1930-01-04 — Page 8

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THE CHINA MAIL.

SATURDAY, JANUARY 4, 1930.

The WOMAN'S Page

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A Model Coat

Collars that stand up and cuffs that run up to the elbow feature the chic coats of this season. Fitch fur trim-

FOR THE AFTERNOON

For the last few years Sports Suits have been "de rigueur" until dinner. This year twelve o'clock' finds the Sports Sult in the ward- robe and the lunch toilet in pre- paration. The new afternoon en- semble is ready to get into---but make-up for tilfin is taking as long as the evening preparations, and it requires quite another treatment.

The arrival of the afternoon én. semble at last divides the day cor rectly, morning, afternoon, and evening, each period having its own suitable clothes. This is not an expensive arrangement, for lately a great deal of money has been spent in Sports Suits which were divided inte groups, town and country, ac

Buits tive or spectator, and some consisted of five or more garments with accompanying hat, searl, bag, shoes, and jewellery.

Now we have short jackets, some- times made of breitschwanz

Br

velvet, perhaps trimmed with fur, which are designed to wear with the whole collection of day dresses.

If hats and accessories are care. fully chosen, interchange can bu cleverly made.

Or

These afternoon clothes should bens different from the evening ch semble as from the morning Sporta Suits, and should lack any line, and carry the whole atmes. phere better to the evening mode. They should be simple but of dis tinctive line, and carry the whole atmosphere of the afternoon-tran quil beauty before the more exotic evening clothes.

THE DEBATED SKIRT

Skirt lengthe continue to be a salugg in a cont of bottle green Leda popular topic of conversation-a clothes gives a perfect finish.

standby, in fact, like the weather, Actually there is a good deal ol misunderstanding and unnecessary alarm on the subject. The ordin ary walking skirt is very little gow well covers the knees, as, in deed, it always did in Paris when worn by the well-dressed.

NEW COLOURS

Bottle-green continues, but other greena, both in very dark and tender spring shades, are not far behind, Brown is smart for after- neon, sports, and even evening frocks. It shares popularity with the very darkest purple-a colour which was but a little while ago practically taken off the fashion cards of colour! All-white is again almost the only choice for brides. White satin, dull and shiny, varied The latter by fallle and moire. fabric is also responsible for some of the lovellest new evening gowns. Rich, thick, heavy satin is the ideal fabric for both the straight mediaeval modes and the flowing draperies and fluted panels in the

Intest evening trend.

"Little Red Riding Hood "

An all-jazz choras trained at Ann Suhmer's Studio for "Little Red Riding ilood" The entire presented at the Embassy Theatre, Shanghai, on December 30 and 31. proceeds of this pantomime will be divided between Dr. Barnada's Orphan Asylum in England and the Russian Refugee School in Shanghal. Left to right: Leila Shengle, Marjorie Snago, Dorothy Roberts. Dorothy Snage, Jessie Neil. Front row: Eileen Hanimonel, Eugenie Koch, Seredin-Sabalin, Phyllis Gray.(Photo by Joseffo).

WHAT IS WORN NOW

The mid-season collections in

STANDARDISED MEALS

longer than it was last season. It / Paris give further glories In James. Yet his last iniquity is surprising. when to wear and when to re-

It was the British women, curl qusly enough, who took to the above the knee skirt.

Alternoon dresses, when they are worn, are longer than the knee or or above the knee sports suits that for several, seasons took the place of the old ceremonial type of after aaon or reception gown.

Here there is no real comparison, for the formal afternoon frock was almost non-existent.

satins, failles, moires, and velvets. Possibly a hint of simplicity is con veyed in the many charming phases of the house frock, which can be as simple or as elaborate as desired. Ultra-dressy afternoon wear for town has been, and is, a feature of this season. marked degree than the trend for tweed or soft woollen dress in place of the endless jumper-aults for the country. These wool frocks are "tailored" and sporting in charac- ter, but subtle feminine touches add pleasant varlety.

But not in more

So much of their "dressed" (or

At night-time the akirt length has definitely dropped by many undressed) appearance is determin inches; in some cases, one mighted by the way of the neck. Many say, by a foot and a half!

Women are wearing these long evening skirts, but often in such transparent materials as regards the lower portion that the effect is on the whole, rather plessing and graceful.

White in its modern treatment is a becoming choice. This was not by any means always the case. The longer skirts and dignified simpli- So far there is no queation of city no doubt account for its suc-mud-trailing draperies, and, if one cess. White requires, moreover,

knows anything of the modern "the depth and sheen of luxurious woman's practical turn of mind,

fabric.

there is not likely to be.

Pamela

13, Queen's Rd. C.

next to St. Francis Hotel.

We wish to inform our clients that MADAME FLINT has joined the staff of the above firm. MADAME FLINT has just arrived from Paris with a large assortment of the latest models as well as materials and garnitures greatly in vogue In Paris at the present time. Customers who study elegance will find every requisite in this well-known establishment.

DRESSMAKER & MILLINERY

This will be attended to as a special department

at reasonable charges with smartest cut and style guaranteed.

SPECIAL LINE

Hats to be sold from $8.50.

The above which have arrived are in addition to the new goods which are arriving for Pamela by avery matt

PAMELA

Queen's Road, Central.

soft tweeds are completed by a

semi-evening frocks show little in-

set tuckers of net with ever-frills in their own fabric, while others are treated like a man's shirt, and in some cases a soft inside chemie- ette is slipped inside the corsage These accessories, when well carri-

frain, and ales what line to take on colours.

· AT THE GLOVE COUNTER

Glove fashions The Anglo-Saxon is the root of

are interesting, all evil. This we long have known.and people are talking about them He has corrupted the French kit- chen. He has standardised food, and to his own ignoble usage. This learn from Paris. The tale of wos it that the native traveller can no longer and on the high days of tourism the right locaford The dishes which were far of old the glory of the provinca, of the city, the famous specialites de la maison are whelmed in a common univer- sality of steaks and chops. And of course it is the British and the

Amoricans who are to blame. They have no soul for the higher joys of life. They cannot rise above plumbing: Give them baths and running water and they will eat anything.

That may be all too true, and yet I am not prepared to believe the whole story. Can it be that there are no more soles in Normandy, no ducks at Rouen? Has Caen for-

"PICTURE" DRESSING

Our dress designers seem do in- terpret every detail connected with models appertaining to what may be termed "picture" or "period" dressing in a most wonderful way. No longer can such models be con- fused with the once-termed "artistle style" that signlfed "arty" colours with atrocious cut and meaningless draperies and trimminga. The great dressmakers are sufficiently artistic to grasp the spirit of the canvas and transfer it to the creation of the modern mode, with the perfection of cut and science of to-day.

The beauty of the dress displuya of this season is due to this under- standing.

+

This skill in combining the old and new beauty is appreciated by the well-dressed American woman; she who is so immaculately tailor- ed by day, precise and perfect in s detall. As in the case of okt furniture and plctures, Americans like to introduce into their lives the spirit of the past. In this way they can avoid the pecullar took that vast sums of money spent on dress and jewellery always convey.

It is by close attention to the dainty details suggested by the age of elegance and romance that we can present gorgeous fabrics and quaint accessories and yet achieve present-day sartorial success.

BLACK OR VERY DARK

As I predicted last month (wr bes) Mrs. C. W. Forester in the "Londin Daily Telegraph"), the most strik ing models of the season are in black or very dark colours. This applies to day-time clothes as well 39 evening. Black is more con- sistently worn than ever, and even surpasses belge and brown for the i smartest tailored suits, and once again puts navy blue in the back- ground.

For the evening black shares popularity with the darkest greens,

moonlight-blue, a deep dahila-red,

and a mulberry-brown.

Most Beautiful

Do you agree with the judges who picked Miss Dolly Jarvis as the most beautiful mannequin in Hollywood? It was no hallow honour, as hundreds of the world's best designers, working in Hollywood, bid to make the movie colony the fashion centre of the world

FEMININE POISE

Most of the great houses of Lon- don and Parls advocate increased feminine poise in all fashions. This, when applied to fur, some. It is n times becomes overdone. mistake to forsake the straight and narrow way with any pelts that do not come entirely into the category of xury fura. With ermine and anile, fashion can permit of flights of fancy. Such exquisite models

can only be contemplated by the really rich. We appear to have all gone over with the most surprising suddenness to the ultra-feminine

In reality the movement has been advocated for two or three seasons by our leading artists, who

One never thought that the White and parchment shades are gauntlet of many colours would the exception, as they are always seriously appeal to British women seen, and in great perfection, at cult.

A semi-sporting tweed on every collection; especially white semble" in a dull mulberry tone, wagath, which may have old face seen at Home in mail week, wore added as a change from the lightly with Chanel gloves in the bronze traced diamante design that s0 tints, the gauntlets being inserted cleverly help to mould the popular with no fewer than five different princess line. colours. They reached nearly to the

elbow.

These gauntletted gloves have a certain fascination when in white kid with coarse black or brown stitching, with a double fold of the Bame shade, which gives a military appearance.

Still, the best-dressed among women are wearing auede dar kid with plain gauntlet or, as an alter the wash-leather and native,

A new colour is the very deepest pansy, which rivals the dark wino shade. Both are lovely ie panne

and ring-velvet.

BROWN CLOTH AND SABLES.

When Viscountess Ipswich marri- ed Major Gavin Hume-Gore, M.C., at. Whittlebury Church, she wore

are themselves now somewhat over- whelmed by the uncomplaining ac- ceptance.

It is whispered that for fura and rich fabrics a slight reaction is on foot-that certain great dress artists are inaisting on straightness of cut.

WINTER HATS

The winter hats are coming more a becoming wedding ensemble, al- into line; eccentric shapes do not though it is, of course, not the really make much hoadway. It is

scarf worked with hand-stitchery. coloured wools ar silk embroidery just providing a "chic" touch of contrast and colour, possibly in con- nection with a fanciful waistband.

perhaps difficult for the uninitiated Some of the simplest afternoon and gotten her tripes? Do they never chamois glove, according to town i traditional white, wedding dress.

bake a pic now in Touraine? Has or country requirements. The

Over a simple dress of brown to realise that outré styles can only Bordeaux foreworn cepas? Have beaver and grey shades are good, georgette she wore a brown cloth be worn by the few who can afford they ceased to hunt the trufle in with the pastel tones for smart seat with sable collar and cuffs, to have everything in expensive de- Perigord? And are the ttorilles no frocks.

and the dress was chosen to match tall to correspond. longer golden in Franche Comte?

For the evening, whon gloves are, this valuable fur exactly. A brown The whole policy of good dress- Far is it from my mind to guess worn, one sees different lengths, of hat was worn, and Lady Ipswiching to-day le to strike the note of what the American would like to which the twelve-button design

There are

so many wore the diamond earrings given to suitability. eat, but I know that, even as the seems the usual one adopted. With

her by the bridegroom and the charming and wearable, ensembles, rest of us, when he stops on the the popularity of the bracelet, diamond regimental badge of the completed by amart yet quite be way, what he has is what the hotel which continues, gloves are best Gordon Highlanders, in which coming hats, that can be chosen by in its wisdom thinks will be good faishing below the elbow. Wrinkle regiment the bridegroom holds a

women who lead average full lives for him. In one he will have in- they must, for the new

diamond commission.

and have not too much money to dividuality, in another the same bracelets are often heavy adorn- meal which is at that same hour meats.

spend.

being eaten by a million people in a thousand hotels in a dožba differ.. ent countries. We all know that lunch, that dinner, it has bored us

ed out, have an important bearing

on the actual style of the garment.

AT A WEDDING

SWEEPING DRAPERIES

when the guests arrive.

When travelling en route for the honeymoon in the South of France the bride wore a brown tweed coat and skirt and a brown hat.

1

LOVELY GOWNS・・

Worn at a big wedding at Home recently was an attractive grey en semble in stamped velvet that had a long coat of fine face-cloth, with a long collar and deep calls of grey fox. Here the coat flared at the to melancholy again and again, and fashions is never more marked than The entire change in evening. hem. Another, in caramel satin.. still will bore. But how can the

Skirts get longer and flare at the had a coat of cloth to match, bor- French complain of its standardisa- in the little interval before dinner,

Decades feet. But the evening gowns that dered all-round with mink; whilst tion? They invented the thing in might divide the women guests of fall In at the ankles in front and most beautiful of all 'was a chest gross and in detail. It is their nut-brown velvet princess robe, national genius which imposed it the present season from those of, lle lightly on the ground at the worn with a wide dark sable stole, on the world-H.C.B. in London Bay, last spring, such is the change back are very lovely. The fitted and a draped bat of the velvet. "Dally Telegraph."

in appearance and in manners bodice and higher waist give an im-. brought about by The pochette was also of velvet

sweeping presalon of further length, which curled mounted in the tortoiseshell.

draperies and

coiffures. contributes to new elegance and

It Whether we like it or not the new dignity.

ja the night-time elegance has .conquered, and fashions that really do justice to Home, where there are now but few The smartest tweeds are In a women, with their amazing adapt the newer femininity of fashion. black and white mixture. Beige ability, are acquiring a graceful The improved, proportions and Even the hat ornaments are real, is perhaps the best for real coun-pore that conforms to the more grace are firmly "featured" in the

really good evening frocks. for once again accessories mark thetry wear, but certain makes in black picturesque ways of dress. defuite line drawn between those and white tweed will be much worn

Pearls and diamonds are plenti- fully worn at big receptiona at

Imitation stones 'cau,

for afternoon and those for morn ing or sports wear. In the latter case wood and metal are charming.

CAMBRIC COLLAR

There is always a "fresh" look about the cambrie collar in white or pale shades. Dainty cuffs to correspond give an added elegance. But the girl who drives her own car, bas to choose the very simplest

BLACK AND WHITE

for early spring on the Continent. Much green is now being worn at Biarritz.

Certain houses In London feature red, from the darkest wintry hue to the pinky begonia ahad. It is wonderfully becoming, especially with white hair

BLACK FACE-CLOTH

Black face cloth looks well trim

of these "puritanical" accessories, med with a border of white broad- for once they get ruffled or crossed tall and collar of same on a short their charm-even for the day'è' 'jacket. Long white kid gleyes are wear has gone. They are a plend. | joined to cuffs of the white broad- ing finish to the sports frock;" tall that 'reach to the elbow These ay. It is wisdom to try to carry them high fur. cufta added an to gloves in the bag and put on just at tifin. | are a novelty, but they do not strike time, or else arrange them very one as easy, or graceful. In all carefully under scarf and gauntlet cases, there are collars to corres. glover

pond,

ALEXANDER'S INSTITUT DE BEAUTE

For the best Permanent Flager & Marcal Waves. Hair Cutting and Manicure for Ladies & Gentlemen. Pedder Bldg. 1st floor, Room 5

Tel. C. 5169. · Opposite entrance H.K. Hotel.

de MODES Mme D'Obry.

MAISON

PARIS.

•HONG KONG.

SHANGHAL

Has now on, display a beautiful selection of EVENING GOWNS —— AFTERNOON & SPORT DRESSES

COSTUMES COATS — FURS

NOVELTIES

· Orders taken for Ladies' Dresses, Coats, Costumes, and Hals.

18, Queen's Rd. C.

Tal Ping Bldg.