1937-02-20 — Page 11

HE CHINA MAIL, FEBRUARY 20, 1957.

1

Learn all

the

recipes

lightly

then throw them away and open

mind to wines and spirits

your

If

He

Could

Only

Cook!

knew a fellow who became ill at a

NY man should be able to fry full here and a spoonful there! The lobster, chicken, with potatoes sou- tail and white muscles. Wash the an egg. And perhaps cook only thing that stops me is the bot- file and then a bit of cheese and eggs thoroughly in cold water and himself a cup of coffee. I once tom of the bottle. For the life of coffee. But the chicken! It was add the liver cut in thin slices. Put worth going. miles to get. I once the terrapin in a sauce pan with farm house in Connecticut and he me I can't see why if the injection watched it made but my efforts to half sherry and half of the liquid had to send for his estranged wife of a glass of wine is good, that of duplicate leave something greatly in which it was cooked, enough to to come and take care of him. Re several glasses of the same wine is to be desired. However, you may cover, then cook reducing nearly not better. Try it out anyway and have better luck Take a fat fowl, three-quarters, add kneeded butter sult, he was up and about in #a: week but the dis-estrangement last reach your own level.

the size being determined by the and some sweet butter in small ed for many months. And it was a My early days reveal nothing in number you serve, and prepare it pieces. Season with salt and a pretty moon before he got her out the fancy cooking line, outside of for boiling. Heat about one quart pinch of cayenne pepper. Keep the again. It wasn't much trouble the only way to cook fowl or game: of soup stock (the French prefer terrapin hot and before serving add after that for me to persuade him in mud or bread dough as the In- veal) and then put in the chicken imported French brandy. to sneak in a course in simple cook- dians did. I believe my discovery with several small onions, and cook You really haven't had Zablione ing in a night school.

of liquor as a piquant addition was until tender. Toward the last add unless you have had it the

way

Inferiority No. CX718-A in the during the latter phase of prohibi- one pint of good white wine, Chab Bernard prepares it at the Mas- male set-up is that there is some tion. By that time I had learned lis preferred. Oh yes, there should cotte. Felix, down at the Bat, is thing sissy about knowing how to a system of getting pure grain be the usual bouquet of herbs, tied good too, but he uses sherry and cook. Some of the best men I've alcohol from the druggist. There in a bag so that they can be re many do not like the taste. As for known have been cooks and vice was a Saturday Night Club, roving moved. You will get something de Bernard: beat the yolk of one egg versa. That other hack writer, from place to place. The magnet, licious if not equal to the original thoroughly, add two spoons of Havelock Ellis, will undoubtedly in this case of course, was the sup- Perhaps it was in the herbs which granulated sugar, put in a double tell you that the highest civilisa- tions were those where all the nobler arts were left to the men and the women folk went out and brought in the wood, rounded up

By Murdock Pemberton

boiler with cold water and let it. cook slowly.

As the temperature rises, add six tablespoons of good brandy and six tablespoons of santerne or white

the flocks and did the spring plow- ply of liquor. Well, you had to were grown in the cook's own gar- wine. Keep stirring constantly un-

ing

of a

give them something to eat, and den in Brittany.

til thick and white Sounds easy, The late Mr. William C. Muschen- just try it. The result is magnifi- Your correspondent rates himself eventually it took the form of a su-

cook kiyaki. You cut up a lot of celery, heim of the Astor used to make this cent as a fair catch-as-catch-can

of the Then there is the memory And on inspired occasions he can onions, mush-rooms, a green pepper dish for Mr. Travers, he even forget the can and turn out or two, a slice of diced bacon, fresh Athletic Club and Island fame. If childhood in a parched state; we something neat and novel. As a tomatoes or canned ones and then your taste and purse are rich, try called it Preachers Delight, as the kid, un days when it was too wet put the stuff together in a large this on your gas jet.

local legend had it that a Methodist Terrapin a la Travers: Scald the Parson, partaking of a synod ban- for shinny and not cold enough for skillet or pan and put it over the

When the thing terrapin by plunging them into quet in a nearby Babylon, was not- skating, he would prop himself on electric hot plate. the stool that sat in the corner be got. under way I added some sugar, boiling water. Take out as soon as ed to be pushing watermelon seeds tween the old Beckwith range and some salt and whole black pepper small white skin and head and feet into his Bible The mystery turn- the kitchen table (long before the and one peppercorn with half the can be removed with cloth. Cook ed on the dessert: a fime ripe water- the seeds removed. Then when no one until tender and allow to cool Gut melon into which had been poured days of gadgets), and watch

with the claws, remove the bottom shell, one quart of good old Bourbon. The pumpkin pies or the mince meat go was looking I'd fill the pan

alcotrol. (Nowadays you dissect by joints. Cut legs and minister had hoped to plant such into the oven. He was the despair grain

Place the seeds in his garden. of his mother who sadly shook her could use white wine) Well, I'm feet in small pieces.

telling you

liver in cold water after removing Try it next summer, patting the head and predicted a career in a lunch wagon. As I recall the days, My second great discovery was gall pouch, remove entrails, head, melon in the ice box over night. that outlook was far more enticing Virginia Ham, Ill Manor. (It was than any other on the horizon. How named after my country place which ever, three weeks as cook's assistant first saw it tried). If you have on a two hundred mile trail in the met Virginia ham in its real habi- 2nd Nor- Rockies, feeding twenty hungry tat, between Richmond

Is, estopped that ambition. Then folk in the peanut belt, you know Don't be content the start of the war, your cor- what to expect.: respondent's feet and eyes belonged with something the butcher passes the enlistment category that in- off on you. Write down for one, dicated "mess duty." For a month preferably to Norfolk or

one of Ask for vented in a night school trying those adjacent villages. to learn to cook. But all I can re- one that has been buried for some - member from that is a pretty dieti- time. I had one such with a ped-

cian who taught the class and her gree, one cold February day. phrase that "spinach is the broom scraped off the patina and put it of the stomach As I joined the in a large pot. Then I added two non-spinach brigade, that training quarts of good native claret (Bur- was not of much value.

gundy, would do, as well) It weigh-

I

I not only am a non-spinach cook ed about seven pounds so took over but almost a non-rule Escoffier. A three hours to cook. When it was recipe is all right for a starting tender, and falling from the shank, point, to help you decide if the I took it out, flossed up the ex result is to be crepe suzettes or ham terior with whole cloves and brown and eggs. But experience is the sugar, poured back the juice it had thing that counts Learn the rules been cooking in, and then added lightly and then throw them away, one large can of sliced pineapple. one at a time. Only then can (It just happened to be the only take the real creator's pride in your item of canned goods surviving dish and put it out as a little thing winter in the empty house.) Baking of your own. It's like painting. takes only long enough to melt the Matisse couldn't have got anywhere sugar Take it out of the stove and if he hadn't sat those long hours then have the guests draw lots as in the Louvre copying Delacroix. whi ones can have three help- The real artist adds his own inter-

pretation, to the matter at hand, to the and if the metier is the kitchen range, his dash of his or that is individual as the painter's bru

guests can remain

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A little hors