1928-09-15 — Page 8

THE

"MAIL'S

VARIED COAT STYLES.

The Midseason Mode, With a Hint Towards Fall Fashions, Shows Coats Deviating From the Straight and Narrow Line.

THE CHINA MAIL,

FASHIONS

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1928.

ILLUSTRATED

THE SUMMER BRIDE'S TROUSSEAU SHOWS VARIETY.

די-

From Simple Sports Frocks to Elaborate Afternoon and Evening Dresses, the Mode Is Suited to the

Femininity of the Bride. Boudoir Novelties Also Achieve Importance.

SHEER DIAPHANOUS FABRICS ARE

FAVOURED.

Midseason Frocks of Picturesque Appeal Are Seen in New Designs

With Uneven Hemlines Predominating.

With summer clothes anything but simple in silhouette, the cunt is naturally following the trend to wards a feminine stressing of the mude. Full skirt effects are in troduced, tiers are used and the shawl collar as well as the cape coat all and an important place in the sensen's new coats styles.

Inspired by the tiered skirt of the dress, perhaps, midsummer couts, too, show tiers, dipping slightly in the back and also show a slightly dipped waistline. The longer in the back coat appears to

robe in the First National film. "Show Girl," permits her the use of a variety of coats, is seen in one especially smart coat which favours the cape.

It is a cape coat of black satin smartly trimmed with platinum fox fur.

There could be, no genron more subtly suited to the bride than the

its flutter summertime with

of

laces and chiffons, its elaboration of the feminine in trimmings and fabrics and its suitably and simply Hats, designed sports costumes. THERE ARE MANY PROPHECIES with their allure of wide brims and smartly coloured felt cloche all for shapes, accessories occasions, and, to mention summer sports, bathing outfits of colour- ful appeal, yachting clothes, travel- ing clothes and all the new destrable travelling alds in luggage. Undoubtedly the summertime is an open season for the bride.

While we know that the new not models in the shops are definite promises, we feel sure that they are rife with prophecies. And advance showings give us a hint,

the

be a popular choice in summer at least, of what colours and coats, generally. The coat with materials will be featured in

fall. From what we know, and what we guess, we can build up a the rather interesting story of coming mode, will be openings glore, and euch one will add a chapter to those already written.

the fitted waist and circular skirt, too, dips gracefully in the back, Godets are used on skirts empha- sizing a slender, waistline. These hemlines, although dipping smartly

in the back, may also show an un- ever hemline with points or scal- loped effects lending a note of in- dividuality.

houette.

From now on there

Every mode begins with the ma-

And terial end of its construction.

und

Sweater costumes are increasing ly popular. They are about the most effective of summer sports costumes. Silk pleated skirts in either plain or figured patterns combine very smartly with the slip on models in all the various weights and weaves of furni

Summer frocks of silk, generally sleeveless, are used with coats to form charming ensembles. In fact,

of

The vogue of tulle and net for part of the mode-is seen in all evening gowns of picturesque sorts of variations of that particu- appeal is so strong that it threatens lar style. Faintly fitted effects at to take precedence over many other the waist with a gracefully billow- types of bouffant frocks in which ing line that extends to the deep The hemline create an interesting yer- sturdier fabrics are used.

Tiers, sheer diaphanous frock is at the sion of the picture gown.

It is parti- rules, flounces, circular effects, height of the mode.. cularly suited to the needs of godets and ponniers all appear to

pocketbooks, belts und handker- chiefs often lending the note colour for contrast.

Afternoon frocks which flutter gracefully and add huge bows, sashes and other ornamentations are also essential parts of the trousseau. Flowered chiffons are at the height of the mode, while laces, nets and plan chiffons are also to be found. The large hat is youth.

It also demands a very advantage in the tulle or net gown. Except in a few rare instances

a fitting accompaniment to the pic-slender person as bouffant frocks

of gauze-like materials are unauc- the even hemline is a thing un- turesque afternoon gown.

been a favourite of the debutante.

Points, circles, dipped effects and

the hemline of an, even edge. hanging draperies all help to rob

Shaded effecti in net and tolle

In the evening the mode is still cessful unless worn by those of ex-known in the diaphanous gown. subtly feminina and all that flut-tremely slender Enea. ters, and falls, dips and sways sheer loveliness, tulle has always Because of its freshness and lending grace of movement, is to be found embodied in the formal The tulle gown is a wise Ock choice at the moment. It creates one of the most stunning of the picture gowns.

**

Wraps, coats, scarfe and other outer raiment are all in keeping with the type Négligees and

This season

it has expanded its achieve note of Individual charm. vogue and is appearing in dresses From the palest pastel tints tr for the more mature person of plea-deeper tones the abeer fabrics are sing slenderness. There is a shaded in a novel manner

-Skirts made entirely of tiers or picturesque quality to the tulls frock that makes it an ideal choice │ruffles sound a new note in Bouf- for bouffant gowns of the mid-fant styles. They are exceedingly lovely in the delicate-pastel shades.

summer season.

The robe de style-so definite a

It

The printed frock, so much in vogue for travelling, morning wear, informal afternoons and numerous occasions, is such a serviceable thing that at least two should be in cluded. There are all sorts of charming designs in the prints. The exceedingly popular coin dot,

of dress chosen. The cape coal is a smart addition we have come to expect velvet and the geometric patterns and the It is satin just as soon as the weather small conventional flower are all to the summer wardrobe.

other feminine

Alice White, seen in her latest seen mostly in the dressier models permits, the latter featured all the good in the various shades ranging

the ensemble mode is one of the boudoir accessories are to be found

First National film, "Show Girl," as the funnels and cretounes which year round but acquiring greater from light colours to vivid tones.

Plain coloured crepes and all the most important of the summer. in such a variety that any bride

has chosen one of these new types Recompany sports dresses still lean importance when cooler days come. towards the straight, siender sil- The openings stress velvet, as ex- other materials are equally in de-Coats may be of the same material might readily suit her taste at a

you better than other lines, and of evening dresses of shear net. It pected, and show special favor tomand for informal daytime cas-ever sheer stiks and chiffons moment's notice,

tumes. Woollens in light weaves being used, or they may be of Colleen Moore, making a fetching that with the ald of skilfully ap made of buttercup yellow and the printed velvets, which will be and jerseys, too, are in evidence flannel. The cape cout and its sister coats used for both daytime and evening for country wear. Knitted suits in and may be either short or to the ness Ahead," has chosen a screen size good points and conceal badla extremely bouffant with a skirt

Coats vary as to length bride in First National's "Happi- plied trimmings you may empha-trimmed with gros de londre..

wear. Chiffon and panne velvet Tar outlines are seen mostly in

Lines include skirt length distinguished by nine bands of the trousseau which includes many out-ones. two or three pieces are vary chic hem of the skirt, are important. Ratins with occasional use of broad-

and are an essential part of the

fits essentially suited for the sum- and necklines. Many of the most quoted design-trousseau. Navy blue with all sorts

mer bride. Miss Moore is particu-

Spend a few hours before a triple waist possesses a modified yoke cloth for variety. Dark blue black, beige and grey are the favouriteers are using velveteen for coats, of colours for contrast are used for

larly partial to the sleeveless frock mirror with the varied hat shapes of net and a huge saah of yellow The result will ribbon tied in the front lends a colours of the midseason coat which either as a separate garment or 48 these knitted sport outfits. Blue

and uses it for both sports and at your command. a part of the ensemble. There is and white is unusually smart.

afternoon dresses

be a new idea of what millinery note of quaint charm. The entire accompanies chiffons and laces.

type is your own. Study crowns

effect is one of pictureques appeal. Allee White, whose large ward-some corduroy. Satin, trimmed with the dull side, is seen, and the

their width and height, and study between-season models in black and navy, for street wear, are nu- merous. Then there are the softer shades of belge, planned for after noon,, and the faint pastels, white and the inevitable black, for eve- ning.

of tiers, ruilles, godets and circu-

Worn by Europeans.

All white is a popular summer cholee. Many of the most effective and ensembles are frocks

of all white in either wool or silk. Colour ful scarf, bandanos, häts, shoes,

ed, princesse lines, and the drop-brims-their width, both front and Bear in mind the fact that ping of fullness lower upon the back.

skirt. Circular treatments are an- there is nothing that smartens a other point of interest, sometimes costume as decidedly as a becom- in a flounce and again in circular ing hat.

are developments. There are times, tight and sleeves that are loose be- when there is nothing to even aug-low the elbow, sleeves with flares gest the position of the waistline, and sleeves with puffs, also below the moulding of lines continuing the elbow, and many novelties." down to the fullness..

The things to watch, then, are Interest is always keen in the skirt length, the tendency to mould-sections set into the skirt. There Consider the shoe problem; and length of the skirt and the direc-

are tiers cut along circular lies, find out what it is that adds most tion that the hemline takes. There

also shaped tiers that suggest the to your comfort, for that is the is no denying the fact that skirts

moulded idea. One sometimes won first requisite of smartness-one are longer, and this applies to day-

ders if fullness, ever dropping, will cannot hobble and be smart! Then time as well as evening models.

disappear entirely.

study lasts, remembering that heels The hemline continues irregular,

Fluttery treatments, represented and vamps play a part, not only In which is good news in many waya,

Do by ties, scarfs, jabots and the like, comfort, but In apparent size. and we are being treated to the

continue, and we are impressed by not attempt the fatal process of idea of the straight around hem

the continued use of the kerchief, wearing a shoe because it is a separately and as a detail, for it is pretty shoo!

There are some very noticeable trends in fabrica. We have always considered Georgette a most im- portant daytime material, but other fabrics are more popular-the silks and satin. And crepe de chine, so Jong a leader, is being replaced by other crepe, weaves. The tulles and silk nets are displacing chiffon in formal frocks as a novelty! The to a certain extent, although the circle must round itself out as the latter, along with lace, is imseasons roll by. portant Georgette is used as a foundation for the beaded dress, If you are expecting “radical changes in the general mode, you to be disappointed. There seems to be a steady, consistent

are

J

As the hemline drops the walst- line rises, and the rule of the moment is the top of the hips, There are normal waists, but few find them becoming, and the aver agee woman likes, a line lower, development of the Ideas already sometimes using the swathed, hip- expressed, but such a development fine to make It seem yet lower. assures change, if one compares a This

can be said, however--you season with another a year pre- can, and should choose the line vious. That change has to do with that is symmetrical for your in- the silhouette and all its parts, individual Agure, and by doing so cluding the hemline, and progress you will not be out of the mode. is apparent. It is noticeable In

Perhaps fall will stress some one many different ways.

lines of the frock demand It.

We may still call the silhouette neckline more than the other, but straight, and it is definitely so in la seems doubtful. We are given coats, if one expects an occasional the choice of the square, the V flared model. Even thep, it is a neck, the round and the diagonal, subtle fare and detracts very little the latter correct only when the from the uncompromising straight- fiess. The fullness occurs at the There are some few bateau necks, sides and in the front, rarely in but they are not so distinct a Ine back Dresses, on the other hand, as formerly. There is amartness appear straight but show width in this neckline, but only for cer and motion when the wearer tain types. The V-line is the most how moves. The width is placed lower generally becoming. Mile: Marlika Karang of Budapest | than formerly, den Ve

We are wearing sleeveless and recently gave an exhibit showing what. Probably the thing that will bear short-sleeved frocks at present, the smart European women are wear the closest watching is the ten- but it la largely in deference to ing. Here is one of the creations dis dancy to curves, that is, at the the summer Beason. Fall will played by Miss Joyce Compton. It fa moment, everywhere apparent. The bring back the long sleeve and if of heavy cream coloured crepe appll-suggeation of a waist, the swathed advance models are any criterion qued with a blue-purple crepe similar hipline, and the appearance of full-thero will be variety in the pass

Boka very much farther down on bilities for this sleeve.We nota старев, and to the shade of pressed grapes, trimmed in the same materiál.

the skirt than formerly, all these the bishop sleeys, aleaves that are

Tea-Time Creation.

This unusual hostess pyjama creation by Drescall' is des for appearance at the tea

the Inspiration for many knotted Give strict attention to skirt arrangements of fabric. The en-length, to position of the waistline, serable will continue, - carrying on to shoulder and neck treatments. in both daytime and evening wear. Be sure that the accessories of the "And it will be quite as important costume are in harmony with that in the accessory group as it is in costume, and that they are of the coats and dresses."

IF YOU WOULD BE SMART!

same type. Wear the just enough. but not too much, when it comes to costume jewellery, and be sure that It Immediately loses itself In the general scheme,

Be sure, frat of all, that the Learn the approved rules for coiffure you have chosen as your caring for your clothes and their very own is the most becoming one accessories. Shops will give you possible, and that means the neck-instruction, if you will study closet. line as well as the frame that the equipment, for it is becoming a hair makes for the face, Study it highly specialized art to make your with and without a hat, and when closet not merely a repository for you are sure that it cannot be im your wardrobe, but a resting place proved upon, keep the hair in the-clothes need a rest just as much best possible condition

as people!

* Make one colour, and he sure, it Two pairs of shoes, alternated, is the one that suits you best, the will outwear three, worn steadily, foundation of your general ward-and the life of any footwear will robe, choosing the fundamentals of be lengthened by proper care. that wardrobe in shades that are Cleaning and placing on shoe trees harmonious, Use this colour as a should follow every wearing. Heels, background, when it comes to ac even slightly worn, are unsightly. cessories, working on the old and, what is more Important, un- geometric principleThings equal healthy. Physical disorders have. to the same thing equal to been traced to run-down or turned each other-

heels.

silk on a foundation of net. The

Easy on the Eyes.

This black and white afternoon frock Study materials, lines and trim And It should be borne in mind is a distinctive little thing" which minga relation to young figure, that the cleaner is your friend. Hollywood created in the interest of and is of white satin with flared You will And that some textures The life of a garment can be pro- bigger and better and more decora- Jacket of tinsel brocad

nte, taboo In tones

so far ak you are con longed, and the wearer will be tive movies. Esther Ralston of the cerned that certain lines become much more tidy, if frocks, and screen is the player, who so charmingly

Continued on next Column.) coats go to be drycleaned.

shows it off.

of yellow. The trickery in the

sleeves gives a note of distinction.