1925-09-05 — Page 10

10

THEY CALL

THEM

ر اوران که بین اور رات کر کے ان کے

QWSPLZ prya SRSA

کوریج دو وقت کا مر بھائی بون

میں ادا کیا اسرا

PEDER

They Are the Smart Summer Frocks That Brighten Every Wardrobe- Their Purpose Is Manifold.

The exigencies of modern life are responsible for many things; in fashion And mu Just sie home of the present day is very different from the home of a century ago and transportu- tion a swifter, if not a sufer thin,

is the wardrobe a more verun... affair, that its mistress may meet the demands of her day appropriately.

And site has many uses for the frock that has been named, for purposes of identification only, the "rouf "garden". model, although oftentimes it never pays a visit to that modern interpreta tion of a dining saloon. It is the near- formal, yet wholly informal little dress that one plays bridge in of an after noor may and go on to dinner and the dance with no fear of its inappropriate.

nura.

It exemplifies the fushions that have come to spend the summur, quito un- perturbed by rumours of new fabrics, new colours and new lines. It may be a prophecy itself, although one is never quite sure; but that is a matter of little import, since Efe will be a brief, though somewhat hectic affair. ILA fabrics are the accepted ones of aur.

mer shades and it is altogether lovely.

It Is An Established Vogue. Since it lives for a special purpoze, this roof garden frock is a rogue in itself, and many of the models that its versatility permits are inimitable and uncopiable--by amateur designers. It is a mode of tailored simplicity and feminine elegance in ene; it is graceful and amart and individual; It is an extablished success.

This particular season its fabric has much to do with its beauty and ita popularity. The laces, crepes, chiffons and lingerie materials are its pliable mediums, and there is no gainsaying the success of their sheer elegance. It is, too, in their favour, that they are not only delightfully fresh looking but are comfortably cool.

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Lace, both alone and in combination with some other filmy fabric, is feminine fashion. Use is made of Chantilly, the tinted Spanish laces, metal, thread-run, and all the hand- made laces, but they appear more often with another fabric than by themselves. The all-lace frock is rather a formal affair, but it loses its informality when used in combination with chiffon or crept,

The fabric mode, as applied to the roof garden frock, naturally falls into four distinct parts, with Georgette, chiffon and crepe Elizabeth spirited contenders for the honours that lace would pre-ompt. It resolves itself into s question of what the individual prefers, and there is really no choice, so far as fashion is concerned. If one has in mind a frock with tailored inspirations, crepe Elizabeth would bo the preference.

THE CHINA MAIL.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 1925.

ROOF GARDEN FROCKS

Black and white are again effectively combined in a model that adopts the drop yake, the wide girdle and the really full skirt. Shirring is new, and is here used to join the skirt---made of

e panela of luce and Georgeltaj waist. Note tho hem ruffle of back lace that matches the border of Jace on the huge wush bow. This model is an excellunt example of informal formality.

An expression of the widened bem- achieved by godets-is noted in the model of chiffon and lace, and the increasing tendency to un uneven hem- line also appears. A tracery of bead embroidery outlines each insert; the scalloped hem; and the narrow yoke. The waistline, be it noted, is normal lending a certain credence to the rumour that fall waistlines will be bigher.

Summer may be counted upon to

return some version of the lingerie frock to fashion. It is * never old always new idea for the wardrobe, and. the model chosen exemplify it usea cire lace in combination with the

embroideries, buliding it ever a slip of blue natin and further carrying out the antins Again--the unever homline and vogue for pastols with a onɛh of pink)

the normal waistline.

The last frock in the group proves the value of the shawl as a dress fabric -you might even try it yoursek, £ you possess the shawl. But it would be the better part of good judgment if you were to first try the fitting and

draping with a piece of material that is comparatively valuelens since a really beautiful shawl is too precious to sacri- fcu to a first attempt

What These Frocks Will Prove. The group of models that go out, to tea and bridge dinner and the dance with equal appropriateness show us that the shoer weaves are the recog nized summed fabrics. And they stress the lovely pastel shades and many new and unusual tones.. While names are hardly a dependable clue, they are intereating-as We раза them-and worth a moment's notice.

Petunia, apricot, primrose, fox-glove, Į pistache and rose geranium are, in a way, familiar; and we have come to feel a sense of familiarity with Bishop's purple, Chanel blue and jade. Teen But this only server" to heighten our interest in such tantalizing belge muveau," and "black prince," names se "wood-thrush," "pensil.blue,

the latter the dark red of a new res

DIAMONDS ARE UNMIS-

TAKABLY

Amo comTKINC- CHOLY MPUMOS

AN INTERESTING DEVELOPMENT.

When a fashion Ides bids fair to

BLACK AND WHITE-OUP CLO ANO, LOVAL COLOR, FRIENDS

to her apparelling; she craves the clever Accessories that make her medish. 80 it le not strange that she is reaching But for the one accessory that holds possibilities of lack of harmony in an emble that should be slenderising in every detall.” p

A. CHIFFON SPOCA HAIDAmpon ETS HET WITH LACE GODEXS

DID YOU KNOW—

THAT the new Ettle handbook from Paris, dony in Cubist colourings, in to ba kad in a maxi sutisfactory buitution? It in shirt, dosking, vivid in hug, and Its leather is noft, pin-grain Morocco.

THAT the smart woman prefers the slip-on chamois glove for daytime wear, whether in town or country. She wears them with short sleeve frocks when they are white or natural içenlour and have tiny perforations and pinked edges. And when une-button type, she wears: chamois with sports frocks and coats,

THAT the elencer tones are taking the place of the pastel shades, while the most prominent flower tint is vielet or orchid? And black. is showing a pre- ference for flesh in the lace and chiton frocks that are so popular for wear in the afternoon,

THAT they call it the "fare-in-the- back." this newest silhouette, that, is not only the nowest summer fashion but a prediction of a fall tendency. Black satin models, gowns of high-coloured chiffons and many of the ultra-smart' presentations feature it..

THAT American women are adopting an English version of the sport stick?. It is a cane when closed, but when. opened it becomes a seat, and is a real Joy to the active follower of anorts. It may be had in all the smartest costume colours.

THAT new ensembles include a hand- bag that has scarf of matching raaterial, and shoes, hat and bag to match, this time of Bizart skin? Advance reports confirm the informa tion that there is no waning of the ensumble ideus,

in

THAT

Paris is letting her hats grow

preference to her bob? The new "bob-bed" hat is shaped to cover the. line of the bob, and may be had in our cwn shops as well as in those abroad. They are of felt or Ballibunt.

THAT a new iden in haze is the smartly, self-tailored transparent indels that are to be had in such variety. The charm and the smartness us in the shape: in the binding of aatin: and the clever application of the brimmag

THAT recent fashion note front Paris tails of the appearance of the small veil-one should say the reappear: ance? Of plain, hexagonal mesh, just covering the eyes, it is draped snugly around the crown of the hat.

WHEN TWO PIECES ARE

BETTER THAN ONE

For the daytime occasion that hasat sports rather than actively enjoys, no touch of formality a dress of practi- them. She may even never think of cal smartness is imperative. And for sports. These fabrics are the delight this dress fashion's choice is the two of the designer who places great value piece Jumper model that adde economy on pleats, and finds them an easy way to the smart practicality that is re- to achieve fullness at the hem without quired. And it is in the interests of destroying slender. lines. this same practicality that the two pieces prove their worth and the un- doubted fact that they are butter than che...

It is an established fact that we owe this fashion to sports attire, for there it originated, and there it proves Itself superior to any other type of frock. It has become almst a uniform on the links and the tennis courts, and any iden in clothes that proves overwhelm- ingly popular in one realm of dress will euroly have its influence on biker realms. This has proven true with the two-piece frock..

Considering it first in its native land -one meets with a single objection only to its access. Many feal that there is too grent a similarity between the models; too little variety in the resulting costume. But when one resily studies the mattor, she finds a sur- prising variety of details and an almost overwhelming variety of colours and colour combinations-not to mention a wide range of fabrics.

There are many acknowledged "sports fabrics," many of them borrowed from the general daytime mode. Of the lighter weight materials there is variety in crepes, sliks—especially the tub silks. and even chiffons. The fannels and. jerseys-balbriggan jersey the smartest —are the favourite wools, and there L, naturally, a wide range of knie

of knit weaves,

Balbriggan has become a vogue, com bining the smartest of the sports fabrics with the rarest of the spring presents tlona. The natural coloured balbriggans and those in the pastel shades and white kre favourites,, BUT WATIK, Wouther descends upon us, and there are models in the darker colours, if one must be practical. Such a model is illustrated. It in, you will notice beautifully hand tailored, and finished with a nicety of detail that amartens it in proportion. The button trimming on the wrap ́aromid skirt.ie reposted on the side- planted Jumper and the ricever. Many of these models, match their long sleeves with a high neck, the blouse buttoning from neckline to hem.

Ir it would better suit your purpose, you may have two-piece frock of English tweede some lovely, soft tng Buck trock may have a yoke mixture with can or gray predomina be and sport a pointed Byronergie, rollar

Parhapa fabrics bring no radical, changes, but Jines do. And then there are the ways of trimmings-ono doės not have to understand to love them. printed or painted on? And it is the What matter is it, ifthe design is general effect of width, not the way become a fundamental one may No ese welll deny the fact that a line that width is acbierod, that really for a far-reaching influence in that ends at the hem shortens the fgare coarita. Rutes, plants, frills, godets, tion with the Ada Colar, some fleunces-these are the means; it is the that at tinik 3 is vivid, la patterning Just the amount that line between Since the Jumper drekk has come to end with which we are concerned,

the fabric

hemlins and floor. How, then, the ben, “accepted fashion, for daytime 9tion and with very The new frock is quite likely to have now, KURIOZ, Douisia) shader make their stout woman to embody a detail that wear, some térales at it meating every long sleeves--they persist aven in semi- appease 550 strong 24 its linnance will have this result, perhaps in the occasion from warly morning, until late formal frocks, a yoke, a wide girdle of become ant it is, le last, storming the costume ? How i la, she to taẩn her afternoon, ons asks the innot lace, a tiled or a painted slip citadel, of the large woman's apprcoTMm | departure from the conservatirs black most suc

que park Ny hosiery that has been: keruniform, thënë - its sim beneath it. It may be a symphony in hitherto, Imprægniālas aka

many yesfat it can be done for it wartly

contrasting bowlery "mcat, be had, tonkin

The Tailoring Of Sheer Fabrics When a fabric has the requisite shear- , is supple, yet firm; it takes the fins tailoring that fashion loves with a doal of charm. It is specially well liked for the ensemble which has its plaes in the al-formal mode, whether ombre tinted chiffons-petal-wise, or it. No better proof of this can be pro- being done, and noce tably be of

may bave quaint shirrings or it may be duced than the decided preference that simple and tailored. It may wear is being shown by what are knownɗo heavy embroideries of crystals.or beads, | Kashion as "Stylish" Stonta" wor or it may have only the simpleat. of coloured boblery This, in spite o

{"fast" that 'en; unwise chales, will add

it be for afternoon or evening wear. And there is a real fondness on fankilon's part for peek-a-boo tecta, "so that what one wears under is quite an im- portant as what one wears avert

Consider the model of white Georgetto Körlth its skirt active patterned with Higgsboda of black lace and its hem of alternate

Ambrold town the waist alternates lace and fabrics and the frock bandmes a ensemble by the simple addition of cape start of the black Georgette with

You can see the value of this froof-raise and detract from self-trimmings.the Tala gardenli frock, you not? You inty cover roof garden, buty stain

being gradually, adopted find and the

or shore, bib.you

it in your wardrobe, and been worn and worn and when and It to the elda náms roturn--wear 35 yet, nom

inge sfornan yelll do wellɛto.

ti shades that

This business of pleata is interesting, not only in its relation to this part- cular type of frock, but to the mode in general. Spring fashions brought us the "kick" plaat, which gives width without seeming to, and there have been many adaptations of it. Some of the skirts are plented all the way round, but others have side or front pleats to give the required fullness.

How really gorgeous a jumper frock may be la proven by a model that may he had in such lovely colours as spark red, sage groes- Delphi blue. It is made of heavy crepe aflk, and the skirt falteas. The jumper has a trimming has a clever apron treatment that gives of applique in which gold and second contrasting colour uppear. The collar, is V-shaped and the sleeves are short

There is a vogue for polka dots, and the pumper frock finds them attract. ive. When the whole costume is not

by a band of the dotted silk on the skirt.. but this is not always the case. for it renders the skirt Immune to the attrac- tiveness of other jumpers.

In general, this fashion of the two- pleto frock is versatile one. It permits the straight and narrow skirį, the pleated skirt and the wrap-around. Some of the Jumpers are straight of, line sweater fashion, some have a slight fullness over the hips, gathered into a band, and there are novelty treat- ments of line in combination with colour.

Soras-like Grimes' contare "all buttoned down before, even the high”. little collar having a button or two. But others profer, alther a V-neck absolutely untrimmed or some_clever: collar or scarf arrangement. Sleeves are quite as temperamental as necklines, and models with sleeves rub elbows it short-sleeved types, olbows there were with slesyelets und

From every point of view the two- pieco dress is a distinct acquisition to one's wardrobe. It is a comparatively ✨ now fashion, but as to the length of its. life--who can say! It seems rather“- hopeful that it has proven so,successful,-/- in combinations illustrated. made of the patterned fabric, it is used-); for it may mean that, like the ensemble. Hers soft, its popularity will assure it: the jumper and skirt are linked together retention.

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