1924-12-27 — Page 11

ן

SANDAY DECEMBER 27, 1924.

THE MODE

THE CHINA MAIL.

IN PROSPECT AND

RETROSPECT

SY BANBHAA

WINSLO

SEEN AT BIARRITZ.

Newspaper dispatches tell us of the garety of the season at Biarritz, the pleasure place where British and Ameri-, eans throng to enjoy the fetes given in the new dining and ball rooms of the redecorated Casino Bellevue; the gala dinners at the Palais Hotel, and the competitions of the polo players. And women folk, who delight in being always a step ahead of fashion, are interested," not so much in what is done, as in what is worn. Daytime frocks; after- noon attire, and the beautiful gowns that appen at the dances on the.. illuminated terrace of the Casino; in them there are prophecies, and who of us are not interested in prophecies, when they concern clothes? Ou own mid-winter season is approaching, and ast so far away one glimpses the Palm Beach season

Frocks for daytime weur savour of the sports and tailored type; so much so that one fashion, observer has termed them uniforms. They are straight of line, one piece in effect, button trimmed and pocketed, or they are in two pieces, consisting of pleated skirt with hip- length blouse note that, particularly, for it shows the perversity of the winds of fashion, that blew hot, with tunics, and now blow cold with shorter blouses. There is a prophecy of satin-stripped sports dresses" for winter resort wear; white and black-not black and white appears; yellow, ping and lilac 'arb favourite colours.

There are large and medium Enta they are strictly "new," but the small' hat is everywhere seen and felt is the fabric, when it is not straw.

Straw! And winter yet a month away! And, gathered here and there, these fashion notes-gray is bidding for favour, especially in accessories; artificial pearls match the dress; shear stockings take the Aesh and sunburnt tinta; lizard akin, appeurs in the smartest shoes; envelope bags match the costume, but the newest hug is of suede with tortolno shell frame. Something to think about, these things "Seen at Biarritz.

OMROMas WOOLO

SELVT. 70,, BE TRUMPS

THIS HANO

THE WEL.

COAT FIPC ITS VERY

Any Outline, No Matter How Extended, Would Be Wholly Inadequate The Mode Is As Varied As It Is. Whimsical.

As a season progresses, fashion crystallizes, so to speak, into form; certain things have been accepted, cer tain things discarded, and one can select from what is left with a reasonable assurance that her choice will be correct. And by "correct" one means that in line and form it has met with the approval of the smart society folk. who are, after all,, the final judges of what shall or shall not be worn. The famous Paris couturieren send us their originu- tions, and from them we select the details that seem best adapted to our purposes, for certain it is that life in our America is very different from life abroad, and the American woman kas a mind of her own when it comes to what she will wear. To outline the mode in detail would be an Impossibility, for there would be quite as much left out s there would be included in that cut- 3ine. It is an amazingly versatile thing the mode of the present day. which will not be the mode of to-morrow or the day after. Et for the day that is it seems quite as satisfactory, and rather more adaptable, than it has been for seasons past. In the continuous truggle for adividuality there is bound: to be a wealth of new ideas, and it is these ideas that make for the versatility of the mode.

Dignity, Simplicity, Luxury Rule. That simplicity can be compatible with dignity and luxury the model of the hour prove with a conclusiveneNA that is without parallel. Depth and richness of colour: great beauty of woven fabrics; beautifal-even exotic trimmings go to make up the fashions of the four, but they seem to make more noticeable the fine simplicity of the Buished product, and the outstand- ing individuality owes much to these details. In times past there was usually only a single featured mode, and it dominated fashion. But it would be somewhat difficult to select, one mode. right now, without slighting others that were proving just as popular, and were quite as "deserving of notige, There have been changes, too, in any the fundamentals, and just to move the instability of any male, there are changes in prospect

The outstanding fashion features of the made as it exists are the tunic: the costame ensemble suit; the Directoire influences, the generous, even prodigal use of far; and the details, of long sleeves, short skirt and high necklines. There have been changes in the texture of fabrics; the cloche hat has yielded its scepire to the high, sqaure crowned modul: the short, tailored rost, part of the boyish tailleur, has been replaced by the suit cout on long that it renches The hem of the skirt and the sleeveles dress has given way to the lung, tight steered model that is a direct opposite. But they do say that the cloche is coming back; that the very newest sult models show shorter coute and the. sleeveless dress is approved fer after- noon or as a part of the more elaborate costume ensemble.

Fabrics are interesting, and Just as important as they are interesting. Day- tine madels incline to ribbed materinis, Whether they be of elk or wool, and the faille, bengaline amt ottoman pilts play a very prominent part In the fabric show. Crepes, volvet, the twills and reps are of importance, and for evening thero is luxurious variety that includes chiffon, the gorgeous velvets and brocades, the laces, tulle and mousseline 'de sole. The doen-piled fabrics of the cost world have given way to the fine woollens suede-Anished

materials that combine so satisfactorily with fur. Stress is luld on the graem ble costume that makes use of the dress, which is usually of beatty and richness, for the lining of the coat... It in a happy idea, this linking of costume parts together.

Colours Rival Fabrics In Beauty. Curiously enough bluck heads the list, when it comes to colour, even in season when there is an unusual depth and richness in the shades presented. The colour range in so diversified that to at the pumes that have been found for the newest tones would be a tedious and a thunkless-task, for oftentimes one is quite in doubt as to what a name may mcan. For example-cranberry red leaves one very much at sea, as to its classification, for it is called, red, hut might easily pass for one of the very many shades of henna. Can't you remember when "henna" was a shade itself? And now, it is a colour of which ・ there are many shades. There are many browns, "blues," greens and reds, all of them lovely and many of ther really attention-compelling. Beige, gray and the purple shades have representa- tion, And now we come to the Ri- houette the most important charac teristic of the mode. We have accepted the straight silhouette as a permanent thing, but while it remains with us, Its popularity is threatened, so very much so that one may almost make the state- ment that the straightline silhouette is really correct only for the strictly tailored garment. When one departs

from the tailored, and enters the realm

STRIKING EMBROIDERED

"ZOTZT ON A

NOVELT

SALA

indicative of her taste. Note the break.] that is so effectively achieved by the se of the panel of plain material, matched by the collar and the sleave banda, Buttons, wholly in keeping with the tailored spirit, add a pole of smart

Jess.

A novelty silk frock, a little less formal, seems to tie at the side, and realizes the effectiveness of distinct motifs of embroidery. There is never an entire absence of the black and white combination in fashion; at times more popular than at others, but it is always correct; it is always smart. No one would deny the practicality-or the Amortness of the pictured suit, and it makes use of a popular plaid; the tunie and fur as a trimming. The agalloped banding is unusual; so, fuo, in the cuff of fur set above a narrow cuff of the fabric which is, in turn, trimmed with buttons covered with the material. The coat is typical of the best-liked models fabric and makes a generous use of fur of fashion. It is of suede-fiabed in a manner that has met with general approval. It is a daytime-coat, not too elaborate for morning wear. but elaborate enough for any semi-forma! afternoon affair.

"DE FINISHED BRIC ST

LUP TRU

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT the vogue of the wide belt of suede leather has been extended to

include collar and cuffs to match? All four pieces have perforated decorations, and the buckle of the belt is self-

THAT the straight line is in danger of being eclipsed by the wiles of the Aared hemline? And the high collar with wide bow cravat is gaining in popularity every day?

is

THE LOVABLE ECCENTRICITY. OF THE ENSEMBLE SHIF

that it takes on the charateristics of an ornament, while its companion plece, the brassiere, is quite sa decorative.

FASHION NOTES.

"The newest bracelets are made of, flexible wire, and are meant to be worn in number-sometimes as many as ten ut a time. A jewelled or link bracelet may lend variety to the group."

Never has fur, both is a fabric and as a trimming, known the popularity. that it is enjoying to-day. The plaid- ing of fur is meeting with unexpected success, appearing in many clever guises.

FOR THE YOUNGSTERS CHRISTMAS MORNING

growing in popularity, and the tunic, The costume slip has been gradually.

a vogue of the present season, has set the final seal on the favourite. As an covered,

undergarment it aids in the keeping of THAT the woman who aderas museu-alender "lines, and as a part of the line apparel now may wear who the easemble costume it rises to heights it

If we are to make a success of our British term the "singlet?" It is made

has never reached before, taring on

Christmas giving-of every separate of fine zephyr yarn, and is really a ruoat

all the characteristics of the separate article on our carefully-thought-out gift uttractive sweater.

skirt, and doing away with belts and is we must consider, first of all, the wearing of a brassiere. It travels, Propriateness, for it is the keynote at times, under the name of "tunic alip,"

that leads to the solution of every pro- and the fine fabric of which the lower

bler. There is usually a baby or two on the list, and the brief span of its part is made is pleated, more often than

little life precludes the possibility of not, while the upper part remains plain. The forourile material is crepe-back prove either interesting or diverting in any very wide choice gifts that will satia, for it has a body to it, and really its wake-a-little and sleep-u-lot" day. replaces the separate skirti

Lingerie in general keeps to the one of three ways-the offering may So the question must be answered in warm, rather than the high colours, and curly amuse, for an hour or so; it may there in black, for her who like its be something that will aid mother in sambre note. Two characteristics pre-making the little one more comfortable; vall-duintiness and the tailored finish future, and its enjoyment in days to or it may be given with an eye to the the latter imperative, if underthings come. are to be consistent with the silhouette, Even when ribbons and laces and French flowers are used, they are applied with a flotness that is distinctly tailored in its effect. Net is the newest and beat liked trimming, and it both edges and makes the ribbon runs, though hardly practical for the latter. It makes very lovely foundation for appliqués, it must be laundered with exquisite care? embroidered motifs and lace Inserts, but Fashioned of fine, soft fabrica, ever piece is made with the most exquisite care, whether it be untrimmed, or mora elaborate in it ganersi effect.

THAT the really smart woman casting aside the decorative cuffed glove and wearing in its place the losse pull on? These newest gloves are of gray or beige suede" and are quite devoid of trimming.

UNDERTHINGS

ARE TOUCHED WITH

ORIGINALITY

While one must admit that the gowns and chemises and step-ins, to which we have become accustomed, will not ständ rigorous scrabbing, one must alas ctin- sider the fact that they are not expret-

of the formal and the semi-formul, he day woman to conceive the ugliness of It is almost impossible for the present immediately becomes coneins of the Eared hemline, which changes the sil-wore-bat does not, one feels safe in the underthings that her grundmother houette, though it does not appreciably saving, wear now. detract from its general impression of

The fabrics were slimness, It is achieved by fources, modern point of view; the trimmings heavy, ugly, quite impossible from our inserts-usually of the godet type and were equally heavy, ugly, impossible;- pleats, and at times, when the tugic is

4. the tunic Aurus.

and the lines were shapeless, ugly, im While there are many types of possible there are no other words to sleeves, the long sleeve is "the thing." imagine a lady of the remote days of express the characteristics, One can for daytime wear; the round, square, bateau und V-neck are seen, but the

all This unattractiveness suddenly very newest neck nish has a high lingerie department of a department plunged into an orgy of buying in some collar; skirts are short; the scarf is store; one can pieture har bewilderment,. variously and effectively ated (heher awe, and--perhaps-her instinctive waistline is high, low or does not exist at all. These are essential detalls, and, frivolous, tas fragic.

feeling that modern underthings are too shadowing them all, are the trimmings, on which the mode depends for much of its popularity. Fur is, art and foremost, to be considered, it trims shy and everything that it could be, saita, frocka, cunts and blouses; it is when it comes te source, and huld together. I any one for lends as 'a trimming, it is leopard and the spotted fors that are so effie've, especially on browe. The very newest cost is bluck with hopard 'eut trim. Buttons, fringes, embroideries, appliques--no trimming b negleed in the scheme of things.

A Wide Choice Of Tailored Models. Because the average woman has more asos for the practical, tailored dress, east or suit, tailored things have been chosen to illustrate the general features of the made. A coat frock with tunke aroclivities ahows conclusively, that fabrics can be decorative, for the fabrie is the "making" of this frock fr more ways the one I apo of the fur What, in particular, has the past year banding and the ornamental closing, the brought us, in the way of new unders model, la strictly tailored, and its apparel? Not so much that is wholly sleeve, long as a tailored alcoved thould be, has the well-liked fare at the wrist originality has been introduced inth the original, but a very great deal of Rathor sporting in its type the dress of clever adaptations of things that we novelty plaid that gives one the impres- have seen before. The rubber corset, aion of tapetry. Its owner may be byldgo enthusiast, and; place her faith,mado dainty, wearable sndi altogethari with recompanying- brassfere, HAY BOOK? In diamonds, if the pattern is at all. lovely, so very much so that it is being.

Dren

to, and they are, moreover, impera- tive, if one is to keep her slender straightness, What would we do with all the bulk of iphrie and trimming that they wire in the century pat? ̈ ́ll is out of the question, of course. when undergarments are of tho aim.. plest, most inexpensive kind, they are kraceful of line, fine of fabric, and pro possessing in their beauty, Simplicity. while it can be most expensive, can be had for a moderate expenditure-indeed, the garment that is not costly must be simple, there is nothing so tawdry, as cheap trimming, even sparsely appliqi. Better that the garment be 'wholly un- trimmed.

worn for its beauty and comfort, even when one has no faith in actual ruducing properties. It certainly does reduce the appearance of "size. And the corset of to-day is so really lovely

that it will divert the wundering attan- In making a gift to baby with an iden tion for a brief space, one must trust. to luck. for what amuses one small person will be scornfully passed by in another case. It may be a rattle in the quine of a colourful bird; it may be

There Be Never A Whumper-No Matter How Distasteful Porridge May Be With Such A Service.

and silver, that will make the hated porridge lasts ever so much better; there are diminutive chairs, convenient pieces of furniture to house baby's wardrobe or help in the sometimes terrible process of the bath; and many

The Cut And The Dog-Hereditary Enemies Though They Are-Emulate The Lion And The Lamb..

most unusual accessories for the art of the toilet. '

One may be severely practical, when It comes to the gift of the future, and if one takes a practical view she realizos that, it is an expansive business, nova- days, bringing up and educating even one little person, in the way he should' be brought up and educated. So there la thu always acceptable gift of gold, to be added to the bank account the ader- ing father and mother started, when the baby wabara. And incidentally, there is no gift moro acceptable whatever the age of the recipient may bo, for t always moane, the fulfilment of some desire that orgy may husitate to exprenu.

a quaintly amusing velvet dog or bear: It may be a jointed, wooden cat that will usumo grotesque pastures with no arging, whataoayor, or it may be one of the huge family of rubber folk that make even tho hated bath intriguing, One never can tell about the amazing younger generation that seems almost uncanny in its porceptions. A small boy of eleven months turned down avery sort of a tov that was hopefully pro- sented for his approval for a battered truck-with--one whoomlesing, and mother soon found that anything on the baby is a girl, and-one belongs wheels would amuse, and nothing but to the family or is an old family friend, wheeled toys. A chance for propheta there are the necklaces that begin with and soothsayerst za AYA

single pearl for the first Christmas, There are so many things, these days; and add one pearl for every year until that pertain to the comfort of the very a Cullittagih necklace is obtained. young baby that if the gifts to take There is Kiways, an excuse for an extra that form there will be no difficulty in pearlon birthday, an anniversary making a entiafactory choica eraus: Kaigri, nifedman, the years temany are odd little dishes," of china, pottery the neck toe grows in beauty and value.