1935-06-29 — Page 7

No. 16

China Mail

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HONG KONG, SATURDAY, JUNE 29, 1935

No. 16

BEHIND THE PARADE OF FASHION

Impressions

NHERE certainly is no peace

THE

Not

for or with women! for many years has there been such divided and outspoken opinion as to what women ought and ought not to do and be. Just to be a woman is diffleult enough those days, but to be a woman with theories and ideas to be advanced - and, defendëd 1 Lej us glance into the actual status of

the Women in world at the present

time.

to

how far 800

they gained what they set out to gain 'n century ago. Hardly' had they won citizenship in Germany than the kit. they were put back in

A

havo

chen again. South Amerlea coun. tered with a gailant resolution to grant them equal nationality rights with men. In Spain their OWN desiro majority has registered for return to old ways, and the In position is still unsettled. Russia they have gained more free- doin and responsibility than women have had since the days of myths and fables!

Women vote in at least 40 coun→ tries, and that is one phase of the

With matter of equality,

the right to vote frequently goes the right to hold publie office., Politi- cally, then, women have been steadily coming, into full citizen- ship with men, Legally, too, their position has improved tremendous. ly; educational opportunities have been opened up everywhere. Pro- fessionally their achievements have been such as to win honours and recognition, and if they have not yet won their way to the top we must realise that their time has been short,

;

The most startling changes have perhaps been in the most conserva. tive countries. See Turkey, where polygamy, has been abolished, the wearing of . veils "discouraged, women sent to schools and colleges and granted equal rights in, mat- ters of marriage and divorce.

In America and England wo- man is still conscious, though, of the feeling that she is "keep. ing men

And out of jobs." here is the darker side of the picture of the modern woman's position. It will probably only be Improved with the improvement of existing social and economic condi- tions.

or

The Russian Idea is that if thero is a war the women must be able to carry on the industry of the country. Italy and Germany clamour for an increased birth- future rate and the raising of Boldiers. But if the influence

fear of war does not help to define women's position generally, the International love of sport does. Sport is rightly credited with an amazing effect on the life and atti- tide of people, Spanish girls, whose mothers saw their dances only through iron bars, play ten- nis, golf and go swimming with their young men. Turkish women brought up to enter the harem at an early age now fy their own aeroplanes. And Wo Bec very. much the same thing here in the sport of Chinese youth-a sound foundation for the equality and friendship of the sexes,

Phyllis Juky.

WHETHER In

ono

cities or in hamlets, women don their newest and prettiest to join in the fashion' parade, As each walks down the Avenue or the. Main Street sho has an inner con- viction that she is

looking her best, that in the gaiety of her attire she Is reflecting the

mode.

To-day fashion is a shuttle that weaves back and forth across the Allantje, making a many-hued påt.. tern in which the two great centres are inextricably bound. Over there, in the city on the banks of the Seine, with its Eiffel Tower, its gargoyles, its vendors of flowers, its boutiques and its Rue de la Paix, . styles originate. There the ideas germinate that start as a ripple and end in a flood. What Paris says regarding the change of a sleeve and the length of a skirt is an cdict followed by faithful slaves where ever the word reaches them. So Important is a fashion decree from Paris that cables flash it na they do the fall of one government and the rise of another."

Four times a year, as' regularly. As the coming of the seasons, new fashions are launched in Paris, but the world of style is always ane jump, ahead of the weather, for Winter styles are shown when it is hot, and Spring ones when snow is on the ground. At these scĄBONS Paris become a Mecca for the faith- full from New York, London, Berlin there is a trek of buyers and stylists, all flowing in at the same time (the important openings cover A period of about ten days) to feast their eyes and empty their pocket. books.

WAS

Let every woman wi wears a Paris-inspired frock tolay know that its prototype was first exhib. ited amid pomp and ceremony. If it' derived from Lanvin, the original creation was viewed by the press at ́a resplendent soiree, Around the walls sat Mme, Lanvin's clientele in

music evening regalin; soft played. Down the long sweep of showrooms salles that make the swung the

skirts models, their swaying to the rhythm of their inovements; each announced the name of her gown as she passed, This year the names were all taken from characters famous During in dramatic literature,

the reces9, between the showing of day and evening gowns, a file of butlers, carrying trays of champagne glasses and diminutive canapes, served the onlookers, Near- ly always a spirituous baptism ac companies the launching of a collec tion, no matter what the time of day--morning, afternoon or even- ing.

To go to a showing at one of the great Paris houses is as thrilling as attending a first night at a Lon.

have don theatre. One must ticket only the accredited are per. mitted to view the birth of a fash-

A

+

Where Paris fashions are born-

the Rue de la Paix, e

lon. The elect are the press, ready to send word of the rise of a neck. line to thousands of the fashion- hungry; the elite among customers, who will be the first to wear, a dar. ing innovation, and the buyers, agents of retail houses and manu. facturers, who will take back mod- els to their own ¿countries,

m

The French creators work great secrecy; not a whisper of what they are doing is heard out- side their walls. Every one walla breathlessly to see what each of the The Big Fellows will turn out, showrooms are packed long before the first model steps from behind A curtained door. Young society women critically consider what they will look best in; women whose dancing days are done lift an opera glass to their eyes so as not to miss a detail of what youth will wear; buyers look on with poker faces lest they betray by the wink of an eyelash what they are going to purchase; and the reporters whis per eagerly, since they are the ones who will broadcast the news to the world.

*

The couture creates styles; well- Firat dressed women make them. In line are the Famous Forty (now

and again one hears that their numé ber has diminished), internationally known women who spend their time in the great capitals of the world, Inainly Paris, London and New. York, and who follow the season, to the popular European resorts. They are highly placed in the social world, good-looking, and have am ple means. Each has her favour.. Ite in the couture and revels in launching her favourite's styles. The moment she appears in publle longues wag and radios flash, Mad- ame X has been seen at the Ritz wearing a hobbled skirt at tea; or at a gala with a sari thrown over her head. The lesser lights follow sult and once again the circle of the ripple widens.

The promotion of styles is organ-* ised In Paria. Galas are given for the introduction of the new mode: there are colour balls and fashion teas, Only recently a new organi kation called the "Diners Parisiens has been formed; it arranges for gala dinners in the swanky restau rants at which society disports it. self in its newest and smartest clothes. By such methods are styles popularised.

(Continued Over-Page)

A new style in process-a Paris

couturier at work.