1925-01-31 — Page 5

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SATURDAY, JANUARY 31, 1925.

?

THE CHINA MAIL.

SUMMER INVADES THE WINTER MONTHS

PECT FOR THE TH-CORRECT

THE SOUTH

ہے جو سینے میں

ASTEDIQNT SHAD

FOR WEA AN

THE SOUTHY

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT black and white in combine tion are coming in for special attonita with the foremost designers? And t markings of the leopard are carried o in printed fabrics, even when the coloc are not true to life?

TUAT in the very nowest Paris show ngs the tendency to a flare at the heli line is quite overshadowed by familiar straight line silhouet although they predict the final triumpl of the widened skirt-it's a matter,

incntia?

THAT the round am), bateau ned; lines are being replaced by square. pointed neeks? And the long, tigh sleeve of winter gives way to the sho sleeve and the leoveless dress in Featured models for Palm Beach wear

THAT it now very smart to we a cinemat, on a rainy day? And it wi be bright of colour; adhere to th modish straightline silhouette; have strapped collar and strapped, sleover, and prove a comfort as well as a smaak fashion!

THAT Päris has brought out a eleve little undercoat for wear with the onsemble suit that may prove too light of weight for very cold days? It raade of tweed and lined with fannal warm, yet pleasingly hight of weight

THAT u most amusing silver, elephant stands out in sparkling relief against the moire background of the newest handbag? The bag is lined with leather und the latter is a contrasting, rather than matching colour.

807

Velvet Gradually Gives

Way to Satin and the Lighter Weight Fabrics The Cloche' "Persists As An

Influence.

Becember tolled the knell of the velvet at both for Southern arid Northern wear, That it would be out of place in any group of Southern wear will go unquestioned; but its position in the Northern millinery fed is i Jumalt -of-reusony mate subtle, rensen that have tile to do with climate, since ire and snow pre-supprise heavy fabrics and fars. It is the result of a certain boredom that always exists just alter the holidays are over, a boredom that relates primarily to one's clothes and. results in a demand for something to brighten the dull. sumberness of the stuif our winter frocks and couts are made of. Apart from fabrics, the funtamental of the Southern mode is colour, and colour in just what-in yeeded tok the touch of gainty and different- mess that is considered imperative to the successful midwinter costume in the North. The fur cost; the fur-trimmed Post the ensemble suit; all three are touched to new heauty by the acquisi tion of one of the smart little hats that have been designed, primarily, for weat in the sunny Southland, Not, the traws, just at first, though there niny the combinations of straw and fabra with the latter prevailing, or there may 3 tripmings of straw. The chang from the velvet to the all straw hat is gradical one.

** Fabrics Are Light Of Weight.

Just at the present time there in emphasis on the setin hat; on the hat of faille; on felt and velours-since some and the desired brightness in these more wintry fabrics-and on the bat for evening wear. One, might almast say that satin is "stock" in-between season material, and it surely answers the purpose admirably. Aprofos dr the felts and velours-the former are never out of fashion at any time of the year, and the welf dressed woman keeps one, at least, in her wardrobe always. The velour hat is

rather of the street or the sporta type, unt nne hardly expects to find it a part of the afternoon mode.

There is a radical change in the shape of the new hats as compared with the favourite fashians of the fall season. whers, the high, square, Directoire crown was so generally featured. Crowns are high, to be sure, but they are no longer quare, far from it. The very newest moxiels, as yet really only displays, show high crowns and trimmings built up to achieve an appearance of height; the merest suggestions of a brim; at the back, and a painted crown of some, sort. It does not take any very great amount of reasoning to find the reason for this, as skirts remain short, the silhouette is returning to its original slenderness and the large hat would be Bathing it not ridiculous in the ensem ble. Then, too, the short haired woman finds the small, clone shape the one best suites to her purpose, a part of her newly acquired comfort

www.

or for. There is a new crown-called i the "envelope" being show, and it reminds une somewhat of the old- fitshionad stocking cap with its. wissel finishing the elongated top that folds over like an envelope. Sometimes a. small bow, is used in place of the tassel, and performs the duty of a seal.

ง

THE IN-BETWEE SEASONY HAT OF FRILLE, SILK

ball fashion. If you still hesitate about Wearing your skirts fourteen' inches from the ground, and keep to the slim line silhouette, you may indulge in a hat that is not so small as the usual models. Such a bat, pictured, makes a graceful frame for the face and carries an air of tington. It is tailed in its type, y

e enough to do duty Haber elaborate costume.

with

Indicating the whimsicality of crowns, the little hat of narrow grosgrain ribbon with brim in lower effect would fit into any picture anywhere, North or South. fitting where summer reigns, prophetic. It breathes a note of summer, quite where summer is yet monthe away. It,

The Ever Changing.

ACCESSORY

It may seem a broad statement, bus it is, undoubtedly, a true one, to my that hardly a day passes that some new accessory.in not introduced to the wait- ing feminine world, and vogbes-for

(

Christmas brought out the most interesting army of "kal-sticks" ever seen, and they were smaller than ever of vill curves in after the manner of really a "one woman" type. The spread goda and is set on a short, club-like too features the rolling brim, which is, | Pearls, for scaris, for béits, fór ticklek stick of wood, ivory, amber and the just now, the most popular fashion in spring up over tight. At this particular well as real coral, jade and onyx. Song

many imitations. of precious stones as; brime.

reason of the year, with Christmas a of the imitations, as for instance cor thing of the past, the interest in

bakelile, can be very lovely in combing accessories is at its height, and there stab as well as handle. The omament

tion with black or blue, forming tips an are many yery logical reasons to be tion of umbrella handles has become found for such a situation. The gift something of an art, and many thing giving' season makes a wide selection have been pressed into service. Wild lovely, likewise many things grotesque. imperative, and both designers and beasts und birds "genus unknown" craftomer focus on that one particular faces-human and otherwise; fruits and period for many months. It is the mid-

every conceivable motif have, bani? scason time; social activities are in full

adopted, with the result that the

a chance Christmas would bring may swing, and the dainty bit that there was

umbrella is an exceedingly smart noter in the costume ensemble. now be purchased, the purchaser profit-vogue of the tabe" dress are fast Beits-pushed out entirely by the ing, meanwhile, by the variety that the becoming a necessary aid to amartness holiday season has brought It is

Many of the very newest models excellent time to select the handbag designed for Palm Beach wear-mak the bit of costume jewellery; new hand-use of them, and they range in width wear, or any of the dozen and one things that are classed an accessories."

For the Active. SPORTSWOMAN

It is quite true that mkiwinter is the most active time in sportswear, la' spite of the seeming strangeness of the statement. It is the time of the year when the outdoor aparts of the North are at their height those particular sporia calling for a certain type of Apparel; the Southern holiday season is at its height, forecasting the active summer months in the Northern climes, and the woman who inclines.to the tailored and sparta type of clothes is busy renewing and smartening her wardrobe from the advanco. Hints that the shops are giving. So the real sportswoman, who plays for the zest of the game, has an interesting array. from which to choose, and she can attire practically anything she pleases amart, brilliant, comfortable, practi- Cal. The modes and the moods of the fall fashions have had no small influence' on the sporta mode, lesa, perhaps on the garments that the participant in the game may wear than in the appareling at the onlooker.

-What the sportswoman wears de- pends, of course, entirely on where she is playing, for the rough and ready apparel of the woman who skates, sklis or toboggana would be quite out of question for the woman golfing or play- ing tennis beneath the Southern aun It is a difference in fundamentais--of fabric, of lines, though not of colour, for colour is always a characteristic of out-of-door apparel, no matter where that out-of-doors may ba. The differ- ence in fabrics is a difference in weight, principally, and, in a slight degree, in texture. For the North the tweede, the velveta, the corduroys, the flannels and all the heavier wools. For the South the silks, the lighter flannels, the more open woollen weaves, and, of course, the linens and crashes that make the exquisitely cat and tailored riding things. Bright colours for both, though there may be a difference in intensity to it in with the setting.

Conservative Models A Wise Choice.

Unless one is buying a hat for a very brief wearing, it is wise to buy cum- servatively, choosing the model that may be counted on to tide you over into the season of straws. Five such models are pictured, all five quite as now as the newest, and each one with some- thing of individuality to recommend it. and may he had in the charming bright The black felt is excellent as a type, and equally charming sof: shades that fashion sponsors. Its crown may or may not have been influenced by the cloche, but one suspects It was, though the determinedly flared brim would deny It The trimming of satin ribbon, strictly tailored as to type, lends a touch qf, amartrious to the mudel, and the manipulation of the ribbon is decidedly now, aping, as it does, the cocarde.. One hat, at least, of this sort should be in and bathing apparel that is unable, for every wardrobe-Southern bound or Northern-stay-at-home.

There are, in general, two outfits that the active sportswoman can claim na her own excepting always, the riding

the outdoor costume in the North. It, is quite possible, if one wiskes variety, to. And many different garsients that have the same colour scheme, so that they can be interchanged and different costumes assembled from them, each in

Already The Lure Of The South Fossenses The Smart Displays.Of Frocks, Hats And Sports Outāts.

moat consideration la the roomy comfort the nature of an ensemble. The fare that is as imperative if one is to enjoy beauty apod not be sacrificed to the her activities, and since smartness and characteristic; the result is satirlactofy,

It is not, however, a question of what's newest, but of what's smartest; of what has been accepted by fashion and so developed into a vogue. Of the artificial pearl we have heard much, and we are destined to hear yet more, if the present hour trand is any indica tion. No longer is the single strand of white pearls suficient one's costume. jewellery box holde many strands in as many colours--pink, shagreen, gold, miarron, gunmetal, salmon, hyacinth or Domergue blue; necklaces that combina penrie with artificial stones, and clever combinations of white or tinted pearls and metal-the latter in links both plain

from a half inch to six inches-the fatter the crushable kind, The var Harrow belt seems to be most popular| on the newest modela, but one can never tell. This means that one must have à care in selection, especially, If the felt boasts a buckle, as so many of them, especially the imported ones, do. There will be some very smart sports things with leather trimmings that match the leather belt. Having exhausted every- thing else, handkerchiefs have turned to black and white, and it is no longer considered u "mourning" combination.

and ornamental. And there are brace THE ENSEMBLE AND lets and earrings to match, i one wishes, quite the newest evening

fashion being the matching set of. jewels, which means, to Mrs. Average Woman, matching sets of artificia! stones.

It has become the smart thing to carry an evening bdg at a part of the formal ensemble gostaufto and Paris has sent us the very loveliest of her inimitable bags, and vanities for this

LINGERIE.

The ensamble idea has invaded the realms of lingerie and combined the pajama suit with a cape or coat of s some dark material that harmonices

it' a contume.

purpose. Some are of moire silk in the with it. Ita lining matches the fabrie pastel shades or white, allk embroidered of which the pajamas are made, making in small steel beads; a fiat, vanity of silk moire, is closely studded with coloured stones; there are envelope hags of tiny metal beads in exquisite colours and lovely designs, and there are flat envelopes of brocade gold, silver or in brilliant Colborn,, And the very newest and most exquisite of the bing designed for afterlod are the ones of Petit-Point mounted on French gift frames and antin lined. The handwork is delicately beautiful, the colourings are gorgeous and the patterns are delightful in the more tailored type of bag the all red pr the black and red envelope purse is the einart note of the hour.

The turban-made of metal cloth or ribbon, frequently combined with lace. or silken ribbons, has 'n place in the midwinter mode, It is an afternoon and a furcoat fashion, as well as proving the connecting link between daytime hats and the strictly evening hat. The latter makes use of laces-especially those of, the metal variety, tlestos, nete and tulles, and the lighter variety of trimmings. Black and blonde are tho prevalling celours, and there is mach use of silver and gold. But apart from evening modes in millinery, it is colour, that makes the displays arresting, for It is surprising the information one it is colour that marks them as new and

nothing else. The one outfit consists of can pick up, in a day's roung of the typical of the Southern season inficence,

short skirt and Knickers, with coat, shopa, cancerning the much-discussed And a word or two concerning the now, tune at a time when black and white is

The black and white model-oppor-sweater, tunic overblouse, or whatever cloche. One will say "But the clocha has passed out of the picture, it is prove amiss, cines the success of the

smart colour combination may not staging its periodical came-back-ís

form of wrap the wearer may prefer, dendi" Another, will insist that the

the other, outfit is the straight Kaloker cloche" sells well, and sheas many

costume ensemble so often depends, on-brim; as was the felt. The crown is

addicted to the sound crown and rolling suit-artless and the utmost in con- the clever combination of different

venience and comfort. The latter allows

THE NECESSARY FLOWER, demands for it--demands, that sho fille. A third will.suy-"No, there are no real

colours or different shades of one'colour. and is held in space by the white it is no longer a fad, as it was several made of ribbon laid to almulate folds far more freedom than the former, but cloches, but the cloche persists as an

Widle the fundamental idea of the embroideries. The brim is of antin and

Nature may well ĺbok to her laurels, influence." Whichever of the last two:

ensamblo is correlation of parts, this is

seasons ago, and she does not have to for the fowers that bloom in the shops the ona season of the year when the in place by an ornament. Such a hat the trimming is a feather. "fancy" held

wear it in order to be in the mode. It are proving rivals well worth considera- opinions you thay choose to accept, it is small, bright hat hus lis, uses for street may, encouragea, somewhat jaded ward- answear it well, but there is a que mode of dress resulting in an expendil is the sensible out-of-door fashion, if tion. And thelp yalgo to the general certain that the first is hardly tracer sports wear, and it cua, usually, be robe and at the same time not prove tion, and a very logical one, about its ture of artistic effort that is in turn, ane does not talk about," even refer to linked to the rest of the costume in too radicala departure from the ilmila gefferal becomingss. The slender revulting in their creased value to setting. There always danger that Knickers, but the stout woman does not, buttonhole Benguet of other yesra has tions that are put upon one by her woman and the girl may look well ir dress-so does the circle, zun The nor does the incided-to-be-plump. been replaced by the boutonniere of a woman, and there are many such. For single flower, and the smart coat or them the shortened skirt, and all the suit is barely complete without th artifices that land a pleksing appearance dainty accessory. For a while the

There is no doubt that the tonic and holds wore on Pellerin octa ads fronde quite of slenderness.· the owerhle distaccheren Hut change bugerative event

gardania was vogue, and every button

some clever way. If one wears navy, preferring its dependability to the noto

a fashion.that, is dead, and certain. It is that many of the very smartest models bear a surprising rosérablance to the clever little shape that has set all the colours, then she can vary her blue hats ridiculous, and for the average woman

of differentneas provided by other the between-season hat will prova, world of millinery designers inventing with one of lacquer rod or of the new things to take its place.

there is real Iticonsistency. In the all Hats Wear Amusing, Topknots.

shade of brown known as Airedale: straw hat word with fur coat Kid Given the high, pointed crown and combino with certain shades of purple,fatter Biraw-hate-should be en in There are certain shades of green, that goloshes if one to adilicted to the the arrow brim that is sometimes--but they must be the right shades, alive fuence, not a reality, at this season of irregular of line dnit sometimes dis appears altogether and add to leapers it is most untiunt god effective, and

green combines with powder blue and the year. ille trimming that site amusingly stop. emerald strikes an odd note with briar, brim if a delightful example of the part of the sports ensemble; and there just age of the many, blossoms, that The little bat of Zafie with the upfangenged fashionable sports apparel, in the lower in one's buttonhole, and the peak and you have the very lowest

for the long, bolted tanke is an integral the gardenin in the lunst fashionable fancy-it might almost be called a fuß. known as ebeba is smartened by a hat but not be out of place. It has a rather

cityssathéraum, dppealingly eat in or beaver brown. The shade of brown mid-season model that will Brighten, tendency to match the separate row in the store garden, And the es very generally. Is it featured-of fashion. Sometimes the trimming on popular bilek combines with certain of French blod or af gold and the

artificiality is beading the list at these little hate forms the connecting tones of brown, tah-bark specially good, link between the winter that is and the It may be a tie & Zacing, a bit of lining

oranlam and the rose summer that would be, for it may be visible now and then that Haks the Hat

the orchid, the carnation, the red the press time, closely followed by pom-pon of fur or a bow knot of velvet to the frock or suit or coat.

resembles melon, and persista in different sectional crown that somewhat recalling the cloches and small, round- crowned hat is bound to do, whether the cloche had anything to do with it or not. Again a feather fancy, "offside, foot

garment when it i potuit to desired result. start with so that they have the

the sweater to the scarf, she hat or cap and the gloves garments and acces tunte ides and it is possible to indech Sweaters adopt the

sories that make up the better part of

used most generously on frocks, especi ally those designed, for evening wear.

individuality, and blossoms made f But the flowers for millifery, use hold

ther of mica, of shell, vie for their place in the môté by shoor

popularity with the more usual repro- ductions in velvet and silk. The even ing frock has tried out artificial flowers as a trimming and fept, then good, so it procceds to make erons zee of them. They make no áttéõipt to keep to the colours of nature, even when they

lavishly, adding, more often than not, ap to the form, and thake use o

at the corsage but that is not the uspal generous touch of black applied to loayes or flower petals. They are worn

the shoulder or the knee. thing: they are smartest when worn at

to

popularity of navy blee; the retention Paris prophesies a rotzm

of the costume mumble; the bassing it The Frening Frock Boonmos 'flowers as a trimming, for they are use of colour.

Winery no longer has first claim to of the Directoire mode; and a liberal -Only Then It Is Supplement

The Correct Acce