1948-05-11 — Page 8

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The

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THE CHINA MAIL, TUESDAY, MAY 11, 1948.

Woman Today

FASHIONS OF 1880 IN LONDON

VICTORIA CHAPPELLE

ballerina dress with chic; but the wom of 40 must drop her skirt-fength, although the can add a littic exaggeration In the form of trimming.or jewellery,

Evening clothes in the Lon- don collections, owe a great deal to the closing years of the

Gives this picture of the now London 19th century. This may be due models, many of them harking back to the to the fact that designors look "Naughty Nineties" and Ronoir paintings. back with nostalgia to the Sherard in black crepe over

Italr-styles and slippers must 1880's when life seemed, to stiffened petticoat of orchid co-more acceuited.

a fot a cape and the low waist-line change with skirt lengths. The "Renoir" styles and shoulder- have few problems-if you had loured tulle which dropped bc- It is interesting to note that length hair look more fan ridi-

In these enough money-and magni-low the hemline of the skirt.

two types of dress, culous together; in fact, even the limit ficence in women's dress was The second was a dress by Nor-

for the age-line is with the ballerini dress long hair sharply drawn. The elegant seems out of the picture-to tel source of immense pleasure man Hartnell which was similar,

woman of 35 can wear her the truth, it is out-of-dain any-

way. to themselves and their hus-except that the bertha was more

For all the 1919 clothes, hair bands, and great profit to their

must be worn high, accenting the dressmakers.

But whatever the cause, it is easy to trace the origin of the wide-skirted dresses with their bodices closely moulded from bust to below the hips, and the

trim massed ruching which both the decolletage and the skirt, which Norman Harinell shows in his collection. Even his panniered dresses owe something to the satse in- Suence, as do the Victor Stiebel fish-wife skirts draped up to ng wirth to the hips and im- portance to the figure.

The lovely Indies of the famous painter Renoir--and even Toulouse-Lutree's luscious mo- dels-wore such evening pshions with nonchudauce because they were very little Terent in sil hette from the clothes they vore by dny, stays and all But it remains to be seen whether the modern woman wil be as Successful. She will need either subjection to this luren of con- fraction or stendy exercise if she wants to wear these new fushions with chic.

now

With a Vengeance Even the fullskirted, ankle- lengli ballerina dresses, seen in every collection, demand the same discipline, for

their snugly fitting bodices are senteil In much the same way as were the clothes of 1880, and even, in some cases, boned as they were.

And already the arguments are beginning that tight lacing, with the pressure applied to the walst-line only, is not only not injuriads but positively bene ficial!

No one denies, of course, that these ankle-length dresses are becoming. 1 remember two notable models-one by Michael

FASHION PARADE: (Left) A fashion suggestive of the 1980's in this Marinell gown of grey tulle. Here is the cla- borate ruching, Qutlining the shoulders, worn seventy years ago, and the same close-fitting bodice and rows of ruch- ing stressing the hips above a full skirt.

Right: The hem of a petticoat in orchid-coloured tulle peeps beneath the ham of Michael Sherard's 1850 black cropo dress shown from the London collections. A bertha fichu is draped Into the closely-fitted bodice no that the shoulders seem to alopu almost diagonally.

"Before-Taking" Of Dress-Making

.. From The Christian Science Monitor

curve of the jaw and the line of the neck.

Shóos, too, need straps If worn with the ballerina line, or

for

longer dresses, they must be elegant pumps, high-heeled and

alim.

Accessory News from Britain

ed

On view' at the recently open-

permanent export showro

of International Business Ser- vices London, in the Gala Tra vel Bug, displayed by The Galu of London.Ltd. This bag con- tains a complete make-up kit with foundation, non-spill pow- der. lipstick (with space for a spare) mascara, facial cream and tonic. Other equipment includes comb, stand-up mirror, and 'eather fold for tissues.

囍

This particular exhibit demons- trates the firm's polley of colour in make-up and introduces b

xtensive new range of powder and Ilpstick shades which enable women of every complexion, red- whether blonde, brunette," head or medium. to weur with.

colour. <uccess any fashionable The firm atro offers tinted foundations to match every pow- ter, shade, rouge to tone with lipstick shades, and a matching nail varnish to team up with lips and nails.

Cartridge-Belt

J

All the Gala products arc packed in beautiful and dis- Unctive cartons striped in gold and white, while the lipstick car tons have a pictorial symbol tynfying each colour-which in geniously overcome translation meulles for the export market. The Gala Cartridge Bell (made by Paris House Ltd., who provides accessories for Princess Elizabeth's going-away outfit) is fitted with miniature lipsticks in all

--women-were-to-see-how-a-) First thora is the designing fchandising that goes with it-shades, and can be ordered in any modern dress factory operatskill required. To plan a dress an, integral reason for the great colour suede. ed, they would be astonished that will be sold by the thou-mass selling of fashion which has

sards requires an experienced developed in most countries, but

at the technical skills employ-designer who knows her art. especially in America, ed, and at all the work neces- She must achieve smart and be

coming-lines not for ones womun,

sary to produce frocks that but for thousands, each one of enable them to be well dress-whom has her own special- figure" ed even on a small budget.

The engineering skill that is required to turn out an auto- mobile or a planc-or a Diesel

problems.

Trend And Trials

she must know

Also

fashion

enging or the minute parts of tremis, for her dress, to be ac- a rudin, are common knowledge. ceptable, must recognize fashion But if one asseris that the same details set by the fashion arbitra- engineering skili is required to fors-the custom-made designers turn out the many items of ap- of Ports and New York. parel which are used to clothe The

designer, then, is the car- women today, a glance of skepti-nerstone of the apparel industry. cism is usually the answer.

She has

to help solve technical problems.

The dress manufacturing in- dustry everywhere has grown up in the past quarter century and although in the mind of the aver age consumer, it is still an en- larged operation of the basic skills employed by the village dressmaker, the opposito is true.

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Co.

Recently in one American foc- tory, a. flared skirt trimmed with rows of rickrack braid to form a pattern, when done by usual sewing methods, was found to cost almost two-thirds of the sell- ing price of the garment. With- out the rickrack the dress would look uninteresting. dull. The engineer had to find a way to apply the rickrack without sueri- Being the anticipated profit the garment.

This is not

on

in- an isolated stance, but it shows how en- gineering studies manufacture of dresacs."

serve

Evening Choker

Artistic Liconco

Visitors to London will And plenty of souvenirs to carry humne but women will probably prefer the new scarves which have been designed by. a...famous. firm of silk manufacturers. These Jacqmar squares of silk are printed with famous London landmarks sketched diagonally across a plain coloured square, The purist may, perhaps, object that the sight of Tower Bridge and the Tower in dose Juxta- position with the Mansion House, St. Pauls, Westminster Abbey and Eros, not to mention two or three more well-known buildings can hardly be regarded as good topo- graphy, but few women are likely to worry about that. The scarf, which is produced in seven shades, teal, blush (a shade of rose), violet, Jacquamarine (a parma shade of blue), brown, navy and apple green, has a border formed by a repeat of the world "Lon- don" in old English type,

Draw an embroidery design on the material

lead with a good, black pencil. Press with a hot Iron, ani the design will not rub

Dist

BIT

A new high In Jewelled collars easily. If there are any mistakes in

a lew in the to dramatize

after-dark the design, they should be removed neckline 19 shown by Irene with an ordinary eraser before iron Dunne, starring in the R.K.O. Raing--- dio version of "I Remember

No Waste Here

For a piquant cooktail stick, stuff It is this "engineering" depart-Mama". An important revival

for daytime wear as well; it's a three-inch talks of crisp, tender ment which decides how a, patchoker of three closely strung celery with white cream cheese lo tern shall be laid on the cloth

to utilize every scrap of fabric coloured strands, the centre one which diced shrimps and salad dress-

and to cut without waste...

In home-sewing-the little scrap

of fabric is only a piece for the scrap bag, but in a modern fac- tory it may be the difference be tween an operation at a profit

and an operation at Jose.

outsizing the other two,

Ing have been added Chill serving time,

untit

HOW TO USE FROZEN MEAT

To be considered, too,, is the Now that frozen meats are the meat, and temperaturo at fact that the sewing and finish-being used more and more which it is thawed.

ing of garments is today highly widely, the housewife faces new

De-Freezing

skilled, but no more so than the uncertainties in her kitchen un- Roughly a four-pound roast pressing,

sure of new takes from eight to 10 hours at

room temperature, and an Inch-

The presser in a factory has til she becomes the responsibility of seeing that methods. Meanwhile food ex- the basic lines of the garment perts in America have been ex-thick steak about four hours at

[room temperature," are not lost in this anal opera-ploring the way for her. In the A beef roast put into the oven tton. With so many synthetic light of their tests, the follow-frozen taken from two, and one fabrics on the market, the pressing data is of interest.

half times longer to cook "rare"-

atores.

er must know how fabrier behave Stow-thawed-and-fast-thawed-than-a-thawed-or-fresh-roast. under heat and must learn to meat give equally good results in After thawing, the meat should give right line and shape to cooking, reports one Experiment be cooked by the same methods Station. There is no difference used for a similar cut of fresh garment.

Instruction on handling, ways in flavor, juiciness, and shrink-meat. It is interesting to solo that the experts recommend of washing and cleaning, are at- age, tached to nearly all garments In fact, equally:-' satnafactory moderate temperatures for both before they are shipped to the results are obtained by putting roasting and brailing...

ment, on to cook while still Roasting in an open pan with In modern apparel production, frozen, provided, it la cooked pro- no water added, without scaring a first, is another recommendation. all these steps are preliminary portionably longer and af

Not ro much time is needed to modern selling, and merchan-moderately low temperature to

make sure the inside is not still when frozen moot Is used for pot dising, Labels are used to create frozen while the mutside-is-over-coasts or slows as when cooked repeat demand for garments that enaked. An

by the dry heat of Tuñukų" or have a record of good perform- No axact time for thawing can broiling. A frozen pot roast of be given because tho thawing moderate size will need 45 min. Like the bright label on a can depends on size, shape, thick-utes to an hour longer to cook of soup, this label and the mer-I news, and other characteristics of | than a thawed or fresh pot roget.

I

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U.

SPALINGER

TIME

THE WEEKLY NEWSMAGAZINE ......

APRIL 19 ISSUE

Price HK$1.70 copy.

"On Sale At All Booksellers:

Distributors:

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