1925-02-14 — Page 14

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TILE CHINA MAIL.

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 1925.

Touthward Ho!" avion

A CHREE

ADD ALDAD

BY BARBARA "MAINSLOW

BY JOEL

FEDER

Coincident With the Southern Holiday Season Come the Paris Openings-Advance Spring Notes of Interest.

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"The Daintier Fabrics Of Evening.

Either you are going south of you are not-it is curtainly no mutter for argu- Lace is another material that appears ment.

Through the day and again in the uven If you are to spend the vach- tion where summer reigns thwagh the ing, and is, always, a material of ekarm. winter monthe you are interested in There is a vigtinuation of the pro whally new wardrobe that will fit nounced, vogue for this fabric that has Baturally into backgrom? that is lastel uver through severnl fashion made up of colour and warmth of the seasons, and shows little sign of blue sky; the bluer sen; goblen sands † disinishing. They are embroidering and the deep green of the trees. If | live with beads,, thus bringing out the you are to stay where winter rules and I pattern cffectively, and_they_are, com- sports call for winter fabrics and winter | lining, it eleverly, with chifon. The Kpparel is autthi for a time, then yours | latter is yet another material to find a

is the interest of anticipation that is, place in both the afternoon and the

indeed, "the butter part of pleasure." Time was the pioneer in the flying kame, amf it will not be long before budding trees will signal spring and the Summer months' will come upuer. All

this apart from the undeniable fact that whatever new fashion his to, affer proves of interest, and fashion his, for

a time, finished with cold weather styles,

and has plunged, heurt and soul, into

the charming accupation that has for

its tbols the light weight fabrics, the gay colours and the effective lines and Mrimmings of the summer mode. Andh Parin, having successfully brought her own season at Biarritz to a che, makes an analysis of the mode, in her pre- season showings, which influence the mode we designate as "Palm Beach- though there are other benches just s pulm

very general way. There Is Charm In The New Fabrics.

Fabric displaya'are sure to interest everyone who is intérested in the inode the woman who is assembling a ward- robe; the woman who makes her own tracks, and the woman who does neither, but wishes to be always the utmost in fashion. These displays are at their best, right now, for they are practically complete, and home dressmaker

will "Do her, spring shopping early:" so far as materials are concerned, even though she puts her purchases away for yet. months to come. It is an undeniable fact that while we are wearing winter fubrics, weavers are busy with the stuffs al summer, and vice veran And there is a wider choice of patterns and of colours when a.season's muberials first go on the market.

We are interested in fabrics as they are related to every type of fruck and wrap-in sports, daytime, afternoon and evening wear. And the offerings should Antinfy, for they are the utmost in variety, in weave, in colour. For the spring suit, that you will buy early That you may feel assurance that spring

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evening mode; it is, like lace. frequently

| bend embroidered; and it has joined the Frank, of the fuhries that are used in, the pópular ensemble, the very smartest, newest thing being the match- ing frock and wrap for evening-it should ibd popularity in the South where warmth in a wrap is not at all imperative, Such an ensemble is a “limuusing" affair.

נת שנה

Summer and the South presuppose white, for white is the summer colour and the South und Hummer are synonymous. AB the loveliest of the fibrier are being shown in white, but there are

ensemble contantes being shown that feature white in hacs, shoes, houderyy gloveg und parasols, with ne relieving ote of colour. Even the trimmings and the furs “gummer" furs-are white. But white can be | monotonous, and it can be unbecoming

two very good reasons for the sup- position that the many strong colours that are being shown, and that have alrently met with sueruss abroad, with find favour in the eyes of Miludy. Many of these colours will be used in eom- bination with white, and there is no doubt the fact that such combinai Luns are decidedly and effectively stun- ing. Black and white is never missing from the picture, but a return to papularity of navy and midnight blue is prophesied, and black and white will have a rival in blue and white,

Yellow, in the very definite shades, seems to be featured, and the shades of orchid, fuchsia, even mugentu and the parples that have more than a sugges- tion of red. There is a new colour.com- bination prophesied certain shadea of yellow with certain shades of violet- and it is charming, when the colours are correctly blended. Trimmings will be important but then, they usually Embroideries and appliques for daytime; beads, embroideries and appli- | ques for evening; ostrich, marabou and

are.

is coming, there will be the staplex= | fur, and of them all, the new furs the twills and reps, one may even add the most original. They are showing the oftomangand there will be a very fur bandings in various widths, and lightweight chiffon broadcloth and added to the usual fura we now have kasha cloth, the Intter already giving | conty-dyed concy-in black, brown, promise of becoming a vogue... Ii-the pearl gray and white, and Iapin far-in kasha cloth-is being shown in white blue, white and fawn. Which makes and the high colours for Palm Beach

imporativo the slatement that along wear, and in what is known as “natural” with the high colours thero will be the already a proven surecss in Paris. One pastel shades, so becoming to many. should, perhaps, include fannel and the Some even prophesy that the pastels novelty weaves in the daytime and will be more popular than the strong tailored fabrics, for there is really a shades, very slight dividing line between sports and tailored things, although they ran to widely divergent ends.

Stressing The New Colours And Fabrics.

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been.

TURA FOR "OUTHEPLY

THE SCARFIS GRADUALLY

GPOWING UP!

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the seart are of yellow crepe de chine, blue the skirt and shawl are of a novelty fabric that resembles, plush, though much lighter of weight. Skirt und blouse are linked together by the matching buttons and the belt, returned again to fashion, is very wide and very

popular, this Spring, than it has ever Another ensemble keeps to the three quarters length coat, lining the coat with the fabric of which the dress is made and banding the dress with the coat fabric. Note the short skirt and the slender lines that are, by the way, returning to favour, if they have ever smart. been really out. White plush and Nife! The Southern-bound wardrobe will gruen crepe de chine are the fabrics, '¡ contain bathing apparel, and and the landscape embroiderfès make pictured model of a beach ensemble is the combination even more smartly dis- new, smart and practical. It is made tiretive, un argument in favour of of a printed silk in the tiger shades, the colour-this costume. The scar? in cape lined with one of the tones, and growing up, if the sports ensemble that the suit itself 'untrimmed except for malers use of the idea is any imlication, the "flowers" of the fabric, One may for the extreme width and the deep safely prophesy an interesting summer fringes give it almost the appearance season, for nover did advance models of a shawl. The overblouse, fold about more truly Justify "Great Expecta- the bottom of the skirt and fining of tions."

THEY CALL IT “DEGRADE.”

this

That is, they do in France, whence, ; touches not only ribbong and fabrics but we suspect, it originated, as so many the artificial flowers that are fashion. of the clover, likable fashions du But It is exquisite in evening frocks of soft, wo know it as the "ombre" touch, and

diaphanous chiffon, especially in the have come to recognize it as a friend, soft pinks that shade to the depth of an when we meet it in the shops, and to

American beauty rase; the yellows and realize both ita appeal and ità different-

greens. Use of this ombre shading is перв Kone were to define it, the

mado in an afternoon frock of bloo definition would surely call it a gradus-

that begins with a shade, akin to tion of a single colour from its palest turquoise and grades into royal. A to its deepest shade, and that definililon

smart little model for evening wear made use of velvet in modium wide bands that carried out the idea of the woven fabric, and the shades ranged cream to a deep orango. It makes beautiful "petal frocks

A group of Southern apparel is" pictured, and each individent model streames either fabric, colour or both One of the nowost conts-tailored or sports in type, uses a novelty fabric that features the much disenasod plaid will, at once, place it in fashion, of fashion, 16 is convincingly straight although there are the usual exceptions of line and yet it schloves width by anwhich start the shados fer enough away-

Fashion

CHOOSING ONE'S HOSIERY.

Some fashion critic-vlowing "the situation from heul to foot--has made the statement that the woman with long hair or black stockings in a relic of a bygano nga, so far as up-to-date-ness iz concerned. While to a certain extent this may be true, it is equally true that there are some women' who would lose much of their smartness if they out their hair and others who would 'do better to wear the black hosiery that the critis taboos. Fashion to the con- trary-the woman who is short and plump and the woman with thick ankles should never wear anything but black, If she is to remain inconspicumus and at the sume time make, the, most of what height sha hus. Just as an 'uns kumpt bob is a tragedy of the short hair made, so is the woman of extra weight that cuts her height at the hem of her skirt with a fashionable beigo hosiery that bolangs, by right, to the „slender woman.

The exact shade of light coloured hosiery changes quite as frequently as the weather. One day it is nude; another it is "belge; again "it's gun-, metal. The latter is an interesting and satisfactory shade, for it pusscosen fashion internet and may solve the *problem. for the atout woman who rê- fuses to wear black hosiery when all the world is wearing, something else......... It makes no very decided contrust, and dacy not so deßnitely eat long lines. There are a few rules that one cas bear in mind in the selection of her hosiery, rules that will make for beauty in "Costurning, if followed. The shades of brown shoes-not grays. The grays and the lighter numsees of brown with black shoes. Gray with gray and not a bad ident match shoes and heslery," but if they do not match, the stockings should be lighter than the shock. Light hose with oxfarts are ugly and result in an unhecoming ankle me. Wool hose with spurts shoes, never with. sandals or pumps; it is quite possible. to keep one's ankles warm with under- bose of wool when the shoe "Itself -demands silk hosiery,

No matter what your evening frock may be as to colour,or, fabric, slippers, of gold or silver kid are quite the thing. They comes in all heights of heels for every taste-as they should.

THE TUNIC WAYS OF

BLOUSES

It would seem that the designers of our fashions are hitting on styles that show a decided tendency to remain a part of the mode, once they have been inaugurated. Examples of this are the straight line silhouette; the ensemble suit; and the tunic, either by itself or us a part of a dress, And all three are so eminently satisfactory that we can but hope that these arbiters of our fashion fate will not deem it necessary to start a new war-we have not, as yut, wholly recovered from the war against the cloche--and hurl A variety of styles onto the marketin endeavour to displace either one of the three. For. the time being they seem aufe enbugh-one suspects that there

To Lend Variety To The Famillar Ensemble Sult Or Furnish The Better Part Of A. Dren.

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was a conspiracy against the straight lines that are so generally becoming, but it has resulted so far in novary general definite change, and is not likely to.

One does not have to be of an over- suspicious nature to be fairly certain of the idea that any style that in, funda- montally, economical, does not meet. with the approval of the makers of

For the smart, informal type of day time frock there are the printed crepen and silks that always return, with the summer, but are, this pre-season time, the loveliest that they have ever been. Polka dots have come back into the printed allk fel, and will be sure to

clothes This in business, of course, receive a hearty welcome, for they are inverted pleat of a contrasting colour, from the palest tones so that it be away always amart In general both the securely buttoned down. Far is the practical for daytime uses. While

and it may be that the costumo patterns and the coloum are bold, and Isgiza trimming for such a coar, bur" "opinions" may ülfer on the subject, it It one hesitates to purchaas a whole the notable thing, in its harmony ls generally most effective in chiffon, Lingerie finds it an inspiration and ensemble and the tante are to be note- frock of such a silk or crope, she may with the fabric. Our old friend alpaca although very beautiful crapes, antins soms of the most luxurious offerings of worthy exceptions that prove the rule. find it both satisfactory and effective | stages an effective return in cape and oven velvets employ the colour the season were made in potal fashion. For both are practical and economical, in combination with a plainer, more costume ensemble that stresses while schemo. It is, at times, achieved by the fabric Georgette, which is the sombre fabric. There are, too, printed"An,unusually interesting costume, this, the use of separate piecos of material sensible chiffoni. It makes Picturs" the walle; they are smart, and becom chiffone and Georgottes, but they bring with its tucked yoke; ita tucked flouncer in the various shades, but is lovelleat nightrobes and chemises, as well as ing. The woman who buys a really fine me into the afternoon class of daytime | "alenderizod, by a fucked hard at the when one tona fedes into another' as it stop-ins, and is lovellest in the lavender, ensemble suit and then possesses; her- Apparel, and even hold over into even. | side and its new long sleeves with dong can do in a single piece of fabric, and pink and yellow shades. And boudoir Ing Plaide, must be mentioned, oven can in gauntlet fashion. The cape only in one fabric

apparel, always in the lookout for same-self of stanke or two, in colours and atressed, for they will not only be good. made of the tacking, which is not, es, We" have had ombre ribbons for Laing new, has adopted it for its most fabrics that harmonise with the soft, is in the sports things that summer brings ona may think, real tucking, but a several months, and they hays been luxurious modéia, i frequently using reasonably sure of a satisfactory/day- forth, but they are being shown in novelty, weave that gives the impres used waith differentyson and charmi 36 lambra chirom sin

iffon or Gsorgsties over a more slks, crepes and Georgettes, in colours zion. It la perfect examph off traumatismelor d

Dict is an Nojamaal striking as black "and lacoana zadju (6) mosemble,whichshaitokba el Nomare Wine)

tunic were rat becoming to her, even more becoming than any other fashion except the one-piece frock of straight unbroken lines. And what adds to the undoubted economy of the fashion of the tunic is the fact that it is quite possible to make these blousce at home for it is comparatively simple task when one considers the great beauty of the fabric mode.

It may be that all blouses are not

the .cout or the coat sweater in bọth the cost and the sweater fleld. There are tailored dresses of materials that tend to the mapnish type, and they often consist of skirt, and tunic, the latter uncompromisingly straight ar Bured a bit. But it is as a part of the ensemble that they a. a most popular, or when they are worn with a separate skirt, the latter circular, perhaps; plented, or plain and flat in back with

tunics, but the tuck-in is an anomaly plenta arross the front. The ombre note these days, and when an overblouse has crept into the tunic mode and one runches below the hips, it surely has will find it a welcome and smart change.. tunic tendencies. At all the recent from either the plain fabrics, the prints" Paris openinga tunics occupied the

or the more gorgeous metallic effect. sttention of the foremost designers, The Chinese indvence is bound to appearing as a part of the newest, appear, for the gorgeous silken apparel models. Added to that, all Paris is of this people includes a form of tunic, weating the tunic, which argues well and as a result we have the tunic lit for its popularity over hera.

up at the sides. Chinese fashion, and reuson for this is not that we ape the it proves even more effective when the Parisian at all costa, but that we are fabric has something Oriental about it."

The

very willing to follow her lend when it is something we want to do. A would be expected, the newest models of the tonie have many innovations, some that will prove welcome and others that will not, but in the main they are very attractive. The innovations take the form of a flat bodice part; basque effects, circular effects, a tendency to fit, so to speak, but the alimi, straight over blouse-helted or not as is most becoming remains, and it is this type that will be mont generally worn.

The tunic motif is so popular that" it appears in practienily every fabric, and is just as popular in the aporta modo,as in the daytime mode, replacing

The length of the tunic may vary-- but the longer it is, the taller its wearer

appears-and the slenderer, Since

skirts "are short.It may come so very near to the bottom of the skirt that the skirt itself is little more than a line' beneath it. Necklinea are square ar painted rather than round or bateau. and there will, undoubtedly, be a return to the shorter sleeve a 8 mmer approaches, for the long sleeve is by no menna u warm weither fashion,

DID YOU KNOW

THAT shoes are looking to their heels, and have, for the time, resurrect- ed the fail of coloured heels? Red is. Very smart, likewise light coloured hools on dark shoes and they match the hat or its trimming.

THAT "Peter Pan”~~returned again to delight the youngsters-is responsi- ble for blouses of flannel or slik that laco down the front with promin ribbon? They apo tho Jorkin that Peter

work.

THAT the watch has forsaken the wrist and in worn on bit of embroider ed ribbon, which is, in turn, worn at the throat They call it the "corsage" watch and it is most effectivo when SQUATC.

THAT the muff, may ily becoming a part of the winter costume angemblo, la correct when it is aquari or melon shaped? The latter is the preferred style, but whatever its shape it must woar a flower, for style."

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THAT the so-called, promenade. pajaman" "la" gaining in popularity as a substitute for the dressing gown and Is bping worn on informal occasions I Whether it will eventually appear in "public, a France, is a matter for *conjecture.

TH}'}, shoes to be correct...must harmonize with the costume ensemble? And the Oxford, so long in the back. ground, because of strapped shoes and pumpa, la voguet

THAT there are hints of the bandi craft of our native Indians in many of the newest fashious? Theire la wa art 27pe, that drews, vividly on the Imagina the

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