1925-04-25 — Page 11

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'SATURDAY," APRİL 25, 1925.

THE VALUE OF THE

It is Not a Matter of Speculation, for it is Assured-But Dominant Themes Are of Very Special Interest This Season.

And the trend of everything that goes to make up the mode in toward a certain anart youthfulness that is leserib-

Whether mede be in its peipient ; details of both lines and trimminga. sinte. or settled for the sport duation of its particular season, one is always assured of the firmly entrenchmi posi- tion of that old stand-by. the one piece dress. We make no pretence of Mine warding it withought we rarely give it a thought, we have homme de nerus. tomed to its convenience and never

æble.

First Of All Know Yourself!

Acceptance of the preverbed rede should not mean thoughtlessness, but i varying smartness. Aven when should inspire to a"better knowledge of formidable rivals are put forth, else's self in relation to it. Ant whon Ebut have more than a deal of comfort ul elegance, they make no perceptible difference in the popularity of the frock that may be slipped an over one's head with few, if any, fasteninge to coINE undone. Convenience in its first, best mind mitte, ame.

As this articalar time of li ven the one-piece dress is smartly promin ent for it in the beginning of spring- a time when change is imminent, and, 217 21 way, imperative. Warnt days demand clothes of a lighter weight; the winter cons of fur or heavy fabric is disearded; the summer-weight cont in the thing, auf with it. hy virtue of iis appropriateness, goes the one-piece #dress. This happens both spring and full, but for several seasons past we have been working up to what is known as the gouame ensemble, which includes drená na a two part division of a three purl whole.

White we may not, perhaps, pove n value of swice the coat, it shows that This garment has become doubled in its impurtaner, since it complements both the supurate cont and the suit cunt. And the parts are interchangeable. So į wide is the variety from which one may select that the three-piece suit may he supplemented with other frocks, and the separate epat may be superfectly matched to a dress that it becomes an nepible suit. This by reason of the variety in fabrics, colours and Ends af rolours.

Tendencies Crowd Out Realities. Even when a sode is apparently, settled. there are always fendancia threatening the realities. We no sooner feel sure of a waistline, a neckline, a skirt or a sleeve length; than the one ar the other geen up or govs down, or changes its "direction. It in fashion's way of keeping our interest, without which she could not exist.

Behind alaned doors the most eminent designers work feverishly to undermine the vary modes that they created and inunched; und tooma ure busy and dye-pots bubbling in the interests of a mode to

come.

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there is wide variety of really chie styles, that embody more than one interpretation of each separate detail, there is litle excuar for the favorrect choice. The slender, the plump, the staut, the short, the tall may all be not only pleasant, but becomingly and cor- reetly lock How: sen?

The silhouette, in a very general way.

is slunder, especially when at rest. But in movement it beumes evident that slenderness does not always mean a parrow akiet, for fullness, cleverly son- realed, appears. If you can stund a broadening of your hemline, when you walk, then there is much of beauty in the fashion; if you cannut, you should keep in the straight and narrow way, and both are fashion. Your skirt length should be as short as you ca wear it.

No mutter what your height or huild, there are whistlings enough to assure you the most antisfactory line from Shoulder to waist-wherever you desire to place it. It may be at your hips. as your normil waistline, high or absent altogether. The undoubted tendency toward a higher waistline will have ita followers, but like every really trying fashion, it will not rule the mode to the exclusion of the mere familar and generally becoming low tires.

Sleeves are long or short, necklines are high or low. The latter are either printed or spuured, when low and [E]nel. The former have so many elever variations, when they elect to be fong, that they demand representation in very group of models. The sleeve- tesa frock i everywhere, but women are thinking twice before adopting it. making sure of its appropriateness to their own built. Only the slender, well-rounded arm should dispense with It sleeve, but other arms will, no doubt, continue to do so,

And Now We Come To. Details. Even on the much-liked blae'; satin frock-outin is having a Lemporary vague, you know there appeurs an accent of cufour, in scarf; touch of applique or embroidery, piping or vivid tie. Both colour and fabric may be classed as details, as well as, funda- mentals, for they have much to do with the ornamentition of the mode. Panant aleeves of chiffon-the cuffs guy with colour-ure a smart treat- inent; the use of dyed faces on after- noon frocks rival the smartness of ecra co; artificial flowers lend a colour

toucti

And practically every whim of the designer is reflected in the onepiece dress. It may have little to do with cont fabrics, although it has something nt this time, for the fabric of the cost suit may trim the dress and the fabric of the latter line the ccnt. Андр example of this, a costume auit of charmeen has a coat of the latter lined with fine French falllo; the dress-of the fallie has appliques of the chur The pictured models stress detalls meen down the front and ornamenting oven as they show un fabrics and the smart patch pockets. And yet colours and the casentiale of the mode. the coat la so individualized that it may The flame red corn-flower print finds be worn with any harmonizing one- the plain red attractive for the pleco frock.

extremely clover searf sleeves that are It is necessary that only a brief re- a whim of the moment, and finds tassels ference be made to fabrics and colours, amusing. Another use of the scart for -although they are by no means a lesser sleeves and collar individualizes the

part of the mode. It is just that there -are-to-many of the latter "md"Buch"X","Appliques of white crepe. Nate the model of black stepn with its striking

•Katisfying variety in the former, that overdraps; the unaven bemline, and the -one may chooso. as she will, but lines bound button holes. are rather more definito-es, too are

which

Proving the extrames to,

THE CHINA MAIL.

11

ONE PIECE DRESS

SHPSARA

SILVER GRAY RED

LACE-AIYO ESTAR

من بار در

TALEP

THTIMIZED.

fabric. And there is a piping down the front and along the upper edge of the hem-to matchi

fashion goes in her endeavour to estab. over a straightline slip permits the liah a reputation for versatility, we fabric to trim itself, with the exception have the bouffant frock of gray rep of collar and sleeve bands of plain "silver-spray" the shade--with a clever use of tinted lace and embroideries. The slit blouse, strapped and buckled down with steel buckles over a fichu of the lace, in odd, and one notes the ruffled sleeves. Not an easy fruck for the average woman to wear, for it belongs to youth, and slender youth, at that.

The influence of the cross-word puzzle craze was sure to reach the fashion is not expected to solve it. world, and one does not mind it, if one It may even for something different in a print. A Hoive your problem, if you are looking tunic overdreas, with wide, full flounce,

་

Runner up for the popularity of the jumper dress of hennu crepe that pne-plece frock, we have the amert fringes the edges of the shirt worn over the dinely pleated skirt. It serves its, purpose in the interests of variety, but has no chance of ousting the popular stand-by. That is not, really. the question. The latter resolvca itself into the problem of a variety sufficiently wide to satisfy. For this season, at least, "satisfaction is guaranteed."

REMEMBER WHEN BUYING HOSIERY.

That full-fashioned hose, which are best for all purposes, have a triangular shaped section at the vary end of the toe and less fabric knit under the instep. side of the heel and under the calf of They have fashioning marks at each the log, as well as just boneath the garter welt at the

malde the garter welt, which makes There is always a gap or opening this top more elastic.

While many of the features of the

full-fashioned hose are imitated on circular kalt hosiery, a little study will be detected. prove how easily, the differences may

The outstanding shoe, fashion of the moment is the two colur pump, Bome rest of the aboe, and at times the second. times the vamp is different from the

colour takes the form of an applique on the first.

Why Not Remodel It?

And by "" is meant the rock that has outlived its novely and freshness, but not its usefulness co far as fabric is concerned; the frock that everyone knows, but that has still a deal of "wenr" laft in it. And this year there need be not even a minute's hesitation as to whether the making over of such a garment in worth while, since. the mode provides a dozen and one different ways of changing its appearance and giving it АП entirely new lease of life.

First of all, fashion is predis posed to very general use of fabrics and colours in combination -two of the former or two of the latter, or both. And working in exactly. the opposite direction from what would be expected, the most radical changes make remodelling onclext And there are radical changes everywhere-akir longth und width: sleeves; the neckline- but each and everyone of them can be achieved from the old.

It's a very simple matter to shorten the skirt, far simpler than to lengthen it, and a widened skirt, or the semblance of it, may be achieved in several ways, chief among them the use of godets and inverted plents. The necktie, which is probably, batera, may be built up with a yoke effect into a high neck- that is a becoming style for you: or it may be made higher, and the piecing covered by a collar in some becoming shape. It is possible, when the neck is not 100 low, to split the blouse in front forming revers that may be faced with a contrusting colour or inbric.

And the lieveless dress may acquire sleeves--plain, bishop, flow ing or cuffed in one of the many smart ways. And the appearance of the dress may be changed entirely by the use of a vested, i plastron or a yoke. All these elanges may be made with another tubre, matching in texture but net in shade or coluur, or by the use of a print, a plaid, or some novelty pattern. Consider a frock in some xhade of brown changed by tlie usa of one or two shades of the same colour, oping the umbre den. Two dresses that harmonize in texture and colour may be worked over into a jumper outfit-there need be not waste, this year.

Two old favourites have return- ed to the embroidery field, and wa are welcoming chenille and wool back to the fold The latter, especially, is favoured, being used in the Rossian, Czecho-Slovakian, Bulgarian and Hungarian embrol deries that are so popular,

·REPLACING THE FURS OF

WINTER

Pur, like felt, belongs to every month of the year. It is winter fabric and trimming; it is in one through the summer as a material and un embellish- ment; it is of an importance, that is hardly realised. until one becomes analytical and studies it in its generat relation to the made, Gone the day when fur rout was treasured frum year to year with only oreasional nicees- mary repairs and only randy the luxury of remodelling.

But the audern, wardrobe includes a fur cont as a matter of course, while the more luxurious collections of clothes may include several. The furs that are favoured for sports wear have little in common with the peltrics that fashion.

For Early Spring Weur Tho. Fur Jsequelto Is A Comfortable Rival To The Fahrle Coat.

the dress coal, and the latter may be. made up of several kinds of skins that are not recognized for formal evening Wear, As a result of the rapidly, increasing demand for skins, the pro- blem of purchase is made oxtremely complicated, for in at least eight casca out of ten an offering is not what it, scerns, and there is nothing at all in

a.name.

The grando dame, of a century ago. knew mink, abal, sabio, otter, marten and' ormine, but she would be wholly bewildered. In the fur shop of to-day, and ans distinction between pelis would. have te be MORIN BY WERE ALIENTHAMOET OCH for, when they are really good, are compáratīvalý expansiva; “and” should” like diamonds, be chosen carefully, at á shop where the bayer has implicit con-

fidence in the reputation of the shop itself. And while there is little, if any, need of an exhaustive knowledge of ftra in general, there should be an adequate knowledge of the furs ore has in mind to hay.

Perhaps the ermine roat, that is really nothing but wenad, will be quite as antinfactory to the wearer, as the genuine fur, if she never finds out about it; but there is always the possibility that some friendly enemy will know and say It in ue with any imitation, for even though its perfection may be the sincerest flattery to the all of the worker in fur, it is not a credit to the wisdom of the buyer.

Sumper furs include the fur cont and the scarf of fur, apart from the skins that are used for trimming The fur coat is usually in the form of a inequette, introducing, and bowing out the real summer "Beaxozp; ità use through July and August la somewhat Emitext. With the spring quit and the dino-piece street frock the 'far scarf comes into its own, and especially this year when the neckline of the average kuit coat-as well as the coat for general wear-is extrumuly talleted.

The fur scarf vuries but little, from Houson to season, 'in its styling, so it is quite possible for one to invest a considerable sum in it with very little apprehension as to its future appro- priateness. Then scarfa come in one. two and three-pince styles, the price depending on the number and quality. of the skin. And thus ong may be sure her Russian ruble in not dyed fitch, or her squirrel Hearf deverly trented rabbit, it is well to proceed with care. Since it is not the privilege of the average woman to invest hundreds of dollari in a comparatively brief Ruggian sable nurkpiece, it is well to know that „dyed fitch makes a handsome substitute,

Tailored Neckline Of Both Buit One-Piece Dress Maków(The Bear Impetatiye;

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and is not so cheap, at that, a really splendid imitation costing more than some of the genuine furs that are con sidered both smart and fairly costly,

For your general information it is not only interesting, but wise to know, that what are known as winter rabbit skins are made into excellent Imitations of heaver, nutrin and even seal; and. there is a good profit in the business of raising rabbits for this purpose. Any kind of a goat or a sheep that has curly hair is made into broadtail, caracul or Persian lamb; it is even hinted that when the hair does not earl it is treated to a more or less perman- ent wave,

Hare is substituted for fox; katinsky end, weusel masquerade as sable, and prairie dogs become minke when they get into the furrier's hands.

But do not despise the imitations! It is only when you buy the latter and pay a price that would purchase. the real thing that you may feel that you have beon not enly deceived, but abused, und if you find it in an imitation, it is Tone the less a beauty.

The possession of a coat or scarf that cost a very great deal of money is something of a care, as well as an expense-for repairs, remodelling, storage during the month it is not worn. There is both Joy and satis faction in the garment or piece that one may wear with an assurance of its amart becomingness and without fear for its safety. There is a path midway between the real and expensive and the cheap and tawdry.. One does not havS contempt for the good imitation-sho may own and be proud of it. But sho should know it is an imitation when she buys it.

DID YOU KNOW..."

THAT so much a part of the costume has the scarf become that the attention of designers is now directed to its uses t And just now, to be smart, you must knot, your scarf about your throne in a big floppy loop over the shoulder.

THAT a new hat, with soft, adjust able brim and crown, is made of gross grain ribbon in two-tone combination.?. They come in several styles and show novel stitchings of metal, and silk in' scrolls, squares and lattice designs.

THAT wool jersey, much improved as in texture, is being sponsored as a rival to the more recent Bannels and kostn clotha? It is used in many of the most charming interpretations of the two- piece costume that is a sports mode yogue.

THAT, speaking of sports, the newest purao

designed specially for wear with sports attire? It has all the necessary Attings, even including a. place for cigarettes, and folds neatly to the size of one's pocket. V

THAT the very loveliest of the frocks and blouses for spring feature hand work? It may be embroidery, of afikk, Wool chenille or beads; but it is more than. Hely to be hematitching or the newly popular fagoting.

THAT

gloves and hosiery are agals Yorming combination, adding another ensemble to the many that are popular?, And when one is so inclined, the shoes may prove an exception to the rule a ét "Taraç'e ;s"-crowd.”: