DAY OF OUR GRANDMOTHER
Long Skirts And Chivalry For Prosperity.
WILL IT RETURN7 When my grandmother wheeled mailcar:, writes
me out in h P. H.
the Manchester J. in Guardian, the hearth rug of the Queen was still inviolate and the mighty shades of Gladstone and Disraeli loomed over the Lilipu tion world of subsequent politics dwarfing all things non-Victorian. On those delightful perambulations (helped out in interest by books
like "Eyes and No Eyes" and "Common Objects of the Country") we paused at the "meenister's" for a cup of tea, and on that lawn were women, as stately as ships, whose skirts swept the daisles with all the grace with which Swinburnlan poetry brushed its ringing rhymes over the lesser lyrics of his suc cessors.
Striped parasols, shaded hats whereon the plumage of birds was piled above the garnishing of 'in- tricate millinery, and tall, austero
ALEXANDER'S. INSTITUT · DE
·BEAUTE
For the best Permanent Finger;&
· Marcel · Waves. Hair Cutting: and. Manicure fur Ladies ēk Gentlemen. Pedder Bldg. 1st floor. Room 5 Tel. 25169.
Opposite entrance H.K.- Hotel.
Kashmir Silk Store
THE CHINA MAIL.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 16, 1930.
The WOMAN'S Page
THE NEW
SUMMER
DRESSES.
Jackets, Capes, and other favoured fashion details are shown in these-new dresses. Dresses for all summer day-time occasionis, include materials of plain and printed chiffon, georgette, flat crepe and printed silks. The styles are youthful and very becoming.
deacons moved under the shade of tall-hats, speaking words of wel- come and wisdom to the small ag- sembly, Cigarette stubs did not fall amongst the mignonette, and not until the gentlemen retired to the library was the fragrance of nicotine disseminated in the sum- mer air..
In the evenings, at a sign from the hostess, the ladies rose with a rustle of voluminous silk, while the gentlemen held back their chairs; bare necks and bosoms and shape y arms departed over dresses which seemed determined to make
below what they lacked above, of-period poets and novelists, made and the "frou-frou" sound, beloved
music as the stately procession swept to the door.
Then out would come the cigars, or the pipe of the bold Bohemian author ΟΣ artist; and the "charmers" would be discussed with amirk and story until de corum decided that it was time "to Join the ladies.” So, Into the drawing-room where Ethelberta | awaited Augustus, and the corner shaded by pets of aspidistras on bamboo stands held the chaperot ed lovers. Do I exaggerate? Ah, me, go and read your Marrie Corelli and revive those days of dreamy delight when a new poet was a find indeed, and the literary lions abled puddings at their housemaide; when Rossettion youths wore flies
Rosie's
BEAU GEDMANUS
their buttonholes, and tennis knees could never wear the won- was a game you could play as cool-derful creation of Belinda-about- ly as bowls.
to-go-on-the-beach; they would sink her as surely as overloading would a pretty yacht. But there is hope. in it; the journalism of that day-the fashion journalism is as sound 13 Br essay by Hazlitt,
Does fashion decree the fate of nations? Were strapped trousers the preliminary to the Crimea and moustachios to Waterloo? We must have made a sorry mess of It since then. We had no generala with hands thrust dramatically in- Listen to the Parisian correspon- to tunics to brood behind that battle dent of that happy-era ;; "It is area of Mous; no caped and dark-į, quite true that in France the skirts hatted commandera to order out the Scots Greys at a crucial mo-
are plain and simple, but they do ment.
not show the limbs in the undesir- Napoleons vanished with the long so often do in England."
Wellingtona and | able manner which I notice they
And in 19307 skirt, the woman-tabooed smoking- room, and the inequality of sex.
In 1892.
Our
HINTS FROM PARIS.
Especially Suitable In Tropics.
Manila, July 19.
It so happers this year that the prevailing materials used by the. Paris designers and the most popu. lar colours shown in the advanced. atyles for the Fall are particularly sulted to the needs of women in a warm, moist-climate such as that of Manila at the present time. Unless A visit is to the mountain provinces, one is rarely able to get very far away from the summer weight fabrics though there is a general change in colour effects noticeable from the beginning of the rainy season.
The rich colours which are a lit tle too warm looking for dry days are the leading colours in the Au- tumn fashiona and are more and more in evidence in the shops and popular dining and dancing places in this city, Rich blues, browns, greena and reds are being shown in evening dresses as well us in daytime frocks. Diana Morwin writing on the Paris fashions for the Associated Press sends along the word that: "Browns are pre- ferably tobacco, deadleaf and ma hogany. Shades of green run to ivy, bottle and emorald with pista- cho green satin still going strong. Blue shades emphasize the strong ultra-bright marine and electric, with more than a touch of tarquqise in the lighter shades.
For the Wets and the Drys..
Wets and Drys will agree on the smartness of these sults. The two-piece jersey suit with matching coat, and the beach suit of wool jersey with light tuck-in blouse and patterned trousers are popular beach fashions.
Several evening dresses made en-
"Bright turquoise combines stun. ningly with stamp red and the are using it for trimming purposes. dressmakers utilize the combinatirely of all-horsehair lace have tion for sport clothes particularly.boon displayed in Paris but more "Raspberry and dull claret designers use the horsehair to edge shades are the newcomera-among
flounces or to serve as a founda- the reds. One of the designers tion for tiers on tulle and lage stresses raspberry red ensembles dresses. for formal afternoon wear in the Autumn wardrobe."
These materials with dots and spots are still very much the vogue for evening and daytime dresses alike. Every one is wearing spots and the ingenuity of the designers of materials is taxed to the ut most to find enough variety for the spots. As Miss Merwin remarked: "The well-dressed woman puts one over on the leopard this summer for she changes her spots nearly. every time she changes her cos/ tume.”
The bowknot which has recently been hovering about in the vicinity
of the waistline has now come to rest on many new frocks just above the knees. In this way it marks the focal point of fullness or godets
in the skirt. Often the bowknot is used as the solitary trimming of a smooth, plain-fitting and very chic: dress made of some heavy material such as crepe marocain. These bows are often of impresive size.
Mme. Ganna Walska McCormick has been one of the first to intro- Horsehair braid which is so use duce shoulder-length gloves to ful and popular in the Islands is match her jewellery. She appear. coming into its own in New Yorked recently in a gathering of Bri- and Paris. Even the dressmakers tish and French people dressed in
(Continued on next Column.)
a white satin ensemble and wearing green suede gloves to match her emerald necklace, and earrings.
wooed when skirts were creeping above high boot-teps, and shudder- ed at the vision of her gradual dia, appearance from view. If I were boid enough I would buy every woman of thirty-odd whom I knew a lace cap and a set of samplers; That perhaps a rocking-chair. I was walking on a modern pro- might, waken them to the signal of monade a week or two ago with a danger. Old Mother: Grundy of man who keeps a smart millinery Paris is awake, again; and the shop in that fashionable resort. flapper of 35 may find herself sud- Once he kept a
first-rate denly turned grandmamma, with a shop in London and made nephew to wheel out in a mailcart, dresses for Marie Corelli, and a black-beaded bonnet for Short skirts were thirty to one; but Sunday. But, of course, I am only we saw some of the "fashionables" a pobble in the track of the Jug- gernaut and as futile a voice as the men who cried out about the de- moralisation of our short-skirt pfoneers. Queens may command again from the hearth rug and real politicians return (perhaps I should have said statesmen) for as surely as the playing-fields of Eton led to the victory of Waterloo and gentlemen' left to their wine and cigars to better leaders of men, so long skirts and chivalry may send us back to prosperity.
Yet the pendulum of time seerns Inescapable. Probably on this very page will be drawings of the gradually lengthening skirt, and the victory of the dressmakers over the Amazons who have wagged gay limbs in these degenerate post-war days. Perhaps we shall see pic-sweep past us with the new high tures of Indies holding up skirts waists and skirts with trailing with graceful fingers from damp sides, as though the owner were grass and the ground sweep of compromising with the long and petticoat and skirt once more, 1 short. But already, he told me, the came across an old magazine of long dress had come to stay for a 1892 the other day, and the ple-while; and twice we saw gowns, tures were a reminder of the' which almost reached the ground, glories that have been, and seem He was delighted. He emphasis- about to fall on us once more, ed the grace, the beauty, and the Perhaps we have become degener- decorum. I went home very sadly, ate; it seems to me that Gladys of | It made me seem old. I thought the six-inch skirt and the merry of my own Phyllis; whom I had
CAN YOU LET ME HAVE: EIGHT DOLLARS OM E THE WATCH{IVES/ GOT TO BUY TWO -OPERA TICKETS
SEVENTS
FOR
recently in New York wearing black lace mits, like those of our grandmother's, to complete her en- remble of black afternoon hat and black lace gown of long and flow- ing lines.
A recent innovation for sports wear is the beret and scarf to match in cofour. Oftimes they are made of the same material as well. Mrs. Hunter Maraton of New York attended an outdoor sports mec" a short-time ago wearing a striped silk beret and scarf to match, the
darker atrip bringing out the tone of her sult. Berets have been
making a more and more increased appearance in Manila in the last
few weeks.
ORNATE BLOUSES.
Blouses with wide pleated col lars, blouses with smocked and em- broidered sleeves, blouses, of rich
brocades and lace will feature the daytime Autuma mode.
Roth Chatterton, starring with Clive Brook in Paramount's production, "The Better: Wife," wears one of the new blouses in pink satin, dia- playing a wide pleated bertha, smocked full sleeves, and tiny glass. buttons.
Lingerie.
As a contrast to the long kid gloves which are making their ap pearance at formal functiona, Mrs. Findlay Westover arrived at a tea
Chic garments that accentuate every graceful line essential to the now silhouette, Trimmed with ribbons, rufler, hémstitching, faces and embroiderles.
NOW HOW CAN I RAISE ANOTHER DOLLARI ROSIE MUSTNT KNOW IM BROKE:
S
I'VE GOT TO BUY THOSE TICKETS AND TAKE HER TO NIGHT OR SHE'LL NEVER
FORGIVE ME -
SALE
NOW
ON
DON'T
MISS
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