1948-03-03 — Page 8

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THE CHINA MAIL, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 8, 1948.

Edna McKenna Back From Paris

Answers Questions On The Fashion Trend

REVITALISE GLANDS

to

REASON FOR THE NEW LOOK REJUVENATE

I am dispirited. Because I To gain dollars Britain is if visitors see our woman Int belong to a harassed and im- anxious to boost her fashion the fashions of yesterday it poverished Britain I wish that market, but she cannot produce would be a poor advertisement the New Look had not been clothes that are behind the for our designers. launched at such an inoppor- other countries in design and] . tune moment for us.

styling, for this

Back in London aftor rush- ing round the Paris dress col- lections I have just recovered my breath.

1 love the French. I rovel in their instinct for making even the plainest female lock chic.

I find it hard to begrudge them this New Look. It has proved a godsend to their eco- nomy and placed Parls back an

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But it has caused our Inter- nal economic policies to dis agree, threatens to upset our whole system of clothes ration- Ing and promote a buying of clothes which Britain cannot afford.

I gasped at the check spata

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CHINA MAIL" PHOTOGRAPHS

|

Another World

Than This

I felt at the Schiaparelli show as if I had wandered in- to an aviary full of the most) gorgeous birds of paradise and for daya ail I could remember! WHA this over-powering sense of colour.

"But I am dispirited. Surely coal comes before colour in the Britain of today?"

Back in Britain I found the usual batch of letters from anxious women who ask why should any group of people be allowed to dictate fashion.

we

Why, they asked, do fashion writers not denounce the whole business as a racket? Why is there a talk of pegging

hand and of wages on one having to spend more

money

to change one's whole ward- robe on the other?

Why do the Board of Trade

action? not inko

Why does Britain have to follow these fashions when the clothing ra- tion is so small?

Putting Back

The Clock Firstly, fashion dictators are not of themselves completely responsible. All ovor the world there is a contemporary trend towards the Edwardian in decor, in furniture and also, it follows automatically, in clothing. Such phases come in cycles, and are such a natural development of a series of cir- cumstances that it is difficult to blame anyone for them.

Secondly, we fashion writers can deplore what is bad in fashion and say so, but we can- not fight against a natural do- velopment. All we can do is make an attack against those designers who 'in an effort to "beat" each other have pro- duced hidevaltion.

Thus when Dior launched his "hour-glass," which ia iu reality a very feminine and at- tractivo silhouette, many copy ista produced hips so padded and skirts so long and tight that there was a complete out- cry,

Britain's Trade Dilemma

The other three questions are once again concerned with our: export market. The Board of Trade view was given to me by the President, Mr. Harold Wil- son, at a recent reception for overseas buyers.

would pre-

The Irony Of It

Such is the irony of the situa-: tion that if one buys a cont ono must also buy a frock or look absurd,

It is, in fact, a colossal gam- ble by the arbitera of our ox- vent her capturing markets And so in this warped and ternal policy who apparently abroad.

twisted economy of ours the believe that what we lose upon At one period Sir Stafford struggle goes on. It is as if the roundabouts we should Crippa begged the dress trado] the Government on the one make up on the awinga!

to ignore the New Look as hand cries," "Save! save!" and Is it any wonder that though much as possible.

on the hand forces women to I can see the logic of it all, I Now the view is taken that] buy.

feel dispirited.

One “Graphic" artist,

who has been concerned

"Paris gives women a new spring line

By MARIE ALIX LAMOTTE

TN the fashion world a big battle has been won. Women have to accept the sloping, whisky- bottle shoulders as a victor over square, gin-bottle shoulders. Once again fashion has proved the dictator.

As the Paris collections opened it was seen that the "Now Look" has proved its supremacy, in spite of the reluctance of the majority of women to accept it. As a concession to women designers have adopted a spring line much less eccentric and heavy than in the previous season. To-day the line is absolutely fuld and moulded to the body. Do not believe people who gay women will wear falso busts, hips, and so on. The clothes flow to the natural figure, Waists are smaller and higher. Belts are tiny or non- existent, and the waist is accentuated by many minute seams.

Accent on neck and shoulders

Skirts have dropped to near the ankle-a pity for those with nice legs. 'They must concentrate on beautiful necks and shoulders, because these

are headlines in the new fashiona

In almost every case the décolletage is of great importance. Por day and evening the

" demi-lune *** (half

the startling

moon),

* plunging" V neckline at both front and back of the dress, and the scooped out, very

low neckline are mast in vogue,

For the first time in years the classical tailored sult is out of fashion. Jackets are short with wide draped, pleated, or flared basques. Collars and revers are draped like a scarf or a handkerchief. Skirts are ten inches from the ground, and the fullness commen below the hip and sometimes just

over the knee.

by all he has read about the New Look, was

3

Bome afternoon dresses are in- spired by the washer-woman's dress with the skirt pulled up on either side to reveal a pleated underskirt Others, like the fisher-woman's are pulled up on one hip to reveal à skirt of a contrasting material and colour.

Dipping hemline

The oddly dipping hemina bas reappeared on a number of after- noon and evening dresses.

Colours are soft, with a pre dominance of rose and lacs. sugar almond, colours, goldfish yellow and a lot of grays. A DEW

one is called spider's web grey.

Bettannrelli lifted the curtain yesterday with a new silhouette under the influence of the riding

habit

relieved to find from the Paris fashion news that "Hats, many of them like his imagination could conjure up quite

pleasant-looking" style,

Switzerland

Is Neutral

Neuchatel, Mar...2...

The Swiss Foreign Minister, M. Petit Pierre, announced here today that Switzerland would]

bowlers or toppers, complete the illusion of some bygone painting.

Appeal For Solution

Of Rice-Problem-

Baguio, Mar. 1.

firmly maintain her neutrality. The Vice-President of the Philippines, Mr. Elpidio

despite the claims of a few Swins that neutrality' is sense- less in, a Europe which has lost its equilibrium..

Neutrality conveys not only a vrivilege but also obligations, M. Pierre said. "We will con- tinue to fulfil these obligations of which the first is to

make our neutrality respected and defend it with arms in hand as a primary condition of our in- dependence."-Reuter.

Quirinio, today opened the Food and Agricul- tural Organisation's rice conference here with a strong appeal for a satisfactory solution of the rice problem, which he said he considered a prerequisite to the rehabilitation of the wartorn economies of Asiatic and Far Eastern countries.

He urged member Governments to were due from Australia, Chile, make concerted elforts Inwards Liberia and Pakistan, and added that achieving this objective.

the Siamese delegation wa

ide- layed" by the recent Siamese, elec tions.

Attending the conference as ob servers are representatives from the Supreme Command Allied Forces in at the Pacific, the United States Mili-

Opening the conference just before noon-his speech was preceded by a brief but colourful ceremony in which the skyblue Bag of the United Na- Huntingdon, Mar. 2. tions was raised over the mansion Six German prisoners of war house the Vice-President spoke were killed and eight seriously length of the Far East's economy in tary Gaverament in Korea, the in- injured in a crash between relation to the present international ternational Red Cross, the

altuation.

Nations Educational, Social and "Cul their lorry and an engine on Mr. James McAush, PAD expert | tural Organisation, and the World the main line level crossing at who spoke after Mr. Quirino, stress Health Organisation-Reuter | Conington, Huntingdon, today.ed the importance of the conference -Reuter.

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and asked the delegates to strive for positive result towards alleviating Asin's and the world's, food shortage. The Philippines Ambassador to Washington, Mr. Joaquin Elizalde, was unanimously elected chairman by representatives from Burman, Briteln, the United States, France, China, the Netherlands, Paraguay . 'and' Portugal, A

Mr. Harold A. Vogel, Secretary General of the FAO, said delegations

TREATY NEGOTIATIONS

- London, Mar. 1. * The Transfordan Govern ment has decided to go ahead with negotiations for a revised Anglo-Translordan treaty to replace that of 1940,

The Tranafordan Government has authorised." Its treaty revision delegation" to discuRS, A new treaty in Amman, the capi. tal of Transjordan, as soon as possible. -- preferably month,Reuter.

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