1951-09-01 — Page 7

THE CHINÀ MAIL, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 1951.

Pago--7

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

SUSAN DEACON takes her woman's column to Paris for this verdict on dress

In the collections of London's Big Ten,

IT'S THE SLIM. The Tailleur Line

Three hats

from Paris

RED LINE

From among the scores

of hats sath in Paris Jere is my choice of Three :-

The clocket 15 Ewan's feathers pleked all with fan-shaped black feathers. Abore

The shallow crown This is in scarlet velour with a cut-out brim; worn quite

Iraight with coarse rell

The triangle toque: Beaded and head-it- ting. it Datter the TheW ugszent ILAIT sirler. Detase

R

PARIS.

ED is the colour, wool jersey is the fabric, and "The Look" for next sea son will be narrow-chested with an 18-inch waist, upswept hair and a hat with a forward thrust.

Coarse-meshed vells cover the face only.

Predominates

By Dorothy Barkley

London.

Pride of place in the new collections of London's Top Ten designers Коев un- reservedly to the tailored It provides nothing suit. sensational or revolutionary; Londoners have always been fond of their tailored clothes, but only recently have they begun to publicise them.

number

of

Hair is upswept in the old wispy Edwardian style, and ward with a topknot of hair at the front. ★GRIFFE showed Legion of

Henour red as the most im The Fashion Week opened quietly in Lon-

Dubonnet (golden blonde don and finished in Paris with a beautiful.col-portant colour, followed closely

An increasing lection by Fath

brown). His calicetion, he says,

they not find such styles in their The London fashion news is in fabrics. In is "influenced by the Florenting overseas visitors say they can- cwn countries, not even in HARTNELL'S golden tinsel jersey dinner painters and the women

Immortalise."

The clue to the success He uses multi-coloured wool Paris, dress edged with mink; in DIGBY MOR-

the TON'S, black and white embossed velvet cock- jersey and long-haired angora of tailored clothes is in

wool which he designs in the dictum of a designer, "they don't tail coat; in PETER RUSSELL'S, flamingo New Moon theme, with curved only look well on a model in a

shoulders and crescent-shaped salon; you can wear them." pink cost of doeskin velvet.

TO COME TO DETAILS: reaming,

Hats small with

veils on ONE SIDE

London colours were mainly the red of a Guardsman's tunic, a subtle cyclamen abade used with myrtle green, and more brown than

black.

Hats in London are small with veils worn coats on one side of the face only. Tweed have high fur collars and cuffs, and the tailormades are, as usual, impeccably tailor made.

THE Paris collections opened with topline de signer JACQUES FATH'S winter collection, followed by GRIFFE.

mained faithful Some

↑

rounded of

His loveliest evening dress was more feminine tailored appear-

is achieved by Ance white Chantilly face threaded with

and

in gold | shoulder wcol

line, angoro

place masculine. built up. thread.

well- padded shoulders; well-defined SCHIAPARELLI is the only welstand where the waist has designer so far who has re-

not the "starved" look, there to inst ycar's

are shiny, black patent leather straight skirts,

of her belts shaped to create this effect. drtetes have bustles, but she Skirts are less straight. Jess

wide

There shows none of the pretty

severe, more feminine. th's collection. skirts

kir's seen in Fath's

Schiaparelli's fashion detail is are few of the "pin-straight" always amusing. This year hats, style, but many with panels of front or back. jackets, and stomachers are mad: pleats, either from tartan brushed wool which Jackets are classical in design.

frequently with

front-flared tacks like rainbow candyfoss.

Seme corduroy and wal barques.

THE TAILORED LINE, of jersey hats have schoolgirl pig- faits tied with a bow hanging course, is interprete differently from designer to designer, down the centre back.

sombre Col01175, Same prefer

bright want

coloura: others

concentrate on aults, some

dresses ani others jackets. Many have chosen dark shade of grey worsted- "flint" grey-for town suils, In preference to the customary black. This

admirably teams almost any colour.

Schiaparelli's new hemline- inspired, she soys, by the ebb puffed It was

Fath who made and flow of the scala

into ngathered roll round the the fabulous feather and hem of the dress. diamond encrusted wedding

gown for

the Shah of

the

evening

Persia's bride, and many of dresses in Fath's new collection have the same feather motif.

A

Puffs of swank fühthers and silver sequins almost completely cover a primrose silk full-length dress. white slipper satin evening dress is thickly massed with feathers pink curled swan

and shimmering pearl sequins.

A champagne velvet ball gown was encrusted with jet beads and the badler made from huge

curled black ostrich feathers. Feth showed hardly any strapless cvening dressCS.

Shorter than

the 1946 LOOK

Dinner gwas had black velvet bodices with sleeves,

and lace or organdle bill skirts.

The New Lock is back, for daywear, but is sharler than in 1040 with a wider skirt.

It has a bulk-up turtle neckline and a new sleeve This is a version of the called the Guimpe steve. Dohnan, but it is set into a point in the bodice and gives

narrow-chested lack to the medel.

Tent cats are full and circular with narrow sloping .houlders and a wide slurred hemline.

Fur trimming, either mink or nutria, is used on day? and evening clothes and on hais..

DRAPED jersey dresses for daywear have wide surde bel's with a Jewelled buckle and twerd dresses have fur collars.

A Three- and four-coloured dresses are popular, jersey day dress has eight-inch stripes in' pale and dark grey and black. A checked angera daydress was coloured In purple, green, belge, and pink.

Hair now upswept in

the EDWARDIAN STYLE

Hats in the Fath collection were sacp shaped and pushed well forward over the eyes. They were made from while mink, nutria, iris petals, velvet or felt.

IMPART INDIVIDUALITY TO

YOUR MANICURING wide, this specialist leaves a

Dolor your own nails isn't a bit difcult and there are many attractive shades from which to choose. There' is a type

bottle with handy finger rest. which comes in a

By HELEN FOLLETT

EXPERT Manicurists are very it is a bright idea not to colour clever in shaping the finger nails the hall moon at the base with

narrow white line along each side of the nail to impart an op- pearance of length.

Beccuse of the flot structure of a square nail it is considered unwise to allow the nail edge to: protrude for bevond the anger tip. It is usually best to round the nail into en are just beyond

of the customers, grooming them: polish. This takes a 1tle more the fingertip.

to produce the best possible time, but it imports style and always Individurdity. Perhaps you may

of the angertips, altho like to try that form of grooming

aldering the shape

hands.

As so many girls, rushed sometime if you have alender. If the nail of this character is

with it difcult to nails.

JODB 140

Jolter

the quiet and comfort

of-

fled short, and the entira sur- Pointer 2-A Cute Trick. We favo" covered with polish, the beauty shops, we pass along. some information that has been are also told that it is con- offect will be that of a chopped. passed, along to us by an audered a cute trick at the pres- off appenratice, unfailering to thority on hand loveliness.

Points from

THE SHOWS

... Flat buttons the size of a farthing or enormous buttons like cut-glass billiard balls. Black cabbage soses-worn in-tha Hair.... Peart and diamond doy collars worn together.... All. on day round pleated skirts

Hals drestes and suits, ... trinimed with shaved feathers.... Lace tabota in fashion spain. ... ffects higher than ever and Lapering to needle point. Gloves with ten-inch-deep fur - cups... Hatpins like tortoise

shell cigarette holders,

ite: the hands. ent time to trave z And white tine at the eaves. It arms that

this While we bre ̈or subject, this practice tends to make the polish Inst longer. Why that is, we would call your attention to your reporter cannot guess, but some of the now slindes" of

veneer pofnier

that are being offered. The slender nail there you cre! The beauty docco are lovely deep corals, a; losos charan, looks stubby, when or says so; that's all.

plomant change from the", dark it Jaled too short, nudi the. enver do not curve gracefully. Pointer 3-Illusion. When the ones we have been males for If the talon' is 'unusually long, naik are extremely short and such a long time.

-SCOTTIE SAYS-

* Don't juss, I've told you you look fine-your nose is perfectly shiny and your slip lead is showing at the back."

London Express Service

with

1s a

new trend in schemes: black

There colour

tar

are

and frequently combined and most becomingly.

To" complete

black and tan outfit, there are new. black patent and tan box shoes.

FOR MATERIALS. the great- est emphasis is on velvet, which is used from "dawn to dusk, and on to dawn."

There is a new "street" velvet, which seems to be spot and crease-resistant, and Lailors well. And the hats, too, and are frequently in velvet, always small.

Below, we have selected de- tails from several designers to show how much the tailleur has come into the Umelight.

LACHASSE

Mr Michael, of Lachasse, are of the most successful of this season's designers of the tailored suit, achieves hin feminine line by rounded shoulders with no padding, and

slightly emphasised basque. Skirts pre rarely pencil-slim; usually they have straight fronts, with fullness concentrated at the

First After the Embargo

Crested

***Thiên is the first photographs released after the Photograph Em bargo of the Collections, of London's Big Tens, the-ryul detiener Nerin

sown is fin dellorto shades of forma faltala underskirt: The fchu Conilupes lo

dewers

the

of box

back in the form picats, Inverted pleats or kilt- ed pleats. Jackets, without exception

have two back

vents. One of his most effec-

tive colours was o

"Yokewood"

which he trimmed with black. Day dresses, www

also very feminine, are in soft tweed mixtures, cut on casual

lines, with round neck, aloping

shoulders, and very full skirts, pleated all round. His cockinil ensembles.. these are always

the Important in

London collections are either corded silk suits, or lace-over-tafela dresses.

OF SPECIAL INTEREST: The now “brigand" collar, scell on suits and coats, Ja cut low at the back, sweeps IGund

the

face, to a high point by the right. car; a rich apricot yellow doe- skin jacket, wern with a dark dress and a sult material- plum coloured georgette mounted over green satin.

PETER RUSSELL

Bunidorn

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̈ANGORA AND WOOL MIXTURE

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Annoyed?

The tailored line is carried out here, with the recent on dress and jacket ensembles. There are many light weight woollen button - through dresses, with matching Jackets, cut on classical lines. These dresses generally had deep inverted pleat at the back, which was repeated on the Jacket, Mr Russell de- finitely has not restricted himself to sombre colours; his "flamingo" was a joy. He had flamingo doeskin

sults;

for rainbow striped taffeta cocktail dresses, and a barle- quin check coat, with flamin- the main colour, Ko 113

which he parts is doing well with American buyers. He trims his sults with phantom Relax

beaver,

and golden seal.

SPECIAL · DETAILS:

multi-coloured cummerbunds

cn wool

afternoon or silk dresses; tinel brocade ecck- tail dresses with matching hats; and pink lin'ngs to aprons on black dresses,

VICTOR STIEBEL

Skirts provided the main Insi terest here: seldom straight, though there is rarely much; fullness; often they are gored all the way round. Black and dark

grey, the

Princing colours, are never left alone: blue, scarlet, yellow, dove pink and rust aro the colours the accessories, which

frequently involvet.!

cf

are

get to Those

with

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