1925-04-18 — Page 7

SATURDAY, APRIL 18, 1925..

THE MODE

THE CHINA MAIL.

IS

CERTAINLY—

WINSLOWY

"A COAP of

Los COLLAP

WEARABLE

The Song of the Shirt.

One of the most Important.singte features of the spring fashion symphony the tailored shirt-- "in loto" or as an Influence, The popularity, but not the usefulness and charm, of the one-piece dress is temporally eclipsed by the vogue of the two-piece or jumper ¡drem, a French origbation, and— ke all of the latter group, an iden of acceptable Inshion value.

Any style that fonds to inter- changeable parts Is economical, and the two-piece dress' is, such a style. Its make up of a skirt and separate blaune, known in tho marlance of the rude as

shirt."*"on its influenco extends Tar beyond the realm of its original Leonception, gffreting even the ond

piece frock that it has rivalled

it has buttons and tieu and belts, for it has no one of the three; it in usually of the overblouse type; i matob or contrasts, with the skirt; and it employs such features ns the plastron, the yoke and the new, boyish collars. All of these fentures"ugo adapted to the frueli et single piece, the lastat fre atently simulating the two-ploce modut

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT the mannish neckline uf the newest conts and suit conts makes the scarf almost a neces xity? Many cunts feature a seari collar, but when the line is unres lieved, brilliant strip of printed silk. at least two yards in length. imes supply the deficiency.

THAT very now, very clever slip-on sweaters of chiffon mohair lace down the front? They are trimmed with "rayon?" (nÄifein) Įsik) und exploit the fushan of the Pulub collar, The vary, newest and most charming of the sports shaies come in this new sweater.

THAT, taskelled vanities pl-gold or silver, exquisitely ungraved, with enamel motifs, are xuet [copies af original French designa? They are finished with a silk cord and tassel, and hide in their depths. the necessary powder, lipstick and rouge.

THAT, the advance models of spring shoes exploit colour, and. there will be many lovely shades of brown, navy blue and gray? Red and the very brought colours are prodigally used aë trimmings, but not as materials.

4

It Permits the Interchanging of Parts-Its

Luxury is Tempered With Subtle "

Simplicity-It is Interesting.

No matter what your perspective, with, the Buyish simplicity of their the mode a wenaldo. If you' beline indest dother group will adse inspress

to fine Tabres and care erfourings; if i with empherty, but it will be of an you are the truly inilored tyael if the fashion of femiling PARTNERS appeals to you; if you entre pour inmediul interent in attire for the morning, thenftériven or the event;

westones that KIYours of feminine churmat really more future; but ature subtle. The former bas" to do will the strictly talored suit; the rw- pere sumper desk; the shall, practi-

waly Jars shar of severity. The latter basa sundust ention that is unholeil in the dressier coats; ensemble szita, and evening Tracks

you bid not a little, but much, f eally manned hat: the manich, tep- interest. Araf' that interest togebog enak; all the sports fushings; it stops every detail of evry reposate fehen I for everywhere and finds thing new and adaptable. The Leatres of lach an how aid abroad at our Mouthern resorts and along the Riviera tave tried at the new males zal found them good.

Suaple Things For 'Morning Wear Par the Bostess of the early parz ng the day--and for sparts as well-

Even the simplest things are tased | there are simple things, young in their with the luxary of either fabric, coboar feeling. They are the set of frocks

trinimigoing nothing of their and susts and coats that one travele p simplicity in the gure-s. There is w the country; or m town on the alwaysqmietbig shut the movies. xtrert Far aftanbon sophilliention of spring that the modes of winter du Furrps in expressent in faticies, colour Dot pushtons--a freshners and ametin menemes, novelty trimmings and clever. variety the, peming spring will 201 disappoint: The les cady assembled, from which our atthe will take its general outline, are foren more authentic than they usually are at this time of the year, the region for thin Leing a suitability that is unusual in its character.

The Silhouette Is Varied. While different desigwrs may use different numest for their persunal inter pretation of the dared skirtline that Pesulas in a ner silhouette, the mute really employs two general outlines- the straight at the flared, the latter achieved in ways that ar both delight ful and puustil, The wider hemline i in keeping with the spirit of phot kair and short skirts--it means freedun that is out only acceptable, but imperative. Details of adortent may, differ, hut the idea remains, per mitting variety in the achievement.

31

interpretations of the silhouette. Por evening beauty and grace in semi- teemal and dance attire; and hemuly and gives of the more dignified kind in formal things.

In fabries une must stress the reps, tilla, jersey "and" flannel for labored and sports attire and charmera and sha. The two latter bridge the gap between Caired and drogs. siks, crepes especially in printa; chiffon rai Georgette; the range of fabrica is wo great that the will be an extremely narticula woman who cannot be satin- fied. And it is the same with colours.

the rainbow, jewel, Hower and pastel lars; the blues, greens and browns; black, white, and natural; there i gratification for all.

Would you have a cont?

You may have either a long, tailored cont ur an elaborate, fur-bordered mode .with. Appliques or embroiderien to add to its'

Compared to the present, interpres,hury. Would you have a suit? It may

So

tions of it, the original flared silhouette was crude, for it was apparent. subtle are the methods. of skirt lines that one, finds herself possessed of a flare that does not affect in any marked degree the slim lines that the average Woman Heydk. The kick pleat that give the sportswoman freedom and the godets, un circular flares that permit grace to the dancer are achievements, in that they fall, when not in netion, into straight lines. And both ripples and plenis ara, expressed in all the new spring fabrics, their expression marked by the finest craftmanship and the cleverest details.

One group of models will impress

you

be a long-coat tallared suit or a short- roat tailored suit; it may be two or three-piece; it may be almost gorgeoun in its elaboration. Is your chrice a trucks?

are; it may be one of two-piece; it It may be straight line or

nay be high or low of neck; short ar long of sleeve, There are colourful variations of each and every mode, all pointing unmistakably, to the ensemble. There Are Three Featured Modes. Outstandingwe have the ensemble sult, the jumper dress, the strictly tailored coat or suit. They rule a band willing tubjects, but ably avaisted by the many other fashions. The ensemble certainly claims, even

ARE YOU KEEPING IT BOBBED?

ure

BORDENED FABRICS RIVAL THE ALLOVER PRINTED SILMS.

Everything

linked to everything else, by fabri demands, attention,

colour or trimming, and no wanan is correctly attired if she be a thing of shreds and patches" which does not. ol courau, need to be literally. A mixture of colours or of lines that resulted in lack of harmony would result in failure, as well.

NOVELTY BAZTERNEL FABRIC WITH SCARLET

TEN NEW SHADES TO REMEMBER.

R:bble-a gauze gray. Gris Fonce-deep gray. Agent-silver gray, Topaz-the pastel goll Plage-sand beige.

Laitude-lettuce green. Amando-a delicate green. Menthe a deeper green. Pervenche blue-pear! blue. Caoutchouc-a pinky beige.

HAND IN GLOVE WITH

STOVELTY

No matter how much curiosity and desire to test the loyalty of her suitor might tempt her, the modern woman would" hesitate to throw a glove into the den of a wild beast. There might Be a chance that the loyalty might fail and the glove be lost to her, and the increased beauty of this particular accessory hat resulted in increased cost, so that lost gloves are a cause for more than a passing pung of reg: et or annoyance. For the correct enne,.- ble demands correct handwear, and no one may deny the demands of this most Si:sistent vogue.

Whether the frock be tailored and long-sleeved or. rather inclined to the more dressy, type, that is, very often, sleeveless, gloves are imperative; and when the fairly short glove is worn with a short-sleeved or sleeveless dress, it follows that attention is centred on the glove itself. Fashion has met thie demand for beautiful handwear in way that cannot but prove satisfactory. In the attempt to achieve elegance with restraint there were, naturally, a very great many errors, made, and by that is meant errors in the amount of colour! and elaboration, used.

is,

reson one must be certain of her colours in relation to the ensemble.

It is imperative that we keep the latter always mind, for to be

correctly dressed the various parts of the whole must either match or har- monize. And dozens of shades of every colour make it possible to do bath, the while they also make a mismatch just as possible. The gradations between crie shade and the next may be so slight as to be subtle, but it may spell the difference botween success and failure.

Through the winter we have had to do with gloves of both fabric and kid, the former a trifle less expensive in their Arst cost and "really inclined to give more satisfactory wear. To the two types a third is added with the approuch of spring. Silk gloves seem comiortable 'solution of the summer glove problem, and while they are not, any more than the fabric glove, enough cheaper to make any very great finan cial difference, they are less confining to the bands, and cooler.

wrist and are clasped have a really fine snowing, this season. The wrist-fitted glove very often has a band of kid in a contrasting calour or a band of fabric as a finish, making this type most novel and really now, which means it will show on increased popularity, especially for sports and tailored wear.

Glover-even the cutfed and genulet stylos-are shorter than they used to Perhaps the cuffed glova is the But love styles have settled into leader, and the turndown the leader of ways that are pleasing, and have cuff models, but slip-on with a nose, The velvet collar has returned to become less ornate while they have wrist and gloves that fit closely at the the tailored topeust, and you may see retained, even gained, elegance. Their how effective it is on the tweed coat most prominent characteristic that has been patterned after the coat novelty in the use of fabrics, colours of royalty. And there are velvet and the application of trimmings; and cuffs in this instance to keep the collar interpreted

it's by virtue of this novelty that they company. The double breasted topcoat become a really critical part of the mode shares its popularity with the single It is amusingly easy to spoil the most breasted model, and the soft basket carefully thought out costume with the Weaves, covert twill, cheviots and wrong choice of handwear. homespun are runners-up for the Arst place how held by tweed. Silk conts are being shown and are a Zature possibility, when the last snow of the senson has come and gone; and robins return for the summer!

Models chosen for the fine paints of their originality appear upon this page. Navy and white in combination are not new blue embroidery on white fannel may not be new; bat bands and embroidery on the frack with bands "on the coat, both inside and out, with a band of banana coloured antin 'added, in an original presentation. The per chant for a trimmed lining in copied in the suit that uses the bordered fabric of the frock to line the cont Bordere rival all-over prints, and in this particular model lobster res on white harmonizes with the lobster re fabric of which the cout is made. A kick pleat surreptitiously widen the apparently narrow skirt.

Elaborations Of The Mode. Lage has made its position perman ent in the mode. Black lace over blond, flesh o coral autin; eeru lace over lesh colourful appliques and embroi deries on black; and lace in combination with other fabrics or as a trimming for the ano. adequate proet of tho wisdom of fashion. Chiffon and crepe, make beautiful durice frocks, lending! themselves to potal treatments, points, ticri, Rodels and flounces

with

Every member of the bobbed hair There isn't a doubt that many a fraternity has, at some time in her "charming head has been completely career, been beset with arguments concealed, even distigured, by the colle from relative or friend-against short of hair upon it. And there isn't a doubt hair, These arguments have driven that the fashion is, in general, rputh many a woman to letting her hair ful, the trend being in favour of the grow, even when to do so was against, simple bob, an argument. In favour of her own beat judgment. The chief retention. While, there are some indictment against the fashion teema women who cannot wear straight hair, to be the fact that it may prove only a there are many who could wear it with fad, and every woman that finds the more, becomingness than they wear fashion unbecoming and grows, her hair waves, if they did but know it.

In the sports costume of white fannelvacious charm, Crepe de chine and out becomes proof for the complainant. Parisian head is rarely curled...the doubtful origin of the velvet tie, that with ecat of lobster red, note the But the fashion of bobbed hair is not tradency being away from the "wave." fad, it is fact; and there is every

disappears, then reappears in such a If the matter of keeping the hair clever way. The banding on the pocket. ndication that there will be more waved is the main objection to shart is repeated an The Timing of the coat, -babbed heads this summer ihan there hair, one may try it unwaved and have aver, been. It is even prophesied stotre petting the offer with the aid- baru ini &.bordered fabric for a drons, which matches the tres Scarlet and that women to have been persuaded of a' not and hair-pins. But if a wave id be worn under a cost of plain colour, ta lot it: grow will be moved-by the

F memory of the comfort of short locks

la imperative, and the hair down, not finds a hat of the dress material im to have them cut again. For Paris, having it done, there is always the include the smart tie, the belt, the fur hold a marcel long enough to pay for perativo. High lights of this model whenco come our smartest fashion, permanent wave. At first this many koan, in still bobbing, and over there seem an expansive operation, but it fabric appears, and the small, almost border, above which a band of plain lo never a question of "Shall I bob?" costs less in the long run, than but of What bob?" Nearly everyone weekly marcel; it is there as long as

tailered, fur collar in a senson' when a. already bobbed, you see.

the hair is, and it is a joy to its owner.

fur at the neck in conspicuous by Its absence,

i

flat erepe are daytime fabrics, and flounced, seniloped, pleated and: trim- they fashion frocks that are tucked, med with tabs and ruching#==

rhinestones, crystals and satin beads. inboxate, making use of silver, gola There are embroideries, and they are

Pleats are as fine, as tucks; they are: inverted and appear at the sides; they and glorify the detalls of the inbot. make eapes and plastrons and panele;

place in the formal mode; colour runa Gold Jace and metal materials have a rlot and as a background, confirming our ballet in the stability of fashion, there is black and navy blue:*

For that

Embroidery may be said to be the leader in decorative effects, perkaps because of its versatility which makes. it the leading trimming of all fashion. Appliques begin where embroiderior leave off bruida, bĉada and ́tinsel appear on the more ornate offerings, and

hand-painting, erotonine and absurd cross-ward puzzle designs are a marked feature of what might be -termed extremò' novelties that really have no part in the ensemble of the conservatively well-groomed woman.

In leathers gluco and suede aro tled for first choice, many inclining to the Juxurious softnesa of the latter while others prefer the firmar wearing qualities of th: former. While black and white are.iples in colour, always," as well as the combination of the two, the range of..n and gray may well be called stap.s, too. Gray usually comes back as potent factor in spring fashions which aakes the gray runga important; and' brown has become a .. slapie Becond only in importance to blue, so the tan and brown rauge is wide. Bluo, green, purple and many uther colours appear as trimmings, but rarely for the whole glove.

Suede Anished fabric and silk follow the colour card of leather gloves, vary. ing only as fabries vary in "taking" colours. Practically the same trimming- treatments will be seen to these styles, And

there will be combinations of fubries, and ombre egosta. Oder will hardly go wrong it hit chalecðin either the cuff glove preferably of the turn down variety—or the wrist-fitted glove, with a sida venture into the slip-on types for a change.

(Left) Fashion Heturn To The Loose Wrist Strapless Slip-On (Right) Not the Glove Itself, But the Cu It Wears: Not The

With Tahoead: Things,

tion