1949-01-19 — Page 8

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"THE CHINA MAIL, WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 19, 1040.

TABU Woman Today Renommée

the forbidden perfume

Dana

Sole Distributors:

SMART

COATS

WITH FABRIC

By Jana Barry

Perhaps the oldest known vanity of woman is fur, but in modern times furs lost their appeal to many women because of the cruelty of trapping fur-bearing animals for purposes of personal adornment. Quite recently, however, the practice of raising foxes, mink, and other animals on farms has eliminated this particular feature in connection with some furs used in fashion. Fashion itself encourages the Note that many of the leading business of the fur farm, since houses stress the smoother polta, most of the fashionable furs of ocelot, broad-tail, beaver, and the today are cross-breeds the closest curled netrakhan, rather than the longer-haired pelts which platinum-fox and platinum-

dominated last season. mink. In France fur farms or ranches ground.

are rapidly gaining

USE

FUR

FASHION DESIGNER'S IMPRESSIONS OF H.K.

By JANET MARTIN

Miss Tina Lesor, well known American fashion do- signor, has arrivad in Hong Kong on a round- the-world tour in search of new ideas for noxt your's fashions.

Miss Leser, who won the Caty Award for designing

in 1945 and the Alleman Marcus-Award-in- 1946, is chief designer for leading fashion houses in America. She, lectures at univer- sities and, in her spare time, designs gowns for some of the famous stars of stage and screen.... Among her first impressions dresses are long. thay give of Hong Kong are the rich-botter balance to the figure. ness, and beauty of the Chin- Headline news for the summer ese silks and brocades, some are the glamorous new

Irridascent cotton talfoto: for of which she has selected to town wear, coltons brocaded like damask, brocaded eatton The Chinese girls," she says, prints, applique linens in con- "have excellent taste in blending trasiing colours. Full skirted colours, and their accesories are styles, with all-round fulinoss will particularly well chosen." She still be popular suminor wear, would like to see less embroidery and are firm favourite with the on some of the gowns, for too much teen age group fashions. is difficult to take in all at once and detracts from the beauty of the work..

take back to the States.

cottons,

This winter skunk, fox, racoon; etc., have fewer followers and are largely relegated to sportswear, In recent seasons there has been with the exception of fox, which a big increase in the variety of maintains its appeal for evening furs used by the leading Paris wrap. houses. The novelty fur, amusing Interesting new developments in to look at, inoxpensive to buy, and the working of furs have been often the fashion hit of the non-shown in Paris recently, Many son, was less common in France coats are worked in bands such as than in the United States during mink, kolinsky, ermine, and fitch; pre-war years, but shortage of and even musquash is diagonally costly imported furs during the treated across the backs and in war years taught French furriers the sleeves, with the pelts worked

Gay Play Clothes to manage with little.

vertically down the fronts. There

Play clothes, Miss Leser claims, is leas emphasin on yokes and very

Amorica's contribution to Mias Leser finds material for re First Place in Popularity fow sun-ray effects are used from ideas and inspiration for modern world fashion. Play clothes ara

This winter ganther han Arst the back of the shoulders,

fashions among the decor, art and Ray clothes, for any time of the place in popularity. Not This is partly due to the fact porcelains of the East. Fashion, day or night when leisure hours furrier's collection without its that collars have taken un now she belloves, is becorning universal are to be enjoyed America under- panther coat, not a dress collection Importance and many fur coats Just as the Chinese girl, with stands them and combines the without its panther-trimmed coats, have high-standing directoire colher traditionally styled gown, can gayet mixtures maybe a lars, some of the astrakhan models use many of the accessories from handloom woven skirt, swinging from Ravillon's collection being the West, so the West can take full, with a piala tailored blouso embroidered with soutache braid in ideas from countries all over the

T jewelled apron skirt

top order to give them additional world, an, for instance, the man-

ped by a plain black sweater, stiffening.

darin-style embroidered Jackets

Accessory notes to remember in- which are enjoying a vague for clude hats.. small and side stop- avoning wear.

ed, with bigger ones to come for summer. Shoes are simpler .... Modern Inspiration

the swing back and the platform sole are right out. Her mission is to bring the Feature pockets are nows beauties of the floo-arts, previonship pockets and bustle pockets a casually knotted silken cord, at ly available only to the wealthy which add Interest to back full- the throat, otherwise it falls un-and the collector, as inspiration to nosa Jowellery Zastened to its hem.

C. CORDON & CO., (HK) LTD.Jackets, and even dresses.

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A magnificent ranch mink coat by Calman Linka showing the four-fold back --and softly rounded shoul- ders. The sleeves are wide, narrowing to a turned-back cuff at the wrist.

a

White Russian ermine is another

Single Hook Or Button Fastenings are a point of some Importance. Nearly every straight or loosely fitted fur coat owng to: a single hook or button, sometimes

The average redingoto is belted at the waist, or wraps over to close with an invisible hook at the waist. Buttons are right out of the picture just now,

Half And Half Combination

.

Where abort wraps of the jac- ket or swagger-coat type appear, thero in unlimited variety from which boleros are not excluded.

The most popular line of alliis that with a swinging back, often with a stiffened backward jutting line bonoath which you must allow for a pencil-alim skirt if the effect is to be what Paris orders, Cor tain boleros following this trend are little more than short circular сара effects into which sleeves are mounted.

Capes of all-lengths from the shoulders to the thighs are much An evidence. Among the most offective are the broadtali capos shown by Pierre Balmain with linings of smooth facecloth in pastel colours, Mauve-gray broadcloth may line a black broad- tail capo, while a

dusky

Hiac-pink lining in equally effe

effective, Colour ful linings dominate throughout

fur featured prominently as the range of 1948–49 furs, Jacques trimming on black this season. Helm introducing a checked wool Black velvet jackels for late after lining to a sealskin cout, while

noon wear come trimmed with Molyneux favours light green or ermine collars and little barrel- pink satin nings in cortain shaped muffs to match. They re- models. call styles of the 19th century. Where It is a question of mak. Hold on to all tails this winter;ing the most of lart, sonson's furs,

They are worth their weight in, I cannot do better than recommend cerned,

almost equal portions of fur and Jean Desses uses tails in a fabric, like the model I saw recent basque style round the hips of aly with black sealskin back and littla mink jacket. Certain mil-sleeves, joined to fronts of black; liners use fox and ermine tails to blue, and red tartan overcoating. trim winter hats; and a novelty Immensely popular ales in Paris which deserves mention is a large today are fur linings in cloth triangular shawl-like cape I saw costs.

Many women look upon them as recently, carried out entirely in

arming with a fringe of talis more elegant and botter attuned to the spirit of the times than a more on all sides,

Whore fur coats are concerned ostentatious display of fur. Thus there are two distinct lengths, you will see such effective models One reaches the bottom of the long as a black cloth coat lined with dress, and the other is not longer lynx or wolf and a canary-yellow, than thigh-length. No ihres velour cloth cont lined with gený quartar models, no odd seven- squirrel.

to

eighths or knee length styles have Robert Piguet uses raccoon as appeared. In the full-length a lining to a spinach-groen bolero coals, most designers feature fitted or jacket worn with a resta redingotes and loose conical lines match. Beaver or nutria makos almost equally.

an equally effective Ening of this In some houses, such as that of nature, but Robert. Piguet also Jacques Helm, for instance, con- caters to the feminine typo, of siderabis emphasis is laid upon woman who can still wear a tippet flaring back panels in contrast to and carry a little barrel muff with ] . almost straight fronts.

chic.

Baby Shop

MRS. H. MOALEM

* SHAWLS—BLANKETS

CORDUROY SHORT

PEN-PADS.

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“PRINCE'S, BUILDING 8, 10o Houm Street

.wearer.

the modern world of fashion,

more, chunky than ever, but here a note of warn- Or trends for spring and forcing, for it must be carefully casts for summer, Mina Lener has chosen for the individual. many interesting comments. Back Semi precious stones and fullness is still leading feature mixed with peris and diamonds of the spring collections, but there aro favourite.

a foaling for a return to straighter lines.

Miss Leaor, wears a striking

the bracelet of irregular inches from the door for tailored chunks of quartz, tinted clothes, about 10 inches for after- green and topaz, set få gold ".. noon frocks. Short-hair styles are the flower brooch to match, with likely to continue

us] pearls and diamonds added.-

Hemlines are a little higher, 13h and bracelet set of her own -

as long

rose,

Abova le an ́eystar white crape worn by film star:Vall!.." Long tapered sleeves and a simple round neck make this, a baslo dress which can be changed into, a number, of costumes via the use of jewels, stolen, köcessórias and capes.. ~ Valll, waara a circular cape covered with aliver bugle beads, and narrow belt to match.

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