1925-09-12 — Page 11

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 1985.

COATS

میری رات میں کیا مولوی

ZHE

THE CHINA MAIL.

THE

BACKGROUND

SALES SUGGESK

تیم ترکہ کے سے تم نے مجھے نہ تیر

سے محمد سے تو آپ کی

OF

THE MODE

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DOT, DOT, DASH, DOT.

The Morse Code is the most fitting way in which to express the fashion importance of the dot and the strips, which we may figuratively express by the dash. And bucaune the dot in newer, or we may say has been revived aa "new" more recently, it is already assuming the proportions of a vogue not only as a fabric but na a trimming.

And it does not mean a silken surface. patterned evenly with dots of a uniform alee, although there are such_patterns, quite smart in themselves. There are dots of many sizes, frequently, on one fabric, and the newest "pattern" silks wake me of them in graduated form, the dots growing larger toward the hem.* ur border.

Cluster duis, dots in squares, duts in eireles, dots in stripes mid plaids and checks, theacure some of the uses, and fabrics so patterned make frocks, line couts and trim any and everything possible, Nor are the printed and woven det the only ones-there are embroidered, appliqued and hand-paint- ed pallens that was the dot for their theme.

Stripes are more familiar, perhaps, and, in a way, hurdly less popular, especially in the sports world, where blazer stripes in gay--even gaudy- 'colourings are favourites, Then thora are stripes in the pastel shades and shadow stripes, less notie.able wed. rather ensier to wear,

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT the smart young woman is wearing the tailored suit of twoed that features the short cont, and hund-tallor-- ed velvet colini? The smart little cost. In double-breasted, has slash pockets, and is lined with silk crepe.

THAT the sportswoman is finding the jumper frock of balbriggan a most autisfactory fashion? It may have a trouser skirt or a skirt of the usuaÌ type, and best of all, it is shower-proof. One model has a jumper that battons down the buck.

THAT onu is reminded of her school days by the new idea of fastening the kerchief to the frock-an it won't be lost! The gay little squares of chifon or Georgette, smartly edged with lace, are mado secure at the waistline of thá Pruck with a pearl or rhinestone pin..

THAT the gold buckle is approved as a trimming motif? It is part of the strap that is used in place of the costume necklace; fastens the coat or adorns the hemling, and is uard to fasten or finish sleeves at the wrist.

Fabric Versatility Characterizes the

Offerings for Summer Twill

and Silk Are Favourites.

sin

A second cont, equally straight of line, takes on a semblance of width with trimming in the spirit, if not in the manner, of a rushing. It is made of eireløs of Use fabric, applied at intervals,

If it were a avstion of immunizem a song "r" that PUNETTE,

wild be evenly back and breaks the plainness of the divided between the frock and cont as line.

foundation for an ensemble But since the average wardrobe contains far mere dresses than wats, The latter must dered seriously when one is selecting the farmer, that there may be no possibilities of harmony over

the similarity to a ruchu is toaked. For the frock, silhouetted heightened by the scalloping of each against the background of a coat may circle. There are three rows on the become one with it or it may not. skirt and the trimming at the wrist

|

Lavourite

fashion the neckline is strictly tailored. The black satin coat is a logical entry the fashion TOぐむ、 Many women are

in

There seems to be no excuse for un-matches. Following Feluted parts, this season, and this fundamental of matching ami harmoniz-j ing is proving a boon to the general appearance of womenfolk. And when a garment assumes the importance of a fashion base, it immediately becomes the centre of the designer's attention, and variety enaucy. Add variety to harmony, and success is assured-thus it is with the coat.

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of the opinion that anti posacuses on elegance that silk doen not, but what- ever its comparative merits, elegance it has, as the pictured model shows, Ita flounce is accented by the fur border- why is it that monkey fur seems to belong to watin? A narrow shawl collar of white satin is matched by the facing of the widered sleeves.

For Wear With Sheer Fabrics. To wear over the tes, dinner and dance frocks, that are a part of every afternoon and evening wardrobe, there are conte-and occasionally a wrap- of thin, transparont fabrics, more expecially the crapes. If they provide warmth, it is negligible; but charm they surely contribute, and the sheer ensem- ble is undoubtedly the aristocrat of the season's offerings,

You are devoted to the ensemble e-and who is not-you will buy your coul first, then seek frocks that belong, apparently, to it. This is so whether the purpose of the garment be sporta, street wear, or the formal duties of late afternoon and evening. ILN fabric, colour and lines will conform te ss purpose, and its tailoring w identify it with the mode of the moment. Many Costs For Many Purpuses. The coat of many purposes may not be confused with the rany costs for many purposes, although the former is

Binco the separate coats come in so incinded in the latter, so far as fashion many colours, it is not difficult to match is concerned. There is the coat for the frock to the coat. While chiffon.in spurts; the coat for steamer, train, and | lovely, it la by no means as practical motor; the mat of twill or silk for as the crepes. On the other hand, many dressy afternoon service, and the filmy of the crepes are quite as lovely.ad the roat that belongs to the dinor and chiffons, which would seem to be a The

dance frork, but uppenrs, sometimes, at point in favour of the former in

formal afternoon affairs.

name "praction chiffon," whimsical moment to Georgette, is Atting, for Georgette la-just that.

Its sheerness does not limit Its versatility, this coat fashion.

There

Sperts coats choose their fabrics from the tweeds. Cheviots, flannels, kashmirs and soft wools of the camel's hair type, They have a rough-and-rendy look about them one feels sure they will provide

are straight fine models, cape models, comfortable warmth, when needed fared hemlines, and the same variety They arù xunty, amartly taflored, obtains in the matter of trimmings, rather munnish in their styling, and

There is nothing loveller under the sun almost unvaryingly straight of liner the moon than a coat of whipg, Some are trimmed with fur, but many chiffon or crepa.danlied with while Lox. hove the smart, unrelieved neckline. fur fur seems a favourite garniturs."

Fox, caracal and monkey are frequently used, and ostrich and marabou are, scan Appliques are a favourite elaboration, and, as would be expected, self-treat- Scarfs, inbot revers, tucking, potal borders and ruchings are characteristic, and ribbon borders have

The Flannel Coat's The Thing. The informality of sports has made the danne you reigning favourite, It is light of weight; warm, but not tooments abound. warm, and

and Intriguing in its colouring It may bo navy dr white or in one of the wonderful pasted Lance, and degerts straight ven geensionally for The flared temline or the swagger umpe effect that is Kmart fashion feature,

place... Artificial Rowers of the fabric or of ribben-collar some of these coats or trim the hem. The smart women look to her coptathly-memgonj!

CONSIDER YOUR HEMLINE

FOR THE TRAVEL WARDROBE

The tailored mode is as dear to the the purpose. The frock may be one or heart of the traveller as it in to fashion. two-plece type, but it will be dark in It might be said that the general colour or fashioned of one of the printed. characteristics of it, as it finds expres-alks that fashion Ands amusingly chic, appropriate to the purpose of the One suspects that, the frock beneath

on at the present time, are specially yet practical, woman, who would travel smartly, yot comfortably. It took its grant step for the double-breasted cuss that

It is, in a way, the coniecting link" between the group of. spats that is classed as sports, and the group for.. travel. The latter are, in a general way, rather dressier than the former. revealing interesting- tregimenis p collar, sleeve, rover or shoulder withst If you would keep in touch with every sacrificing in the least their basis aim, new. fnahlon wrinkle, you must give plicity. They are trin, yet they do not thought to the hemline of the frock lack elaboration of the subtle wort, they your are about to buy. For the smartest ward when it adopted Lightweight pictured traveller wears a plain of arg, in a word, flattering,

Hume, this seasonf," are not following fabrics, that is, so far as the traveller colour, but brightened with touches of

the

frock, perhaps more thùn und," but so arranged that the parts may alternate, making, four fracks the space this two will take. The but you wear with your travelling costume can be chosen with an eye to these jumper dresses, that settles the question of an outfit for the average daytime occasion, although the afternoon may make femands of another nature of the suit- cose wardrobe.

The chiffon frock, the model of lace or Georgette--all three requiring little space-und the straightline dress of erepe are possibilities, and ane recog nizes bastantly the advantage of the shear gown with several slips of differ- ent colours and girdles or ornaments to match the various slips. The divid ing line between the afternoon and evening model is so slight that one frock may answer two purposes, unless the evening affaire very formal..

It is obvious that one's destination rules, to a certain extent, her selection of clothes. Perhaps a bathing outst must be included, but that takes vory little room; lingerie and boudoir appare are of the stuff that dreams are made

Perhaps thore izipa butter background either the straight ar the narrow, WAX,'} {S CODcmned. PER Cake Pintod: silk. It is, tandqábtedly, quita)

for a collection of frocio thun a severely For some time they fare, eschewed the cut cont of wiltrinimed, let us kxy, latter and now they are so fag lost with manipulation of the fabric Itself the old rule that they are palated

and exquisite in every detal) of its scalloped and fagged, and finish. It has no rivali except, perhaps, more often than

the, cont of silk, which will hardly rive It le pha

the racont

Berrice of wool, head skin then

are the dressler,ypes, quita correct for the same time alternion. Wear, and presentingla "vojus of Jan

in thrinarivo/2

Proving how

be their application-co

three models

Inspection.

line-daras

ware, but an unmi

plain offling-may even be longsleeved,

The average occasion of week-end and the controvers its entirely, Note visit og motor tour makes garmauite of the martose of the yelyst collar; the the simple type imperative and & patch pocket, tie bone buttons and the travelling outit; Trocks of the ultra smartness of the hat of the Dark sport.type, and an evening frock or two shoes and hostarz 11192,

wish th

not forgetting or course of the smart travellers han ries of each costume. With It not easy to anticipate the n Bu shadowing everything ill af nach, and very individual who wi

possible, to czytake certain be Journeyizig here and there the stimme details ostplementary to more, men ytime! HADSTIQUE STAN

For the Journey,, whether it

fald or by motor, there brand

belwroɛn the ensemble rostrofa mies and the frock of milk or LIB bil? worn withs: 2 double breasted

refully taliored and app

red at the

all ons

are

boudoir slipper and bathing sandals. necessary, tab.

Since the sports frocks may be worn for other occasions than sports, one may find it advisable to include both rubber soled shoes of huckskin and calf and strap pumps a little less "sporty," in the choice. Blond satin pumps are a conservative choice for afternoon wear --they will "go", with more than one dress of this type; and the evening shoes will match the frock, One cazi economize on space by choosing her

evening frocks that both can be supplemental by silver slippers,

It takes forethought to plan a limited travel wardrobe, but the result will be far more satisfactory than it has over been, ko far as smarthess is concerned. And there will be room for more things, as well. There has never been a season when fabrics, colours and lines contri- byted so much to the fine art of inter- changing this and that with the other! Variety results, and variety in the and and aim of the woman who travels “in a suitcase."

THE GLOVES

You Wear

They are, of course, fine. of fabric, utilized, and there are unusualities, as perfection in ft, and quite smartly new well-witness, small tessels of suede on

tion.

of, and about as bulky, which leaves in design. And they are decorative, a glove of suede. Bright facings on ample space for all the accessories of too, so much so that they often saund the cuff or as linings for petals, form- hosiery, gloves, scarfs and shawls.

the keynote for the accessory casemble ing cuffs, are smart. costume jewellery and a fan,

that is so important to your costume, The slip-on glove is gaining in But, shoes and hats are a problem in There are hundreds of styles and most popularity, and strap-wrists vio with themselves, singu fashion demands the

of them are unusual, with interesting the Biarritz type that is loose of wrist. cuff treatments and clever ornamenta- Even the capeskin glove inclines to frivolity, one smart offoring in beiga It is the reason of what we are showing trimmings of red capeskin ou pleased to call the "fabric" glove in its turn down cuffs and its elastic Atted differentiation from the glove of kid. gore. Winter permits both-so, tout, does summer, but we find silk and light- weight fabrics much more decidedly to our purpose--and our comfort-when the weather is warm. But the shops "offer all kinda for your choosing.

Tábored Front Head To Hools, She

Is leady For Her Holliday.

had footwear-with

But it is the question of colour that is most important, so far as the gloves in relation to the ensemble-are con- corned. There are many shades of many colours to be had, and it has become decidedly smart to match the gloves with hosiery, shoes, scarf, hat, handbag or some other accessory, thereby creating a minor ensemble comú- plementary to the major.

We have, then, gloves of suede fabric, of silk and of glace or suede or chamois from which to select our special hand- wear And addul, to this we have several styles and many colours te com- All white, all black, black and white,' plicate the selection. Nearly every and white and black are staples. There style appears in each material Bo is a range of beige and lawn and brown when we have decided upon the former shades, and gray is present in many

we may consider the latter.

Luner You will not forgot that gray The glove with the deep cut is his is one of the popular colours, for it tory, and in its place we have the came, quite unexpectedly, into the lime. BTTO Cuff in novel decorative effects, light at Inauguration time, when the with the turn-down cuff, also narrow, First Lady of the Land chosd an ensem-. a closs Accond. Then there in the wrist- ble in one of its loveliest shades. fitted, two clasp glove-so long time You cannot afford to choose the wrong out of the picture. Now it returns to us colour in your handwear for two very with its share of ornamentation in a important reasons. Gloves are expen trimmed top consisting of a tapestry sivo, these days, and one way. never ribbon Band...

forget that it is the garment or Everything that fashion finds interaccessory you buy and never wear that esting in trimming has been applied to is, most expensiyo at all. And just s gloves. Not only the means--appliques, Important the wrong gloves may ruin embroideries, beads, bralde, tinsola--but your costumo, sutting the care that has motifs-dots, scrolls, checks, plaids, are gone into its assembling to gongat.