1925-05-02 — Page 11

SATURDAY, MAY 2, 1925.

THE CHINA MAIL.

BRINGING THE HAT MODE

The Fabric Hats of Early Spring Are Being Re- placed by "Models of Straw "Both Tiny Hats and Large for Summer.

The tile of millinery fashions. rises and whb with 'w frequency only extelle hy the tides of the orgjid just et present it's high Lake for the spring hat mode, though it will not be ing before „efl- tide will have art.in. Planter marks the peak of the modemone might say the peak at the peaked hat modem ani what styles du ni already exist are intiqat. One must eanalanbiy keep in totach witli Lonciencies that she may Jucher allies there is always fashion newa in pra lugst

Even white wo ere rejoicing that we have passed From the show of velvels, Leming Aelvetac rant their shadows Bi-frot in trimmings--nt we know that the anset mil;nummer hat will feature Winter fabrica in spite of the uppanent inconsistency of the kien. But for the imaginate present we nyny enjby Renews and interest, og selves be. The zeered stagnan Imp. its lichsome fabrin and rich endourful trimmings. For f day or a work hapetty mapi.h the mode is stabilized.

In figtumtiva vein the premeri zitun- bon Pay be likened to a roup of chy indanila, Pach 247 Samé few m le larger than, other the stylus moris, general, but. Pere are a Very STOL mans of protically equal importance with the result that very Lype is Teusainbly sure of at lensi one, aut beually More tham one becoming Thin And Use very fact that so many styles exist, provis' ennvilsively tar une style is, like thé, cloche, generally becoming"

Shanes Show Unusual Variations.

It would almost seent as though there were do two shapes alike, yet there is, one port of similarity in practically every moles--they are short in the Back the may be attribute this to Jarge collins, for there are not the sholders of both suits, and eats having entrefully tailored; it is the prevalence of the shingled and that makes this line inperntive. In front and as the sides, heims are medium, large or tiny. when not wholly missing.

Almost any drawn will do, although Le puintod crown, jauntily dentedi ar prended, has a large representation. We may feel grateful for this, variety, of fine and wize, since it assures, or Ritould assure, becoming hats for every And the women with short hair. who has always found, the large hut becoming, but felt it would be denied her beenuse of the led size required, may rejoice. There are large hate with small head sizes, planaed specially for Ther

Among the many models in croques, silk, ranginin ribbon, straw and straw and silk rombined. the ali straw hat may Beard, especially in picture models, though it is more oft used with felt or silk, when at the small, Hic variety. Close fitting poko, Battering mushrooms, smart turbans and tailleurs of all kinds employ two muteriels with variety and charm, and amumerable colours and trimmings ndë to their diversity. And one again those modela speak with an unmistak able Parisian acceni.

quite in line-in ene respect-with the hate that have been, are the hats that are. The small hat is ampertesst. und when its fines give thought to the shape of face and head, as well as the neckline, nothing could be more beco5% - ing But for afternoon andireas wear the large has is in demand, although there are certain types of small hate that may be worn, correctly with formal Sharks, A prophecy-nut hals and Jubbed hair will dominate, this summer! Trimmings Define The Spring Vogue While there are many mudels developed. in fabrics that are ortamental in them- kel vas-such a "fabric" is meuffion braid that simialates the fur by that name- the plave occupied by trimmings, both foreign and domestic, is important. It may be the trimming itself or the way it is applied, but its relatum to the hat mode is clearly defined. One cannet elaim, by even à stretch of the imagina-

•tion, that this year's trimmings are new. but one may truthfully say that new uses have been found för åld.friends.

There is always a place for embroi- deries, and at times for the all-over embroidered hat, in the millinery mode, And hand in hand with embroiděvy goes applique, and, this year, the newly revived quilting. All three, of these trimminga permit a clever use of colour, the butter one of the chief characteris-

THE GRACIOUS: ARS

KIFY OPOORNG SPING

ties of the mode in general, and the hat | Brondon the shoulders of the model, und mode in particular.” And hand painted ¦ you can visualize the inappropriateness siiks are being shown.

Uke

of the brond, drooping brim. It is un

Birds and flowers-both synonymous ] effeétand aid to apparent size. with the spring and summer months- are included in the trimming list. A more extended use of the latter than the former, to be sure, but a generous of both.. From out fashion's linaquel, made up of every

known blossom and some that are unknown, roses aland forth with their insistent charm, varying in size from the weg blooms that make an entire hat to the hug, single blossera that droops from the Roppy bring of a picture hat of hair, While there is very little use, so far, of the strich plump-cavalier wise- oatrich is prodigilly 'used by the bust

Just to prove to you how sure felt is

of its position in the millinery mode- the hat of Bangkok straw with brim of felt. The former is an aristocrat of the many strows that fashion Cavours. yet su insistent has felt became that it shares honours in a tailored model that trims itself with a band and catachon of ribbon. A sports but, thin, of the Better sort, and proof conclusive that felt is with va all the year round.

Returning the compliment, a hat of felt permit a brim faced with straw. It crown has the familiar peaks, while

designers. There in more of youth in the brim turns up sharply at the side

front and is held in place, by a jewelled i

the astrigh funcy than there is in the pin. Another hat of the sports typx, plume, so the use of the former needs indicative of the millinery mode la no further explanation. Ribbons,

general, for even while it is the struw especially the velvets-that prophesy

hat sonson, felte will not be missingt fall-are important, and fancy pina

continue an a part of the trimming when they do not fanbian, they will

mode, «Lner will dignify summer hats,

trim, or help to fashion.

Especially the larger shapes, and the Colours come, and rule, briefly, their scarf-of lace, ribbon or silk, will be go away. We have a bright hat season good-It is, already.

or a dull. But no matter what the featured colours, the black hat remains part of the mode. It is always smart;

གླུ་

The Return Of The Picture Bat.

To certain types of women, the large,

floppy brimmed hat in most becoming.it is always correct; if paracases un

To other types it is a positive menace

doubted dignity. For the tailored with its drooping brini and size. Of costume-the black hat pictured, its Jate it has narrowed. Its usefulness appropriatenosa nasured. Batin and because of the demand for small hats straw are its fabrics; burnt goose the

to fit the cropped head. Designers have busled themselves with this type of hat and now it is possible for the woman with short hair to have a large

hat that has been designed Box for

*

trimming, and it has done away with a brim, or, perhaps, scalloped it and turned it upside down.

With every day there conten some

PHYCLE Bt chiming to be a pede bik

to hold any passing

her. women-who shouldn'twil continue to indulge, but slender women eat. A brim of straw and a crown of who should-may profit by the bright coloured checked plaid, ribbon, fashion.

La hat all of grosgrain that may bu One of the new large hats in illas rolled or folded for packing away, hats rated hore. There is beauty in Hd Iacy in the jewel shades with all over un- straw, and the trimming of lace, banded Ibroideries, truly hate that "pass in the down with two shades of ribbon, night." But it bords, the situation emphatices this fabzie benety. Such a interesting, and flat is as should be, hat must correctly frame the face-for hats are truly the keystone of the Iris ready a trams, not a pictarotas arch of Lanhion.

مرانی کے دن کو توان مدیر و کمر

JOEL FEDER

NG

OFSTRAY DEFI APODEL or rel

WE WELCOME

BATTON☺he STRAPS

TAILORED 17000

ONE PLUS ONE MAKES ONE.

Typical of the prevalling tendency to match costume details in to of sets,, and, call the result, un, ensemble,, thin, hat; matched with: a scarf,

becomes a must charming addition to quit, separate frock or coak," *hat itself is of white crepe with a ficinul of red straw, the latter mate by hand-made flowers at red silk appliquer on crown, and brim./ scarf íz of red and white creou to match the fat, and the flowers appliqued. Fupon one end farní a secofid note of identify án thé enamablogt

ODE UP-TO

-DATE

EVERY WARDROBE HAS

ZIT VANITIE

In spite of the luxury of fabrics the predominance of rich enlourings, and the value set upon ornamentation, the "trend of the mode is toward a tailering that in paradexical, In view of the elegance of the component. part. While this trend is apparent, even in lingerie and boudoir apparel, in in, this corner of the wardrobe that one may seek, with a reasonable ansurance of Anding, what may rightfully be called

vanities.

These vanities are desirable to every woman, whether she incline to apparel of the strictly tailored sort, or finds happiness in frills and furbolown And this anity axlats, even when the gar

t itself a possessed of a simplicity that borders on plainness Lingerie,

pecially Anda aplicity in

for undergarments must be chosen quite a carefully an outer garments, if the latter are to prove satisfactory.

The materials of both lingerie and boadoir apparel mode have much to do with making those modes. luxurious. Chiffons, Georgette, glove silk and the sheurest, filmient cottons are used for the former chiffons, faces,' rich silks and brocades for the latter. And any elaboration of either mode in carefully thought out and applied.

Two fabrles-demand our special atten- tion-chiffon and Georgette, the latter' aften spoken of; and really seaming lika

practical chiffon. It might even be claimed for Georgette that it has proven the greatest fabric discovery of all time, ince it in, in its 'Snest weaves, quite as sheer as chiffon, and were uti factorily. The placen, where chiffon cain be used that Georgetts cannot arë shore ] than offset by the pieces Georgatte can be used that chiffon cannot!

Ecth these materials play an import. ant part in the fashioning of rober intime and lingerie. Aping their beauty and their practicaly, are the retton voiles and cotton Georgettes, both satin- factory for every day wear; both handled with supreme Arthiry by the designers of Aina garmonta. Glove silk enters into the lingerie made and there is some use of the finer batistes and handkerchief linen,

Whether elaborate or simple, the negligee may be one of three styles- the pajama suit; a version, of the cout effect that we have known sa long, er an ensemble-composed of degliged. and coat. This achieves variety, which is imperative at a time when the made In general in extremely varied, so Caried, in fact, that one is constantly in docht is to what to choone.

But

F

.

11

whatever the choice, one will and reason "The Border Line of Hur satisfaction.

Consider the pictured models. The one is a new version of an uld friend, the cunt negligee, developed in chiffon and lace. It is a bit subtle in its lines, but achieves simplicity nevertheless, it is dainty, it is unmistakably feminine The boudoir robe of this type will never wholly disappear, for it in the as con- 'cessior to frivolous apparel that many

women permit themselves.

In contrast we have the pajama suit --giving allegiance, as it happens, to the East, whence the pajamas originat ed. The fabric is of the East; the line: are of the East, but its wearer is of the West. It does not lack for luxury,

Fashion.

The border line of fashion is fittingly, the border! And it dis-, tinguishes this years' spring coat from the spring coat of 1924 in a way an unmistakable as it is smart, No matter what the general styla of the cont itself, it will choose for itself a trimming that may be used as a border, and it in little short of amusing how versatile thene trim- mings may be.

At times, the fabric itself bordered as to weave; again, when?

the fabric in sufficiently supple itk

horder me with tucking may

AN

amaruching, the latter verge

another type of vanity, but it poncnser & comfort and freedges that!

in keeping with the tailored trend.

thu very aw the use short hair and present day activities-one shade of the material upon aot to mention the bromidie 'emancipa- another shade is sponsored, and the tion of woman!"

ever present artificial flower trim ming provides a border of ribbon

The Occident Pays Its Rennecta To The Orient In Both. Fashioȧ And Fabric

READY-TO-MAKE.

For her who can sew, but has had no complete line of ready-to-make dresses, experience in designing, cutting, or skirts, blouses and tunes, completely fitting, provision has, of late, been planned and almost completely fitted- made, and is such a way that it ohể cannot expret more of the ready-to- wil substantially help in the expendi muke garment than she does of the. tures of the dresh allowance that her ready-to-wear, and all of the latter de budget permith Few housewives but not fit exactly nor coma in the correct. know and make generous; use of the length. These convenient pieces of simple cotton frocks and aprons, that apparel corde in a reasonably wide are offered in the art departments variety of fabric, colour and lino garments that take on a touch of tn, many of them have Parisian ource, dividuality when they are embroidered the embroideries of the sort that only with simple atitches; garments that are the French scem able to do. For the somi-made and require only few woman who is limited as to her insana, stitches to Anish them, and no fitting or for her who would have a grenter, at el. But it is not so generally linown variety than her purse permits, these that many of the large shops carry a garments are a eure and safe solution.

“VOGUES OF 1925."

The vague, for kanha, flannel, charmeon and faille,.

The rogue for facre) chifford and the two combined.

The vogue for atripes, for plaids for prints

The vagué for coats of valveteen or cretonde;

The vogue for the ensemble in the realm of accessories

The vogue for Bangkok hate Telts and Milan straws.-

The vogue for printed or plaided bathing frocks, Digi

The vogue for the pajamas for) both house and beach wear.

The vogue for pastel, dowel; rain-The vogue for the labot, bow and dower tones.za plastron and the gilo

The vague for the jumper or “The vogue's for embroderies, two-pleca frockand quilting and applique, RATE

The vogue for the costume en The vogue for the pointed erows semble noite

with folds or "dents:

We have come to expect fur, wa show ng surprise at ostrich anj marabou, put" forward as a nabi stitute for fur, and no trimming collection would be complate, with out embroideries and appliqués: Both of the latter are extremely verantile, and there is practically no limit to the imagination of designers, not only in the use of the emproideries and appliqués but,

in the motifs of their design.

And quilting! Along with ruch ing it has come to us from another fashion age, and proves a delights. ful addition to ho decorations. But whatever, its form, there is, sure to be some sort. of elaboration that may be used in the border way, and a charming way it is.

EASTER.

The fasts are done; the Avez said: The moon has filled her horn; And in the solema night I watch

Before the Easter morn.

So pure, no still the starry heaven, So hushed the brooding air, (could hear the sweep of an angel's)

wing

If one should earthward fare. Edna, Dean Proctor.