1925-03-07 — Page 14

THE CHINA MAIL.

CATURDAY, MARCHT

THATS-USEFUL and OTHERWISE

BARBARA

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT dimer frocks of filmy black" luco are being worn over alipu of flesh- finted silk, making a striking contrast, yet an ideal combination?

THAT leather, soft and supple - as silk, plays an increasingly important part in the sports mode?". Colourful' knicker suits, jackets and þuta uro made of li

THAT your newest frock or Lunir should boast cither a yoke, a plastron, a jabot or a vost, if it, is to be sidetly "a la mode?" Or it may use the more Lamillar detall of the start

THAT the smartest of the newest coots have calinrs of the fabric, even when, they are cuffed or banded with for? It is a new way to "unusuality and smartness for new ways are imperative,

THAT gray silk hostery in shades of taupe, emoke and battlöship———Em being worn with black footwear, mark- ing a trend away from the Roumingi endless array of light shades that we have come to expect?

THAT styles in gloves are becoming much simpler, inclining more and more to the tailorod type? The mannish. tailored costume is reaponsible for hoavy handsewn gloves in leather or wash kit.

TRAT practically all of the brilliant collong "that are going South on their vacation are printed! And they include linens, grenadines, voiles, crepes and English prints in a wide diversity of patterns.

POSES

Winter Anticipates, "Summer in the Recent Millinery Displays -The Peaked Crown Has Displaced the Square.

In the midst of the varied displays that the shops have to offer, the mid- Reason offerings that combine the possible modes of summer with the Anished modes of winter, one is hound to find much to interest und murigue, This is true whether one pins a vaca, tion. in the South or prefers the Northern winter, although one concen- trates, of epure, on the apparel bat best suits her plans and needs. Of all the many offerings. no, INSP group arouses the general interest, that millinery never fails to do, for it is a are, though oft repealed saying, That every woman has either just bought a hat, is buying one, or is about to do so. A colourful bit of straw or silk is our concession to the Southern mode, to our faith in a spring that is brund to came, to our insistegt craving Za change and variety in our wardrobe And one is tempted, in view of the many fashions that are being launched;

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been nur official opening since early fall, Uni gets the feeling that the Southern season in usedyte crystallize. the mode that will, uventually, be that of„spring. One has the satisfying assurance Lhat her well-loved velvet hat is not, ut alboj out of plitve, and she will, undoubtedly, ring to it until she fimis a mid-season hatto her liking Fur-trimmed hats and hats that are fabricated of fur and velvet, or metal-cloth are much in evi desee, and they are absolutely correct in the winter getting. Many of them reflect the tenitencies that the advance spring models advoente.

The point of outstanding interest in the hat mode is the crown. The high, square crown is out" su far sa Home designers are concerned and has been replaced first by the pointed crown, and, kter, by the helmet crpwn. Yet some of the foremost designers are showing absolutely new models that feature the high, square-top Crown. Perhaps we

le review a few of the general rales y compromise und say that it is no

hat should be observed in the selection of this bit of changeful_guyety. A hut may add so much or detracts much from one's appearance; it may utterly rgin an otherwise perfect costume; vr it may lift an ordinary costume from a slough of mediocrity! 1 gentle- woman is known by her shoes, her gloves and her hat, then the well- dressed woman may be identified by the same accessories, appearing com- mon place and ordinary, or smartly distinctive and Individual, in exactly the proportion that these attributes apply in her millinery.

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quite all one may ask of a hat this in, to go shopping in, to complement season of the year. A hat to travel

straw-trimmed. We see in it a modi- the costume suit--the model of silk, fication of the squared high crown, and it proves, in its modification, more generally becoming.

It features the side back trimming, and mukes use of. owers, the latter a well-filted mid- season trimming, for they prophesy spring and help us to remember that If Wiriter Comes spring huts are sure to follow,

longer imperative that the crown be square, and this is comforting, for many found it very unbecoming. The founda- tion of the millinery mode so far as the crown is concerned-in the high- peaked crown, crushed or dented in various ways.. With this crown goes a brim that is narrow súd either rolled all the way round or straight on ône Fido and rolled on the other.. As a matter of fact we are concerned, just now. with the shape of our hats rather than the fabric, since any fabric at all is permissible. One might mention, in passing, the fact that beaver hata are

A friendly little hat-the model of There Are Shapes For All Types. being introduced to replace felt, and orchid crepe with its nely pleated "It in. at the outset, obvious that the meeting with a measure of popularity, grown and brim, the former topped by small rosen. It has all the chic of same shupen--of crown and brim-ond Hats of any and every fabric-are simplicity, but the simplicity that is the same styles of trimming will not supple, in many cases collapsible, and not to be copied by the amateur; the brcome tail, short, slender, stout, full because womankind elects to stay simplicity that is, always, "hand-made" faced and thin-alike, While the bobbed, brims are short at the back; This model may South or stay North average women dock not select a mode! | widening at sides and front. Some and be correct in either place, which is for the model's sake, there are still brims droop a bit, and that is as it some women/who choose the hat-for should be, for everyone may not wear its own true beauty, or for its fitness rolled brim becomingly. But the roll to her costume needs-without_ussur- brim "the" brim, just at present. ance that it is "her" hat. And the miny

Beenuse one likes to look ahead, and not offer the excuse that she could not because there are some who would be and shape, size and colour, all three, ever in advance of the mode, a word of so she chose colour, or fabric, with her two about featured fabrica will not be Dostame in mind. There are so many amiss Laize seems to be the most hades of so many colours in each and popular straw and there are some that every possible shape that it only calls resemble moire, some that ape the elloman silks, marocain and plaided for a little persistence to find the hat that will seem made for its wenror.

hair Inizes. Celophane braids, Milan, No hat should be chosch for its full chip, bengal straw and always the face effect. Just as many people see!

colourful Felts-these strike the most our backs and get a skle view of us,

distinctive, note! Hats are being trim- as wo meet full face-yet-ning women Hard directly at the back, on top, off the out of ten wholly ignore this point. side and at the side back, and feathers, Full length and three-piece mirrors are fancies, ribbons and Jewelled, pins are the modern solution of the problem of mingled with the flowers that always Recing ourselves as others see us," sa bloom through all the millinery seasons. far as millinery is concerned, And both should he used in the business buying hat, for the latter must pre- sorve a sense of proportion to the entire figure. It will prove conclusively that the hat with the very brand brim should not be worn with the very short skirt, and will, at the same time prove other things just as important. We make everywhere during the winter too little use of the full-length mirror,

A smoothly rounded crown that shows a tendency to come to the anyway, it should be compulsory in every home in the interests of well-paint and a brim so abruptly upturned dressed womankind. And there are are the two characteristics of the rose- that it has almost the effect of a Teld other things to be considered the trimmed felt. The flower itself, appar length of the neck, the breadth, of the

ently undecided as to itsmont shoulders, one's height.

The full-figorod woman, short of neck advantageous position, compromises, and broad of shoulder shoukt nøyer

and appears at the side, well toward actect a hat of the "picture" typo, nor the top, but not so high that it could

be called top

mming. This parti yet a very small hat, hers is the medium hat, not too larga not yet loo small, cular model is particular for to many The shape of the face must be coils sloping grown and its hardly appar. it would prove unbecoming because of sidered, and a hat should, first of all uni brim. correctly frame the face and at the

Choose One From The Five. Typical of the conservative mid- season choice for the woman who stays home, we have Ave pictured models ons of straw and silk, one of silk und lowers and three of felt Really the proportion of felts runs about three to

BURONS.

same, time fit neatly in back and pro- Rather more friendly the felt that sant no ogly angles or linon, fram a' has a drooping brim, alightly widen "alde point of view. In general the than the average. The crown is ayarage woman is playing safe when terally awathed in crops that achieves she buys a small hat-picture hats are distinction from its ombre shading, and for. ccensions. And "there are the again roses bloom on felt, but are "off- obvious rules of tailored hat with aido" in what milliners terra pendant tailored things; evening hals for formal fashion. A hat of this sort would have evening wear; sports hats for sports many usea and would be rather more attire; and the garden or picture hat generally becoming than some of the cat this time of the year for her who is newest models. Ono feels that thổ

to vacation in a land of rammer. For fundamental reason for the variety that

a cottoral rule, the modium large hat Ja safer than the really broad-brimmed hals, but that is something one must ¡decido for, herself.

All Sorts Of Hats Right Now.” It, the satisfactory time of the year When one wears velvet, felt or batters plash; slik sating or felt-combined, Perhaps with straw, or flaunts a gay

ittle straw hat in the face of winter.. Designers are designing and the smart shops are selling, although there has

charneterizos millinery displays is the oddity of the hata themselves, There to no one type that is universally becoming, so there must be many types' A third felt 'ossays' tho' picture type, although it is not as large nå mang, of the hats of this class.The hat itself in its charm, for it is extremely STEOS ful of line, and the trimming of labria flowers accentuatos ite grace, working the fast; enough; but not too much that achieves individuality.

HIS CHANCE.

A progressive young man of Decatur Now aspires to become a head-waiter:

"In that job, I've the tip That a flask on the hip Makes a waiter a

sure Bradstreet

rator."

Rosa MS ANot Sm

SMALL

FINE FEATHER

CONTRIBUTE THEIR CHARM

THE IMPERATIVE: SCARF.

The acart is no longer a novelty-it is an accepted fashion fnot... One looks to her scarfs with quite the samin care that she looks to her hostery, for they. play quite as important a part in the imake-up of the ensemble. No costume seems complete theau days without a scarf, so one must have vivid ones for. sports and tailored sults; fur corta find them necessary; the afternoon frock coyets their amartness" and soft folds of net or lace or chiffon complement the evening gown," Fabrics rango from the sheerest of nets through the allks, brocades and ribbons to matèrials that simulato furs, and their decora tions are colourful and unusual.

The Orient makes a contribution gorgeous,de asthlm, the shape of Jaya acarfs, the brilliant silk. extremely decorative, or in Chines band- embroidered scarfs of Canton crepe, the embroideries done in natura) fower colours against a background of delicate pink, blue or gray. They may be had in all white, as well. Ostrich I used. and marabou, and there is an occasional use of fur as a trimming?

3)

Small Feathers In Vivid Colours. ....... Hako. Those Interesting Ear-

rings For Evening Wear.

HEARTLESS H.CL.

At the risk of seeming bromidie we impetus, reflecting its charm in feather Coral is coming in for its share of any that "Fine feathers make fine fans, even when the true Spanish Zah attention, and is te be had in beads of

ja fashions," although feathers have not.

of lace. Certainly the feather fans various sizes which make necklaces of varying lengths, earrings and bracelets.

always been feathers when it came to

more neeful than the fan of chiton, There are some places that make fine offects, rather has the term been Jace or gauze that is, if one carrica a unusual uses of stones in combination broadened to include the hundred and fan for use as wall as for beauty with onyx; lapis lazuli or jade; there" one little details that go by the name Whatever Its purpose, the evening arc Eastern designs, set with Imitation of costume accessories. Feathers there ensemble is not complete without a precious stones; there are adorable have been, but in limited quintities and

fan, whether it be the one that is replicas of the old-fashioned garnet put to limited uses the trimming for picturesquely conceived-for show-or jewellery that our grandmothers wore, hats, neck pieces, and, more recently, in

the more useful' "dance", fan The and the breast pin-glorified by experi fans. It seems strange, considering former is, as. a rule, a huge affair, mads ncéis coming back again.. Now it is

only the jewellery itself that their undoubted beauty, that someone, of several delicate, fleecy plumes; not did not make further use of them gorgeous in colouring and superb in novel and clever, but there are novel dering other fashion sentons, but it conception. The dange fan is also of and clever ways of wearing it, which has only been recently that designers

ostrich, a single plume, perhaps, or two add to its interest. The familar string have recognized that they were with a handle of tortoise or ivory. But of pearls takes on new interest when extremely adaptable as well as useful, there are other pretenders for honours it wears its loop at the back or depende However, we can truly say, that they in the "feather" line, and we have fans from a collar of the pearls in front." ure better late than nover come into

made of quille-turkey, perhaps of One la moved to prodiet a continuation Bat I'm certain the cat has a skin good

enough popularity, for fashion owes much to wing: feathers, of coque. And euch of the vogue for the pastel tlats än them, to their dainty grace, to their colours! All the jewel and rainbow pearls, in view of the prediction that To make me this winter an excellent colourful beauty. The designer of shades, the flower tones, hues of the pastel colours will be a feature of the garmants, the maker of accessories, the zoa, the sky and nature at its lovelicat, summer mode..

In earrings the circle or disk snemin shoe designer, the milliner; the jeweller

and new, odd shades that neither flower, - find them adaptable for their rainbow, level or mature can account most popular, perhaps because it is popularity of the bob. True enough, Some women are growing their hair out. for or explain. And if this is not newest. Those direles are made of Jet, various purposes, and we have, de a result, a real vogus for featherp

somclent, there are fans of parret inde, cornelian, cat steel or of jewels long, but only the women who have feathers, osprey and pheasant tails! and in the group one finds the gold found the fashion unbecoming

may not get away from the fine But what of the fine feathers of hoops that are familiar part of the

Italian peasant's costume, Jewelled feathers of fashion, however hard she

I love Little Pussy, her coat is s0 WAIT And if I don't hurt her she'll do me

harm:

One

whole hats being made of tiny feathe fashion that make novusp of feathers hatples are popular and appear on hata 1. may try, for without them the ensembl

theme.

THE NECKLINE CHANGES.

our costume jewellery Shadowing. Wo had many happy seasons that views the offerings that designers have qvery other vogue in Jewellery is the ensemble idea that matches necklace were dominated by the round and the presented for spring sad summer wear. and earrings and bracelet for afternoon bateau nock-line. One uses, the word the rural and the bateau neckline

baya given way to the square or the and avening wear, The popularity of unhappy" advisedly, for there ware Veneck, and both admit of trimmies, pearls-imitations, of course as

The milliner asss them at a fabric ý

and as a trimings-not, necessarily, confined to a plume, but fashioned into the Jewellery and other accessories and the swathed headdress, but it in a is a dull and Heless thing. Even when all sorts of "fancios" The dress rifles they are," indeed, but they are fashion fact that the headdress is no they strike note of contrast, It se

the triflen of perfection. Faibles and longer as fashionable. as

ated to be, harmonious contrast, and as a rule they designar uses them both for a fabric and a trimming, edging douncer and fads of fashion, hers to-day and gone for bobbed hair makes it unnecessary are chosen to emphasize the ensemble

and there is, so far, no lessening of the ruffles with them, making entire frocks to-morrow, they have an amazing hold of them, as well as coats. They trim on the fancy, glittering and dangling!

and sparkling from wrist, neck and evening shoes, scarfs, gloves, boudoir apparel and lingerie, and fashion antire cars, Precious stones, semi-precious neckpieces we once called them boas stonen, jede, onyx, crystal, lapis lazuli for wear both indoors and out. Butand coral, rhinestones and all the world. It is only quite recently that they have of "imitations," there is no limit to the found their way into the jewellery field; resources of the craftsman who malosa providing colourful pieces for evening wears the pictured model-moves, Woe, vividly coloured, feathers make the attractive loop earrings why not? We wear butterly wings for Jewels, and no Jewel colours are more lovely The vogue for artificial flowers has led very Freat, that one is tempted to term "really more who found this fashion Indeed, they demand tasm. There m no unbecoming than there were who clever little collars and enticing revars; to the use of feathers, both as a topidemic,

These two there, fa'', a generous- uss, cify the newaf material and the fronds of ostrich are diminution in the favour in which these found it suited to them. nood with alk, chiffon and ribbon fascinating stones are held. Their lines the round and the bates-pre-detall-sometimes a part of the collar Howers. Pictured we have, a bouton colours are beautiful, combining as they valled in all the smartcat models that and again a part of the revers, and niere made of ostrich flues worked over do both the strong and the pastel shades were to be bad in the ready-to-wear separate collar and neckpieces are to shops, and it in upon these ahaps that be had to laces and embroideries. tho flogor to bring out the valvety with the lustre of the stone Iturif effect. In spite of their delicacy, the that are the dual thing and the average wonin depands for her. There are so many designs and so many flowers achieved aro réally tailored in affect

LEAVENEMENTEN there are many women who prefer the eno could do with a garment cat either one is sure to find something become

unnatial to the usual, no matter how way, for to change the neckline was ing. A part of this welcome fashion. Amore familiar, use, and quite the

beautiful the usual may be. It cannot, quite impossible. Added to this tragody detall is the restos, the plastron and lovellent use OL

feather Ar way sure barreled fitate, and there the neckline was absolutely unrelley the frilly Jabot all three, an integral Fed, and gain one must halt that it part of the frock moderan the perte was trying to the average woman Be models taking on mare Zeminius mim CATORUL ha desp mist of palled that one with a Huguan Jabat,

and there deems.

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