1925-01-03 — Page 7

SATURDAY, JANUARY 3, 1925.

THE CHINA MAIL.

ADVENTURING WITH FASHION

BY BARBARA

A CLEVER

DESIGNER

KAP/E

ی کورد

PHOTOS

JOEL

DIFFERENT MODEL MAKES CASE" OF RIBBON

THE TUNNIE FINDS INTEREST ZNG HEW

PRIZORED:

POC

Designers Refuse To Be Limited To Things ended with a formal sort of ten. The to any but the slender women who have

Usual and Seek Things Unusual, Instead

-It Is A Prophetic Mode.

Fashion is restless, and her rest. jesstresstukes shajeja her hold 'adven- tars into unknown regions, and like ay adventures she disduins the limit- tons of the accepted fashion fart of the Sason. And the mode may be likene Ta slumbering volcans that seems to be settled for a time yet is sure, at moment least expected, to break into un appalling activity, Such a condition

things must neceptable to the woman who would be individual in her

uming, for it assures the touches of differentness-om even the frock of prescribed lines-that contribute the This is all nude desired alividuality. possible by the latitude of the funds- mentals of the mode-the many gor- gebus fubrica; the wide range of trim. mings; the unusual shades of usuni colours and their effective combinations; and the many influences that are chang ing the silhouette. The latter has not Dewn so varied for many scusops, and the general tendency to breadth of hom is spesially welcome to the slender woman, who wears the slim line silhouette with graceful enge, but longs for change and variety.

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no fear of horizontal lines; but, effec- tively different for her who may wear it. The wide belt is a detail that may not be overbaked, for it is gaining a string, though probably transitory, the fancy of the smart hold on designers.

VELVET

GPAID AND

THEY DWELL IN TOYLAND,

toyland, you know.

The youngster is no longer content, FUR FORMA with an express cart ar a dull that opens TRIUMVIRATE and shuts its eyes-for Christmas.

of embroidery, this time, to match the tabs of the narrow scarf arrangement that is pulled through the straps on the waist. This use of the scart is new, and a French designer uses it on a plaided dress, and the strap is on the pocket. Clever? Note the dressy touch riven by the wide frills and the insert of lace at the neck. There is more than the usual amount of elabora proving more than usually satisfactory.tion, yet it does not detract from the You will notice that the wide belt appears on the model pictured, but it is general effect of Eareful tailoring.

The tailored frock if coming in for a dout of attention, and the results ure

Incidentally peaking

collar and knotted satin tie: add "a jauntiness that is the inevitable resuit of any detail that savours of the sailor's jamper.

"One can hardly say that the ribbon- trimmed frock has a satin foundation since ane's proof is wholly lacking, Details Achieve Differentness.

its The very different frock owen unless one calls the yoke 'top and the individuality, more often than not, to

sleeves evidence. Wholly unusual, this trimming details, many of them inspir- ed by intuences-notably the Directoire frock, with its lines of novelty ribuon at work in the fashion world. Braid, running round and round; its side trill buttons; fura and embroideries are used

of lace; its buttons; and its wide bell of perforated leather. A trying frock in original ways, and there are fabric

with combinations-plaids

plain materials, for instance--that contribute largely to the mode A group of French originations, recently displayed; were proof of the fact that u change in the silhouette is bound to be followed by many new ideas in the application of " trimmings, the greater part of them welcome because of their individuality. Embroideries were used on panels ever plain fabric or beneath panels of plain material; to carry out the colour scheme of the waist when the skirt was f another shade or eclour, or vice versa; irregularly on the hemline of a satin tuhle dress that was sleeveless, but boasted a very high stock collar: for a wide panel front, extending from neck to hemline and, in bands on the wide circular floupee that began at the hipline, and for a border that ran all the way around a plain coat" frock of wool. A satin afternoon frock had no trimming, at all, but an ingeniously cut runie that became a flounce; another had panels of filet lose, with a pocket of luce on one side, and a third bordered its sloping founce with black and white ostrich.

The One-Piece Frock Is Popular. The vogue of the ensemble costume suit and the tunic blouse has increased, rather than diminished the popularity of the one-pirce dress, for the long suit-cout may be worn over it and the tunic is frequently mistaken for a frock, even when it is not a part of the frock

A very new model designed, appir itself. It contributes more to the

ently for winter resort wear, had a general effect of good grooming thun shoulder cape extending well below the any other one garment, so it is not waistline, and a tiered skirt that made strange that fashion, when adventuring. I the frock appear, from the back, like a should take the one-piece dress along series of capes, and a crepe du shine The results are eminently satisfactory origination had a pleated Roaner applied every week adding interesting details in serpentine fashion from hips to hem, to the group already assembled. Whe matched by a double just of the pleated ther it be the tailored frock, the semi-fabric. There was a sanh, quite wide, dress or the dress affair, it must boar howed at the side, its emis handed with the stamp of differentness to be accept fur. Lepe, tabs, appliques and many unusual treatments of the fabric of the gown were noted, and two shades of one colour of the same fabric were used

seums Ostrich effectively.

ta be increasing in popularity, appearing earlier and earlier in the day. It makes an effective trimming, and is a welcome change, from fur, though not lovelier, by any means,

able, and must be arting in either line, trimming treatmenTabre or colour,

The most noticeable deviation from the usual, the expects," the accepted is the silhouette widened at the hemline. Its influence has been asiduous but unmistakable, the real cause being the fact thot designers were becoming practically unablo to think up now, intrating Clever New Details, treatments of the tubular silhouette, The flye pictured models have, ouch and fashion is, fundamentally, change. and every one of them, some touch of But any change in the silhouette, individuality that distinguishes them. especially one that has proven generally There is a subtle something about the acceptable which, by the way, the straight line crepe frock that makes the Aaring line is not had to be made mother of pearl question markingu gradually, and a very great deal of Jurly appropriate It is the manipula- educational work had to be done. So tion of the fabric, that runs, panel-like, that, it is only very recently that the of the hem. Ite differentness emphasized wide hemline has definitely taken shape by the fur band that one might reaspi And become an assured fashion fartably expect to run all the way round For those who can wear it, it is taking the hem, but it surprises, instead, with precedence over the straightline its bravity. The band of fur, at the allhouette."

neckline gives the impression of a monk's collar, and the sleeves give a tailored effect by their length. Fur band and ornament are the effective detalls.

It is achieved by the clever use of pleats; by flounces ingeniously applied, and by godets, all three so subtly intro duced that one is hardly aware of thoat. There are, of course, the usual, glaring exceptions when a skirt has on vomis. Pakible fiared hemline, and that is all there-in-about it. 1. Even the tune has adopted the fare, and a most unusual and convincing-model of a tailored-frock recently brought to America from a famous Paris atoller has slim, straight under-skirt, a flared tunio; long alpeyes and a high collar. If the means to the end is manipulated cleverly enough even the medium stout woman can wear the wider, hemline,, but if the workmanship is crude, it is quité im-

FURNITURE

Unusual, indeed, the home that does not need a single chair, or table or cozy group of furniture to complete or improve its furnishments. Unusual perhaps, but certainly not lucky, for there is always joy k'a new posscasión, always pleasure in the rearranging of the room to the best advantage of both the old and the new. Many a room has been transformed from stiff formality to homey livableness by the addition, and proper placing of a table or a chair. And since the gift to the house is grow- ing in popularity, it behooves us, for a bit, to consider what the shops "are offering in incidental pieces of furniture. The range of their use--and their values-is wide; one may buy with economy any useful things, or one may sa small fortune single piece of foreign workmanship,

Someone has applied the adjective "wandering" to the small table that will At equally well any vacant space in the house. They contribute to our comfort laziness when they sit and our handily, by an easy chair, u duvenport, Their or the sewing rocking chair. unez ure varied-for booki and u read- Ing lamp; for the smoking things of the man of the house; for the imple- ments of the needlewoman; or, when all of these are taken care of, for the bowl that holds the flowers we find 'necessary to the buying of living, These tables need not match, indeed they are much nicer if they do not, but inject a note of variety-and of colour

on i

into the room. We know tho tip tables, the guto-leg tables and the butterfly tables of our great grand- mother's day, but we are not a familiar, with the colourful French, Spanish and Italian tables, and the charming little pieces from the Orient. If a table is to serve us at ten; hold the lamp by which the work or the reading is done; and in odd moments be decorative, it must be not too much the one thing or the other, that it may be at home anywhere.

There may be corner in the home that needs a Windsor chair by the fre place, maybe and Windsor chairs have They're doing all sorts of things with a happy faculty of fitting into almost the elastic tunic, alitting it up the aides any decorative scheme. They find uses flaring it; trimming it with roflex and fr the breakfast or living-room make In the one' particular model there is a excellent desk chairs; and are quite at suggestion of are, accentuated by home in the average bedroom, And the openings along the side seams. A they are such comfortable effairs with somewhat irregular embroidery of braid their bowled backs and specially shaped and beads outlines the neck and touches arma. Then there are the so-called the blouse itself with: bazuty Velvet fireside chairs, the tofuy upholstered; and fur seem to belong, the one to the inviting-to-ease type that is at home. other, but, when braid is added to, tha in Ilving room library or bedroom. combination, there is differentnessThe Bome of them are accompanied by model of mole and velvet would not be matching foot-stools, the combination amks of morning and could easily be fatal to even the most active person. the correct choice for a day in town that For the rooms that needs a bit of color

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to redeem it rom mediocrity, there are decorated lacquer, telephone stands,

many distinctive and useful pieces. ay pieces upholstered in glazed chintz

And then-England sends us fine old that have the theuriest sort of patterns.

mahogany pieces, of Chippendale und And there are, of course, the

Sheraton; of Queen Anne, Jacobean, formal chairs.

Hoppelwhite. France sends up rustic China contributes her riches for those fartiture of Bruton workmanship; who may buy quite regardless of pricu, French period furniture; fine lacquer and included in her offerings there are work, Italy sends us carved monastery" consoles, cup-bourds, bookcases and chair of the seventeenth tables. Lacquer and teakwood are her Tuscan tables; Lombardy prie-dious. "pecialtics, and the latter fashions All the world of fine furniture makers settees, tabourets and screens as well as contribute to the supply from which we chairs and tables. A "next" of teak-may nke a choice, and a gift of wood tea-tables is one suggestion; a incidental furniture, thoughtfully hand-carved "conversation chair" an chosen for the home it is to occupy, wilf other; and there are smoking stands of find a sincere welcome.

“ ነ

The Chair, Or The

Hool That

century;

What earthly use would an express cart be in these days of trucks and auto- mobiles, scooters and kiddie coasters? And the nursery probably houses n family of dulls that would have sent the little girl of a century ago into ruptures of delight. But the modern boy and the modern girl-be with his electric railroad train; his toy motor car, his set of structural steel; she with her perfectly equipped' dall's house, her doll luggage, her store that bakes and all the paraphernalia of miniature housekeeping-what shall we find for their Christings that is new?,

Toymakers labour the whole year through to answer the all-important question of "What tays for Christmus?" Ary every year it would seem that the ultimate has been reached in ingenious implements of play. Yet another year produces things just as ingenious, just un intriguing, just as wonderful. And this year is proving no exception." It's a curious psychological fast that the small Miss who, is bored to death with her doll family will go into raptures over a character doll or a caricature doll that is ugly and inartistic, but lovable, for all of that! An interesting group of stuffed dolls includes a nurse of the "Mammy" type-u baby and little brother and sister, the children equip iped with voices. They're not beautiful, but they're droll, and they're a wonders ful success. Psychology accounts for many queer things."

Toyland will prove more than ever interesting to boys this year, for not matter. which way the twig is bending, there are ingenious toys to help make the tree incline. There are new bits of equipment that may be added to the electric train he already possesses; new windup toys that are positively uncanny in their behaviour, when wound; toy dredge buckets operated by crank leverE and a drum mechanism; damp wagomr and steam shovels in miniature. There is a delivery truck which is also windup toy, but travels at a remarkable rate of speed, and mechanical toys af all sorts have been improved for their 1924 presentation. Exact reproductions of automobiles-many of them carrying a famous name on the front-are

inducement to healthy excellent exercise, for the occupant provides the motiva, power.

DID YOU KNOW

THAT the newest under-arm bag in, completely reversible? The cover ca be turned inside out without removing the contents, the bag of leather line with silk becoming Balken bag linod with leather.

THAT smart now shoes are wearing a very different heel from anything you have ever seen? It is quite straight, on the inside but curved on the outside and it is amartly high.

THAT tunic blouses of printed elk are being devised to lend a gay colour There are caricatures of animals, too, ful note to winter fashions? They wi much more attractive to the youngster provide variety inconnection with than a more life-like reproduction. And ensemble costume suit or be worn with favourite comie supplement characters a costume lip as a frock.

the doll-world. THAT hosiery, like all Gaul; is divid may come to life in Perhaps careful observation will revealed into three parts, or shall w the need of new, doll-buggy; some three families? They are nude, or th new doll luggage, or some plece of are brown or they are gray, but the ber miniature furniture may need replacing liked of the many shades of all three

things, wear out even mare quickly in beige.

The Velvet Dolls Not A Bli Afraid Of The Velvet Dog. Or He Of

Cunning, Aren't They 7

YOU CAN MAKE IT YOURSELF.

It is not too late for the home-made It is the same with many of Lis dirt, if one's choice of what shall be and luncheon date, which live) made is thoughtful and deliberate. Andodgings already stitched on there is no discounting the value of the cases, which have hematitched

inserts; pillow tops with colour home-made gift, whether it be smell or large, if it be thought out with due laid in a pattern ready for bes reference to its reliplent's taste in line outline stitch that will anlahṛthe and colour. There are certain. decorso on through a surprisingly

Another suggestion ribboni tive linens that have been planned for the woman sho has only little time, purse.js slim and your heart to put into hand work, many of them procure for yourself one of thể with an "ainst Anlaked". Took about that tell you what can be them before, they are, begun They ribbons, and you will find that require only a really few stitches to solve every feminine gift prot make them complete with a completes Its pages. Make your ners that tile some article bout the then your list of ribbon.

the ribbon remnant bask handwork-would not possess.

sure to have just what you -""Tiny", "frocks" and aprons also kodas least a part of your gifts frocks for grown-ups; Ingorie of variority conti bangun ampl ous, types and colours; aprons from make yanities, house the cover-all to the "ludge

baskets boxes DL-VETIO:

these come really made up so that the decorative' embroidery cabe dan wa no kannting fear'ní whether steps

"Anush"the"garment of anot