1924-09-20 — Page 11

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1924.

THE CHINA MAIL.

When Fashion Dines and Dances

BY GARBARA

SA

modole. If, as some fashion, prophets say, we are to have Princess and Directoire modes when winter, fashions arriva, then we are due foram › resi change, and there are hints of several changes in these models. A wider skirt secras probable," býsn thongh the width be achieved by subterfuge; the unaven homling comes back it has over really been away; the waistline Is creeping up.. The sleeveless dress is approved for evening wear-and it is certaintys.comfortable fashion for summer, but it is noticeable, that the too bare look is more often than not, rem loved by the scarf, which is now counted a part of the dress itself.

Without bouffant model no group of evening frocks would be really repre- sentative. No lovelier choice could save been made' than the youthful dress of Georgatte crepe with its ruffled panels- the ruffes of the same fabric. The bodice is beaded to a pattern that is suggestive of the Chinese, though it may be merely inspired, and the walst- line is outlined-with a narrow, ribbon girdle and artificial silken fruits. The skirt was, originally, extremely short, but the panels changed all that, and there in the appearance, at least, of length. Apropos of the beaded bodice, one is led to remark that the hand made, beaded gown-of French origin

a fashion for evening, as well as afternoon. The beads are very tiny. und the stitches are of the nestas Paris loves them.

Although an one of the pictured models employs it, chiffon is one of the. most popular. fabric for afternoon, dinner and dance gowns. Its sheer beanty and beautiful colourings are seen in flounced, pleated and lace-trimmed frocks of great beauty, and chiffon in two tones; ombre chiffon; and patterned chiffons are all very generally used. Satin ribbons; fine criss-cross tuckings; tinsel laces; benda and brilliants aro used as trimmings, and a wide variety of treatments characterizes the vogue. It is the privilege of the evening frock to prophesy, since it may, embody extremes of modes, that are, in their entirety, united for daytime use. And no prophet is more interesting than the fashion prophet.

GLOPOLTTLE PITH LACE-

PARES BEHUPY PRACTICAL

The Regal Magnificence of Velvets and Brocades Gives Way to the Subtle Simplicity of Crepes and Chiffons.

THE problem of the formal mul semi- the length was delusive, too, Maris

model that starts out straight and slender from the neckline and keeps to its straight and narrow way as far as the waist, changes its mind and chats the aid of the Bounce, the godet, the trimmed panel or a bit of

drapery, RO that

THE SWAVYL

Vs No kaNYGEP ANACCESSO/PY

.while keeping, flounces, panels, inserts. The charming mysteriously, an appearance of slender little model of white satin Canton nesa, it is not really slender at all. And plainly intended atmight line effect, these diversified skirt treatments incline but changed its mind with real reason, to make the skirt length greater than when, the waistline was reached. The was originally intended.

result is a panel effect in front, a full skirt as a result of the inserts fulled in at the sides, and a much longer skirt than the panel front promises as a result of the ostrich trim. Rhinestones and benda make the design on the panel and define the waistline, but preserve the length of the panel by running op the side front.

Proof of this, the pictured models, In no one of them can we find even atrace of unbroken straight lines, yet the effect of all of them there, slenderness. And original skirt lengths are modified-by a scalloped hemline or

formul fructe for summer wear has buen solved most satisfactorily, this" present season. And the solution is of interest, not only for its relation to "models designed for immediate use, but for the undoubted prophecies that there models hold. Quite in a class by them. selves, these fracks, that have pravlited an opportunity for creative designers to express their individual ideas through the medium of fabrics-dollcutely beautiful; unusual applications of buth new and old trimmings; and the mode of any period or people that may have appealed to them. The evening mode borrow a certain glamour from the lights and music of festive affairs; itTARING into consideration all the about the softly shaded lamp that casts

accessories of household furnish-un intriguing glamour over the room.

Apart from the standards of maho-

ΤΟ CREAΤΕ ΑΝ AtmosphERE

OF CHARM.

is acurated and complemented by jewelsings--and there are many of them-

and the most charming of all the there is one that stands pre-eminent us gany and walnut; polychrome; or paint- costume accessories; and it hakis appeal "bright and shining light one used and enamelled wood, there are those for young and old alike, by virtue of its the compurison in a serious, not a af hand wrought iron, Florentine in undoubted beauty. As the scope of the whimsical vein. And this accessory is their "feeling." To be sure they are designer has widened, through her study the lamp, which may be extended, in its produced in Americu, but the spirit of of the best that fashion history has to general meaning, to include every surt foreign, master craftsman is there, and

in certain settings.nothing offer, the wasver's art has advanced,

Is lovelier- and the chemists who control the dye-of a lighting fixture within the home. nots of the world have been increas And each lamp should be chosen for the or quite as lovely: The adjustable floor main it is to udorn, lest, boautiful in or bridge lamp, that may be moved to ingly active. No mason would be com-itself, it he no adornment, but an ugly, the convenience of the reader, should lete witheat now fabries or new varia inartistic, jarring note, Right now, be a furnishment of every living room, sions of old fabrics and new shades of when it is truly fashion's "off season,"

and the end tablo, the "centre" table familiar colours.

the home keeper is replenishing her any table at all that is the centre of a household supplies, and many include furniture group-should have its well With Euch Season There I Change.

on their lists the word "lamp," qualified, chosen lamp. When one season dies and another is bura, we look for the inevitable changes according to one's individual needs, by the word "bridge," 01 floor," or that are sure to follow. Ferhaps the uradoir" or "desk," as the case muy be. most steady, withal the most subtle,

Choosing a lamp presents somewhat transformation is to be noticed in the

the same problem that choosing a hat- "ready-to-wear" garments that are fill- ing the racks, in the smart shops, and valves, for it must have individuality, yet possess the khack of seeming a part rapkily replacing the individan,product of everyone but the most skilled of the whole. Els standard or base must "go" with the furniture, and its shade kostumer. diany of these garments are copies of gonains, signed "models" that harmonize with the scheme of

were purchased at a really stupendous sum, and with every season the dosigner who buys and copies, adapting a mode! to the type for which she designs, and the designer who makes models to be cupied are incrousing in number. Many

interior decoration, which YEASTER that it

be chosen Mukt

fur its daytime colour and ita evening colour, since light

We are so familiar with the lamp base of metal of wood that it is a real delight to consider the impressively charming lump of glass, faience or pottery. Huge Chinese Yaxes or Italian oil jara; Bassano urns in all white or decorated with colour; French faience yanes or Spanish pottery baies of the most delightful sort; and Persian pil jars provide a selection that sasures a satin- factory cholce. And if one has tired of the shade of silk or Georgette, there are shades of stretched oil silk painted through fabric tn, bright colours, and a paper shado may make an unsatisfactory change. may replace the familiar parchment, One's eyes turn, instinctively, the former ornamented with Bower, ship when entering a room, to the lighted or Godey fashion prints. It is impera- of the first modele are imported, and Imp, and more often than not the Brettive, when chousing, to assure one's self require subtle change to make them Impression is the one that is carried that the shade harmonizes with the rudy for the American Lype of woman. away. Home life centres about the lump base, for it may be wholly foreign. So much for the increasingly popular replace, it is sald, but it centres, too, to it, when the lights are turned on. roudly made frock, which comes, not infrequently, at a price that would have bought, in seasons gone by, a genuine import. Many of our choicest fabrics come from foreiga looms, certain coun- tries specializing in. certain materials, “But whatever their hource, the goods |---

from which, the designer chooses is'as, widely varied, as it is beautiful-onu may adit for the present season-doll- cately beautiful. The chiffons, laces and tulle in the more fragile wenvoa; the Grepes-Georgette the most adaptable to the formal mode; end certain #lka..... taffeta, much in favour for a certain bojant type-are, the resð summer fabrics. In their treatment lies their claim to variousness.

While there is no colour-one forma p habit of referring to it as such- that la more lovely, or mare appropriate to the season, than white, there are zodels in all the delicate pastal' shades; block and white; and a deal of flame and the newest, quaintest shades of blue, green and yellow. All black seems a bit hoavy for summer wear, but it has a representation, and. Paris

Inyour, with many.

Deception A Fundamental Of The Hoda

ways than ona, su evening, ception.

Lock" quiky "be" deceptiva,

Berry, the BAYE

the mode." If onE WERE CANON Zescribe the evolite"""

ay that it was a straight-line, shor akirted, alimple Tone," but "-analysis" would prove that: the straight Ines were not what they soomed, and

Casting A Bubdued Glow, Yat Animating The Whole Boom With Beau

There Must Be Lanips.

Lace in combination with fabric-in one frock Autin; in

Recond the Georgette; in the third crepe-and the sarf motif as a part of the dress itself, ure the fundamentals of three frocks

AB three incline to the all different. black and white combination, one pre-. ferring the black on a frock of white; another trimming a black frock with white; and a third achieving the effect through the use of heavy knotted fringe on the scarf ends. The scarfs vary in length and width-one comparatively arrow and not so very long; another reaching nearly to the hem; and the third so broad and so long that it takes on the proportions of a shawl. The twa white frocks make use of embroideries one in a single flower spray on the bodire: the other joining the lace to the fabric-white on black, black on white.

in

Much That is Prophetic.

The close observer will find much that prophetic fi these of-the-season

Spain Proves a Satisfactory

Ally

WHETHER Fashion-or Spain-made Perhaps the most important Spanish the first advances in the matter, fashion--and there seems no changing certain it is that an alllance has been or modifying it is the shawl, which has effected between the two, and Spain, become an accepted part of the evening. growing in influence daily, is proving mude, beautifying it more than any one. must satisfactory ally. The influence single "new" thing has done in the past of this land of colour and romaneo in few years, As a wrap; as part of a

The Persistent Vogue Of The Spanish Shayi Han Mlade 11 A Generally Accepted Fashion Faet.

STEEL CUT STEEL.

for yellow.

Many of the loveliest. Spanish " shawls do not come from Spain, but from China or Italy, but they are."done in the Spanish manner," which answers the purpose quite as well. The scarf. VERY once in a while cut-steel is an offshoot of the shawl, and no men- stages a come-buck, and each time tion need be made of its unableness and it brings something interestingly new effectiveness as a part of any and every to fashion. In the search for variety costume from the tailleur or tailored that the modes of the present seasOD frock to the most gorgeously, formal have made necessary, it is not strange dance attire,

that it should be utilized, for costume "Both red and yellow in certain | jewellery and costume details have shades-owe their popularity to Spain, increased in number to keep pace with and wherever one sees them in com the demands of the ensemble. Buckled bination, there-again-is Spain. In shoes have returned and no material in making use of these two colours it is more, effective, on the graceful pumps well to remember the dark eyes and that call for this type of adornment. glowing beauty of the Spanish women Oval, oblong and circular, in a variety of who wear them so well, for they are not novelty shapes, they glitter enticingly. becoming to all types and races. Lace not infrequently matching in pattern the coming from Spain to use a pro- exquisitely designed bracelet of the fab minent fashion of the hour. The that swings from handbag, suit, skirt Spanish beauty knows its value as a or blouse pocket. Fringes of cat steel of headdress, but we, of America, have may finish the fob that has a slide little use for the mantilla. But we have the same material, or there may be a decided uses for the beautiful. Chantilly pendant of the steel. They are making laces, the Spanish laces, the all-kinds of both single and double headed hat pins, laces that have sprong up with the dress ornaments and earrings," of" this mode. Hardly an evening frock bat fascinating metal, and the simplicity of makes use of, lace, afternoon frocks the "Jewellery" made from cut steel. find it charming, and tailored garments makes it unusually smart and fascinat wear it in eaffs and collars.

DID YOU KNOW-

THAT A NEW "bob bundotto of blackmode is the tunic silhouette, and the taffeta is hand-painted and adjustedtuilchlansa in cera. Georgette with fick with a buside over alther ear? That anand embroidery, In the nowent tunie iridescens, trelila, of silver, or pastelfashion?

laural" Isavas fashion, another hob THAT the smart Parisienne now bandeau, for evening wear, a scarf of tinted silk with

to be aver in many detalls of the mode,gowa; as an accessory to the gown; it some early recognizable, Others petunds general use, the hot Only LNG noticeable, yet none the less wore andgorgeousness of its colourful embra efective? It is quite true of the in-deries, but the quality of its deep fluance of any country that when it firstfringes and the silk that makes it add appears in fashion it is in colours, lingst its joy ass phasession. Some of the or motifs that have been adopted out-lovellest of these shawl are embroiders right, but as time goes on the idese arved on black the sombreness of the basing corset is responsible for the anklewonderful colour, harmoniea? Delicile adapted to the mods as well as adopted ground an effective setting for the birds;; sì a part of the mode. This la the caseflowers and other motifs that stand out With Spanish ideas, which have beenagainst it. Some are done in the many. for several seasons Fa part of ourtones of one "golden the yellows epacially lovely in view of Laaltion'a fairfashiona

That the vague of the rubber reduc patiems of huge popples or roses in redsear that comes in three length)) Khatračaries of mauve, pale green and roma has a double reinforcement under theon white and almond groan patterned arch of the foot and around the anicis in rose, are the prevaling.colour com

THAT the newest tendency of thebinations Zalae