1925-04-04 — Page 14

14

THE CHINA MAIL.

COATS OWE THEIR

BARBARA WINSLOW

OWE THEIR CHARM TO

CHARI

SATURDAY, APRIL

1925

DETAILS

PHOTOS

ے کے و تسمه سلامت ہے

BISCUIT ITS COLOR GROW SEDE". ANG FUR STAIN

GOLO 2

A SCARF CONT OF MOVELY

ZABAC FUP-BORDERED

There is a Consistent Severity of Line Throughout the Variety of Their Styling-Simplicity Combines With Luxury.

We are rapidly approaching--perhaps trady Fenched-whzzal. marty have might aptly be termed "new coat time." Early millinery models are the first pro phery of spring, hut a cunt of light weight fabric, fashioned in the spirit of a new mode and worn on a springs Hike ny, is the first real concession to change. It is the first garment in the new wardrobe and is sure to rouse thrill of unteipation, is is more than just a cot, it is symbol. We have soun the advance models,

made

. ready for Southern wear, for many a chilly winter duy but it has been "under glass," ns it were, arai literally behind the glass of shop windows, These new mådels; have roused anti- cipatory delights in the heart of every woman who finds it a pleasure to plan and buy the clothes she wenra, for ikey have pixmised inuch in the way of both beauty and charm.

The cont made, taken as a whole, with ne sub-divisions inte sports, tallared or dress models, is varied and it should prove khlisfactory. In a bewildering array of fine fabrles, rich trimmings and rare, new colours, it has a certain restrained elegance that is the finest type of simplicity. And fashions in general have reached a point where only the simple thing is acceptable, no matter what paths of elaboration may have been travelled to attain that sini- plicity. And this simplicity hus, more often than not, a youthful efferit seems to be the delight of the designers to find new, smart ways to this youth

|

|

its colouringue Imes of radio blue and black on an ivory grouril.

Quite as severe, but rather move un- asual, the Mandarin cont in a scarlet that is in keeping with its Oriental inspiration. It is cleverly flared and its enbroideries at wrist and throat are of gold in a black background, and a fold of white faille silk completes the Surk a coat might colour scheme. easily be called a utility vout, for there would be no limit to its uses. It would serve mie's purpose equally well, morn ing an afternoon.

Details Merely Serve Simplicity.

A cloth evat, this time of rep in a somewhat faney weave, recognizes the importance of the back and utilizes what is known as the, arrested panel- for once fashion submits to the law! Embroideries outline the panel and edge the sleeve and hem-the narrowing of the embroidered strip a concession to lederness. The collar is of wide ribbon in a matching shade and it ties at the side-an" excellent model for

väl or for town wear.

The cost of fabric trimmed with suede and a wide fur border belongs to the sports group, but its decorative details would make it eligible to the dress group. The fabric-biseuit itx shadeis very soft of Anish, and the line of brown suede on skirt and cuffs blends with it, not unly in colouring but in texture. The wide fur border halts to make way for the suede, a new little detall that proves our contention that the charm of the, ront mode is due to the little things of his design.

Again fur plays its part, this time against a background of figured fabric, the latter an importation. The design is gay providing a full measure of trimming in itself; -Straight lines seem imperative and the scarf accentuates them. Tesigned for resort wear, the hist model in the group is made of a white wool fabric embroidered in aprient und azure blue. Its lines are unusual and - the model features the porket panel, which gives one the im pression of a two-piece ensemble. Such in coat would complement the white

fulness.

The South Proves A Barometer. Every model ilesigned for the South. ern season has been of interest, and the fashions of the benches and inland resorts are au exevilom harometer, tell. ing us what to expect when summer moves North, There have been more of the lighter shudes, perhaps, than will be generally worn in the North, especially in our early and somewhat qucentric spring, but the mode is fundamentally a question of fabrics, fines and triminings, with colour matter of choice for the purpose in hand. If the party dieplays led you to pcostume, that summer is sure to bring, form the union that all conts would and lend to it a variety not only of cut, be of the brilliant or the pastel shades,

Kummer

it was, perhaps, untapal, for those die?! plays were planned for 2 setting.

From displays and try-outs and practical experiences the mode has crystallized, and we are finding it possible to choose our special coats. from fashions of accepted smartness, that have been worn by well-creased Women at the Southern resorts and the play places of Europe, Cont assort- ments amaza one with their comprehen- alve variety, for there are widely disfer, ent models in every type of coat- sports, strictly tailored, for afternoon or evening wear, And while this variety has to do with materials and the shados of colours, it has resulted from the clover application of details, of both line and trimming.

The assembled group may be used as brala on which to build an outline

but of colour.

will be readily seen that there is practically limit to the possibilities of contr. It was early predicted that the swanger type would replace the mannish model, but there seems to be an amicable adjustment, and a cons may be both mannish and swagger. Atten tion to detail of cut or of plecoration seems to have detracted in no way from the smart simplicity or the "general practicality of the coats themselves. There will bo many, novelties--that always happens-but they are for the woman of many coats, not the woman of one or two,

Low Flares Fur Borders- Simplicity.

Of just what does this much waunted

"Y AND

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT exquisite pieces of bow-knot jewellery are being offered to vary the mode. They feature pearls, rhinestones and emeralda and appear on the tailored suit, on frocks, on hats and slippers and may be either clasp or pendant on a necklace.

THAT the importance of the Jabot in spring

fashions cannot be over

estimated? It appears on frocks and tailored gowns and blouses, and lends at hoftening tough to many, an otherwise plain model. It varies in size quite as' widely as it varies in its uses.*

THAT the artificial flower, which is an accepted fashion fact, has moved from the shoulder of the evening gown to just about the place where a apel would. be? And it is worn at the base of the collar quite far back on the day- the eont.

One must make mention of what has

We have seen that use is being made detail consist? Differences of cut, of of panels, both back and front; and the been termed the "silhouette" coat, a mannish, tailored affair patterned, it trimmings of colour combinations, amabot dress fashion has headed the had, after the cont worn by recent all three may be found on a single coat world, but in the form of a wide royal visitor to this country, It may model. Two fabrica may be used, the rover. As Imported model makes no bo either single of doodle breasted. Has of the mode. It includes tailored, dress one for the cont itself and the other for of printed silk in a fabet effect that ying, tailorad collar and sot-in and sports models in a variety of collar and strevca; or the ensemble coat fulls all the way down the front and the sleevek. On may not omit a reference fabrics and colours that indiente the of one material over a semi-undercontank appears through slashen in the lie the velvet collar; matalled at times Verratility of fallion. The straightline of contrasting fabric and sometimes sleaves and as a border for the lining, by the velvet cuffed aleevd, Collait, model in cluster stripod flannel indi- if colour. And fabrics ars, as a rule, Some coats have vesta; some have balts | whoủ they are not tailored and fat, may cates the true severity that characterizes vory geft no to finish, and, there are and some have not; and tiers appear on be military or scarf, for thora ina rast both the sporte and the tailored coat many alks and anting and velvets the the skirts of some of the models. Many,king for the high collar. There are It has a marnish sleeve and collar; its latter in the jewel shades, the colcare of the newer coats show a Hare, but it: yokes and capes, as well. And far, an trimming la confited to buttons; it is as saft as the fabrics. Flannel is excep is so subtly Recpreplished that one accepted bummer trimming his same Housin, breasted. Much of its charm tionally, woll liked for sports wear and hardly conscious of it, and it detracts mar form, agents to prefer the homiline, may not be reproduced, since it lies in there are some few confn of Jerseys but little, if at all; "from slimpwe

leaving the collar to the fabric: "A

A COAT THAT NAYINITE TIME, PLAY TWO PARTS.

1t is

THAT there is a tendency away from the light hosiery that has been so long and so universally "vogue”? evidenced in the increased demand for the taupe, gun-metal and smoke shades of gray.

THAT your wardrobe must contain at least one costume ensemble suit, no' matter how many other ensembles it may boast, if it is to be reckoned com- plete 7 It may be a strictly tailored csemble or it may be more elaborate, us for afternoon uses, but it may not be omitted.

THAT the pocket handkerchief glove has appeared with the new spring offerings in fancy cuffed gloves? It han a tiny pocket high up on the kerchief in high gauntlet cuff and a colour is tucked therein.

The Newest, Smartest Fashion Details.

The use of tiny tucks, quilting and fagotting.

Collars of velvet an the newest sports coats.

The jabot rever on a version of the coat frock...!

The "hick" pleat in the front of the sports skirt..

The new high colours in between- Reason hits of felt.

The wider hemlina, Variously achieved.

The plastron, jabot, vestee, side frill. The one-piece gown that looks like an ensemble.

the

The V-neck. with revers squared V-neck.

or

When The Shoes Are A Solid; Colour

13

Variety May Be Supplied With Novelty Hose.

The suspender skirt worn with Lailored blouse.

That and scarf ensemble, brilliant of colour..

SMART FOOTWEAR

Complements the Ensemble ~

It is an admitted fact that the short skirt contres attention on the shoes and their accompanying hosiery.

Add to

this the fact that we are in the power of a fashion that is.obsessed with the ensemble idea and there is nothing left lo contradict the statement that foot- wear was never more important, if us important. Shoes must not only be smart and fit well, but they must play their very important part in the ensem ble, their only prompting the equally smart and well Atting hosiery that has *been provided for them.

One's first problem in to find a last that fits, for no matter how perfectly the shoe may harmonize with the frock or suit, it is a failure If it wrinkles or bulges. The average woman knows that good grooming demands a trim appearance, but not at the cost of com- fort, and the search is not ended until toe, vamp and heel all contribute their share to this comfort. If ono has a short vamp, it is ridiculous to attempt to wear a long vamp shoe; and if 'one's foot is long and alonder, a short vamp should never he attempted, even in the interests of a smaller appearing foot.

Two Colour Effects Are Smart, Not Only In Wack And White But

In The High Colours.

The Oxford, which has, for several seasons past, fallen into disrepute, i becoming a favourite because, bf the attention that has been bestowed upon it by bootmakers. This attention has resulted in many clever new models that may be laced or without facings, substituting elastic goring for the latter. Quite now in the model that has what is known as the gaiter top and uses two leathers, the one so applied that it gives all the appearance of a gaiter, even to the buttons. The aub- Ject of what honiary shall be worn with › the Oxford in sore to prove interesting. For hosiery is quite as important as footwear, of which it is an integral part There will be many coloured leathers ased, this coming season, and while this is imperative because of the demand for matching or harmonizing footwear, it will add one's problems of selection We have become accustomed to light hosiery, and there has been a decided attempt to make the pastel, Jowel and other eye-arresting shades popular ak Southern resorts, but one is a bit doubt ful as to their future..

one feels that there is more than "a possibility that shoes and stockings wit match quite as often as they harmonize..

There have been à vary great many And there is no excuse for an un-

sartoriaĽains committed in the intereste comfortable hed, in these days when

of this vogue for light, tones in stock- one may wear a Louis, baby Louis,

ings, for the fashion has possession of Spanish, Cuban military or dat heel

the entire fashion world, There i and be lo fashion-there is no excuso

tendency to the despor grays.: with- for either the wrong vamp or heel,

black, a vogue for gunmetal shoes with fashion or no. Designers are prodigal styles being shown. But, their use is matching hosiery, has been launched: canfined wholly to sports and daytime blonde shoes are popular and are best in their models, and ero is type for

wear, for they are not even distantly when the hoss worn with them are of every foot; as well as a fashion' for every occasion, and a fabric, colour and related to semi-formal ensambles. the same shade. Add to this the feet- style for every costume. This has been These mora substantial shoes have that the "rigid" ensemble is favoured, brought about by the rapid growth of jullitary heels, but they are by no means the costume ensemble Idea: that low, oven reaching, three inches in demands either matching or harmoniz height. There are practically no high

*choon being shown.

Which I stop in the right direc ing footwear, a

Fabrics seem to inchide many There seem to be less of the fancy tion for there should be variety familiar materials, but there is a ten-atrap pumps, the tailored idea coeting the short, plump woman should not be dency away from auéde in favour of this style of shoe and focussing atten- compelled to cut what heights tha

dough, theronlar some doubt as to lion on the angle strap pump for treat at her hemline. It seems to be the oner the reception of the iden, for suede lewear. This firah i, oftentimes, quite instants in which the average woman the most comfortable of the many effer broad, and may or may not wear an has boen afraid to express har pat inga Lisard akhr is used in many ornament or buckle. These shoes use zonality, everyane wearing the light ways, chiefly as a trimming, and patent. two leathers in combination and are shades regardless. It is a pity, for it lather is making a strong bid for extremely smart without being praate has done much to make ugly ines and favour Satins, brocades and cloth of The opera bump really an evening intensify many Mituations that should gold or silver are the choice for evening fashion, appears out the street in the be dealt with carefully. But no fashion. The trend toward abortil, things afternoon, and seems to be favourite per ist indefinitely, (fait is not renerally having sect on footwear, and there specially when be retained her love for becoming Just now there la mor are more models in the heavy, mannis Heat, coloured boolery,

7

than's List of changove