1952-04-26 — Page 7

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, APRIL 26, 1952.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

ENGLISH styles coat drats in dark, grey woollen trasco material (by Marliit

ENGLISH style brawn tweed sult with_balkar__tuffs' tby Charles Creedi

HOW TO LOOK ELIZABETHAN

London.

THE Elizabethan look has bcen Inunched in London-for men as well

as women,

I

ero.

So

honey-brown mead WAS Four variations on the theme back the brim was bent back aro illustrated(See Sketch), close to the crown. With tho served as a refreshment.

You will recall the "Garbo wide trim at the front; it3] It seems that, the Elizabethans eaque" hats, with their high created a picture hat effect especially the man-were excrowns and eye-chading brims, suitable for a dressy suit, With tremely hat-conscious. And they which Miss Garbo has been the up-swept brim worn at the are cow having considerable in- wearing for seme years pact, front it turned into an off-the- Launching the look for nuence on hat styles and of and which M, Dior, introduced fuce-hat, a style many women wonion, was. Jeff, the course on hat sales. Firmly in with a flourish not lonit ago, profer. milliner, who showed

and for men the shape of the crown. There Jeff, after searching patiently were High blocked Crowns, through books on Elizabethan But men ara not taking to new line in hats, based on domed crowns and crewna quar fashions, nenounced that men their new Elizabethan fashions an Elizabethan theme, tered like a pumpkin. Secondly, were wearing the identical Wiring so enthusiastically.

were stift, rolled cr Pink Tudor roses decorated brims

four hundred years

A London store, thinking I Targo and floppy. Thirdly, fashion's wheel has come full was time to offer an alternative the lamps in his show trimmings were of minor in- circle. His "Elizabethan Garbo" to the old blue wilt, is promoting nee it was in room, sketches of clothes

terest. Surprisingly, since

Tudor Pink, with 21

an Elizabethan look for men. worn four hundred years was Easter week, but thank band of matching cord.

Tho designers are anxious, were no eggs, no

they say, to capture something ago hung on the walls, and fully, there

nowers, po chicks, no

Practical Note Easter

of the "magic and glory of that madness of any description. A

They have pro On soveral hats, Jeff combine fermer age". ribbon. twist of black velvet

of croded to do so with maroon pink cord or spotted silk tucked the twentieth century love

With the corduroys and blue Lovat practical flce a miniature ruft round the

of materials, Elizabethan Une. There was the Bannels by way crown and studded with thing hat with the convertible brim, and trousers (with apologies to stones, were all that appeared in which could be worn up, down Sir Walter Raleigh) which very the way of decoration,

or half and half. And there was very little from those worn by "Pack Hat", which, as it had Elizabethan sallors, Shakespearian Hues no stiffening, could be packed flat in a suitcase for travelling. conjured

If your boy friend does not Shakespearian pageant. Rusrei, like ft you can easily and un- (achtrusively dispose of it. Simply saffron, yellow, watchet soft, bright shade of blue) and tulce if uit, fold it up, and put it in your handbag. The Pack Tudor pink, followed one atte

other. the

Materials hardly Hat was shaped like a Mar

and sisal Stuart bonnet Elizabethan included

W

The Young Elizabeth, top lett. A black straw bonnes, framing the Take. It han frilling of while organdie and a matching ruff.

Elizabethan Jester, lower jeft, A muted green pastel fell, trimmed with a coiffe of plak and red clovers, gives the effect of the cap with belts worn by Shakespeare's Fools.

Weekend

Fotheringay.

top right. A Mary Binart cap in black straw. Watchet vel- vot lines the brim, and is used for the bow at the back and the long matching scarf.

Ascot Poacher, lower right. In black fancy straw, its brim is edred with white fancy "Biraw, "It has-y-bich-crown- which, although wide and wavy in the true garden party thick fashion, is at straw enough not to be "Happy",

www

ANGLO-AMERICAN

ANGLE

Well-dressed in London; well-dresood in Now York -oh! what a difference

6611/HAT," I said to the other

American woman, "Is the dif- ference between Д well-dressed Engilah woman and a well-dressed American woman? Can you always spot which is which here in London?"

She hesitated, "Sometimes," she said at lart. "It depends. You don't see much gaberdine around in London, for one thing." Too lightweight." "Noticed anything cise?"

THE SKIRTS-SO TIGHT "We buy lots more ready-made dothes at home." she said. "Take this suit I'm wcoring, for instance; I got this in a good department store back in New York. You wouldn't find anything like it here; you'd have to have it made. And even then it wouldn't be the same suit."

by Emily HAHN

Sketches

by

RIX

AMERICAN style. An Embase ANSTO tary warsa darb green alf. fun - pes American gilt with kipped-in wa střátækt ikke ka

said: "Do you think you gel a belter sult here than

home? you would at

"Well, I'm having one made in London," she said, "but the tallor and I don't Leem to have the same ideas. My

they make Silhouette, is made of a number coals, and skirts

kiris awfully fight here. of layers of sheer material, with New me, I like to have room to move dark crescent-like shapes, bold

These sleeves arc cam- ly large, appliqued on a palo around. Fortal... kind of half batwing." background,

"It's certainly a smart sult," I said, "but it wouldn't last as long as a good thick one."

"I wouldn't want it to. I wouldn't want to wear 11 for ever," she assured

me.

Colours

up

WIS striped coiton seer

Men Sceptical

These are

very nearly plus fours, Jackets have epaulets to the shoulders without broaden

padding, and pockets are placed high up near the collar,

Poga

PLASTIC

CAPES

For Kiddies

BRITISH

MADE

COMPLETE WITHA PLASTIC: HOOD.

IN PINK OR BLUB

SIZE 22-24

$9.50

SIZE 26-28

NOW

$11.00

ON SALE

WHITEAWAYS

In

Ilowever men are just a sceptical of the new fashions. It seems they prefer the old blue suit.

to

WHITE AWAY,

VAIDL

& CO. LTD.

hat had & wide,

straw, togel strip straw, light brightly weight felt, and, for one or two sucker.

Another hats, soft printed wool and gally fat brim at the front; at the By DOROTHY BARKLEY striped cotton seersucker.

TOW do you regard the bra you HH are wearing -us (a) just n necessary garment (probably pur- chased on a hit-or-miss basis) or (b) as an intrinsic beauty aid and a vital contribution to your glamour pro- gramme?

If your answer is "yes" to ques- tion "a" you'd better stop and think a bit for, according to the experts, your bustline is your age-line_and the wrong bra can add years to your figure. And who wants that?

Great care should go into the selection of your, bra, and, to aid you in choosing yours, we have asked Honry M. Flehn, the Inspirational force behind the well-known Peter Pan designs, for some tips that will help you to analyse your own figure type and, select a bra that will afford flattering, naturally rounded sil- houette. According to Mr Plehn. most women fall into three basic figure types:

1. The junior figure has a high firm

bustline with good separation.

She wears a bra to help preserve her natural contours. This figure can wear plunging. necklines which havo little or no

wired reinforcement because of the bosom separation. In keeping with the trend to- ward tight bodices, she may, wear a long- line bra to give her a moulded midrift.

2. The average figure has a more deve- loped bosom, placed somewhat lower on the Agure. She requires support from her bra to achieve a higher but not ex-

aggerated silhouette. A one or two inch band beneath the cup will help anchor the

and

bratching, sent in the

form of

or slight

ding, will give the lifted line, - Cups should be large enough to fit. Suffening or wiring around the plunge will achieve a better fit. A long-line bra that meets the girdle will do wonders far excessive flesh about the waist,

3. The full gure has a heavy bust which may be pendulous. Frequently fleshy under the arms and around the back, the I asked this designer's staff larger woman is best fitted in a reinforced what their considered opinion long-line bra. Wider shoulder straps night be on the American girl's eliminate cuting into the skin and Insure criticism. Nobody affirmed or mere secure support. The bra extending "American to the girdle is also contradicted;

style is very in- fashionable silhouette. Proper filling. Is

*sold they

am- always important, but it is particularly

true for the full figure.

They were stronge words women's to hear in an austerity dividual," country. Keeping them in biguously. mind, I made the cousas

of a few British designers' studios to see what Buemed outstanding to my American eye,

Tafloring was de significant thing, I decided-tailoring every though there were some other things well worth attention, too, and no one trend in general outline.

a means to a more

"A subtle aid.

THEY ARE SHOCKED

A subtle aid for the extremely small- Dress designer: No, 2 had busted, is a bra with the permanent inner another angle, "Americans are pad construction. Nothing to slip out of shocked by our prices some place, this garment washes beautifully time, mes

because they haven't and, with or without strops, creates a

lovely, in buying experience

fiat- rounded silhouette for the much models. You don't seem to go chested figure, in for custom tailoring there,"

Whether immature or developed, the teen-ager requires gentle support to keep body tissues firm. A good-fiting bandeau preserves rounded, natural contours and

fashionably mart.

·Drem designer No. 1, I found, has

I explained that there is good 'gone in for flared skirts for every- thing, even suits. It is a restrained reason for it. A custom-tailored costume In the States might flore, sideways, but not elther to easily cost five or six times as front or back. It is practically two-

much as the same thing in dimensional.

England,

Women are supposed to look broad from the front, they explained, and hardly visible at al from the side, One of the cocktail frocks, called

Watch Your Cosmetic Colours

the canvas

Since different necklines require dif- ferent bras, fashionable women co-ordinals "That is why they talk as they their bra wardrobes with their outer do," ho said.

"Orten

they wear. Strapless bras, wom more and say, 'Why, I could buy some more the year round, are ideal for off-the- thing like that in our depart shoulder evening wear, but can be worn ment store for thirty-nine fifty!' with other apparol as well.

true,

Lov.cut

IL'S

of course, that in cocktail dresses and daytime clothes de- America you can buy very good mand a plunging bra. things off the peg,' It's a com- pletely different system.”

I asked he did not think

more closes enen season. Oh yes,

By Bra materials

* Diversified, fabrics lend to the exelte...

..

ment in selecting a bra. For daily wear, many women prefer cotton, because 1.is absorbent, washes well and has a pleasant feeling next the body.

to

Nylon is an-

As blonde hair varies in spicuous and, if that's the case: Aineriean women were apt to buy rhades and character, to da it's all right for them. complexions. Some skins carry The lighter pink shades for he said: partly because of money cast. Some atn the checks are usually a safe sheriare here and partly because, it sh Ivory pinkith-yellow like the tea beauty bet with lipstick dari has eigs bren that wAY: BUEN

fashionable - Englishywnieni 1050 and very pretty they or, but of the same colour themselves down to castelo num other favourite because it dries go quickly are. Others are pale or sallow. family. If the skin is pale, ber of putta. He figures that", a after laundering and requires no Ironing

be svolded. really uplen wardrobe toy In all cases,

for true red

theo Important to the woman with a bury should

a golden whole year would consist of two schedule, Nylon marquisette is attractive facial painting

is delicate For the skin with

cocktail dresses, one evaolsa, one because background and thould be kept cast, especially if the summer morning, two suit topcost and

Leoling. in prime condition by the faith sun has touched it, there

To further co-ordinate bras with fach- ful

of oily cosmeties. Drange-reds that give richness the model in his collection most Lubelentis the skin arvod

and character to the Drama D CALLS WAS A Very lon, you can determine the proper degree.

dark thick wool, för

Modified control that is of um healthy,

The fair-haired sister can in- morning, allm in the: skirt.

accentuation, When putting on powder

she Then I dulga in one beauty prop

I said, "what vealing jersey tops and other clinging and the chase should match the uses testraint, places her mirror No alle og dress designer natural looking will be wanted under re-

would grow say, it 1 told you Engilsh einthès

cup bra achtoves & Filtched "mitis

well as dayling occasions

***So study, your own figure type, analyse it, then go forti to select a ma thale fune tional, feminine glamour giving, tooly

tags an extra jacket. I thought fashion. Its delicato, soft oppontaneo sav

rkin - fuffi on

an with the in a strong light. That's

it har orbs looze sait," was tile reply.

Jamb's wool pad, don't grind eye shadow of faint blus ifrate what an American thinks, natural build up appearance for dry it in. Brilliant shades of rouge her eyes are that colout, of do-2"pt, course, it's need to make a andi, Jipatiek

hazardous; llcate go green *Dr maks blande conspicuous au hazel, darker blus if her World Copyright | Roserved-- Maybe come desire to look con eyes are brown.

London: Expressi Servista e

Your guide

BY

MARILYN MARSHALL

Aglamorous figure, and Hollywood's pretty Vie in Maya comes by it naturally. No cause for worry, though; If Dame Nature has falled YOU for the right bra achieves the same effect

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