1925-06-20 — Page 11

SATURDAY, JUNE 20, 1925.

THE CHINA MAIL.

I CLEVER

MODES for

the ARGE WOMAN

RA NYIAS LOVE

11

6074 C

tboxer LONG

PLEATS LEND

GRACE~ (PRINTS" LEND

NOVELTI

Popular Fabrics An Artistic Medium-Styles utive, pleats are the ally of the

Conform To Lines That Are

Satisfyingly Slender.

It has only been a comparatively short time that the woman who wears A forty-two and ever has entered into

Ax the general fashion scheme. matter of fact the planning and produc tion of stout apparel is a business apart from the planning and presenting of what we are pleased to term "regular" sizes. But for a long time there was no specialization, no distinction made be tween the one and the other.

The woman endowed with generous proportions could always get her size, but the fashion of the garment was identical with the perfect thirty-six" on which designers lavished the wealth their originality. And the result of or unsatisfactory, but, at times, it verged on the ludicrous, and woman wishes to be ladicrous. Yours of dissatisfaction have had their effect, and the large woman may now be apro printely clad.

The making of at ut uppered is in IL makes specialization in itself. possible the model that embodies the latest style trend; has alenderizing" lines, and at the same time fits com- fortably. Half the ugliness of an un- attractive garment may arise from the fact that it does not fit either correctly er comfortably. There must be models for all sorts of large women, not just. stout women in general.

Each Season Shows Improvement. The latest fashions prove conclusively that there is a distinct advance in the becoming appropriateness of this type of apparel, one season a step forward from the season before. This la'n resuly of careful study of the requirements of the woman for whom the model is designed in relation to the lines, fabrica, colours and trimmings of the prevailing -mode-And-curiously enough,_this_is_

the 'most successful Renson yet.

One uses the word "curiously" most advisedly, for it is not season of bright colours, gayly-patterned fabrics, Burcs,

furbelow -- n}! frilla and viewed skeptically by the woman who has the good sense to admit that whe is stout? The woman who closes her eyen to the fact in her own worst enemy, far ahe is undoing all that the mout skilled" of artist-denignes have been years in accomplishing.

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The salient featuren of the present dry mode-apart from the funda mentals of line, fabric and colour are the ensemble suit, the jumper dress, the suspender dress and the separate coat and one-piece frock that may he "usaembled" and become an ensemble," In both fundamentals and details it is really a question of how they are used, not a question of what ie used. The matter of being tall and heavy or short and heavy makas little, difference.

Practically every feature of the regular sized garment is embodied in _the_model that rape from forty-two to afty-six. The very versatility of the mode is a point in the large woman's favour, and there is Ican excuse thảu season for unbecoming, out-of-propor tion clothes, then there has ever been. The fashionable quality that is so desir- able is everywhere present, and thereis all the needed variety to assure in- dividuality as well

~ Fabrica Kapaglatty Adaptable. Whether it is the tendency to width at the hem that calls for supple fabrics, or whether it is the supple. fabrics that suggest fullness, one will never know, But the fact that shear materiala kave, become regue is a point in the large woman's favour, Georgette-in or aut of fashion-bas'always béen doar to ber heart, and the chitona, vollen · and

Georgetten-mal) to be had in “both "ank

and cotton-ure fabric leaders.

Prints are everywhere, and while one's first impression would be negative in regard to their usefulncas in stout wear, the contrary is true. You will notice that the picturell models feature, with one exception, the new, smurt designs of printed fabrics.. And you will also see that the models have been designed for the really large woman, not the woman who is merely inclined to he plump. It is with the former that we are concerned.

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les gaer of stout wear. The two-piece model of print and plain fabric le an "xpression of the jumper iden, No The enerally popular in the mode. blouse comes well down over the hips and a Jabot breaks the horizontal line, matched by a cuff frill.

mag "te necessary that the garment stay closed when its wearer is scated, and the fabric should be both supple and light-of-weight,..

Found in

It is the touch of hand-work, now. adays, that makes au de modes, both big and little, kin. It may be the frock.

This Smart Little "Handy" Apron Comes Up Smiling. Frum «Fashion's Capacious Work Basket.

A new costume slip is called the "nip and pleat" rather than the "sip and. tuck." The reason is obvious, for it fentures the popular kick plent that the sports fashion makers have tried out and found good.

FASHION'S WORK BASKET

An interpretation of the tanic is also and Georgettes belong to her, and so do the blouse, the scarf, the kerchief; in the extreme, if bought in the shops. strictly tailored; frocks for lunchedig;

shown in print-but it will be noticed nat the general rule of patterned fahries for the stout model seems to be a dark background, with the design in lighter shade or colour. And sleeves are either elbow length below the elhaw or long. Few women who re nuire a large size con afford the luxury of a ap-sleeve model, and the best designers do not use a sleeveless line.

The ensemble mit is extremely

The

The redingote verdres is populer. ole version of it being known as the flattering, especially when it includes,

Is it should, a her-length euat. ensemble dress, for it has the appear

Ton may be of one fabric, the frock of ance of a frock and separate cont. long, slender ine is given the treating the front panel effect of a contrasting fabric, and it is this relief from the somewhat bizare design of the print that makes the latter posible. A row of buttons emphasizes that line.

Another method of breaking the expans of the pattern is seen the frack printed in grupe mouifs. Falds of white serve the purpine on the skirt, and edge collar and sleeves. The collar ends in a tie that matches the belt, the latter a half affair that interferes in nu way with the slenderizing lines of the model.

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Pleats May Prove Helpful. in a fashion season where width of skirt is desirable, though hardly im-

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nether, and for the latter prints have the preference. Sometimes the cunt is lined or faced with the frock fabric, and in the pictured model . is finished with a scarf tie lined with the print. The raw of buttons on the rot is alenderizing touch.

The stout woman should be cautious of the Eur-trimmed cont. It may have a small collar of fur, but the huzury of a fer burder is denied her bit of embroidery, perang, but, as a rule, tung, straight lines, a fastuning that inclines to one ride, and a recent appearance of careful tailoring. Special

What The Large Woman, May Wear,

In fabrics, the large woroan, should keep to supple textiles and those with cut a sheen. The chiffons, laces, voiles the failles and bengalines, if not too heavy. Prists, if carefully chosen, she may wear, and colours, if they are too generously applied. A printed fabric in combination with a plain is Д favourite idea of fashion-and it is splendid fabric and colour compromise. Long lines, and broken horizonto' Fnes, wide hemline, if it is achieved naway so subtle that it does not nterfere with clendernces, the tunic and he jumper and the ensemblc--these are all the portion of the large woman. Suplier and side closings, carefully manipulated vesteer, the V-neck. the scarf and the jubet, the long sleeve,

And, these are. experally of the Bishop- details possible to her.

In brief, the new styles are adapted the fuller figure. And since stout year has become a special department, the old bugaboo of corn cost has been Moreover, the models are dissipated.

tut generously, so that they wear satis factorily, and specialista choose gar- rants that take into acutint different proportions and their needs. Wearable clother of an undeniable smartnest- that is, briefly, the story.

may be some detalk of house furnish- ment, but whatever it is, it profts by the attention given it, and becomes more valuable for the giving. Needle- work departments are very busy with things of the present and things of the fature, for summer holidays are "fancy work time."

The woman who likes the individuality that hand work give her frocks, her accessories and her Binens, and the woman who makes out her Christmas list in July-so far as she possibly can, for the sake of these let us peer into fashion's work backet, that they may, in turn, stock their own. There is no

single thing that is more helpful to and's-budget-than-the-bit-hand- stitchery, no single thing that adds more to the individuality of one's home or wardrobe than the. fue details worked off in idla moments as "pick-up" work.

In a soeuon nisen there is a dietinet vogus for theer, fabrics, one may have a variety of volles and cotten Geor. gettes, made extremely attractive by hand work. These dressca come stump ed and semi-made, and with a little care in the selection of embroidery materials may be made daintily charming. the clase with, these dresses are those of gingham and stout cotton fabrics for house wear, aprons of all sorts from the tea apron to the cover-all, children's attire.

The stitches are simple, but effective, and the work moves along fast. It mdans a more versaille wardrobe and a more individual one. These same fracks and aprons make delightful' Christmas gif, for the true housewife oppreciates them, and never seems to have enough. Finished models, to be "acen in the art shops; will serve as

guide as to the style of the dress or apron, and suggest colour schemes.

One's personal monogram on a trans- for pattern--preferably in several sizes --is an excellent investment. It means the touch of true individuality on one's accessories and one's linen. And that -the individual touch may be added to "the"gifts"you plan för another; "you can procure a composite pattern from which any initial in the 'alphabot may be traced a guide chart comes with each pattern.

It is out of the question for a single discussion to do more than touch on the many things that one may do in the fancy work line. Knitting is a story in itself, handbags of bead embroidery, petit point, applique and knit with beads are lovely there is, seemingly, no end.

work basket, perhaps, but they are close by.) If you are sed that way you may achieve an ulerince that is costly

Your frock, your coal, your beach attire, your gloves, your parasol, these and many other bits of apparel are the field for your endeavours.

Chair bucks and tidies have returned along with the, vogue for neediepoint chairs-there is yet another field for your endeavour. They are done in cut work on tan linen and are oddly finished with fringe and tassele. Any house wife on your Christmas list will render you thanks for a set of covers for nsbestos table mate-you may even keep them yourself! These covers may be round, fancy ding, equare or oval, as

have her entire ward materials, if she so che are frocks of the utmsimplishy,, tea; digner and bridge, and completa, snsemble suits, all developed in a sheep fabric.

They are to be had in my colours and, all shades of the same, but are loveliest in the flower and jewel shades. There are both simple and elaborate models, and while some wear trimmings of lace, organdy or a contrasting fabric, the very newest and most sophisticated of these frocks have adopted the fashion One sees the of self- treatments. round, square and V-neck, long slegvem and short-the Bishop sleeve specially good, and the wide hemline.

But skirts are uniformly short, as The blong diding table is the chief short as the individual can wear them. consideration in the offering of a

There aru pancia, drapertex, tler; ruffiem luncheon wet that has a square centre and godetail of the fabric; and the piece and a runner for the long sides of jabot, the heart, sheer yokes, and the table.

A novel breakfast set for plented frills are effective treatments. two hde an oval centrepiece, two-place Scroll rolls of the fabric are new, chiffon doilies, a toast cover and napkin rings flowers would follow naturally in the what more charming gift for the bride? wake of co supple a resteral, and the Many of the sideboard scarts and oran- shutter treatment is smart. mental centrepieces for the unset table are stamped in colour, the designs to be

coronation braid. outlined in cor

น. Harking Eack to the days of our great-grandmothers, there is the patch- work comfortable, patterned after the quilt so inboriously pieced from odds and ande of cotton cloth. The squares of this comfortable are of plain sateen or the fabric may be stamped for embroider ing. With the pattern came directions for making, and one has a choice of neveral colours.

Ornamental bedspreads make use of embroideries, appliques and inset laces, and it is possible to and curtains, pillows and vanity sets to match. To achieve such a set is not as difficult as it may seem, for the effectiveness- of: cimple stitches has been recognized, and cross-stitchery, French knots, the. lazy daisy stitch and both long and short "darning stitches are generously used with the result that one covers her ground pidly.

Pillows are another field, and tops, are varied not only in fabric but in shape and the mommer of their-decoration. There is hardly a department of the household that may not be beautified and individualized-and it is the same with the wardrobe. The home work' basket, should always be well-lled, for there is no lack of new and delightful hints in the overflowing basket of

Fashion.

to the linens. One can do all sorts of THE SHEER FROCK VOGUE.

things with cretona, with laces, with ribbons or one make claver shades for lamps, and condellera..

Fashion anys that kand-painting is quite the most up-to-date decorative note on wearing apparel (She does not keep her paints and trushes in her

The outstanding mode of the moment, which has assumed the, proportion of an all-occasion vogue, is the frock of a shear fabric Geargatte or chiffon, pre ferably. It is quite possible for one, to

THE ALL-BLACK COAT.

'něji idem in a xesson when harmony Many of these coats-take-on-a-note.

the keybate of the mode to the all- of luxury with their exaulalto for is perpoted for welmmings Black gorphokay, beige colourful frooks that fashion. han 1515 deughtful, and womenfolk squirrel, plallagm Mox, aquiran * güzid. so, becoming. This peat mer and mink,imulik aquifers, rock sable Elotcrepe Home, or Havant dyed, itch autablish a netë Taille, bengaline and satim the of identity in the esemble that maker lika; and rep, the wool otta, a uz balra, amy or brown. Thi tenwerkpanid - tāne kashmere spevust kéne has a praction! "valna, Alnes preferred cloth.

<Dey cost will complement several frocks.

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