TOMB
Now that meal cost my host a❘ lot of money, reckoned in Eng- lish pounds, Altogether, I think a little more than £14.
"KIRTING"the"great"outer wall ̄ ̄"Ah, a ̈rich"man's restaurant," of the Kremlin, through a you will say. Nothing of the tree shaded, richly sart. There are no rich men's come a lovely, little, it has something of the look of to Lenin's tomb in the wide Red 1 know, because there are no smiling lady who was to be London's new Festival Concert Square, which always scams rich men. my guide, and up the little Hall.
strangely quiet and empty be slope we went. It was then
cause the traffle flows down only I discovered that this even the Czars, was, of course, the
The Kremlin, historic home of one side. ing tour was for me alone, first
When I was there last the Moscow building. It was That is quite an unusual the foundation of the great elty, original tomb was standing a honour, I have since been All the Czars were crowned not very impressive building into told by surprised foreigners there. Each has left his dis- which. long resident in Moscow.
FROM unother doorway of the balcony and the spread of pleasant,
stall chairs, across the main floor, flowered park, I walked round restaurants in Russia, so far as
I can only say, with some pride and gratitude, that I could not havo.been shown warmer
tinctive mark upon it.
AN AUGURY?
the oyo crosses
and black marble.
setting for a place of Royal pageantry unequalled in all its long history, a revival of ancient feudal custom more colourful than the reality of bygono cen- turies.
GOLD CORONET
Seventeen-year-old Prince Edward, barcheaded, wearing a short surcoat of purple velvet, breeches, and white silk stock- ings, walked slowly across the greensward to the dals where his father, august and regal in It was what In England wej his beardod dignity, awaited would call Д midde-class him. Before the fair-haired restaurant. The customers were heralds in their tabards, druids young - Princo there walked evidence of that.
and archdruids in their robes and Welsh Lords bearing his insignia.
1
FEW WOMEN
The King put a coronet of gold on the head of his kneeling son
millions of worshipping Russians passed every year, - Now, in its place, stands the permanent tomb of shining red MANY of them look like good, in token of his princely rank, u ardinery, working-class men verge (or staff) of gold in his of the Akilled artisan type. hand as an emblem of govern It is squat, solid, completely Incidentally, there. were Tow ment, aki a ring of gold on his Anger to algnity: his marriage. kindness or greater courtesy. THE Kremlin is a town within unadorned because mark woon. ·
with his people. And the sonor- walls, covering about 28 impressive because of its stark
simplicity.
These man wore all buying ous voice of the Home Secretary It was an extraordinary ex- acres, set on a hill which slopes
their dinnera qut of their ant Minister In attendance, perience. Behind our guide, from the heart of Moscow to a Unfortunately, it is now ordinary wages. Of course, the Winston Churchill, prostaimed Luba and I walked an officer, broad and lovely river.
closed, and has been closed for price to therm Wis smali in his tiles as Prince of Wales, Duke smiling all the time. Behind [him_walked · the soldier, also
Standing at a window in the come ume. So I could not roubles compared with what it of Cornwall, Earl of Chester.....
repeat the extraordinary ex- was in pounds. Probably one-
titles barna by the eldest son of smiling,
Palace of the Supreme Soviet, perience of seeing that long sixth of the price in pounds..
every English King since the Black Prince the river to dead body of the man who Whenever we walked into a another of the great old houses transformed Rumia lying us if But the thought that struck
At the King's aide was another building the soldier look our of Moscow which is now the he were asleep, si so lelike me, that has remained with me famous political figure of the day, capes and carried them unili wo Brillsh Embassy.'
ever since, and which I pass on trious Welshman, wearing the w
Mr David Lloyd George, illus emerged again, though he camo
to you, is this. Is it not odd familiar mediaeval garb as Con- round the building with ME 1 Wherever we went every light truido, and military escart 110 when the tomb was last open, trouble to ensure that her PSPPH who hail inspired the occasion Stalin's body lay beside Lenin that Russia should take so much table of the Castle. It was he was immediately switched on room in which I had lunched There is talk of another mauso can feed so well, having found and persuades King George to by hidden bonds I never saw.
with the ambassador the pre leum to bo bullt.
that austerity does not produce carry out the investiture a results, while we grub along on symbol of recognition for Welsh Bich, lotty corridors of spot- amilles and animation that you As I came to the tomb, the cat's meat, and are told to praise national sentiment and culture less white marble gleamed and would have thought we were guard wns changing, Two
and orly those who chuck it within the unity of the Crown. of sentries stand. permanently at us on the ground that they His inspiration, too, that after the shone as myriads of lights in the closest and friendliest dazzling golden chandeliers burst allies. I hoped that, waS an facing each other, with heads are so marvellous to get us even investiture, the Prince was shown into brightness. Massive, wido augury.
bowed and rifles grounded, un- that?
to the cheering Welsh on all four marble stairways, up which
moving, in the little alcove
tides of the Castle in solemn history has waiked for centuries, Wending our way to the gate, outside the low and not very I am inclined to think it is in, Just as the Sovereign is were lit as they are lit on the wo passed the row of pictures- wide black doorway of
the time we took a dimmer, grimmer shown to the people at a Corona- richest occasions.
que buildings in which the so tomb.
vlow of their competence. tion
JOHNNY HAZARD
LISTEN, BOVE...POPO
that he seems to breath.
When I painted out to
my
vious day, there were
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