1925-05-23 — Page 11

SATURDAY, MAY 23, 1925.

THE CHINA MAIL.

I FLATTERING FROCKS FOR FORMAL

JVCHOOL/Oraw of LINE A

EVES

SUBTLE CHSAA

BARBARA WINSLOW

The Evening Mode is Fashion's Most Perfect Presentation--It Shows Many Whims

of Fabric, Line and Colour,

After one has "followed the vagaries | slenderness. The trimming is the lace

of fashion through the intricate dagtime mosk, with its several divishing - into Hjarta, tailorial and afternoon apparel. it is with a distinct feeling of gratitude that she approaches the mode for even- ing. And that gratitude is directed Loward the master' minds who have compiled our dictionaries, making Juleangay syingyms für beauty. Juxury and charm, for to even briefly outline the mode for formul netasions will exhaust them all.

It is, with a feeling akin to respect that we attempt such an outline, for "the weavers, dyers and désigners that

have made it possible are artists in. thair respective lines, and the evening fruck of vor selection is a finished pro- «duet of the genius and training of these artists. The formal, made is, primarily the fashionuf feminine elegancé developed to the nth" degree, inetud- ing in its brand realm all the vagaries" whimsicalities that the daytime mude forbids.

True, many of its fabrics are found in the semi-formal afternoon fashions that are the stepping stones to evening: but there are many materials that rarely, if ever, see daylight, and it is the same with many of the trimmings

itself, ils pattern outlined in beats, and A how of satin ribbon for contrast. And for effect-sarely gret for warmthe there is a dape, handed with the beaded lace and collared with ostrich.

When a note of simplicity is sounded it is of the subtle sort The gown of crape de chine, beautifully embroidered, awes it utter churm to what might be | facetiously called lack of endeavour. It has youthfully round neck; more than a suggestion of a sleeve and the fashionable short skirt. With in worn a fringed show) that is really little more than a scurl, but by this so plender link it joins itself to the fashion ut

the ensemble.

One may not umit a reference to what is now classed na "glittering treat ments." fashion that belongs to artis. ficial light; depending upon it for its eifurtiveness. Many of the most gor- gous evening gowns make use of all- over bead treatments, diamante stud- ding, what is known as "tear-drop? heading, crystal borders, uncut bend fringen and glitter applique, all these treatments in the scintillating class of trimmings.

And there is a very great deal of choring in the frocks of chiffon that are

and lines. There is a luxury, a sein. | brushed, with a starry lustre as the

tillating glitter, a spirit of exquisite charm about the fashion of evening', apjarsi_that_no other specified made muy approach-it is of the brilliandy lighted ball room, the stately dinner, the formal reception

Fabrics And Colours Contribute. The familiar crepes-Georgette, particularly-antin, taffeta, rudium silk, chifon, het al lace are really fashion's favourite fabries for evening. If there is anything more delectable than the film of chiffon or the sheer beauty of sheer Ince, it has yet to be discovered. Trae there are fabrics of a more gorgeous richness, of a more regal beauty, but they lack a certain appeal that face and chiffon possess, and aru, in most instances, harder to wear.

One turully expects the more delicate shades in the chosen fabrics, and the pastels are, this season, prn- minently featured on the entbur card. And there are many strong coloura, robbed of any hint of crudeness, that have been tried and found good. The Rower tonen belong to fragile fabrica, und they have a generous representa tion in evening wear. There is always white, and black is never out of the picture. Binck aver fesh is featured 'Just now.

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result of a sparing use of shining beads and crystals. Applique, of velvet, in Hower motifs, gleamna with crystal dew- drop-applique is quite an fashionable as beads. The gown of beaded Geor gette, expecially the French import, is to be had in the ready-made shops in curai, sunset, orchid, French blue and ↑ many other attractive shades.

Bouffant Models Belong To Evening,

A full-skirted, sleeveless froêk of chiffon taffeta enlists the aid of embrai.. deries, appliques and the transparency of Bet, achieving a result that is the soul of sophistication. The embelliah- ment is the frock, sad the tight little bulice, sees to it that any surgertion þof plainness is avoided by using a Barrow scarf collur that matches the band at the skirt edge. A very invely interpretation of the wide skirt fashion, Truly bouffant the printed silk with its puts at the hips held in place by huge.Bows of wide moire ribbon. The folds, that identify the bodice and the drapes that identify the skirt are, hard to analyse-the model in, as a whole, Imost unuanuf. Lace at the skirt and neck edge adds un old-fashioned touch that pretends to be nuw, dy so many old-fashioned fashions do, theso days.

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In the third wide-skirted frock one imagines hoops-though they do not, of course, exist. The black velvet dots appliqued to the skirt ara reminiscent of the garb of a pierrot, but softened with an outline of peoria. The uneven hemline is bound with the fabric, and the bodice yields to the present, day fashion of a veatee; marking its depth" with a huge black velvet bow. ́ ́ Revers. form the collar, or shall we any that the collar ends in revers?

Lace demands more than passing notice, for it is used alone, in combina- tion with chiffon, and as a trimming. It is old-as a fashion, and it plays u very prominent part in the history of the mode, but how greatly designers bave improved on its uses may be Judged from a comparison of a lace frock of even a century ago. exquisite Point d'Alencon Prock, from the trousseau of the Empress Marie Louise on the occasion of her marriage The fashion of feminine alegance to Napoleon First, was recently display extends to: evening, wraps, and very ed in a Fifth Avenue window.

often frock and wrap form an ensemble. This frack was a rare piece of needle 90k crepes, are pleated; metal fabrics art, and its historical interest was very make wrap shid trim a frock; the great, bat

lace gown of this modern chiffon drean may wear a cape or coat fashion period has elements of smart- of chiffon, fur-trimmed, and the new ness as well as beauty. And the scope tapestry weaves are popular when the wrap in a separato affair, designed for wear with several evening gowns. And characterizing both wraps and, gowns, exquisite details serve to enhance n mode of elegance.

of the modern lace department in amaz- ing, for the shear loveliness of lace may bo said-quite truthfully, to rule the evening, mode. It forms, the entire length of slim frocks, appeare in circular godeta, ripples in: abbterand alternates with chiton triping

· panela «.

Another interpretation of the fur-yilk ATT LA CRE interval with strips ed too,"with the" for band at theïtKróst

And Illustrating. Ita Delicate Chirm- Proving how gorgeous laces are, and how effective they may become, fir hands of a deal ner the strķi hi „frock appeara, The softnesk PRES fabrica permite with at the: hanlivos wat; that width Hoes not detreet: from:

"packets:

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VELVET ANO KEARLS a/4 Goreng CF TAFFETA

GENEO.

AAICH FABRIC

FOR A QUFFANT AZPOCI

JOEL FEDER

THE SPRING MODE IN OUTLINE.

Tweeds. Flannela Knil weaves. Jersey Cloth.

Charmeen."

Fabrics.

The reps and twills, Satin.

Crepes and witke. Laces and chiffons, Prints of all sorts. Kasha and Kasha types.

Silhouettes.

All of straight lines: Two-thirds straight with fiara, Bouffant-for evening!

Style Details Short Skirts. High collars. Wing draportes. Surplice Closings...

Colours.

The Pastel shades. The Jowel shades. The flower shades. Black or white,

Black and white.

Navy and midnight blue, The gay tones.. Bright rod.

The reddish browns. Wood and shell brownjs Belge and feah:

Apple green.

Trimming. Detaily.

Embroideries. Appliques:

Laces.

Buttons. Cretonnes,

Quittings and bandings.? Fur, batrick and marahon Silk, ribboni prófabric fringes. Scallop and

WEAR

THE PYJAMA.

Pleture the amazemer of the wome "folk of n tentury, ngo were they toʻnië on the promenades ardeift It person clad in abyjima ensemblets might easily prove fatal, when one col siders the "undles" of that early perić" and the long road that particular ty of apparol has travelled to t lingerie" of the present day. S things were unheard of in our gran mother's day, and wheri. they did cou into being they were a masculine *ment. Later they were adopted somewhat general way for the boulo wardrobe, and, the strangeness havi worn off, they became an accepted par of the wardrobe. Their comfort an `their chic was undeniablo, so it was strangs that they should attract, atten tion for lounging purposes, and‡qúst clarate suits.come into being-man of them importations from the Easter countries where the most bonutify embroideries are born and, of cour from France.

We are living in a period "af" thi ensemble, and the idea is being, applie to every possible thing. It has reache the Pyjama, and for the privacy of the boudoir, or for the intimate afterado" ten therein, there is nothing mag charming, nothing more strictly d regle than this clever adaptation of Eastern woman's garb. 'More than that --the pyjama is sponsored for thủ berd costume-one does not, of course, won It Into the water and for the p menude. They are wearing thei Abroad, and time will tell us whether they will be generally adopted hara but this may be authoritatively stated they are "in" for informal occasiona indoors. The very loveliest of all the fabrics are utilized-silke, sutins,' motal cloths and brocades in the lead, and is very ́smurt to have trodsera of blic" Batin quite unadorned-and a Jacke of magnificence. Ono may, 'it sho economically inclined, have suvoral jackets to a single pair of trousers, one would be very up-to-date, she will match her pyjamas to a dressing gown thus completing the ensemble.

See the land, her Easter keeping,

Risen us her Maker rose Soeds so long in darkness sleeping

Burst at last from winter snows Earth with heaven above rejoices;

Fields and garlands hail the springs Shuugha and woodlande ring with voice While the wild birde bulld and sing

Charles Kingeloy.

ACCENTING THE EVENING

Without draht the formal custeme depend on its accessories for no small, portler of its charm. Nor is it the intrinsic loveliness of these details that make them su important...--although that, characteristic is imperative-hut the completeness with which euch delight- ful hit is absorbed into the picture. And not only do the pieces of costume Jewelley match each other, but they match, in so far as jewels can, the frock with which they are worn.

ין

MODE

wear Jewels that match their eyes; diamonds and brilliants are trying: pearls are universally becoming.

But all peoria do not become all types, even when they are real stones.. The present day vogue for artificial pearls is satisfactory for several reasons-the texture of the 'stones is soft und there are many "shades" of white and many colours from which to choose. And the white pearls in combination with a stone that makes the eyes seem inrger-S They must, if one may be permitted any matching stone is inclined to do- the play on words, supplement, 'gom. will solve many an accessory problem, plement, and compliment. They are of We may well give thanks to the the costume, once they're chosen. They cleverness of the artists that have given are, artful in their simplicity and "of us the clever imitations of real jewels, importance that is. seemingly, out of Genuine stones are denied the average all proportion to that simplicity. They woman, but the wearing of costume are the extravagances of fashion; but jewellery is now a vogue, and there is shey are not. always, extravagances, 90 no question of propriety when it comes far the pocket book: ia concerned, to the wearing of imitations. Real although they may, in the end; total a artists furnish the designa for this pretty sum,

costume jewellery, and the prices, make variety possible.

If one studies the subject a bit she will find that many an ugly line may be broken or concealed by a necklace ora bracelet; the shape of the face. may be altered by carefully chosen carrings or headdress, and a touch of elegance given the costume by the correct choice of a fan.

And, add though it may seem, jewellery-even the apparently innocent bracelet, must be right for the one who wears it.

The short neck appears even shorter in a choker necklace, both adding to appearance of weight. The opposite is true, as well, and the short or the stout women will keep away from anything| that gives round and round lines when up and down lines belong to her. The thin arm finds a wide brucelet becom ing: the plump urm is often-times better unadorned, though arrow bracelet may be worn.

Jewels, whather real or imitation, have elementy of becomingseas, yet the average woman is inclined to keep her frock in mind rather than herself. She should consider both, when purchasing an accessory, far, the correct choice-may mean much. Certain well-dressed folk

THE NEWEST SCARF.

Summer joins forces with winter in the newest scarf.accessory, which may be classed as a fur as well, since it employs the latter in combination with, atreamers of, silk or crepe de chine. The result is new. different, and touch-

ed with youthful' amartness the while it is, in some fashion or other, unusually becoming.

A rich, silky, one-skin pelt ls mounted upon broad silken streamers with deeply fringed ends, Jr.panese denatural

•mink; stone marten" or natural; Jup marten, dyed fitch and natural equizrel are favourite furs, and one instantly sees the possibility, of Thiking the fur to the costume by the fabric or colour

or both of the souple host o

TRY THIS ACCESSORY

Spring fathlons are waistedat, the, plasti and some of the vary Care minda of the new

are to be had fri The fashioning of comparativel

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The latest earring fashion is a trying one for many. It decrees length-novem f seven-and-a-half, even eight-inch dropant many of them touching the shouldaries Fashion expresses a preference - for drops, panels, squares and zireless. suspended from a chain or for tassel dropa, of seed pearls: In a variety sow wide there can be no failure to achleys becomingness, that is, if one can wean earrings. Some may not, though they are few.

Nothing dims the popularity of ostrich when it comes to fans, although there are scores of pretenders.

curled or willow ostrich in the rare shades of this colourful, season, are: mounted on beautiful, ornamental sticksg of tortoise, mother-of-pearl or some fascinating composition: And more! often than not it is the onó touch oỂ elegance needed to completo the, costume. But it must barmonize o it becomes tawdry--better do without a Zan.

"MY JEWELS FOR A SET OF BEADS.”

And had Shakespeare lived in the fesent century he would have said “And the beads must be of peatl" for no other bead, however lovely has quite the charm of the colourful iritation of the loveliest of gems That diminution in their popularity is due to the fact that the pearl has sla appropriate for any occasion or at any time of the day, which fact, Added to th beauty, assures its desirability fo

heen

They take to themselves these artificial stones, all the lovellast of the partal shadesi mame of the deeper, anlours and black. They are combined white with colur, and they are, at ziemia, used, with emerald and sapphire beads. For earrings; had dresses, necklaces; on frock or hat; there have no wor comfort of safety insulent

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wouen by the Wife

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leta, and the latoly imperative-brooch- yal. And many a woman has found th pearls that her valuable dewals could not gi