1924-09-13 — Page 11

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 1924.

THE CHINA MAIL

TO FINISH VACATION SEASON

THE COLOUR CARDI FOR FALL

DROPHETIC this, as much of what one says of fashion, these days, la bound to be, Wo have had many startling, even crude colours during the past fow sennoùn, but there is a decided Lendency to refinement in the shade appearing on the fall colour card, and subdued tonos proval). In general the neutrals are stressed, especially certaina! shados, of brown as beaver, sexl, chest inut, cocon'and castorinthat go well with the furs of the winter season. Blue-wil be specially good in the navy and mid." night shades, and the blue tones-yil. effect the grays, although the tones of Tay that combine well with gray fura will be popular. In turn the gray tonee will effect-blues. The beautiful shade known 48. “Yale-blue"--since it is the Bannor: colour-of the university of that name will bo, featured as well as the softly bright shades of the color, There is a return to the myrtle, willow, malachite and bottle shades of groen with accent on myrtle, and willow. Evening colours are scheduled to inclu the peppermint and water shades of green sulphur yellow, the apricot, panch and salmon shades of pink and "to turquois, Wedgewood, forget-me-no and glaclor shades of blue. Again harmony will be sought in the ensemble costume whether it be for afternoon cal evening:

GOES

DID YOU KNOW

THAT the handbag either matches the costume or contrasis with it? A bright scarlet envelope parse la one a

the newest smartest accessories.

THAT the few neck finish in sparą. rounded, an Eton collar the favourite Anish of the latter? The Ascot tie is orn with the collarless gown, its end tucked under the neckline.

THAT for coats for fall will be either am length, atraight or with godets hree-quarters length; or reaching barely to the hips? They will be trim-

ned with a contrasting pelt:

THAT the hips of the newest. frock nodels are slim, and the backs fut? That skirts are, from nine to fourteen aches from the ground and about 3 vard and a quarter in width? TUNG THAT the three-ploce, sult-pro- phesied for fall—is not 'appearing in bath wool and silk? The couts to these. suits are hem length and the tuniq blouse completes the ensemble.

SHE GE

Sports Modes Concentrate On Simple Lines,

Rich Colours and Beautiful Fabrics- The Tunic Makes Its Appearance.

FASHION and sports have entered into un indissodoble partnership, and wherever the one is found, there, of noecarity, is found the other. And there can certainly be no objection in the partnership, for one may take it, or leave it alone, best anics her requirements, although it is diteul to imagine a wardrobe that leaves sports fashions wholly out of its well-defined scheme. If one loves colour, simplicity, benoty of fabric and pure comfort, she will get them all in the sports frock or suit, and. will find it possible to work out many interesting combinations by choosing harmonious colourings in her entire sutit of sports postumes

It happens that the desirable charac: teristics of this type of apparel have made a distinct appeal to all ages and occupations, so that one is interested in it, even though she may not actively participate in sports. And with the com- ing of the motor the general idea of a vacation has changed; so that September is quite as much a vacation goath as July and August, and nut infrequently October is the choice,, And so it in that there are new sports clothes appearing through the weeks when fashion in apparently inactive, for the woman who goes vacationing demands something new, diferent, and up-to-date. The result is satisfactory, for in these sports togs one finds embodied many ideas that will take shape in the fall and winter apparel that will soon be in the shops quite to the exclusion of summer things.

If you are looking for fashion hints

Capes play a in black, navy or tun. park, certain types of women find them far more becoming than a cout; their materials ranging from silks and crepes to twills und homespuns.

Cool Little Frocks, High-Caloured. The straight line dress of crepe de chine. sumner silk, flannel or alpaca in quite likely to have a subtle touch that raises it from the rank of the common- plney to the unusual, and this touch is more often than not, youthful one. Stripes are gayly Haunted by many of the smartest models, the candystick THE PIO stripe-in white with rose, navy, black, green, brown, powder blue, yellow or orchid--the best liked, Soft, washable broadcloth silk is a favourite material, and they wear youthful collars of lineri

SHE

AND SL.

or pique and are comfortably short-flannel, matched by a scarf of the same the one piece dress. These tunics are sleeved. Linens and volle are made into material; the coat is of blue, fanitpl; straight and unbelted, conforming to sports frocks, but they are rather dressy and the hat of felt. With this costume the straight lines that are imperative. for practical use, for they employ laces the, fashionable Deauville sandal in They are slip-ons, as a rule, and fres and hand work for trimmings.

black and white is worn. There requently feature ride trimmings. As Five typical costumes have been mains the costume worn by the specta: ] would be expected, there is an indien- chosen as illustrations of the speria ter on the beach or the country clubtion of waning popularity, so far as mode for the woman who actively part verandah, and for her the choice is the scarf is concerned, although it is cipates and the woman who watches.

varied. A straight line dress with only an indication, so far. Black and Fall days Inspire to real activity with lingerie frill a novelty wool sports white and black and scarlet-hold the their welcome tang and crispness, and wrap; and a smart hut uf. Bangkok fancy quite sa firmly as over; cretanne the hiking costume comes into use. The straw has been the costume that most is noted everywhere; and pisida are pictured modul, of gray tweed, is made | appealed for the time, and, it stresses generally featured. II sports clothes up of knickers and sleeveless jacket, the simplicity that is imperative.

are any indication-and they are the worn with tailored linen blouse, straw

The most notable tendoney in sports fall and winter models will be severely silhouette will remain the same, and the hat and high ejk-attin boots. It assures

wear is the tunle blouse, which is, to a the freedom that is imperative and presents the smartness, that the woman certain extent, rivalling and replacing simple and supremely smart. of fashion has come to expect. Linen in

The woman who rides recognizes that correct apparel is imperative, and chooses not only her habit, but it accessories with the utmost care. The pictured choice in of white linen, and the shirt that complementa it in of white broadcloth, a fabric that has come inte

BUYING AHEAD FOR

WINTER

fashions, change quite as regularly in the one as in the other, so that altera tions:are usually in order when making over is not

In the past five years It has been proven that even if the leopard cannot change his coat, many an other animal

A Simple, But Picturesque Mode. a favourite material for an outing The original purpose for which sports, costume, whether one hikes or does not, clothes were designed demands sim- and the smartest sort of outfits are to plicity, but the out-of-doors setting behind. makes colour possible, and whorever- there is a generous use of colour there in more thali likoly to be picturesque ness. This is the case with the slim Hag, frocks; the tunic blouse and skirt combinations; the Jaunty top-coats, and the many accessories that go to make - up the sports mode, While the Ameri- great popularity with the present TT in a bit malapropos-to put it

of owning it. Many of the best wearing can woman is not averse to adopting season. Tho hat is of leghorn and one mildly--to be thinking of the Aretle

far are the ones we are pleased to torm. ideas that have proven practical in other notes the smartness of the black acces- temperatures that winter brings, when

old-fashioned, because they were the lands, the feel, of course, that there is sorles-korchief, riding boots, tle and one's chief desire in life is to find a

fors that other generations wore. Mink ne rendin why the shodli pot definitely crop. One may ride in tweed; if she cooling breeze and keep within reach

is such a far, so is beayor, and skunk, decide on her own sports fashions and prefers, or she may wear breeches of of it. But it is, nevertheless, the real

renerally recognized an a'trimming fur. be a leader in this particular mode fust linen and coat of cloth, but whatever time to be thinking of furs-the coat

Caracal wears well, when compared to A her country proter Ralf the leader her choice of material she will be sure or wrap that is to be the bulwark of can-or at least can have it changed for many of the softer furs, but chinchilla in the Olympic games

that lines and workrtianship are per- one's defence against the crisp days him so completely that he would novor and sable expensive at the start, of no real wearing value, and somewhat In the late module for out-of-dooring, dependent

fection, for upon the two success is that mid-winter brings. For mid-sum-recognize it as his own. It has always

mer finds the fur modes of the coming been a task that called for care, the difficult to keep in condition are what You" will "and "no", deviation from the straight line silhouette, for were we

season, definitely settled, just as every selection of a fur-whether it be only may be called regal fure probably Sleeveless Coal.

other mode la settled if we would but a scarf or a gorgeous, wrap-but it because there have been times when 'over' 48'desért if, the Sporth be tint last to make the changed!

The knicker suit has a far more realize it, and manufacturers are busy becomes doubly e, thoughtful taak, now only royal familles possessed the where- itserious rival in the sport skirt and making up the garments that will be that hitherto unknown skins masquerade withal to purchase them. Is a toode that "domanda'slimplicity and jacket than the latter had when the fashionable later on. If one la to decide puder attractive names. For always

Ermino. Is another rykal fur preslides falls and forbelow. As the former first appeared, for so does the on her next winter's fur coat this early, there is the anestion of "Will it wear? associated with court robes and stately Burtje "heron draws to close the pendulum of faahton wing. Everyone it is necessary, of course, that the mode and, too often it will not. For the ceremonies but the past few seasons cont*fs xtre#bod, for, it is imperativo wore külekora for at least one season, be definite, but there are other reERIOAD wordan whose parso is unlimited, the have seen it in general use, on have seen that at least one, if not more, smart but many found that the fashion, wa, more directly responsible for the question of the "life" of a fur is not of what passiv for ermine. We have -"regats 151 """raps, be included - in the not becoming and gspurned to the smart; wildom ofn pre-season choles.

summer erains, and winter ermine, and vacation wardrobe, Fashion has met skirt and jacket or sweater cost "Suchi Among the many sales that lato count her pennies-or at least her ermine dyed many different colours, and the damkha'n' A most interesting way, a costume. Is pictured, worn, kere, by a summer brings, there are sales of fars; dollar The very first precaution in one must needs be sure the is getting and "medelstiseco" to biclude" every golf onthusiast who chooses flannel for fur workers are glad to be busy during making a choice of fur is the choléo ermine not one of the many substitutes fashionable fabric in the lat. Homa a fabric and likes her sleeveless jacket what might be idio months, and will do of a furrier, and when that has been these days. There is a very general spuri hep-Picking falpact, cheviot, tri- to match the sidir. Bide pleata make repairing and remodelling at, what they made, ons in wall on the way lo a solu- Impression that any soft, white, short- coletta farbel and stockinette, as well for width in the skirtand the jacket is term summer prices. The bugaboo oftion of her problem. For a reputable haired fur in ermine, but more at it is astralganda, and in general use, and worn with affored blouse of white an unsuccessful remodelling cannot surrier will gladly tell you what sort something else, and it isn't always the they, as crimiled with harmonizing that accents, the note struck by the live Flew in the light of the advance know of an intimal km krow on! And he price that proves it either. The weat summer furs-ermine squirrel risetter pearl buttons. But the skirt, could have ledge that these for workers, poses will tell you what furs are a good mng qualities of squirrel monko it more. been of Homesgun, novelty silk, crepe so, there is no reason why the wise investment that why he is repute sensible as a trimming, for than as a deaching, alpack-br-any-one of the would hey ahead of have half-ano is choosing a fur for hard wear

Every reason, apletland for opale unapa though fashionable sporta, fabrics, and the why

In extremely lovely for the latter,

and

The Skirt

facket could have been in enutrnat to making over attended to at thư thekre of cretanne, brilliantly Whin October, brings a chill, proph figured of worsted, or of novelty MIN. day, she will have the comfortable

Sporta blazers of dannel, very man, ing that all is well with her durs, and ian in their Hinds, have many dies in not be compelled to be one of the many

Interest, but the average woman must

|_the_really soft fur is not a,sloo chofeng even when It Is, seemingly, inexpensive; on the other hand, the fur that will wear" well is a good investment, oven at what seems a staggering price. For

Ithe Sports Awardrobe. For the yachts that are always having to hurry, or eucal Way one looks at 10, fur in cap

Kapety to be tauble, Harry ameona aseThe fer molt berish, Althod hentai le ta ena

pistared a the fault a much part of the nearest the order had been paid the

very essence of simplicity and yet, of woman's' wardrobes the cloth cost, inorethan likely, to get her;

is of white and both are really necessary, "And I worth cut of it, in the puro sati

specially in 3th atural shares, co

Cao that when

'sozas other colour

all wear the saft beauty,

(SHE DPLAYS. THE POLE DA LOOKET? –

ONINSYAARZ".

ATTIRE

extremely becoming fur. In its natural colour it is not beautiful, and only when it has been dyed is it acceptable, and even then it has a tendency to fade into an ugly colour. The wearing properties A of mink and beaver have been acclaimed, and there in nutris, very like beaver, but less bulky it wears well, and lay, to a certain extent, more supple, there-

Jacket Of Belge. Caracul Has A Collar And Interesting Hall Sleeves Of Dyed Squirrel..

fore more adaptable. And adaptablüty is one of the prima requisites' for the success of the furrier's art, these days, when furs are used in practically the ARme way as woven fabrics. The really |2|beautifal mole skins-dark gray, almost taupo in colour may be used exactly like cloth, and it is one of the most satisfactory pelts from the point 82- view of usableness that furriers can And. But it. la expensive-it first. quality, and, one should never buy second quality, furs or anything else 294 and it does not wear welli Like ermino, - chinchilla and sable it is a "dress" fur,

und should be considered as such.

And soft fur wears well as a trim- ming, if that trimming is not place where it will get hard wear, which Ja neema paradoxical, but lan's, Just merely 17

a way of saying that male or, erming and furs of their sort are not what dura bé callódí practical. The type of für generally used for sports, contam tuskrat ciret, leopard and so forth- fry in Lowell-wearing, fur, as it should be, and the fur that might, bo-called a balf-way type is Hudson'sent--not seul, stall, of course, but plucked, sheared,

yed maakras. It is dyed to Emitate- rascal, of which very little is worn, these days, and has, in fts turn, many

tions.. It will be readily seen that:

fars demands the help of an"?”

"Careful -consideration of Woll.