1951-02-10 — Page 8

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PRESS PHOTOGRAPHS

Coplox of photographa takon by the. South China Morning Post, South China Sunday Post-Horald, China Mail and Hong Kong Tolo-

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NOTICE

The Telephone number

of the Kowloon Branch

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Stuart

ما

18

Stuart

Group of sketches (ex-Men Are Such

treme left) shows modela from Ronald Peterson's collection. (A) the fin skirt which also appears Charles Creed's and Hardy Amies'; pleats at the back were made to stand out like the fins of

at

fL

fish scen nt (B). Michael of Lachasse showed an interesting variation on the straight skirt. Instead of cutting the pleats (C) at the back In one with the skirt, he had B separate panel which swung out attrac- tively. (D) shows the buttoned basque which compliments the waist.

The remaining group of sketches shows the general lince of Charles Creed's collection. The notable features are long revers which reach almost down the waist and gilot-front jackets cut like waistcoats.

First Thoughts on the Couture

L

women

Collections

LONDON.

- By Dorothy Barkley –

of colours for the

But divided by bead embroidery.

Even

had the mannequin

keeping in

the largest Imagin- control 10 the

pro-

difficulty crinoline-the able under crowded salon. He showed a frivolous evening hat made to look like a white mask with a down trail of foothers long beside the face.

VICTOR STIEBEL introduced starched linen collars and cuffs of various shapes, some with frult (strawberries or apples) or

mimosa) flower (carnation or decoration.

Michael Don's collection,

spring. replaces there is a new shade of grey, ONDON designers work Lachasse who

Molyneux among the exclusive called "thunder grey," which is on the assumption ten of the Incorporated Society much warmer than shades seen that the majority of of London Fashion Designers previously. There are no violent in England have showed an interesting variation colours as Hard Amies put it, "the tangerine colours launched average, not model, figures, on the straight skirt.

last year have been sent to the and that only a

very few

But for country wear, the laundry and have come back have figures resembling skirt plealed all round is still faded." Tones are muted, with

wisteria and sandstone that perfection of propor- the first choice.

minent in all collections. tion we recall seeing in Paris. Couturiers here re- member those few extra inches, and design according. ly. They realise, too, that women need clothes that .will carry them through with ease from 9 to 6 geveral through the queueing, the shopping and the travelling And, whatever Paris may say, they like to have clothes which enable them to do it all in comfort, as well as style.

This year, therefore, the skirts! in the spring collections although they are neat and straight, are που pencil-sim. Designers have tried to give case for walk- ing and freedom of movement by providing skirts with groups of pleats and flying panels.

Illustrations on this page show skirt details from Ronald Pater-

It's Simply Attractive

By ALICE ALDEN

THE sheath,

well-handled,

that Remembering

London designers can, and do, stoop to flattery, we find that unes on as the buttoned jackets, such basque illustrated here, com- pliment the waist, even if it is not already there.

lines of

used

The most striking of new materials we have noticed was

DIGBY MORTON also fringed silk which has been used by several designers. The fringe flowers for decoration; mimosa seems the most popular of all the is half an inch in depth and

yoke

of a dinner gown. Wicker Dibgy Morton made it into an spring flowers, and filed

has often been used elegant dinner gown, which was worn with

successfully for hats but Digby Morton

by showed ingenuity by chiffon stole.

As always, the main feature making the strapless top of an

NORMAN HARTNELL'

multi-coloured work a

The sketches here show the CHARLES CREED's collection. Suit Jackets down as dar as the one button at have long revers, often reaching the waist; several sults had gilet front jackets cut like waistcoats. One of his suits, in navy blue

Was his evening Informal party dress of plaited allk, was entirely reversible, collection spotted on one side, and checked dresses.

Magnificent crinolines raffia. Its bodice was edged all way round with grape on the reverse.

and ivy-a sparkled with embroidery. One the

was of hyacintha, violets Navy blue and white still hold called "Harlequinade" the first place in choice of pastel-coloured organza squares flower basicet effect.

at

America's "Ten Most

1

Beautiful If's"

NEW YORK. They howled from coast to they coast. They protested, denied, they loosened invectives, they slashed with the broadsword and parried with the rapler.

first

the on Mr Roon's list in place." (The incorrect pronamela- thon of Mr Roon's name was Miss Darcel's.)

Anne Jeffreys, star of "Kiss Me Kate," couldn't agree that her derriere needed reduction. he

This was the collective reac- tion of the Ladies chosen ten most beautiful women in America if they would only lose ten pounds,"

"Mr Roon," she said, "is look- ing at my bustle, not me. I wear one in the show because in one scene I get a violent spank- ing. I am spanked eight times a week. It's well pounded." "Ten

Their sole target was Al Roon, body conditioner and reducing expert, who took his life in his hands by selecting the Most Beautiful If's"

Fighting Back

And the girls came Oghting back, led by Talulah Bankhead, who, Roon said, has "too much around the rectus abdominis re- glon (the waist)."

"I really haven't got a minute, Dahling," Miss Bankhead said. "But I never heard of this Noon person and furthermore he's the first man who ever sald I should lose weight around my waist, and you can tell him for me, Dahling, that unless he keeps his utterly absurd opinions to himself, he might find himself losing a little weight around the ears, and besides...."

Marguerite Piazzo, opera star: "My weight varies but it's never 10 pounds more than it should be. Mr Roon must be looking through a magnifying glass. I still wear a 12 dress-model size."

Picked Wrong Places

Eloise Mollhone, of television: "I agree about the 10 pounds but as usual with a man, he picked all the wrong places."

Roon sald Eleanor Steber, opera star, could improve her puro and voice through inter- costal breathing and exercise.

Pockets gave the London designers scope for originality. MATTLI introduced an unusual 'gun-holster pocket; the material was doubled back to stand out of the stiffly on either side Jacket front.

PETER RUSSELL showed a number of three-piece ensembles in angora wool. He calls his colours wisteria, lichen green and young carrot. The dresses have tailored jackets to match with topcost matching but generally of heavier material.

The Pale Porcelain Look

New York women are en- thusiastic about the new "white look," that fragile porcelain make-up. One New York store says women are talking about pale faces. They see the white look as an important expres- slon for spring.

Some

for

Roon picked the thighs and

buyers feel that this calves. She didn't locate the extreme white-face-and-red- lips make-up scheme la suit- critical areas.

able for everfing only, while suggesting much lighter powder and make-up foundation day-wear than last year,

They see the look of per- "I'm flattered," Miss Stebercelain pale fragility of this now answered, "to be classed with make-up tanlon as something theatre women. But that goes with crisp such beautiful what is intercostal breathing?sults

Intercostal, he said, is through

Lana Turner, for whom a the cheat general reduction was suggested, replied with icy brevity: "Nothing is given to profusely as advice."

Roon claims Jane Russell is

or flowing white tulle Or did he mean inter-coastal?" gowns. Some stores will do In two cases where Roon had windows on evening fashions four inches too big across the recommended a general trim-featuring this treatment, bust or, as ho called it, the ming down, Frances Langford pectoralis muscles, both major couldn't be reached and minor."

To which Miss Russell replied: "I don't know what picture Mr Roon was looking at but in my Inst four alm 1 weighed 14' pounds less than I did in

with a discreet bit of glitter, is the Outlaw' or Palator

going to be seen a lot at parties. Hannah Troy does a charmer tuffetn In charcoal gray pik and studs the chemise bodice with pearl tour drops. Dosely- ingly slim to the tye from the the back of the skirt is

graph Staff Photographon MORNING POST, LTD

aro on view In tho

Morning Post Building,

ORDERS BOOKED

52038

Striguingly, cut in, the trumpet

reds for easy movement,

maseulne

agree on All buyers for com-

000 there thing:

will be many ment and Faye Emerson could

women to whom the appeal to femininity will be great and they are the ones who will be especially interested in looking fragile as a China eup.

but didn't. Misr Emerson sug-

stod that other opinions be cought.

Skitch Henderson van asked. He said, "I couldn't agree with mant. Honestly, I couldn't." the man.

Henderson recently married Miss EmnerZON.

To which her studio added: "Much has toon said about

Since Roon specialises in tak- her pectoralis muscles, but this ing pounds off women, we also Is the first time we received a sought out a man who specialises complaint."

·

in

putting pounds on them. Sald

El Boraceho`remaurant:

The

ATO

10 Pounds Too Sexy Niccolo de Quattrocioschl of the With Gallic intensity. Denise Darcel diagreed with Roon's This contention that sho is 10 is a number that won't love its pounds too sexy." glamour no matter how many times it is worn, for it is bright und anart yet not too obtainave or, stuntled.

Thore is only one place I could lose 10 pounds and, if I did, I'd be fat and 'wouldn't be

man must be put of his mind.

Why, that's the very roa- 4road .vomen famous--their anten wolght in the rigdat placox. Curvoa make a woman a froman.”

Well, that's Imociated Pres.

BAD BUY'. Nightdressca which pull away at the seams, Detti- costs which tray at the bustling, and French knick- ors which pull and fray xt. the centro seams,

All of them "bad bays.” And they wore mado from hard-wearing, long-lasting ́and expensive NYLON,

straight,

Skirts were mostly Jackets tailored with long sleeves, and some were of the battledress variety-he politely called them lumberjackets. For r, he has favoured evening wext, the double decker, and this line: was seen at several collections...

falls from the skirt

a lited bodice in two tiers.

Bores-Over

A New Hat

WHY do women get a littl

encouragement from men to dress well7

Whatever

or their politics personal tastes, men are united when it comes to women's clothes,

They become bores, repealing the same feeble jokes about our spring hats and Bophisticated accessories.

DO THEY do it, to discourage further spending, or aro they afruld that praise would bring forth more eccentric styles?;

The new trend LONDON

Which

or Paris? country leads the world in fashion design? With the open- ing of the Spring Collections in London, and in Paris, the usual comparisons will be made.

But there la no comparison, because we are selling different things.

PARIS, of course, launches

...

the 13

the new fashion trend

She the Look. selling ideas.

Hine

and

the

IN LONDON, our designers are selling elegance, craftsman- ship,

and fallormades, people are coming in increasing numbers from all over world to buy London fashions

ALTHOUGH only 50 buyers sow the London Collec tions last season (they pay £50 to go in) In comparison with the hundreds of buyers

who went to Paris (there a buyer £100 to look at payu collection, and forfeited

soured.

If

no

each

this money is

purchase 1s our export figures

the

Norman Hartnoll, famous for his ball gowns, showed a 50 per- cent export increase on

and Digby previous

year, Morton, famous for coats and suits, a 100 percent increase.

Details from the collections: made),

of the SATC gloves made material as the suit....whic navy worn gloves piped with with navy ond white checked suit.

large black rose on lapel of blue Linen sult....pockcots on evening

dress sequin broidered....cont Lnings match- ing gloves and dress, in parti- oular a black coat lined with blouse made pink....frat and

cm-

of the same material....narrow black velvet choker worn with velvet belt on lime green eyeh- ing dress.

Paris

The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers alm in

develop their slogan "to the export of London fashion and British fabrics,"

This, I think, they are doing very ably.

-(London Express Service)

Latest

Famous Paris hairdresser Antonio introduces new styles; a unique and novel way of keeping the hair in place at the back instead of using slides.

Lace Strikes A Strong

Note For Spring

Frills are capturing the necklines of neckwear and blou- settest planned for spring in the New York market. Laco in everywhere bordering wide winged collars, panelling the fronta of bodices, edging fluffy jabots and neckties and finishing ab breviated sleeves--and high necklines are almost the rule this.

season.

Fabrics, for the most part, are sheer with bathate, nylon Pique is softened and cotton organdle on the preferred-list. by generous insertions of Irish Ince with fewer untrimmed pique styles. Organdle is expected to be big. Buyers are dom already, and organdlu ported to be making for these types iends itself well to soft outlines.

Femininity is the high sign for spring, and soft pastels. and warm high shades such as melon and violet are to bo featured. Red or navy embroidery on whffe, noon at several' resources, is mentioned as having strong appeal.

Sleeveless blouseties are projected as stronger than ever, but a long-alooved blouse in pastel batikle with elaborately- tucked front stands out as neway.

Jabole and amail-tle necklines are expected to click, and bibs and aquaro fill-ina for U-necklines are predicted to have a wide appeal,