1925-01-17 — Page 11

SATURDAY, JANUARY 17, 1925.

THE CHINA MAIL.

FASHION WELCOMES THE SOCIAL

BY GARBARA

#VIIYSLOW

A Sumptuous Sophistication Only Serves To Increase The Seeming Simplicity Of The Formal Mode Rich Fabrics

and Furs Contribute.

When one takes into consideration the fact that the tailored and ong-time mode are both exceedingly vivasile, and compares this fact with the well- known truth that the formal mode permit of an even wider elaboration than any other style of dregs, it argues well for the success of the models that will be sern throughout the coming „social “Henson, or rather during the season that has already arrived. Frocks for dinner; for the dance; for the strictly, formal affair that demands the utmost of the mode; each and every one of the new offerings keep a fine balance between the newnessca of the strictly up-to-date fashions and the riceties of a tondition that is centuries. ald. Few of the most flattering adjec tives can be omitted from any descrip. tion of the season's originations brilliant, flattering, gorgeous, beauti. ful, fascinating as they are bound to be. The Foundation Of The Mode. The wise woman is, first of all, fitted to her girdle, balt or corset, and when that so-important detail has been arranged to her satisfaction and that of her modiste, the frock is considered. The use of elastle, specially prepared rubber and silk covered rubber has marked a distinct advance in corsetry, both in comfort and appearance. It is row possible to obtain a belt or girdle that confines even the fuller figure the while it is the ultimate in comfort, and' such a belt or girdle is beautiful enough to be worn outside, if one were sul ciently tempted. Of Icuse bands of moire ribbon the figure is petite, of satin with clastic inserts, if the figure in full; these girdles permit fuo- slom of movement, yet preserve absolutely the necessary lines.

Evening fabrics include the most delicate, withal the most gorgeous and 'splendid, of all the materials. We are living in the day of the limousine, when oze arrives at one's destination via the comfort and speed of the up-to-date motor, that is really an abbreviated reception hall of itself. Evening apparel is worn more than it used to be, and evening frocks are seen not only at the theatre, the, opera and in the smart supper clubs that socisty frequents, but at the less formal gatherings where music is supplied by the radio. And the funnels and whols and less fragile materinis ure put aside with a real sigh of relief for the incen, brocades, chiffons, velvets and suting that are reminiscent of the days of Louis the Fourteenth, when graceful, dignified women danced the stately minuet. But the frocks of to-day,pren when materials are the same, embody the spirit of the modern dance, as it is right they should.

Brocade ta the most pronounced of the fabric fashions of the days of the minuet; face reminds us of the dances of Spain; satin recalls the Directotra mode; velvet was a part of the Moyen Ago fashions; and the softer chiffons and Georgettes would be consistent with the draperies of the clasale Grocks. Added to these we have talle, the fabric of the ballot, and so, by virtue of ita Bource, a dance-frock fabric, The dance frock really stands first in importance, for low social functions omit the dance, and many are given wholly to it. Colours are quite decided, white being the acknowledgod lendar, followed closely by gold and silver, brocades, Certain shades of pink and red; the Javender and orchid tones, and black are a part of the colour scheme; but the latest and newest, is the ombre frock in shades of an accepted colour

Trimmings Keep Pace With Fabrics

Bandings; studdinge of pearls or

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made.

AHOJD*

ں میں سے اسلام ترسیم

OLD GOLO STALINE

POIDERED NET

ENING MAPAA ET AND MORE

A

that designers have found for fur. Paris mudel, made of rutites of velvet set betwech wide bands of fær given rise to the quistion: “Is it a fur wrap trimmed with velvet, or a velvet wrap bunded with for?" Linings are quita as gorgouns us fabrics, and so import

ostrich and marabou; fure; jewelled ornaments and fine laces; these are the accepted trimmings-all éxotic, all quite in keeping with the luxury of the fabric At times the frock, of a mystifying simplicity-the simplicity of the mode is generally mystifying has by other decoration than a single arti- ficial fluwer, placed either at the shoulder or the Waist, the model dependant a part do they play that at times ing for its individuufity on the subtlety of its lines and the richness of its fabric. Included in the ectegory of lave astrimining we have not and tulle, all three fabrics, nu well as trim- mings.

But the lines! Ahi There's the secret: And the secret, the lines remain to all but the clever designers, Charming pa many instances, the straight line, beltless frock has prover itself, there is grace, flattery and smartness in the newer silhouėtie that boasts a most decided fare. But it is not worn becomingly by all, so it should be studied in its relations to one's figure. It has a tight hipline, and in many instances the flare does not. begin until the knee is reached. then- If the material is soft, the straight line is preserved. There is no diminution of the popularity of the bouffant model so chamingly illustrated by the model of feta and tulle and approximated by the frack of lace with wide. satin sash:" But the bouffant model belongs to the slender woman or girl and anyone else must close her eyes to its alluring lines or appear ridiculous.

The real bouffant froek, with its tight bodive; fichu arrangement at week; and cleverly-placed velvet bow is truly a period froek, although its popularity is making it a frock of many periods, One ventures to hope that the record of its successes will never require the full stop! It is sleeveless, of course, for all evening frocks are so, but the fichu breaks the abrupt ending of the shouldor line. The arrangement of tulle and taffeta is a bit unusual and correspondingly effective, Note the shirring and the cording where the skirt joins the bodice-old-fashioned, it is The near-bouffant frock gets its real originality from its underslip, for the dress itself is really the slip, while its foundation is elaborated, even uchlev. ing a ruffe of two. Many of the smartest of the bouffant or near- bouffant frocks are made of tulla or chiffon in the ombre colourings. They are delightful to Hot.

A New Note In The Ensemble. We have much of the Spanish In our fushions of to-day; we constantly hear pictured, model we have the Spanish of the ensemble costume; and in one shawl effect as a part of the ensemble evening costume. The material of the frock and a accompanying show is voivet brocade; and while the shawl is. the usual type, the frock will bear inspection. It has a fitted bodice that is low on one hip, achieving a slanting line; the skirt itself in short, narrow and straight of line: but an overdrape,' fuftness and an uneven hemline, very applied in some atle fashion gives long at the sides. A frock of old gold maline combines with embroidered net. that has been dyed to match. The urderclip is straight-of-line-and-the- only trimming is the low girdle of narrow ribbons in the pastel shades.

Evening wrapa sharp the glory of the evening mode, gontributing a full share to its beauty. When not of furthey employ the richest velvets, brocades, heavy molte silk and lames, and are! generously trimmed with fur or ostrich. Auça, Coats and capes share honours; now the one now the other the appar ent endor" There are many use notes tabs sat down concerning the detalia of both men and trim

the wrap is reversible, and may be worn either side out. Especially is this so with fur wraps, velvet lined.

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Occasionally a wrap settles its claim to distinction by leaving all kinds of trimmings to other models, depending on its beauty of fabric for its charm.

Such a wrap is pictured, its materials velvet and moire; its fines straight, in spite of the fullness' above the deep velvet band; its reverse of the silken fabric. Such a wrap will answer many purposes with the requisite smartness or wall as the really imperútive luxury

THE FORMAL.

ACCESSORY

A FINE ART

Given a marvellously beautiful even-1 woman exactscomfort from her xhber ing frock, in texture, in colour, in line the utmost in perfection. Needed-all the necessary costume details that will make it a perfect costume. Half of the task has beca satisfactorily accomplish ed; the hardest half of the task remains to be finished; for the success of the whole dependa apon the parts, no matter how small they may be. A chain is only as strong as its 'weakest link. Let us, then, consider the links, that they may be not only strong. As' the links of a chain should be, but take on added strength from their suitability, their individuality and their originality. formal accessory-its correct choosing All accessories are, problems, but the

is a fine art.

so one is quite likely to find medium toes, and poind bath long and short vanips; and band Spanish, with now and then a Lotila heel, Straps are still good, but there a tendency away from them; there are some gore effects and thère are opera pumpa. -Evening "honiery is extremely sheer, many of them have the narrow French clock, the more delicate the better. It is really necessary to place the choice of font- wear and the hosiery complementing it recond in importance only to the frock itself it is, in a way, a part of the frock

Given, then, the evening frock, there must be slippers and hosiery; a fan; a head-dress for the hair and the usual whole. For slippers and hosiery certain bits of costume jewellery that finish the rules are laid down, but to the individual falls the delicate task of choosing the type that complements her particular frock. Style montors say that the materials, shall be silver or gold brocade; bronze kid and satin; but adda the enlightening note that the slippers of satin and brocade are by far the most popular. When satin is the choice it may match the gown, or brown would be permissible. If the dress in black and the slippers black satin, beauty domande the jewelled or coloured heel; ateel, or fancy buckles. Along with embroideries of crystal, strand or cut the metal brocades go cloth of gold or

silver.

The lasts are varied, for the modern

But onu's attantion is oftentimes caught first by the fan one carries, at the way one's hair is done" and udorned. It is hard to say where the have been times when greatest stress should be laid. There A fon has doubled the value; even redeemed, an of an effectively coloured fan with a otherwise ordinary costume. The value

black evening, frock of the effectiveness of a black fan with a coloured frock cannot be overestimated-the wrong fun can spell failure to the ensemble. choice; or it may be more than one A single plume of ostrich, may be the plume. Certain types of frocks demand the lace or gauze fan, the latter very new when acquin-studded. And be careful of the sticks, for they take on the importance of a piece of costume jewellery, ospecially when they are. stadded with precious or semi-precious stones.

The bandeng for the hair may be simple or gorgeous, as taste and type decree, but it is almost an imperative

part of the evening costume. If one's hair is bobbed, and, the occasion is formal, the bundenu lands the necessary touch of formality that does not exist without it.

newest Some of the bandeaux have combs at either end, and keep stray locks in order, even while they beautify. Sometimes they are of flowers; again of metal and stones; yet again just a bit of metal ribbon swathed about the head. Type is a dominant factor in the decision, Pearls are the most important of the many costume jewellery effects, and prove, iu the long run, the most satisfactory, for they lend a touch of elegance, even when they are, as is most usual, these days, artificial. But with their many tints, the choosing is, of course, a matter of care and consideration,

THE UNCHANGEABLE

LEOPARD.

SEASON

Someone has taken liberties with the old anying that "The leopard cannot change his spots," and added a whimsi cal "Except us he changes from one spot to another." Certain it is, so far as fashion is concerned, that there in no reason for wishing the leopard to change his spots-they are quke lovely enough as they are, but it equally certain that wholly without the leopard's knowledge bla beautiful spotted skin has been removed to places far from his daily haunts, and been made to play a leading part in the garment modes of the day. Entire coats of leopard-variously, trimmed with beaver, nutria, fox and Bable--are a prominent fashion of the hour, and f- so great is the domand for this strik ingly beautiful polt that many another member of the cat tribe, with markings|| akin to the leopard, has sacrificed his life to the vogue.

There are several reasons for the popularity of loopard fur-the spots make it extremely decorative; its short hair makes it particularly adaptable to tha slender line silhouette; and its tawny colouring fits beautifully into the 'new winter colour scheme, which has avory great deal of brown in it Separate wraps, and the coats of the enaamble costume suit make a generous use of it, employing it for cuffs,/collars, bandings, bindings, Tuxedo facings, and the flat, spiral founce effects that re- lieve the straightness, but do not detract from the slenderness of the silhouette. Following the vogue for leopard fur, we have hats of'ieopard spotted silk and ventees, collars, cuffs and scarfa of nauft, cotton fabric that simulates far most effectively.

DID YOU KNOW:

THAT the square-orowned hat has a' rival in the pointed, dented crown, and trimming are forsaking the sides, front, back and edges for the top

THAT sequins are re-appearing, a natural comeback after many. BORSODE "of bead embroiderius1. They are used

on gowns of chiffon texture and on fans..

THAT the vague of imitation flowers increases with every passing day?" (A single blossom nosties in the fur of the -cost-collar on the shoulder or at the waistline of the evening rock; arīdz occasionally, on the new little muff.

THAT "the_newest postunda aljpSIK. ombre fringed glove silky. They are desktoed for wear with: tunic blouses Fandiñay, be hid in the shades of brown, gray" green, blue, red pink ör purple,

THAT, the tune blouse.

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THE NOTION-AL GIFT.

We are sometimes inelined, especially, whon the gift is amall, to sacrifice. practicality to beauty. If one person could have all the dimes and quarters that are spent for needless, foolish things at Christmas, that person would be rated among the wealthy folk of the land, and while many of the little things that aro" usoless ́fill a' certain' need-which really places them auto- ́matically in the useful class-wany and "their way into the waste basket before Christmas day is over. Why not kome useful thing-it it's only a spool of thread or a card of buttons-instond of Tawuro-to-be-thrown-away choice? Hera

then, are a few suggestions.

The average woman has manding to do, and she is always "running out! just when she needs it most, of the thing she needs the most. For her a nent little holly.box may hold a dozen spools of darning cotton-hosiory these days demands so many different colours; a smaller box could contain a dozen wee spoola of silk or thread for the gloves of many colours; or a third box light conceal cards of lingerie tape or ribbon and a' bodkin to run them through the garments. 11 Milady wears blue selection of blue silk and thread, a dozen spools, or it may be she wears brown," or black; no one always has the colour, the kind and the number she needs. And there are buttons, of the sort the housewife is always noeding, why not a box of peurt buttons in assorted lizes?

A pair of shoe-trees, plain or fancy, will carry the Christmas spirit farther into the coming your than an elaborate Christmas card; so will a single hand- korchlef; or even a homely, but sensible glass or dish towell A pair of wash- cloths, blue-edged, with a cake of goup; a half-dozen of the preferred hair-nets they're making them specially fog bobbed hair, these days; an assortment of tapes and elastics; there, are worlds of things-homely, perhaps, but sensible, hind one can do'a good bit of Christmas shopping at the notion coun- ter. And the wrapping may be dairity,: and the message on the card a drolf line that emphasizes the practical pur- pose of the offering,

Seen Here and There ☆ in the Shops t

For the Christmas dinker table or for the Christmas gift there is a selec- tion of decorative, linens that have been. imported from Russia "and Ukrania. They ате unique in weave and

embroidery and exceedingly colourful, their patterns geometric in design or embodying the religion and folklore of Table the people who create then runners, luncheon cloths, dailies and towels are to be had in this ëxceedingly decorative;linen.

sets, telephone covers, ciga stte boxes, book ends, many oddities of hand-tooled Florentine leather. And so it is with every typu of interior.

From the Far East come fantastic ornamental brass figures of the dancers that take part in the religioun festivals of Burma. They are studded with brilliants and make most unusual orns- ments for the "certain places that always exist. Another oddity la' a. Paris dends us boxes for our own use Burmese lacquer: marriage box, black and the possible gift to her who has with decorations of green and scarlet, and lined with scarlet. They have two are big; and their shapes are varied everything. They are little and they

trays and are used at marriage feasts round, square, oval, octagonal, torpedo

ter food and drink. Either of these or coffer shaped. They are painted and unusual bits would make an excellent decorated with French prints, and have

Christmas gift for the woman who, had been made with the fine sense of detail everything. After all, she is the and the imaginative beauty that are

hardest person to check from one's list.. characteristic of French products. For Also from the Far East the Chiness. the boudoir gloves, laces, handker-white and blue jardiniere, lavishly chiefs, ribbons, powder, or for writing mutorials or cigarettes they would prove convenient and decorative.

A shop that has to do with the fine' accessories of the home offers cushions in many shapes and sizes and of many uses. They are oblong, round and oval; as well as square; they may be used in the living room; the formal reception room or the boudoir, and their fabrics are taffeta, brocade, fancy ribbone, sateens and chintz. The same shop offers lamp shades of pleated, glazed chints in many patterns and colours.

A shop that specializes in gifts only, makes o apociality of authentic acces sorios for the living room. If it ba Amerkan — early American priam candlesticks; firescreens in appropriate designs; banjo clocks with painted panels; Colonial and-irons; appropriate ten china; o pie-crust table. If it be Italian-pottery vasca of ivory console arrangements, water jars and juge; a decorative head of Italian marble; desk

decorated with Oriental Agures; the four-fold Japanese screens with fascinating designs embroidered in gold thread against & black background; and all sorts of clever incense burners that are quaintly bizarre,is the manner of thinga Oriental,

And in yet another gift shop-given. up to the "little things of life"-there are many small remembrances of the. "little-more-than-a-card-little-less-than- u-gift" sort. These remembrances in- clude individual salt and pepper sets; laundry Hats; book covers; book marks of leather; all kinds of useful brushes; Jelly labels and caps; shopping lists and address books; the list is long, varied, interesting, and each, little "thought" comes attractively boxed and ready to start on its journey of Christmas cheer and remembrance. And in this, same group, there are many things that gre suitable for a roal gift, when it is not to be claborate, and without exception the forin that in old.. idea takes, in refreshingly new. RX