1951-08-04 — Page 5

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 4, 1951.

"Private Hoggswhistle, sir. Wishes to know whether his strong Left-wing tendencies will cause him to be. banned from leaving the country with the battalion next week."

London Express Service

The Wine That "Dries

JEREZ, Spain. Queen Elizabeth's day, when the ships of Drake and Essex put into the port of Cadiz- which they sometimes did for other than warlike pur- poser-their English sailors behaved as British seamen still do, and went ashore in search of a drink.

"Give us.rome of that wine from Jerez," they would pay, but bing, like most Britons, bad at foreign names, they called "Sherry" stead of "Hereth."

The result of this mispronun- elation is still felt by the sherry- growers, because, as there is no plate on the inap called "Shairy, they eve no rigat to claim it as a' trade-name..

All Dull And

Crudey Vapours"

By G. WARD PRICE

In

light in ground-level-warehouses of them. I am told, are content ́called "bodegas" which look like with half-a-dozen glasses, during the nave of a cathedral, their eight-hour day; for which these they undergo what sherry they draw in wages about five gowéra call their "education," shillings.

process requiring freedom from all bration, and renoloness The existence of your glass of from any other substance that sherry started when the email might affect the delicate flavour white glapes began to ripen one of the wine.

HALF-BUTTS

mid September. They were first piled for 43 hours in the open-air to dry, being covered at night against the dew. Then were taken to big they

Bat, irough, where, men underfoo! 10

The vineyard-owners of Ciram- pague or Cognac can prevecule apyone who sells a falze odust under those labels, bet The cuffivators of that 50-square-

In the wood that mile triangle of clay and he is still on the South-Western coast of sherry reaches Britain-not the Spain, where the real- sherry 110-gullon butts in which it has woeden grows, have no such protection, matines, but half-batts known trampled them beenuse English sailors three as hogsheads. The touling is press cut the julce, centuries ago were too muddled 'dune in Englari, fer there is a

That does not sound very to give the wine they drank is lower tex on wine imported in

casks. The Customs duty proper nec.

on appelslag, but the tramplers cach bo'le is 8s. 4d., which is wear rancial wooden - coled IN VOGUE

more

han the sherry-grower

We shods, which have rows of tin- contents. The charges for

tacks in them to hold the plus WHEN they got home, they casks in which it comes, of

tr WH

Eradually adopted for it the American white-oak, coopered by and the stalks. There need to a mediaeval guild of craftsmen be kept out of the grape juice are inside. This saves the wine, tannin. who char them by building a because they contain too much from taking on the taste of the

shorter ille of "ack." It was different from the kind of sherry that legain in vogue la Bekain toddy, being for one thing red in colour, but it was scon very popular with English throa's,

wood.

The sad thing is that an emply "If I had a thousand 22:15 "esid cask today is worth as much as Falstaff in Henry IV, the first full one twenty-five years ago, human Prinsole I would trach When the contents of the eneks them should be to forswear thin cent to Britain have been bottled, the hogsheads themselves inte petations, and to addle! them- selves to enske." And he adds the new role of maturing

Apeed Sherris-racke whisky. later,

a twofold operation in it.

The bodegas have fled mechanical crushing, be it does not give as good results as the traditonal method, though a reeend preting is made with

screw-press.

5

The resulting mosto, or grape- juice, is run off into 110-galion casks, and left to ferment for the period a noise described

Spaniards use a special tulpe og

three weeks.. This

to nt;

appreciate

escends me into the brain, and shaped glass for sherry, tapering which makes

"tumultuous fermarlon." diles me there all the toplish. tewards the brim. Connoisseurs dull and crudey vapours which first take hold of the base, and as like distant thunder. environ it....The second grraire the glass so perty of your excellent Shertia the colour of the wine against the the light. Then they test its finally rolling ároma with the nose before longue.

round their

is the warming of the blood."

The popularity of the present day sherry-party would suggest that, the modern descendant of, "Fack" hes retained

thece adinirable qualities. They are the

product sembled

of skilled blending

with

ogc.

They'

appeal, moreover, wi

range

of taste, for of

there are 150 types ranging from the_light"| dry плох

sherries

with their clean Ravour and only.

How many glasses a day can drink without developing, a :ilver?" I asked the head of one

famous Arm.

NO HARM

THE BLENDING

SCUM known as "flower of „fermentation”, forms" on the surface. In the case of other wincs this would not be allowed. but is gives to cherry lla peculiar chargeter. As the cooler duluma weather

on, the wine comes clears, the sediment falling to the bottom as white scales.

It la orly this stage that the sún proprietor of the bodega"

E coked at me I same. tell whether his, sherry is to be

15 percent of alcohol, to the astonishment, "I and most of of the pale-and-dry or

brown therries, which are

dessert wine, and have been fortified with brandy up to an

my friends take about a dozen brown-and-sweet variety.

dally, and never feel any harm," he said.

tho

The next process in a sojourn

la 12,000-gallon, blending (anks,

18 percent content of alcohol, 18 23 reassuring to see that in where the wine is kept to see Sherry improves in wood, but the bodegas, where the wine is how. It shapes before it is put not in boltle; provided that it is, blended and matured, there into the solera or "nursery," in kept at an, eŋuable temperature stands à barrel, to which em whilchi 118 carefully-watched

one above the other. and the wine is promoted” from one row? to another, as It Improves in quality.

1s

To ensure consistency, never more then half-a-caskful

ranferred from one stage of maturity to the next. The older -wing left in is thus able: taj

educate the younger that is added to it, until at lost it is ready for shipment."

The stów process ci agring sherry entails the need for considerable 'capital since -stock-in-trade ‘- stayi valuable long idle without bringing any- thing in,

There are five Brlish - Arms engaged. In the sherry trade- same of them among the most famous. It is a. dignified business, conducted on traditional Ines. Thus the vineyard pro- -prioʻors-do-not-devi-dl ret-WIN the: manufacturers, but only through brokers.

BIG FIGURES

IT may sound an easy life to let Imre and the provide, one- with a maritetable product. The cherry-barons" certainly

arc

big figures in Andalucia, bu: the price of producing good sherry is eternal viyllance, A single inistake muy ruin hundreds of gallons of wine.

Sherry is conscquently watched and recorded with selen!iñe oc- curacy. Each firm maintains a laboratory in which samples are kept of every shipment. The next glass of sherry you hold in your hand could be traced back, if necessary, to one parll- cular cask in the far-off south- west corner of Europe.

of about 00 degrees in a dry ployees can go and; draw off a maturing, la carried on. The "Watch I can see your aimorphere, sheltered from the "glass of any time they like. Most sclera consists of rows of butte -:ips moving

NANCY

SHE'S KINDA.

GUTE

Too Many Curls

NEVER SAW,

HER BEFORE

By Ernie Bushmiller

WONDER..WHAT HAPPENED TO THAT. PLANK IS WAS PLANING

IS YOUR

Wit

Charactonym

femineered?

[Explanation: Seo below) IF you were asked which

ten new words becamo prominent during the past Pear could you name them? No? Well, here they are:- AIR COACHI — airliner with Inexpensive accommodation.

ALOMETER instrument re- cording tho beat of a bird's wing and so the distance flown..

ASTRONAUTICS-science of travel between planets,

AUTOTRONIC ELEVATOR— automatie, e extronleally opernt- ed lift capable of moving ot

700ft. per minute.

BOOGIE - WOOGIE BOAT— experimental K.A.F. bont

started, reversed. and stocred by different muilcai tones trans- mited by radio from a mother ship.

"ÏOPERA~a_night

club or restaurant specialising in "bop." CHARACTONYM—a charuc- tera outstanding occupation or trail

by

-FIVINEERED-designed

a woman,

QUEUETOPIA — the Utopla the Socialists, sallent characteristle of which is q5- sumed to be queues (Coined by Winston Churchill),

SYNFISH an artificial sea food resembling asli in taste.

These and countless other facts and Agures are given In the 750,000-word Britannica Book of the Year, 1951, annual supplement to the Encyclopaedin Britannica, just published at

£3.

Here's a selection taken at random.

When you say a woman haa " gultar look," It means her waist is narrow and her hips and bust wide.

There were 771 million horses, 730 militon sheep, and 270 million pigs in the world.

Population of China Is 475 million, United States 150,097,- 301, and Commonwealth 01 Nations 597,504,000,

William Brown

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