1924-10-18 — Page 11

SATURDAY, OCTOBER, 18, 1924.

THE CHINA MAIL

WHEN LUXURY PLAYS A PART IN

EVERY DETAIL OF THE MODE

JSSUAL AND SUGGESTIVE of

DECORATIVE POSSIBILITIES

WING SLEEVES

THE SEMI-FLOUNCE PHYSI

At Times It Is the Fabric, Again It Is the Trimming, and Yet Again It Is a Detail That Is Decorative.

WHETHER one's choice be a garment,

for formal or informal wear, a gown of lace or a simple little cotton frock, the trend of the season's mode leads her to expect-with a reasonable Assurance of getting an element of luxury. It is nm always the decorative quality of the fabric or the trimming that makes it so, although both have much to do with it, of course, but rather the sophistication of finely drawn lines and the application of details. It is, in brief, no one purticalar thing, bat everything in general-colour, fabrics, trimmings, lines and details, the one dovetailing into the other with complete SUCCURS. There never was greater simplicity, but it is the simplicity that results from fine tailoring-than that there is nothing more conducive to charm, and charm is luxury.

The Mode Owes Much To Fabrics And Colours.

1.

bronze and gold. Harsh tones :hove disappeared, and in their place we have flattering and exotic tints, muny of them new. Olive, moss, almond and Lanvin green are not new, but neti choke and aquamarine came in with the present season; the pig-tail, powder and Madonna shades of blue are new to us; and sheik, tile and Casanova red are new with the spring The sequence of shades in very well-liked colour has been extended, so the steps between are shorter, and this makes for finer lines and more subtle tonings of the fashion picture. The Chinese use of lacquer red and blue has affected our colour achenies, expecially in appliques and embroideries. Soft shades of dis- tinet colours and the delicate pastel shodes are much used and well-liked

The Choice Of Trimmings, Notably Wide.

Featured trimmings, like featured fubrics and colours, are here to-day and gone to-morrow. But for the sake of those who look always for the notable exception that proves the rule let it ba said that this season is the proof they are seeking, for there is hardly a decorative trimming that can be men- tioned that is not generously used by fashion. 4n4,

Yet we are forced to characterize them all as "new" because of the differentness of their application. Embroideries-in wool, slik, bende, metal, braid and ribbons-fenture the art of China, Spain, Persia, Russia, Japan, Ukraris, every and where .counteri an Bri. embroidery is Frequently the appealing motif of the etched with metal threads design is over the silks, the brilliance accentuat- ing the colour scheme as well as out- lining the design. Bead embroideries- especially those done

Fashion is standing just now where the paths of spring and summer meet, and modes are both prospective and retrospective, including in any sun- the af their characteristics mary

of the deceptive heavier garments spring muntha and the light-weight silks and cottons of warmer Viewing the entire mode with critical and analytical eye, she seen how really gorgeous are the materials and colours and how beautifully upt the trimmings that become a part of them. But it is Hot so much that fabrics are beautifully patterned--or both that entours are gay or rich, as the case may be, or that trimmings are exquisite, dainty or of rare elegance; it is, rather, that they are applied and combined with a left originality that makes for striking originality.

Woven

F

stee!

or

THE ALL-LACE

"O/POS LOVEJ

BRIEF BOLER

YesTRÍCH.

THE PATTERN DRESS.

"A"S"the" "summer season" approaches, and catton frocks become an Important part of the wardrobe, the export needle-woman-and the needle woman not so expert-begins to make plans for variety in the simple dresses that mean frequent changes... The art needlework departments and the dress goode section of the various storca combine to interest and aid her in

FABRICS FASHION

EVENING GOW

"VOGUES.”

11

FACH season's mode is, like "All

Gaul,” divided into parts, but one finds, after a critical observation, that these parts number considerably more than the thres that Caesar teils m sufficed the Latins. Wo speak. Ok, fashion and the mode fù a general way, but they are, in reality, made up of many separate modes or fashions that have come to be known as "voguen. This fact is specially noticeable this present season, when designata ;-have found It to their liking to offer us many choices in our apparoling. And wo fiud, too, that it is not unusual' for the hint of one season to become a vogue of the 'nart, the whole matter depending on the success of the hint,

What, then, are the classifications of the mode for the present, season 7: First and foremost, "The Vogue of the Tailored Salt," which is a fashion In Itself, including in its sab-division hats, blouses, shoes and all the accessories of- costuming Then there is "The Voggo of Black and White, of Blue and White, of Black and Rod and the Blue and Red: "The Vogue of the Scarf," and The Vogue of the Cape," all those definito fashion features seon every where, Froquently one vogue replacem another, for example-"The Vogue of Things Egyptian" has given way to "The Vague of Things Chinese," and so it goes.

The same idea is carried into trim- minge, and just now we are making use of certain decorative details prac- tically to the exclusion of all the others, "The Vogue of Lace"—both as a fabric and a trimming; "The Vogue of Buttons;" The Vogue of Ostrich;" and "The Vogue of Pleats"? are the most prominent, but others are assuming an importance that will, perhaps before the season ends, elevatá them to the rank of a separate and distinct fashion. Once a fabric, a stylo or a trimming has reached the point where it is generally featured, it has become, a vogue, and it is by these vogues that we best know fashion.

Paris i now wearing-and New York featuring the colours in hosiery known as "acorn," "Sunburn,” “nude, and a shade of gray known "gray-31." They are correct only when the hosiery itself is very, sheer.

93

Aro

achieving a smart, and interesting collection at a comparatively smal outlay of money and time. Semi-made come in a variety of materiale-liners, -dresses-with embroidery patterns chambrays, popline, tissue ginghams already stamped and the colour scheme and the like-and usually a finished outlined may be had, as well as pattern on display gives one the neces- pattern dresses that require very little sary information concerning the various sewing to. complete.

stitches used. Colour schemes suggested, but one may conazit her own preference in the matter, of course. As a rule the stitches are the simplest- running stitch, cross stitch, lazy datay stitch, couching stitch and outline and the actual work of completing the frock is very small,

The loveliest of the latter come in Imported printed crepe, and feature all the newest shades-rose, tangerine, Jade, black and white and navy blue and white. The semi-made dresses

THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE ART

of LINGERIE

THINK back-if so be it lives within With every season some new improve-colours and vivid designs-is a new

your memory-to the days when

ment appears, and rothing could be lightweight, silken undertakings were unheard of luxuries; when heavy loveller than the mode of underthings. materials, heavy hamburg and lace White Las been almost wholly replaced edgings-many of them knit

or by colour, although some there are crocheted at home-and many deep tucks and "aid" gathers were features who cling to the tubable freshness of

It white materials. of the under-garment fashions. would be difficult to reconcile, the

Materials change with the seasons petticoats and corset, covers of those days to the slim, straightline silhouette nowadays, and while rodium silk, satin of the present period, and just as cropes and crepa de chine are, the dicult to imagine the modern woman preferred fabrics of the winter months, in anything but light weight fabrics, with the coming of spring and the even when cotton is the choice, for sa

rapidly has, the "art of lingerie" pro- heralding of summer Georgette and gressed that even the simplest garmente chifon are featured, and the voiles and [A]E dainty in their texture

attractive in their styling.

and batistes predominate in the cottons.

It is easily seen that the lighter and more sheer the fabric, the more accept- able it is so far as the slim lina, outer garment-is-concerned,-for-it-does-not- increase size or interfere with the slenderness that is so desirable. And

The long-sleeved, high-necked gown of many hand-run tueks and painfully "aid" frills has given place to the tailored garment, low of neck and either The that the straight and narrow silhoutte contrast the decorative with the plain short of sleeve or sleeveless. is daily growing straighter and slim that individualizes an otherwise separate petticoat, fulled into a band, and the corset cover, with draw string mer, and the general effect is usually ineffective model. one of simplicity, elaboration is the Point de Venise lace-in combination around the waist and unnecessary full trimmings, while they are many and ness below the waist have been applied in various ways, are so treated with ecru crepe de chine; wing sleeves, discarded to make way for the costume keynote of the mode. But it is subtle,

that they keep to the tailored slender. sophisticated, deceptive elaboration, held in place by a narrow band above

ness of the mode.. difficult of uchievement or of analysin. the elbow; and a semi-Rounce finish toplip or the camisole that is worn with It is a sort of gorgeous simplicity, the front panel are the unusual features knickers or the step-in type of garment. winsome and exquisite, but amazingly of a frock of the richly simple type. hard to define. It includes scarfs, A touch of colour in the waist ornament flounces, capes, hints of draperies, gives it the tone its light colouring aprons, and the most unusual combine... seems to need. Cobwebby lace with tions of materials and colours. Pleats diaphanous chifon are the fabrics have grown tiny, it having been found employed in the tight-waisted, that the small pleat is more decorative | skirted frock, that is, nevertheless, than the large; alpaca.is trimmed with vastly improved by the intricate, wind- lace; scarfs on plain frocks are mostings of a picat-edged moire ribbon and exotic, and so it goes all through the spray of fabric flowers applied with mode. Nothing is omitted that will a deal of artistry. The even bem add to the beauty of the model under | Fine, with an appearance of length that is not, acemia a general feature of the

Crepes are not new; silks are not sapphire brads, are more popular than new; laces, chiffona, broenden und talle ever, and the all-over beaded frock hus ar not new; linens, voiles, cotton become a practically staple fashion,

Ribbons and ribbonzine; metal crepes and muslins are not new. But there have never been taffetus as lovely i gnuzes; laces; fringes; galloon; as the hew, lustrous chiffon weaves; appliqués tapestries; braids-there is silks as quaintly youthful as those of no restriction, apparently, so that any Pompadour designs; satin crepes ag thing decorative may be used. Buth enus as those designed by Bnkst; a fabric and a trimming, lace' is a metal brocudes as soft and supple an leader in the world of fushion. It the ones that employ the velvety tints lends its grace to whoy frocks; la tiers, of pansy and violet shades. Butterflyaprons, Hounces and ruffles: yokes, chiffons, sprinkled with flowers in cuffs and collura; trims dresses and delicate tints, gauzy, tissue tulles and lingeris and hats; and generally makes laces, rich and heavy, or as light as the itself useful, Summer furs-especially mist of a cobweb contribute their on the dressier type of sults; wrapsj rority to the semi-formal and formal capes and evening frocks are one of mode; and embroidered linens-eyelet the loveliest of the season's trimmings, a favourite form of hand work and summer squirrel, summer ermine drop-stitch and printed volles and and all the softer, lighter weight furs novelty cottons-many of them elaborare-used. Ribbon fashion girdles, | consideration. ately woven und inspired by Egypt or flowers, or scarfs are used with lace to make, un entire frock. They aru Bowered, brocaded, striped, and above And over the richness and fineness all else luxurious and decorative. of fabric is cast the glamour and glory But fabrics, colours and trimmings of colour; of distinctive black and are by no means all-we have yet to white; of the metals-silver, copper, I consider details. In spite of the fact

India, make the cotton frock mode a rarely lovely study.

"ALL BUTTONED DOWN BEFORE.”.

THE story of the "old gray coat" et a cortain good old man would not be complete enough for the tale of the fashionable garment of to-day, for while fashion makes generous use of buttons "down. before,“ sho makes an equally genercus use of buttons down the back, and round and round in many Interesting ways and hitherto inthought of uses. For the button, as a trim- ming motif, is a smart, and deservedly

lap, and for variety's sake they may be sowed on with silk in a contrasting colour, thus forming a pattern all down the band. Coloured pearl buttons are used on sheer materials, the frock worn over a sip of the same colour as the buttons: elaborate models for semi-formal wear have buttons that are gorgeous or unique, as the case misy be; tailored dresses wear buttons effectively, those of pearl or bone or

the proference.

popular fashion, combining as it does srover edging, Banding or ont-

The Pictured Frocks Emphasize Luxury. formal dress.

full-

Ar though a metal fabric in combina-All of lace-when not trimmed or tion with willowy ostrich were not sharing. honours with it--that is one enough, the designer makes an elabor. fundamental of the fabric mode for ate use of fabric flowers on the low-pring. Lace flouncings, in two shades waisted, sleevelssa type of frock. The alternating, made the tight bodice and short, full skirt takes on an appearance a skirt. wired to a boufant effect. An of length with the addition of pointed uneven hem edge is achieved by the panel effects; remaining short, nover simple expedient of adding a flounce theless. The straight simplicity of the

on both sides; but not in front. This bodice forms a smart and neoded con- frock is worn over a dark coloured trast to the elaborately decorated skirt. costume silp. Thus, briefly, is the Vari-coloured embroideries and ap mode expressed in terms of a simplicity pliques give АП appearance

that is, at one and the same time, of individuality as well luxury to a gorgeous and sophisticated. Lovely frock of sheer material that would, fabrice, brilliant and unusual, colour otherwise, be extremely ordinary, in effect, elaboration of trimming and spite of its unusual lines. It is just complication of cut-all combine to Buch touches and detalls of decoration achieve for as both our dress and our that make the mode of the season: strictly uülitarian appareling. Fashion distinctive, and it is this use of shayld be proud to sponsor such a moda.

DID YOU KNOW

-THAT-s-clever-new-under-the-arm

bag of French mocha or moire

a patch pocket for the handkerchie

The decorative and, the tailored fuits usa. --The effects achlored by the very Iming can be used, buttane ure used. ***enerous use of buttons are clover and They outline panels, tiers and Bounces)

arcada, and it time they form the zuge teeves, neckties, kény edge and??WHAT: newest hat zabrje in bengaline Hole trimming of the very smartest sort collars; and, mark a lowered waistline, and it is a whim of the hour to of frock Nafter the manner of belt. They have the model strictly tailored, amall, Buttons of white or smoked pearl-appear on raang of the loveliest places and trimmed with band and buckle 7 fre extremely popular; buttons of bone of neckwear, on gloves; on shoes, and Black is the preferred choice, but the de metal are used; and certain frocks; "make: most unusual trimming for hata brim Is faced, in colour. photo matched Thon a' preferenca fór button): covered of the strictly tailored.type. Whatevne: S THAT Ike-latest novelty bracelet in with the material of which the frock is their bag, wherever it may be, they are mide. A band of lace from neckline strikingly effective, thore so than any to hem may be outlined in white buttons other new trimming of the present met; so closely together that they prer:BERBONE

The latter is provided with the bag, since the trimmings of the two must

THAT the "love-link," festured-

made of links of sterling silver. "And" the bracelet, is now appearing on the weas {ucky charm 17- The charra will at under-the-son bag and as a choker beoff French anamsi, and may be collar for wear with the taBored suit? anyone of several whimsical designate. It may be bad in foo, in well,

women

Two fabrics there are that remain through all the seasons, the soft materials used-by-the-French-in-their- hand-madd undertakings, and imitated, very successfully in 'the Philippines and Porto Rico, and glove silk Many wear ite exquisitely embroidered garments, in white or faint pink; to the exclusion of all others, and the vogue of glove silk is growing apace. It is luxurious, dainty, feminine and eminently sensible-that is, if the owner of glove, silk under things will give them decent care. The colours-maize, pink, peach, orchic, sun glow and mountain hazoare exquisite, and trimmings are as lovely as the colourings, Tallored or picot edges distinguish the garments, and slik

idea.

'Perhaps no one thing contributes are to a 'trim appearance so far as undor garments are concerned-than the costurae slip. It does away with. the broken line at the waist, and alimirates avery bit of superfluous full- ness, two very excellent characteristics. 3t is to be found in silk, crepe de ching,

brald applied flatly, satin tailoring, Polar A Simplicity That Hints Or hemstitching, Lagoting, laces and The Tailored This Gown Strikes embroideries are favourite decorative treatments, Glove silk may now be "Blatinelly Feminine, Note, had in gowns and envelope chemises, as well as the knee-length union suits) knickers and vestu. ? **The matched sets, and single pieces and various lingerie materials and may of Georgette, chiffon or volie and of, be plain; and tailored, exceedingly, the heavier fabrics, if one prefers them decorative, or take the form of a bodica- *are, preferably, in colours, and there with pleated skirt för-wear, under, the is some use of black, white and black ssparate funie vor sepstume, bloques with flame or French blue. Flesh, When the matarial is thin, the garment, paach, white - and “orchid are the has a desp, shadow-proof hip ham, and favourite shades, and they are kept to this is, feature of most of the lingerie their dainty tones by the simple pro- modala: A grant deal of lapa in nash. cess of tinting-In the tub. “After the Fon the latter, and they are a most desire. tallored Anist much liked bacause of fable: addition to the wardroberupa | Ita fat lying lines Place in the favourite retrospect, crepes – doen z tebe – the trimming, and all the loveliest types; favourlie, matarínis in silks, and yvale, Chantilly, Princess, rose point,” Irish, in "getton fabrica, the Georgettes and Val, Calais, Margot "and" point da | ehitans landera in the danties, Venise gre pressed viintoarvion

Frill of Flacd or des embroidery and stap-in and corama

the butt-H{{## vezi portrait, medallions:: appliques: plants; (ibres i pieces, con eläings Kindle And Boparata Skirt Have monograms and, buttons, have their outht that it la dimonis en Gowe Down To Defeat Before The wins in a decorative way and Russian, one would keep to the Convenient, Corteme Blip.

platke" work-land painting:

“Ebat fashion