1949-09-21 — Page 10

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THE CHINA MAIL, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 1949,

Woman Today

INFLUENCES OF MANY COUNTRIES HELP SET STYLE IN NEW YORK

By BARBARA

E. SCOTT FISHER

19" X

Some 22 ready-to-wear houses have just complet- ed press showings of their fall and winter collections under the auspices of the New York Dress Institute.

**

Besides these, among others, ready-to wear collections have been shown by Castillo te Elizabeth Ardeni, Sophie, Orl-j......... xinals of Saks Fifth Avenue, Lilly Dache, and Gallagher Mesh, Inc., a new house specialising in: a seasoned fabric designed by Louis Barnes Gallagher,

As the most prolific fashion een- tre in the world, it is only natural that the names of the designers of these houses have become bywords with women of fashion.

People who evaluate clothes recognise

A Claire McCardell model at a glance Clean-cuit, casual typically American in feel- ing and design this season she stresses a pointed bandana neck- line and a bandana collar which daubles frequently for a hood, and dresses with companion capes or stole-jackets which com- tinue this triangular line in sil-[ houetted.

Slim, Yet Rounded

Close on her heels for clothes of equal American charm and distinction is the collection Brigarice designs for Charles Nutelmann, the first to be co- crdinated by this designer exclu sively for one establishment vet rounded. Dresses arc sfir, yet Shoulders natural, supported with deftly handled padding.

Coats in the Brigance design lean to small tidy collars, adapt- able affairs which are equally effective open or closed. Prin- cezs coats, those with belted bloused backs, as well as those cut with a loose, slender linë in- dicate the exit of the voluminous

designs

Story by

EDNA MCKENNA Drawings by ILONA

Black is

back

17 15 THE COLOUR" OF fashion for Sommer- 1949:

Scarcity of dyes during the war meint that black was Out." Now women have rediscovered the sheer flattery of black under a clear blue sky for=off-setting; a sun- tanned எ peaches-and-cream complexion:

But it's not just that "little black dress" any more.

little

That

black-costume.", that little black playsirit," and even that "little black"swim suit агр all starred for the sun,"

Black linen, cool and urban, is

a favourite for dresses with cool square Dior necklines. Silky rayon, Shantung and poplin are a choice for dressmaker suits with "faintly bloused backs, white sleek nylon: and satin make swim suits that glisten like sealskin in’the sun after

bathe.

It is elegant to wear black by it- self. It is even more elegant to electrify it with a single note of Contrast.

www.

At a recent dress show 1 noted a tailored black, suit worn with an eggshell hat in white piqué; a black cock- tail dress with Roating chit- fon skirt and a belt in which was stuck one Enormous ro- mantic pink`rose; "a" linen dress, big pocketed, and with a duck-egg blue scarf in the neckline

And since it has become the thing to wear a suit with the neckline filled in with a rope of pearls or coloured beads, many stores-are-selte ing ropes of chalk white beads, nearly two feet long,

Ina Leser's Tina

intrigue because she has a way of en- brecing the whole world in her facile adaptations. These in- clude the kimono neckline straight from Japan, its typical fat fold finishing the surplice

Crossing

women and indispensable. The rod. and her own appealing Car-cuffed collar and pockets edged street dresses with padded short fabrics drape. well, and end negie blucs.

with lace, makes a useful short jackets like those worn in North themselves to the snug-fittingBen Reig likes a dash of old formal China: slit-front Syrian aprons, high necklines and tight sleeves Spain and in costumes with old Dior in his second American from

Damascus over bright slim Mr. Sondheim features with such Spanish romantic touch you trace collection likes the cossack, fin- wood dresses; linen blouses worn distinction. In pewter shades, the hand of Omar: Kiami, who pudence of full-backed bloused with woolens, skirts and jackets seal brown, and

black, these grew up just this side of the tunics with clinched-in belts and woven in checkerboard patterns, neutral shades carry over from Mexican border in Galveston Birting peplums above slim skirts

from the French daytime ensembles a light touch

to evening He likes the swish

High-cut, stiffened, lapels lift the court in costumes with cataway gowns, many of which continue peacock fantails and godets in normal shoulder, large tur murs. coat for daytime and theater ankle-length.

black crepe

15 Argen dresses,

give an effect of sattuessa traj. wear.

coats

and frt of

All come in fabrics and Paulines Trigere with her deft tina daunted them buttons, inį senting his own collection, «de- in ber Spanish Joseph Halpert besides pre- colours to make your head swim. French training, background, and dances Many, bone.

In suit and coats the label of humour evolves fashions with straight or meandering lines, the signed in the American mood, Pented

and the companions it with French designs. Mangone has always re- the smiling enigmatic appearance spiral sheath gwn.

the tradition hist of a Monaf Her Gothes smooth fitted tunic-hint a Spanish of Jacques Fath Mr. Fath stresses.

evecing the winding contour and manages background, fine Italian tailoring invite the wearer to bring them lefuence while for

give a siin sil He believes in the panel back on alive in her own way, to endow excitement the filmy black of marvellously to

-end suit

skirts, in the them with her own distinct in- Spanish mantilla laces completes houette while utilising yards of three-piece cape suit the cape dividuality.

this picture

fabric. rather on the short, narrow side, [~

In his first ready-to-wear col- The entire

fall fash lection for Elizabeth as well as the bloused look iz

Arden, Casons slightly in price will both coats and suits.

tillo. also signifies his inity unfold as the days grow shorter, with a Spanish background, in and each will find in it something This season Trigere again ad- his delicate use of mcrustations to make his own **** vances the tightly clasped cocoon of black velvet filigreed, in -The Christian Science

afternoon

Monitor. both in inger-tip tanciful designs Velásquez Monte Sano and Pruzin declare silhouette and demonstrate their idea that length in black plush, and in and evening dresses as

with vivid red silk satin 2 cape of black tweed Lined might have painted them 10+

Coot As A Frame

Cocoon Silhouette

fall

verted fullness gives fluid curves

the cout must frame the gure This is true of both their dressy Her nomino-coat, in char~| atid1long lines to his dresses ond.

coal-checked fleece, Lined with contained 2 kg gold-tooed wool jersey, is effet- jersey dress live above a wool

spectator coats which often fea ture Linton tweeds, and of great coats of soft chinchilla designed with supple lines-through the armholes.

of slim proportions in the same

Flared Calyx Skirt

He uses-the-calyx skirt-flared Bringing out a new line of bal colour. She continues her short at the bem, the fantail overskirt lerina toppers, Mr. Monte Sano domine coat, and brings into the acheive contrast between far limelight also street-length eve-ing and slim lines. Black chiffon

broadcloth indicates his belief in these use-

and black velvet, to feminine skin ful short coats.

both so flattering He says, "Theyning coats sufficiently simple so

and

his

wear

above short, gold-tissue

Two new fabrics are used by theater dresses and little,-black-toes, pale chalk blues

ivory saling and Titian reds are

satin theater suits.

One is a crisp absented "Little suits" this sea stand out. *

are here to stay."

Herbert Sondheim in presenting

scattered through the collection. As usual, Hattie Carnegie's Marvellous coaty to wrap about definite always

and to

collection overflows with clothes w the point collection, Both

you, one with a long scarf to are which enchant both the wearer rush about your throat, another dull of texture.

the

beholder, from

with bloused deep-pleated back, fine-ribbed bezgaline called "crepe

the other, a son with tiny finger-tip pockets, ottomaatte and

Lilly Dache, with a milliner's crease-proot twist yam crepe to the last word in dazzling ball feeling for detall, brings an en- Both are used interestingly to gowns in satins, brocades, and develop those fine basic dresses laces of Ince gold, a mad Madad chanting black satin ribbon dress to the centre of the fashion stage.

Eta introduces an

interesting alpaca fabric which has no re lation to the shiny old-fashioned the feeling textile, and look of faille, and is perfect for the graceful one-piece dresses with the two-place look which as well as for the she designs, very popular coat dress, Winter lace on winter

winter taffeta, with; izs

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